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Vickers Valetta 1/72 build


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On 12/3/2020 at 12:16 PM, TheyJammedKenny! said:

@Jfgred1: Thanks for the compliments!  I'm doing multiples, because two other projects are now stalled, awaiting delivery of a specific metalizer, which seems in short supply this side of the Atlantic.  

 

Just re-scribed most of the panel lines I'd removed earlier.  Now I need to carefully emulate the access hatch outlines, which are curved at the corners.  I have photo-etch metal templates I purchased from Verlinden years ago, but have always found them a little difficult to work with.  What's the easiest way to re-scribe these hatch outlines?  Cut out the individual template shape and tape to the model?

Personally, I annealed the templates I have, so these are easier to bend and adapt to the fuselage curves. The other key point is to try to "fix" the template as good as possible to the model with several tapes all around.

 

Now, one thing that makes the second point easier is to have smaller templates. The problem that I have sometimes with the long ones like Verlinden/Hasegawa/Gunze, is that their size makes it difficult to "attach" properly to the model. I use a lot the ones from Eduard, that been smaller, makes it easier to tape to the model.

 

One trick is to try to cut the pattern of the hatch in dymo tape. The issue is that to cut curved edges is a PITA so I only use this technique when I am dealing with very large hatches or square end edges. 

 

Last but not least, and I am sure you know this but just in case, I start with a very light pass. Two or three of these. Really light. And found out that these passes leave deep enough indentation that then I can follow without the template. I found a scriber  trytool from Hasegawa (TT-1). The tip is finer than a needle and really hard, and it cuts into plastic like if it was a hot knife. really good for the scribing of complex shapes. One of the best investments I have done in tools for this type of job. Give it a go if you can. 

 

Stay safe and have a good one.

 

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16 minutes ago, Jfgred1 said:

Personally, I annealed the templates I have, so these are easier to bend and adapt to the fuselage curves. The other key point is to try to "fix" the template as good as possible to the model with several tapes all around.

 

Now, one thing that makes the second point easier is to have smaller templates. The problem that I have sometimes with the long ones like Verlinden/Hasegawa/Gunze, is that their size makes it difficult to "attach" properly to the model. I use a lot the ones from Eduard, that been smaller, makes it easier to tape to the model.

 

One trick is to try to cut the pattern of the hatch in dymo tape. The issue is that to cut curved edges is a PITA so I only use this technique when I am dealing with very large hatches or square end edges. 

 

Last but not least, and I am sure you know this but just in case, I start with a very light pass. Two or three of these. Really light. And found out that these passes leave deep enough indentation that then I can follow without the template. I found a scriber  trytool from Hasegawa (TT-1). The tip is finer than a needle and really hard, and it cuts into plastic like if it was a hot knife. really good for the scribing of complex shapes. One of the best investments I have done in tools for this type of job. Give it a go if you can. 

 

Stay safe and have a good one.

 

Wow this is so complicated for me. I just stick & paint things & consume an occasional glass of cider.  It is so uncomplicated. :yahoo: Just of to have a sleep.

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6 minutes ago, Romeo Alpha Yankee said:

Just did a binge catch up on this one Alex, You are doing a great job on the detail and beating it into shape!

 

Very nice work.

Yes you are correct Romeo Alex is not to bad at this sort of thing :yahoo:

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15 hours ago, Jfgred1 said:

 

One trick is to try to cut the pattern of the hatch in dymo tape. The issue is that to cut curved edges is a PITA so I only use this technique when I am dealing with very large hatches or square end edges. 

Thanks so much for the advice!  I may end up cutting some of the individual templates from the Verlinden template and re-accomplish some of the scribing on the large fuselage access hatches.  BTW, I used the often-maligned Tamiya scribing tool to create some good, consistent line-work.  As you may recall from IPMS judging criteria, lines should never mysteriously "disappear" on a model.

 

13 hours ago, Romeo Alpha Yankee said:

beating it into shape!

Thanks, RAY!  I've attached the cockpit "glass" and the extra bit of sheet styrene that serves both to help anchor the transparency, and to help round off the upper fuselage shape.  

 

@LaurieS: I think you'll enjoy the Viking.  There are a number of external features on the Valetta kit, such as fuselage intakes near the flight deck, that belong to the Viking and which I've sanded off--as they were not on the Valetta.  On the other hand, the kind of work I'm doing to round off the fuselage top and change the contours of the eyebrow windows applies ONLY to the Valetta.  The Valom kit's forward fuselage, just aft of the cockpit, is accurate for a Viking, less accurate for a Valetta.  Point being that the Valetta's is a surprisingly complex shape for such an unglamorous machine.  

 

Of course, every modeler makes his own/her own decision regarding "accuracy," so it can be built from the box and still look like a Valetta.  Here in the States, who's gonna know?

