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Hi all,

 

I started building an MG Gundam kit recently - the Hyaku Shiki 2.0. It's the one with all the gold plated armour parts.

 

Not much to show yet - I spent a few evenings cutting out and cleaning up pieces, and this week I've painted all the frame and detail parts. It took five airbrushing sessions - partly because I only have enough clips to do a few dozen pieces at a time, and partly because it just takes *ages*.

 

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Almost everything is painted with decanted TS paints over the plastic (no primer) and there are a few bits and bobs in Alclad. Hopefully that'll give a robust base for the rest.

I haven't shaded the frame yet as I don't think it'll be that visible behind the bling bling gold, but I'll need to shade the panel lines and things at least.

Sorry there's not much to see so far, it'll be more interesting when I start putting things together.

Cheers,

Will

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I took some pictures to show what the real challenge on this one will be - the gold bits. It has really nicely plated parts, which are still in their bags:

 

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I think I want to use these as-is, they're mostly under gated so the touch-ups required will be minimal, and the gold is really nice. There are a couple of bits of dust in the surface but that's no worse than I would do if I painted them. There are also a few sink marks. 

 

The big question is about the weathering - I think some weathering is required and will hide any minor imperfections, plus the weathered gold on the box art is stunning:

 

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The question is how to turn the first into the second, bearing in mind the finish is apparently a bit fragile. I think I'll need to do some experimentation on the bits of sprue, but maybe some sponged and dry-brushed silver on the edges, then a tiny bit of dark grey in the bigger chips and *maybe* some airbrushed clear colours?

The full box cover is worth a look as it's very impressive, I love Bandai's box art!

 

50409772406_11c69961db_b.jpg

 

Will 

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I used sponged on matt varnish and GW washes on Boris to get a similar kind of weathering over shiny metal, albeit to a far stronger degree to what you'll want on this. The same method might work if it's applied more subtly.

 

30100109873_2140ae7acc_b.jpg

 

Andy:cat:

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That looks like the right kind of thing, thanks for providing some confirmatory evidence that it'll work. I like the varying matt and gloss levels. Do you thin the GW washes or use them from the pot?

I did wonder about spraying matt varnish through some kind of mask - like the stretched out baby wipes people use to do marble - but I think it would be hard to find something that'd give such interesting and localised variation as the humble sponge.

 

Cheers,

Will

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The GW washes were used neat if I remember right. I find they loose their surface tension too much when watered down and tend to pool more and leave tide marks.

The varnish I sponged on probably did need watering down slightly though, as it left some white stains on the surface.

 

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That didn't really matter on Boris as he needed to be quite grungy, but thinned, or maybe with glaze medium, it might add some patchiness without leaving the residue.

 

The mask idea should work well too. I've been using a PE one I got from China via ebay and it's good for general stains and discolouration but, like you say, you still need to go back to the sponge to get that fine, in-scale look.

 

Wingnut+Wings+Sopwith+Pup+Gnome+Build+%2

 

Andy:cat:

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Ha, I bought one too. It was from a Chinese company with a German-sounding name but I forget what the actual name was.

I need to do some decaling on the frame parts and I've been putting that off a bit as I find it stressful. Will see if I can make a start tonight. 

There are some dry transfers in the kit so that might be a good place to start as they're nice to apply :)

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Not the most exciting progress, but I picked some pieces to decal and have given them a dubious coat of Tamiya gloss lacquer.

 

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It's quite nice seeing all the bits on stalks like that.

 

W

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You'll be pleased to get more sticky pictures then :)

 

I've applied about 80 decals so far on the frame pieces and weapons, and that's only putting them where they won't get covered up by armour later.

 

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The orange and white stencils are from an (excellent) HiQ Parts sheet, and the rest are a mix of Gundam decals and aircraft spares. More to come.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Thanks! Still too chicken to try that but it's getting to the point where I'm going to have to at least test something.

 

I finally have some frame parts assembled!

 

50509288142_f58019a03b_b.jpg

 

Not a great pic but you get the idea.

