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Tasman De Havilland DH.89A Dragon Rapide build


Dom Barr

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Hi,

 

This is my Tasman Dragon Rapide in 1/72nd scale.

The plastic is original Heller, reboxed with new decals for 5 aircraft and a vac transparency. Also included is a white metal instrument panel, as well as sone copper wire (for rigging) and some free cellophane (for window tinting?). The original instructions are incorporated into a larger sheet with very detailed directions for improving this already very nice little kit. There is also an A3 sheet of close-up detail photos (not pictured).

 

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My aims for this build are:

1) To actually finish it, ideally before the GB finishes.

2) See if I can't preserve as much of that lovely raised detail as possible.

3) Rig it in a half-way decent manner.

 

Don't know which scheme to go with yet.

 

Cheers,

 

Dom Barr

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Looking forward to this one. I have one on the go as a "slow build". Which scheme are you going to go with?

 

SBS do a photoetch rigging set, I'm a long way off that but it's reputed to make life easier!

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I have one of these and a Heller original in the Hoard so it's another one I'm keen to see how it will turn out.

 

The Heller kit was originally released in 1979 under catalogue number 345.

 

Good luck with this one.

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11 hours ago, Romeo Alpha Yankee said:

So which scheme, RAAF perhaps?

As a dual Kiwi-Aussie, either of the RNZAF/RAAF schemes instantly appeal. I might see how the build goes- if things are looking smooth and nice enough for a silver dope finish, then I'll most likely go with one of those two. But if things go awry...olive drab UFAAF!

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1 hour ago, CliffB said:

I built the civvie scheme Tasman boxing a couple of years ago and can recommend this PE set, if only for the distinctive cabin window surrounds.

Enjoy your build.

I’ve been looking for this for my Drag Rap build and can’t find it in stock anywhere unfortunately!

 

Arctic Decal do a mask and window frame set.

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On 04/10/2020 at 19:34, CliffB said:

I built the civvie scheme Tasman boxing a couple of years ago and can recommend this PE set, if only for the distinctive cabin window surrounds.

Enjoy your build.

The Tasman instructions do say this of the window surrounds:

 

"One of the more distinctive features of the Rapide is the window surrounds on the fuselage. They are, in reality, quite deceptive as they are not as prominent as some photos might suggest. As can be seen in photos 1, 13, 17 and 42, the window frames are no more than a third of an inch (8mm) proud of the fuselage. In 1/72 scale this would be barely perceptible, but for those who want to add them to their model, the simplest way we have found is to lay a strip of very thin, adhesive-backed metal foil (before gluing the clear windows in place) allowing a millimetre of access".

 

Not sure what I'll do. That PE set does seem hard to come by. I do have some Bare Metal Foil tucked away somewhere, but I could be asking for trouble with this option!

 

I might have a think about this!

 

 

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8 minutes ago, Dom Barr said:

The Tasman instructions do say this of the window surrounds:

 

"One of the more distinctive features of the Rapide is the window surrounds on the fuselage. They are, in reality, quite deceptive as they are not as prominent as some photos might suggest. As can be seen in photos 1, 13, 17 and 42, the window frames are no more than a third of an inch (8mm) proud of the fuselage. In 1/72 scale this would be barely perceptible, but for those who want to add them to their model, the simplest way we have found is to lay a strip of very thin, adhesive-backed metal foil (before gluing the clear windows in place) allowing a millimetre of access".

 

Not sure what I'll do. That PE set does seem hard to come by. I do have some Bare Metal Foil tucked away somewhere, but I could be asking for trouble with this option!

 

I might have a think about this!

 

 

To honest Dom, I think it's more of in issue if you're doing a scheme where the window frames are in a contrasting colour (and hence appear more prominent).

 

Cheers

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1 hour ago, Dom Barr said:

Not sure what I'll do. That PE set does seem hard to come by. I do have some Bare Metal Foil tucked away somewhere, but I could be asking for trouble with this option!

 

I've looked everywhere for that Kuivalainen PE set without success. This is probably your best bet for the frames: https://www.arcticdecals.com/products.html?id=21459/434131

 

I know the (exceptionally well researched) instructions as I have a Tasman boxing for my Dragon Rapide build - the rare "Salvador Dali" edition. Have a look at my WIP if you want a laugh...

Edited by TonyOD
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2 hours ago, CliffB said:

To honest Dom, I think it's more of in issue if you're doing a scheme where the window frames are in a contrasting colour (and hence appear more prominent).