 

What bears repeating in my mind is that this is NOT a jet.  The cockpit transparency frames do not need to be completely smooth as they join with the rest of the airframe.

 

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5 hours ago, TheyJammedKenny! said:

 There are a number of external features on the Valetta kit, such as fuselage intakes near the flight deck, that belong to the Viking and which I've sanded off--as they were not on the Valetta. 

They were seen on some Valettas though, off the top of my head C.2s.  One thing I'm rapidly learning is that when it comes to small details Valettas seem to vary, a lot.

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@71chally: You, sir, are correct, about the intakes on the C.2.  As mine is the more spartan C.1, I've removed all of that detail.  

 

Here's what I did to modify the fuselage "crown" as it meets the transparency.  First, I cemented a short length of sheet styrene, cut to the width of the "metal" between the eyebrow windows, that extended about 5mm over the clear part.  The other end I cut a hole to match the dimensions of the navigator's astrodome.  I then added a second length of sheet styrene, 5mm narrower than the first, to create some more height.  I built up the area fore and aft using successive layers of Mr. Surfacer, applied with a toothpick, and allowed each coat to dry 24 hours.

 

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You can see repairs I had to make to the nose after drop-testing the model, but fortunately before cementing on the clear parts!

 

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Here are the results, which I think are satisfactory.  I did a lot of sanding, starting with the coarsest grade (400 grit) across the top of the fuselage to create a curvature. I sanded the eyebrow windows' sides (just above the bulged side windows), to re-shape them to better match the contours I was trying to re-create.  I then used progressively finer paper, including Micromesh, and followed up with liquid polish to restore the windows' transparency.  You can barely see it in the photo below, but my re-scribed panel line clearly shows the curvature as it meets the astrodome.  In the head-on shot, you can more clearly make out the curvature of the fuselage crown.  There's another re-drawn panel line just aft of where the transparency meets the upper fuselage, and it too shows curvature.  I'm pretty satisfied with it, because the results are more consistent with the lines of the real aircraft (in my opinion).  

 

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Dedication to duty brilliant work Alex.

 

Please to see that others have the courageous to drop test their models.

 

If you have not tried it is an experience not to be forgotten.

 

Laurie

Edited by LaurieS
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1 minute ago, Romeo Alpha Yankee said:

Nicely done with the reshaping Alex, it is rather annoying that the Mr Surfacer shrinks so much when drying.

 

He final result looks like it was worth the effort :thumbsup:

Wow never had Mr Surfacer ever shrink. What it does, if you apply it on a hole gap or join line, is sit on top then falls into the gap obviously before it cures. But not shrink.

 

Then reapply, as it is only for filling small gaps, if it has fallen below the top of the  area to be filled.

 

Laurie

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On 12/6/2020 at 10:36 PM, Romeo Alpha Yankee said:

Very nice work

Thanks, Ray!  Much appreciated.  It's going slowly, but next step is final assembly of the airframe--wings and tail.

On 12/13/2020 at 6:03 PM, Team Aer Lingus said:

Great work Kenny looks great & taking shape nicely well done

 

Thanks, Eamonn!  The fuselage is a little lopsided (to me) due to an earlier overzealous sanding session, so I'll be building it up (again) with Mr. Surfacer to add balance. Luckily, the clear parts are done, which is a big, big relief.

On 12/13/2020 at 3:22 PM, LaurieS said:

brilliant work Alex

Really appreciate the support, Laurie!  The kit is good to start with, just needs a little refinement.  Would love to see you post on your Viking, when you have the opportunity to get to it--but first, the Bristol 170!

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I fitted the wings by stages this weekend, beginning with the port wing, which I think had the better dihedral.  After securing it in place with strips of sheet styrene and liquid cement, I used it as the benchmark for the starboard wing.  The fit at the root was poor, but I ensured that the dihedral on both wings was the same by bracing the model on one side, checking the vertical alignment of the tail (taking into account its taper), and measuring the tips from the ground.  Satisfied, I added LockTite liquid CA cement to fill gaps, and later, Mr. Surfacer.  I expect that in the course of sanding, the fuselage doubler plates around the wings will probably disappear, which is fine, because they seem barely noticeable on the real aircraft.

 

After waiting overnight, I then added the horizontal stabilizers.  Again, fit was extremely poor at the stabilizer/body join.  I've braced them appropriately.  Photos of the real aircraft indicate these had practically no dihedral at all.  My method of ensuring more-or-less proper alignment is to hold the model straight ahead of me and slowly rotate it until the horizontal stabilizers disappear behind the wing.  If they do, that's all I need.  This kit has no weird warpage that might frustrate that effort.

 

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Here is a close-up view of filler around the trailing edge wing body joint:

 

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Great work. Alex. Wow you got to a lot of work, admire it, to get things level etc.

