Graham Boak Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 Scottish were always a big sub-contractor to the programme, making the wings (and the tails?). So they had a serious wish to see the programme continue. Initially some work continued thanks to Bill Bright(?) who had been responsible to ferrying the aircraft to the States and was a strong believer in its prospects. Unlike HP, Scottish were supported by the UK government so once the RAF showed a serious interest in the type there was money available to establish the full build/assembly line in Scotland. Scottish actually owned the rights by then, so not really a licence build, no. I must admit losing track of what was going on after that, having moved to Hawker and then to BAC, so having other more immediate types to keep track of. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 2 hours ago, Jeff Thomsen said: I'll probably use the Airfix kit again since I like the fuselage shapes slightly better If you say the shape is good, Jeff, that's good enough for me!! 👍 Very envious of your time in the air. It can't have been noisier than the piston engined twins, can it? I have a long running project going with Lockheed Twins, currently the Lodestar. That lot must have been noisy in comparison. It was only as I started thinking about the engine mods that I thought about doing a WIP, so I haven't got step by step pictures of the fuselage progress. But you can see from the instructions detail here the problem with the double door side entrance. Sticking the door panel in place fills the space, but the window is way out of place The normal 3-1-3 Spacing is what's required, to match the starboard side, and that puts the new opening right on the joint. I got there in the end.... There's a lot of extra moulded details on the inside to deal with but eventually I got the kit window to go in. Couple of little triangular fillets in the corners, and rounded. All done before the join up. The seat inside the door was fitted, and the other 2 seats fixed together with a bit of floor and the half bulkhead in the starboard half so that it meshed with the details of the closed door and seat. I really like the white look, and what I'm doing is thinned coats of matt white brushed on and rubbed back, taking most of the raised panel lines off bit by bit. I did this first on the sides of the fuselage and a gloss coat of white while still in 2 halves, and THEN fitted the windows. This is to avoid the masking process which I'm not very good at! Here's a quick look at the engine makeover, I'll talk my way through it next time. Existing nacelle to the left, my version to the right. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theplasticsurgeon Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 20 hours ago, Graeme H said: The later BAE and Scottish Aviation versions usually had 4 bladed props, I have always though you could make the Garrett engine from what Airfix supplied and a whole heap of filler. That is exactly what I did, with this Jetstream T3 in 2007, and avoiding those 4 blade props. The only aftermarket being the decals. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 20 minutes ago, theplasticsurgeon said: That is exactly what I did, with this Jetstream T3 in 2007, That has worked a treat! Looks great and the prop discs look good. I've tried the same a couple of times and was pleased with the results. I saw a few examples of those etched "blurred" prop discs and didn't like the look at all. You kept the height of the prop shafts up and built the intakes on top with the filler, I'd say. Tidy looking aircraft, isn't it? 😍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 Another complex job that seems just to attach to you as if by modeling magnetism 😁 🧲 What is the civil registration that you have chosen for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Headroom Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 This is all good modelling stuff. Putty and filing, none of this ‘it just falls together’ stuff. I’ve never built this model so don’t know the practicalities of construction, but you mentioned that the line of the door goes through the ‘normal’ position for the rear window. Would it be possible to make a cut out from the fuselage and fit the door with the porthole in the new forward position and then fettle the area to the rear? Trevor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEXANTOMCAT Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 Hi all I had a quick squizz in the stash since there are no photos online it seems of what you get in the Air Graphics Jetstream engine set I thought I'd show you! I've put them next door to the sprues you get in the Amodel Jetstream T1 kit. As you can see with Amodel they expect you to build up the nacelle using two halves, the front part of the nacelle using two halves, the circular* prop shaft extension using two halves and then the rear exhaust, again using two halves plus the circular intake lip/brace - Having built one its doable but a bit of a PITA. AG have cleverly done away with the problem as you can see by giving you a one part nacelle/prop shaft with the *subtle bulge on the prop shaft extension which is present on the full size but absent in the kit. Also you get the exhaust tube in one piece with some nice internal detail, As a bonus they give you the two resin underside scoops which Amodel again - you guess it - give you in two halves! jetstream 2 by Ben Brown, on Flickr jetstream, 1 by Ben Brown, on Flickr Now I havent used this set yet but it looks like a breeze compared to assembling 8+ pieces and needing them to align perfectly and avoid marring the detail when you fill the gaps! Hope that helps! ATB TT 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 1, 2020 Author Share Posted October 1, 2020 2 hours ago, TEXANTOMCAT said: what you get in the Air Graphics Jetstream engine set I thought I'd show you! This looks like a good solution for the engines. Nice! Amodel gives a plain wing and then the nacelle of whatever type is built on. Airfix made the nacelle bulge on the wing top moulding which adds another complication to the scene. 