Jump to content

Recommended Posts

As I have worked my way through Cold War 1/48 military model aircraft kits it has become apparent to me that a chunk of aircraft modelled in 1/72 just don’t have a kit in 1/48.  I think the size puts manufacturers off, and there probably isn’t the demand to make tooling up worth it.  So as a result the non front line aircraft tend to get patchy or no representation.  Think about it - no Dominie, no Jetstream, no Varsity or Valletta, no light transport - F-27, C-160.  Occasionally kits appear - I believe there was once a DHC Buffalo, although I have never seen one, a you can buy a 3D printed Andover, and there was a Sea Prince kit that I am still thinking about.  A while back an Islander would have been on my wish list until out of the blue one appeared from Valom.  I haven’t ever tried a Valom kit before but I had to get one.  I did fancy waiting for the Red Devil’s team Islander, and that may come at some point.  But being limited run kits I grabbed the RAF (ex-Army Air Corp) Islander when it hit the shelves.  And after finishing my last build I eagerly got it from the stash.

 

EP1FjZW.jpg
 

So what do you get?  From the look of it the parts to make just about every version ever made!  And etch too.  And lots of nice recessed detail, crisply moulded.  I was expecting the lack of locating pins but that’s fine.  Can glue in my own tabs.

 

Y2n3cn2.jpg
 

Now when I say lots of different model parts, you may be able to spot 6 engine casings.  The grey ones are for the turbine version.  Both two bladed and three bladed props - 3 bladed for thiS kit

 

PEzKCJO.jpg
 

So a nice set of parts & plenty to do.  Wouldn’t want to make this any more difficult would I?  I mean, you could fit motor inside those engine casings, couldn’t you?

 

gOXHo27.jpg
 

And look at the space inside the wing - you could fit wires & leds through there.  Working wing lights & a cabin light?  Could be doable 

 

W6Rlihe.jpg

 

Well I have some leds so we can see.  Only have my spare motor from the Herc build left, so would need to get at least one more and work out how to fit it.  But let’s see how this goes before I get carried away.

 

  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s a good kit for limited run, took me a while to figure out the parts for the engines and aerial fit. Nose weight is a big issue, I crammed in loads to the nose, under the floor, the nacelles and still needed a tail prop! Upper wing fit needs a bit of fettling as well to avoid steps but that’s perhaps me and my shoddy work!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good one, barside! 

I didn't even know there was a turbine version of the Islander! 

If you fit those, does that mean a military decor? Or are there civil options? 

Best of luck with this, and the mods 👍

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers @Plasticbasher I guessed the nose weight would be an issue.  Lots of nice detailed etch fighting for space with a load of lead weight.  I did wonder about lead roofing sheet along under the front floor as well as lead in the nose.  Bit worried that nose wheel doesn’t look up to too much weight.  A rear prop may be needed.  Or maybe some attached steps to the rear door?

 

Cheers @rob Lyttle there are a number of different versions out there - BA, coastguard, Israeli, Spanish.  I was tempted to an earlier version for the Red Devil’s but the RAF/AAC version came along.  That version uses the turboprop engines while the others don’t.  Spare engine casings for a scratch build at some point I guess

Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, rob Lyttle said:

Remember, you're trying to get any weight at all on the nose. 

It's the main gears that'll be taking the strain! 


While that is true for the finished model sitting nicely, I will no doubt plonk it down heavily and the extra lead will crush the front wheels!  Mind you the main wheels don’t look to strong either.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I started on the instrument panel today.  Etch over dial inlay and the plastic frame.  And tech on the column

 

kiqky7K.jpg
 

And after paint & a little pencil over the etch

 

cAC6Erx.jpg

 

Considering it’s real size the detail is truly tiny.  Now you can see the white slide control slots?  On the etch panel below the left side of the panel are the 4 levers to put in to those slots.  I can barely see them let alone cut them out, paint them & accurately glue them in to the 4 slots.  Not sure I will try.  Still have to fit the yokes which attach to the front of the panel.

 

Bit more of a close up on the wing & body detail.  All very good.  You do have to cut the recesses in to the wing front for your chosen engine casings though.

 

xWMbs9Y.jpg

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

Bit of work on the inside.  Seats painted - silver grey for the pilots & blue grey for the bench seats.  Think they are a little more blue bit that’s fine.  Just loose in at the moment as they still have etch seat belts to go on

 

xd85oTL.jpg

 

The foot pedals are supposed to have etch fitted but who will ever see them?  The yokes are on two - two piece assembly!

 

pcJ65Xt.jpg
 

I have ordered some motors so I will see how they might fit when they get here. Most of the electrics will be in the wing & running down to the back end where I hope to find a suitable connection point.  Any idea where the ground power goes in to an Islander?

 

 

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, bar side said:

Any idea where the ground power goes in to an Islander?

 

 

On the BN 2T on display at Middle Wallop it’s mid way between the nosewheel and windshield on the nose portside.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
49 minutes ago, Aeronut said:

On the BN 2T on display at Middle Wallop it’s mid way between the nosewheel and windshield on the nose portside.