 

Cheers

Thanks Cliff, good point- exactly the sort of thing I hope to hear! I am leaning towards a silver dope scheme, so I think it won't stand out. I think it would be better to invest my time in getting the basics of building this old kit up well, rather than going all out on it for not much more benefit. And it will need plenty of TLC:

 

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1 hour ago, TonyOD said:

've looked everywhere for that Kuivalainen PE set without success. This is probably your best bet for the frames: https://www.arcticdecals.com/products.html?id=21459/434131

 

I know the (exceptionally well researched) instructions as I have a Tasman boxing for my Dragon Rapide build - the rare "Salvador Dali" edition. Have a look at my WIP if you want a laugh...

Tony, I will check that out, as well as your build, thanks.

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41 minutes ago, Dom Barr said:

it will need plenty of TLC:

 

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That's pretty poor. Tasman seem to specialise in misshapen kits. I got a refund from the seller (Australian eBay seller who did the right thing) but they said they had taken it up with Tasman who just said "well it was alright when it left us" and wouldn't replace the kit for them. Who knows, moulded wrong in the first place or stored in a very hot place?

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58 minutes ago, Dom Barr said:

Thanks Cliff, good point- exactly the sort of thing I hope to hear! I am leaning towards a silver dope scheme, so I think it won't stand out. I think it would be better to invest my time in getting the basics of building this old kit up well, rather than going all out on it for not much more benefit. And it will need plenty of TLC:

 

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Tony, I will check that out, as well as your build, thanks.

Blimey sorry Dom, I think you have one of my kits by mistake, I thought I had managed to corner the market on malformed and missing pieces kits. I apologise that one slipped through the net !

Please don't be put off by this set back, it's such an iconic aircraft. 

Best of luck with the build.

Cheers Pat

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 09/10/2020 at 22:51, JOCKNEY said:

Blimey sorry Dom, I think you have one of my kits by mistake, I thought I had managed to corner the market on malformed and missing pieces kits. I apologise that one slipped through the net !

Please don't be put off by this set back, it's such an iconic aircraft. 

Best of luck with the build.

Cheers Pat

Thanks Pat- I'm undeterred! I knew what I was getting in to. It's a good chance to keep those 'modelling skills' up to date.

I've been busy with work, but able to get a bit done here and there:

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Nothing too fancy- although you could pose the side windows open (I shall not be), even with a vac canopy, I wouldn't think you'd see too much. Other than some seatbelts up front, everything is as it came from Tasman. I used Gunze H312- I find it an acceptable equivalent for RAF interior green, as well as various Vallejo shades.

Tasman provide a metal instrument panel, as the Heller example is supposedly wrong. They instruct the modeller to sand it to half its thickness (it is made of zinc, so safe to do) and then install. This turned out to be quite hard work, so I made adjustments to the fuselage walls instead, and inserted it using CA glue, with a piece of sprue as a support. It looks OK:

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As you can see above, there are ejector marks I could fix, but let's be realistic- no-one will notice! And my therapist has given me strict instructions to stop investing massive amounts of energy and time into details that will never be seen!

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On 09/10/2020 at 09:11, Dom Barr said:

. In 1/72 scale this would be barely perceptible, but for those who want to add them to their model, the simplest way we have found is to lay a strip of very thin, adhesive-backed metal foil (before gluing the clear windows in place) allowing a millimetre of access".

I'm a bit of an enthusiast for the sticky back self adhesive foil tape, and I'd recommend giving the method a go. 

I've just been adding some to the side window surround on the Delahaye 135 car I'm doing. 

IMG_20201016_221350

 

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I've been known to cover entire aircraft with it. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 09/10/2020 at 20:28, TonyOD said:

I know the (exceptionally well researched) instructions as I have a Tasman boxing for my Dragon Rapide build - the rare "Salvador Dali" edition. Have a look at my WIP if you want a laugh...

Wow, Tony- I actually thought you had some kind of Salvador Dali boxing- like a special decal scheme or something. Yikes! Crack open the full strength modelling skill immediately!

 

On 19/10/2020 at 02:46, rob Lyttle said:

I'm a bit of an enthusiast for the sticky back self adhesive foil tape, and I'd recommend giving the method a go. 

I've just been adding some to the side window surround on the Delahaye 135 car I'm doing. 

I like your results Rob. I'm open to it, but it really is a little tight in that area, particularly where the top wing comes in. I feel metal foil is a very underrated product.

 

I've made a goodly amount of progress. Have got the fuselage together- it was actually quite straightforward, after all. I was worried the internal window strip might pop out  as I flexed the two halves back together, but no issues. I tacked the windows in place with super glue and then sealed the deal with Crystal Clear PVA. At this stage I'm planning on doing the Kiwi scheme, although the main roundels do look slightly out of register. I am a fan of the nose light and the RAAF version did not have it :(

 

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(Not an especially illustrative photo now I look at it!)

 

The vac canopy is next. Only one is provided, so it needs to go well.