 

Got to be honest I do mine by eyeing up. Got a bit of experience as going around building sites inspection you get a feel.

 

Got my Viking. Be onto that after the Bristol.

 

Laurie

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/20/2020 at 6:28 PM, LaurieS said:

Got to be honest I do mine by eyeing up

That's a good way of doing it, too!  I think there is some allowable variation in dihedral on all aircraft, proportional to the size of the machine.

 

On 12/20/2020 at 6:33 PM, Norman said:

Looking very nice indeed !

Thanks, Norman!  More below.

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5 minutes ago, TheyJammedKenny! said:

That's a good way of doing it, too!  I think there is some allowable variation in dihedral on all aircraft, proportional to the size of the machine.

The dihedral is a fixed parameter of the aircraft, much as the span, length or wing area.  There is some unavoidable variation, as in all such constructions, but this is tiny.  The dihedral is there to correct the aircraft's stability.   

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Here's the global view: wing and stabilizer roots puttied and sanded, engine nacelles mated, forward fuselage reshaped, sanded, and re-scribed, and the navigator's astrodome cemented in place.  I also carved recesses for some of the photo-etch metal antennas to anchor them into place, and used CA glue to hold them there.  It's a bit risky to do it this way, but I've done it before, with the fussy metal vortex generators on BPK's 1/72 737-200.  

 

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For others that are building this kit, I present you with a crude reference for how far forward the engine nacelle's leading edge should sit relative to the fuselage.  After fussing with it a bit, and getting consistent results on both sides of the airframe, I concluded that six scale feet (1") relative to the rear frame of the second window makes the most sense.  It's an even measure, and probably the one the engineers themselves were happy with, although weight/balance considerations would have prevailed here, rather than looks.

 

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And here's the new nose-on view:

 

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Happy New Year to you all!  I'm expecting a better 2021, and hope I'm in good company in that regard.   

 

Here's the latest on the project.  After contemplating several solutions on getting the props "right," I decided to make it so I could remove them if I needed to (such as for transport), and rotate them to ensure they were properly centered.  As the kit engines are crude and the real things practically invisible, I opted to hide them further through the use of Evergreen 1/2" diameter tubing.  On the back of each prop, I installed a short length of brass tube that fits directly over the 1/2" tube.  This had the advantage of allowing me to sand the brass/plastic joint to restore the lost symmetry (through earlier sanding) of the prop spinner.  I confess I briefly toyed with the idea of adding cooling fans, but quickly abandoned the idea as too complicated and unlikely to look right.

 

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And here they are, as installed.  As you can see, there's a little camera lens distortion that makes one engine appear crooked, but be assured that they are facing in the same direction!  There won't be any weird wobbliness in flight...

 

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I've started masking in preparation for the two different primer coats--white on the fuselage top, gloss black everywhere else.  I selected the color demarcation on the basis of its relative simplicity, as found on aircraft of 84 and later, 233 Squadrons, stationed in the Aden Protectorate (Yemen).  They will be separated by a roundel-blue cheat-line, with the dashing lightning bolt just aft of the cockpit transparency.  These particular aircraft had the nose portion of the cheat-line positioned neatly beneath the "bumps," which will make it easier to place the decals.  Also, they lacked any fuselage titles representing ownership.  Perhaps by

the early 60's these aircraft came from a maintenance unit in the UK and there was no time to apply "Royal Air Force Middle East" or other titles.  Either way, it keeps it simpler.

 

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Other side:

 

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1 hour ago, TheyJammedKenny! said:

Happy New Year to you all!  I'm expecting a better 2021, and hope I'm in good company in that regard.   

 

Here's the latest on the project.  After contemplating several solutions on getting the props "right," I decided to make it so I could remove them if I needed to (such as for transport), and rotate them to ensure they were properly centered.  As the kit engines are crude and the real things practically invisible, I opted to hide them further through the use of Evergreen 1/2" diameter tubing.  On the back of each prop, I installed a short length of brass tube that fits directly over the 1/2" tube.  This had the advantage of allowing me to sand the brass/plastic joint to restore the lost symmetry (through earlier sanding) of the prop spinner.  I confess I briefly toyed with the idea of adding cooling fans, but quickly abandoned the idea as too complicated and unlikely to look right.

 

 

 

And here they are, as installed.  As you can see, there's a little camera lens distortion that makes one engine appear crooked, but be assured that they are facing in the same direction!  There won't be any weird wobbliness in flight...

 

 

Happy New Year to you all!  I'm expecting a better 2021, and hope I'm in good company in that regard.   Gee  so do I. Bright spot 14 days time get my first Covid Jab being vintage

 

Nice work Alex been busy looks good. Look forwardd to seeing the paint job as it progresses.

 

Laurie

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