 

I gave the ash grey parts a couple of coats of Dullcote with a tiny dot of Tamiya Clear Green in it to tint them. Hopefully just shy of being minty! Before that I used an enamel wash to pick out the detail, and sponged the surface with Deepkin Flesh/drybrushed with white ink to provide a base texture for weathering later. So far no problems with the enamel so I think my theory about it being fine so long as you do it prior to assembly is good.

 

The energy pipes are painted Tamiya Italian Red and I filled in the black bits with a couple of coats of Black Templar. I haven't sealed those to preserve the gloss finish as I think it's a nice contrast.

 

I've done another set of parts since and I now have hips and a torso, but with no gold bits or armour added. There's still at least one more batch of the ash green pieces to go, mainly from the legs and arms. 

 

I think I may have to buff the visible frame parts with a cloth as the varnish is a little bit dusty, but it doesn't really show in photos - it's more of a feel thing.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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This is a bit more convincing and a better reflection of the colour:

50510222348_70152e8c88_b.jpg

 

The (dusty!) bits of dark green armour are just resting there to see what they look like, I need to scuff them a bit.

I'm quite pleased at how the separately-tinted pieces create a slightly patchwork appearance. 

Will

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The parts are looking great with the decals on - all the stencelling and logos always make these Gundam kits come to life.

 

Are the pale ash grey parts painted in IJN Grey Green, as they look very similar to tha colour? I wasn't sure if Tamiya did that colour in a TS spray though.

 

Andy:cat:

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On 10/21/2020 at 9:45 PM, Andy Moore said:

Are the pale ash grey parts painted in IJN Grey Green, as they look very similar to tha colour? I wasn't sure if Tamiya did that colour in a TS spray though.

 

Yes, it's my favourite paint colour! It's in the aircraft colours paint range (AS-29) so an eggshell finish. Perfect, basically - it even covers pretty well.

 

NB: I've tinted the parts with a post-shade to be more green-gray than the green-brown-gray the paint is, but you can see the original colour on some of the earlier parts.

Orienteering Nationals is done now, so hopefully a bit more free time in the run-up to Christmas. I'd like to get this done in a couple of weeks as we've got our club competition in mid-November.

 

Will

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After the madness of Nationals, I've managed to get a bit of modelling done this week. Mostly aging and varnishing the remaining frame parts, of which there were a lot!

 

I didn't take as much care with the chipping and washes as I did with the decalled parts since most of what's left is a bit less visible, so don't look too closely...

 

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I should do some detail painting on the joints, all the metal bits are just in a single colour at the moment which is a bit lazy.

 

In other news, I found the missing thruster which I'd destroyed the hoover bag in search of and been all over the house. Only after giving up and forgetting about it did I find it tucked into a void in the backpack frame! So I need to strip that and paint it the right metallic colour.

Gold next, there's no way to put it off any further. Eep.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Aaaaah, that's better. Took the plunge.

 

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I reckon that works quite well? Lots of the original gold showing through, but enough detail and interest to help hide the gate marks, sink marks etc.

I started by touching up the gate marks with Vallejo Liquid Gold Rich Gold, which is a bit too dark but good enough given that it's mostly round the back of the parts. I also filled in any panel lines or holes with Shyish Purple, which is very dark but not black. The shading is sponged and blotted Druchii Violet, and the chipping is sponged Leadbelcher followed by a drybrush of Mithril Silver to pick up the edges.

 

Overall not too difficult. I may add some more things later on when I do some "functional" weathering as opposed to just applying the same technique to all the pieces.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Did some more last night, which wasn't a great idea as I was working in artificial light and didn't stop soon enough. The chest pieces are fine...

 

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but the rear skirt is a bit over-done:

 

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I've gently edited some of it with the end of a skewer dipped in water, but might come back and remove some more on that lower edge.

I weathered the side skirts in daylight and made them slightly heavier at the back, lighter at the front as a bridge between the two pieces.

 

Will

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Cheers, making good progress now as the legs have had the thrusters fitted and all the armour.

 

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Lots of fiddly bits in the arms next, but the inner arm frames are done. I need to paint some details on the shoulders as well so the recessed thrusters (I assume) match the ones I've painted on the legs.

 

Will

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