 

Cheers,

Dom

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hi there fellow Heller-Dwellers!

 

This little guy has taken a bit of a back seat lately. With the recent easing of restrictions in Melbourne, we've been able to have club meetings again, and so I've been scrambling to get other things ready to show at these.

 

I have to say, this is a lovely wee kit, such a cute little aeroplane. Every time I pick it up I find it so easy to work on.

 

Current state of play:

 

Vac canopy went on fairly well. I needed to tack it with CA glue and used PVA for the remainder. It looked a little rough so I've had to fair it in using Tamiya putty. Lots of protective taping requited in this really restricted space.

 

I've detailed the cabin ceiling. I used the box-art to match the correct shade of Heller yellow. 

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I started out building the engines as per Tasman's suggestions to make a more accurate model. The first step was to rehasape and round off the edges of the engine intakes using putty. I spent quite a bit of time on this and ended up with little appreciable difference (they may even look worse now!). I also scratched up a pair of engine cylinders to fill the space- I had a left over Airfix Wright Cyclone (I think) which fit the bill. These were installed and look the part through the tiny openings.

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At this pint I elected not to build to Tasman's suggestions. There are many improvements which can be made, but to me, in my current situation, they smack of AMS and an unfinished model. If I build another, then maybe I'll go the whole hog, but this time- finishing will be just fine.

 

Pre-painted wheels are trapped inside the engine cowling and these are then mated to the lower wing (a single piece. Then this all goes onto the fuselage. Tail planes on and a top wing and Voila!, a Dragon Rapide sits quietly in your hands. Such a cool looking plane...

 

All of the joints needed filling. I used Tamiya white putty again, for ease of use- I was able to clean up some seam with nail polish remover, for instance, but I an aware this might 1) shrink over time and 2) provide me with a finish unsuitable for a metallic scheme.

 

 

I filled Heller's rigging holes. I imagine these would have been wonderful for younger builders! I'm going to use EZ line so they got puttied.

 

Initially, I had hoped to do an RNZAF scheme but the decision tree seems to be pruning itself quite nicely. I'm not confident I'll have a finish suitable for all over aluminium. Additionally, the Yellow in the RNZAF roundels is out of register. Same goes for the RAF version. The USAAF Olive Drab and grey version is really firming up. I've binned a few hopeless case this year and don't intend this to follow them, so I might end up playing it safe.

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Cheers,

 

Dom

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi @Dom Barr

Have you had a chance to do any more work to your lovely Dragon Rapide since we last heard from you ?

This GB have been given an additional 2 weeks so hopefully that will give you a chance to come back and finish this one.

Cheers Pat 

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Finished but not without a fight!

Sorry for going dark. I have been chipping away at this model for some time- had a lot of problems and I didn't know if I'd get it done.

It all started out really well (too well now I think of it).

 

p?i=6c2ef5faebc6f976e73937391546bfafIn approximate order, here is the list of worst self-inflicted woes:

 

1)I dropped the model breaking the whole port engine assembly off and back into its original parts. This was character building!

 

2) I got it to the stage of applying aluminium paint but it was instantly obvious I would need to change to the olive drab options. Upon re-reading, the instructions clearly stated the rearmost port window should be filled. I proceeded to fill, sand and replace lost detail on a fully assembled bi-plane. I should have said "oh well" and left it as is but I am not that smart. To illustrate this point I filled the windows on both sides!

 

3) Somewhere in there I broke and lost an inter-plane strut, found it again and reassembled it (badly).

 

4) Once fully decalled and flat-coated I removed the window masks to reveal  complete fogging of all the styrene side windows! The vac canopy was unharmed. I suspect there may have been a leak in my masking of the fuselage compartment early in the build.

 

5) Then I found colour photos of Wee Willie on the internet. It would seem much of Tasman's and my now work is incorrect! Drat!

 

There are other, smaller gripes. My rigging method- EZ line and CA glue- worked well but I wasn't able to replicate the double lines. I think that'll do for critique.

 

I'm proud to have finished it, warts and all, and thanks to it being a group build I was more committed to getting it done. I might well have abandoned it under normal circumstances. Character building!

 

It looks cool. I reckon someone like Revell should kit one of these guys in 1/48th or 32nd. They'd sell a bunch and people would actually build them.

 

Thanks to everyone who joined in the fun and supported me. I look forward to the next Group Build (ANZAC GB).

Cheers,

Dom Barr

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On 1/31/2021 at 7:47 AM, Dom Barr said:

I reckon someone like Revell should kit one of these guys in 1/48th or 32nd. They'd sell a bunch and people would actually build them.


I agree. I don’t do large scales but I’d bite their arms off with that. There’s a lovely resin kit out there but it is wife-annoyingly pricey.

 

Great result, congratulations 👏🏻

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