Thanks - typical though, i could have used one towards the back to disguise a prop & avoid too much nose weight.  Must have a look at their website for pics.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Seat belts attached.  I couldn’t bring myself to try and paint them before attaching them.  I would have lost some for sure!  So will paint them in daylight.  Tabs also attached to the body & a quick coat of grey

 

uQLCRzh.jpg
 

Test fitting the interior

 

WBm7HJ6.jpg

 

And the view through the roof

 

Auhv86e.jpg

 

But let’s face it you won’t be able to see much when the wing is on.  Not feeling too bad about not fitting the foot pedal etch now

 

eNnWbdo.jpg
 

My plan is to fit an led at either end of the wings & let the light shine through the red & green tip lights and the clear lenses slightly inboard of the tips.  Another bulb under the wing & above the interior will provide light in the cabin.  Then just the two motors.  If I work it right I should be able to turn on the props and lights separately with just three telephone wire chords running out of the gpu socket

 

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just given the seats a paint & a quick was over along with the inside of the cabin.  

On 10/4/2020 at 3:39 PM, Aeronut said:

On the BN 2T on display at Middle Wallop it’s mid way between the nosewheel and windshield on the nose portside.

Just looking at the body & I guess this is the post for the gpu plug in.  
 

2pmuxsW.jpg

 

Cant fault the kit detailing.  Just wondering if trying to poke three wires out of there would look wrong.  I am sure I could run them out of the back under the tail instead.  Going to need to get the engines & wings together to get the cabling in and I would rather avoid cable joins inside the body.  They almost inevitably break or short!  I would also like to paint the wings & body separately & then tidy up the join.  So many issues that change your plan & order of build when you add in electrics

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a cunning thought.  How about running the power out of a lead from the back of one engine, tucked behind one main undercarriage leg?  Could save running leads through the cabin & all lights & motors would be contained in the wing.  The body could be assembled and painted separate from the wing.  Could work

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, bar side said:

Just given the seats a paint & a quick was over along with the inside of the cabin.  

Just looking at the body & I guess this is the post for the gpu plug in.  
 

2pmuxsW.jpg

 

Cant fault the kit detailing.  Just wondering if trying to poke three wires out of there would look wrong.  I am sure I could run them out of the back under the tail instead.  Going to need to get the engines & wings together to get the cabling in and I would rather avoid cable joins inside the body.  They almost inevitably break or short!  I would also like to paint the wings & body separately & then tidy up the join.  So many issues that change your plan & order of build when you add in electrics

It’s the other side under a rectangular hatch. Port = left. Starboard = right.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

So this side is the right side - the left side!  The gpu socket location is here

 

ERNJrJP.jpg

 

I am still thinking of the back of the starboard engine as my outgoing wire location

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Bit of a delay waiting for some motors, but they have now arrived.

 

kOMP16H.jpg

 

Have a choice of two - the top one is cylindrical, the other is more cuboid.  I think it’s going to be easier to fix the cuboid one & stop is slipping around.  And the drive shaft is long enough to come through the front of the nacelle.  So now need to cut the wing front to take the nacelle and run the light & motor wiring through it.  Not going to rush it though.

 

I also got delayed finishing off an old Luft 46 build that has been lurking half finished in the garage for about 5 years.

 

TtpD58n.jpg
 

Nice to get that one finished off at last

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Been rather sidetracked by decorating & things, so little progress.  But I did put together one engine nacelle.  And with some blu tac holding the motor in place it would look something like this

 

MneUmpC.jpg

 

Got to cut a section to fit the radiator above the wing.  Then. I need to drill a hole into the centre of the prop back & spinner.  Getting it dead centre is going to be fun

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Cut the wing leading edges to fit the over wing scoops

 

FDjpRHQ.jpg

 

Scoops are on and nacelles are both roughly together.  Holes drilled in the lower wing halves to take the power leads for the motors.

 

2uW4B1K.jpg
 

And in place on the lower wing

 

1gHMnJl.jpg

 

Now to figure out how to attach the props to the motors.  Motors are just blutaced in place at the moment but thinking of some balsa wood glued in and a pin behind to ensure the motor doesn’t slip backwards.  Now, how to get a small central hole so that the prop doesn’t spin off centre.  This is what I have


A5nESBP.jpg

 

I have put the back plate in backwards so that the location rod doesn’t stick out.  However I am not convinced that the back plate will be any use.  I am thinking of putting a metal rod loosely in place & packing the back of the spinner with P38 filler.  Then remove the rod to leave space for the motor shaft.  Drill three holes in the sides and the three prop blades will then locate ok.  Any better ideas?  I don’t have a tower drill to get a really perpendicular hole.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Finally glued in the motor tonight.  Superglued it in place and managed to not get it on the motor shaft.  Will brace it so it doesn’t come loose when the nacelle is glued on.  Fitted the spinner on and blutaced in the blades.  Did test run the motor but the blades flew off across the room!

 

qJycbnv.jpg
 

Just going to have to check everything as those props get close the the cabin sides

 

cnwJk6U.jpg

 

I glued in the side windows too so the body can get sealed up soon.  All of the electrics will be contained in the wing, so apart from adding nose weight the body can go together soon

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...