3 hours ago, Max Headroom said: and fit the door with the porthole in the new forward position and then fettle the area to the rear? That could work with adjustment for the space between windows 6 and 7, I guess. 6 hours ago, Moa said: modeling magnetism 😁 🧲 What is the civil registration that you have chosen for it? 😎Haven't got that far, Moa. I don't have any civil options at hand, and I'm just building "the type" at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Boak Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 The Air Graphics set certainly looks like a good solution to the engine, but you are still left with the fuselage windows/door and the undercarriage well/door rework. Plus more minor work such as the ventral fin reshaping and antennae fit. If, like me, you have a stock of old Airfix Jetstreams then fair enough, but starting from new there's much less work in the A Model kit. PS I see this conversion is actually designed for the A Model kit. So there may be other problems of fit - has anyone actually tried it? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 1, 2020 Author Share Posted October 1, 2020 2 hours ago, Graham Boak said: I see this conversion is actually designed for the A Model kit. So there may be other problems of fit - Looks like Amodel supply a flat wing for the nacelles to be attached, of whichever type. Airfix has the nacelle bulges moulded with the wing panels, so it's going to get messy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 1, 2020 Author Share Posted October 1, 2020 Here's what I've been doing with the nacelle parts. With the 2 sides glued together and well set, the propshaft hole needs drilling out on the front piece, and the same done to the front of the sides assembly. Featured here is a piece of 5mm round sprue and the holes are taken out to 5mm. Hold on, before that I cut the intake off the front piece, this feature.... It leaves a hole but never mind. 🤠 Front piece I reckoned needs a little shortening, maybe 1mm. The whole thing goes together like this, I'm in the habit of using brass or Ali tube pieces to mount propellers, with a bearing tube in the engine and the prop on a smaller diameter tube or rod that's a sliding fit. So I'm drilling out the 5mm rod all the way through - nice and straight! - and a piece of brass tube goes right through to the u/c bay. I found the prop was still too far forward in relation to the fuselage and concluded that a couple of mm needed to come off the back of the assembly. That just leaves this to be shaped in front of the remaining intake. And the hole can be covered in with thin poly sheet. That's the basic structure done, and a few details to sort. The spinners are mounted on the smaller brass rod and once they are shaped a bit (by turning in a cordless drill) and slid in, it should start to make sense. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheyJammedKenny! Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 I like your problem-solving. What do you think about the leading edge sweep on the Airfix kit's vertical stabilizer? Does that need to be adjusted slightly? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 2, 2020 Author Share Posted October 2, 2020 20 hours ago, TheyJammedKenny! said: the leading edge sweep on the Airfix kit's vertical stabilizer? Does that need to be adjusted slightly? Hmmm, what is it you're seeing there? Better definition of the fillet, and thinner? I can see a small adjustment to the ventral fin piece to get it straight with the rudder. Well, whatever it is, I'm probably a bit too far along now to get into reshaping..... What am I missing 🤔? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 2, 2020 Author Share Posted October 2, 2020 Here's the spinner shape as supplied in the kit.... So that can go in the chuck of the cordless drill and be turned. I'm after something more like this.... Blunted and rounded, curving to come straight with the gearbox. The prop slides on the shaft and into position and it's ready for a test fit. It's a start... ‼️😀 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheyJammedKenny! Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 Looks great! I don't think you're missing anything on the vertical stabilizer, aside from maybe what you suggested. I had the impression, perhaps mistaken, that the Airfix kit's was a little too swept, but that appears not the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 3, 2020 Author Share Posted October 3, 2020 20 hours ago, TheyJammedKenny! said: I don't think you're missing anything on the vertical stabilizer, Quite hard to get a decent view of the tail and fillet. I was having a look through the walkaround pictures, and zoom on the tail fin fillet looks fairly slim and straight sided.... . Whereas the Airfix shape is maybe a bit wider as it comes down to the fuselage. And the roundness along the top edge is a bit more spread out to make the width. Well, I'm not going back there now! I'm happy the way it is. 😎 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 8, 2020 Author Share Posted October 8, 2020 The dear old Jetstream is not forgotten, but with the start of the Heller Group Build under way it's having to compete for my limited bench time. Some extra work on the main gears which require a little bottom block below to scissor action and some brake lines. It looks like there are 3 hoses to each brake and I'm doing them together with soldering wire squeezed with pliers to give a flat strip of bendy metal. And then I hit a snag.... of my own making. Because another job I'd done was sorting the exhaust outlets. The rear openings were filed out to thin the clumsy looking plastic and the heat guards were fitted. Great..... Except in filing away at the outlets with round and half-round files I also removed the gear leg mountings in the wells. 🙊 Pretty thorough job on them, too! Visible there is a piece of half-round sprue with a hole in it. The hole will accommodate the top of the leg and the shape should glue into the top of the nacelle to replace the wrecked mounting.. Also on show there are the little pylons for the flaps. What a pain they were. And how useless the instructions were for orientation or anything else! Airfix have tried to cram all of the final fittings into one badly drawn upside down drawing. That's undercarriage, nacelles and engines, windscreen, antennas, pylons, door and stairs, the LOT!! Have a look at this.... 😲😳☹️ 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 9, 2020 Author Share Posted October 9, 2020 The make do solution seems to have worked. I got the assembly done last night and left her upside down to set thoroughly. I was a bit worried about the stance of the plane after all that, but I think it's OK. The tail sits nice and high which seems to be the typical look of the Jetstream. Perhaps just a little bit of flatting on the bottom of the tyres to settle her on the ground. And a quick look at the front wheels and tyres. 😎 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 I'm seeing a way to use your fixes on mine, even though I have an Amodels Royal Navy one, I'll be able to use that as a pattern for my mods. I'm enjoying this. Steve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Great work Rob. Can I just ask what might be considered a stupid question at risk of getting laughed at. When you put the spinners onto a bit to turn them down, how did you mount it securely to this was it filled, drilled and one of the screw thread bits used? Thanks Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 9, 2020 Author Share Posted October 9, 2020 On 09/10/2020 at 18:30, stevehnz said: I have an Amodels Royal Navy one, Nice one, Steve. Should look good. From what I can see, Amodel supply a plain wing and then the various nacelles and engine parts to be fitted as required. So you should be spared some of the mods. On 09/10/2020 at 18:33, bigbadbadge said: When you put the spinners onto a bit to turn them down, how did you mount it securely to this HA HA..... 😀Just kidding, Chris! I use c a superglue to attach the brass or Ali tube or rod to the plastic. Sometimes the inside of the spinner needs a bit of something to facilitate a snug, straight fit. These ones were just right for the brass rod, but sometimes you got to be a little bit creative. What you don't want is it stuck crooked on the shaft, or off centre. I even turned a couple of engine cowlings like this. With a tube shaft glued in the radial engine and the "wrong" cowlings poly-glued around the engine, I stuck the whole thing in the drill and turned it like a lathe, to make the new shape. So the c a joints haven't given me any trouble........ so far 😎 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 9 minutes ago, rob Lyttle said: Nice one, Steve. Should look good. From what I can see, Amodel supply a plain wing and then the various nacelles and engine parts to be fitted as required. So you should be spared some of the mods. HA HA..... 😀Just kidding, Chris! I use c a superglue to attach the brass or Ali tube or rod to the plastic. Sometimes the inside of the spinner needs a bit of something to facilitate a snug, straight fit. These ones were just right for the brass rod, but sometimes you got to be a little bit creative. What you don't want is it stuck crooked on the shaft, or off centre. I even turned a couple of engine cowlings like this. With a tube shaft glued in the radial engine and the "wrong" cowlings poly-glued around the engine, I stuck the whole thing in the drill and turned it like a lathe, to make the new shape. So the c a joints haven't given me any trouble........ so far 😎 Thanks Rob, I should have remembered the brass rod and tubes thanks fella. Great work. Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 12, 2020 Author Share Posted October 12, 2020 Still picking away at the to-do list for the Jetstream. The main item was mask and paint the de-icing strips on all leading edges. I had some success previously with spray-painted decal sheet cut in strips for doing these, but it didn't work this time. Perhaps the leading edges are too sharp or something, but I went back to basics and masked and brushed. Couple of antennas, and I used the underside one on top to make 2. I ought to say that the front gear door has been replaced. It was way too thick. I used a piece of one of the stretchers supplied, removed the side bars, and it's just the job. Couple of wingtip lights dotted with c a. and the beginnings of windscreen wipers installed. I'm not happy with the main gear doors placement compared to what I'm seeing in the pictures. The top attachment points are much too far away from the legs. But we're getting there 👍 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 Looks great Rob so far, I think I recall seeing something about the undercarriage bays being wrong but cannot for the life of me recall what it said. Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Boak Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 Two errors. The main leg doors are too long - cut off a little at the top and glue it into the wing, fill etc. Thin down the door. The inner doors were only on the Mk.3M. For other Jetstreams glue them in place, then make round hole to take the wheel. There should a a rim part war round outboard, matching the kink on the leg door and running out into the slightly deeper fuselage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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