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Revell 1:32 F/A-18E Super Hornet...........WIP


Starspell

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Hi Steve. What a disappointment, the Alclad I mean! 

I’ve had mixed results with this paint. My last project was a Revell 1/32 Gulf war Tornado. I airbrushed it with their Desert sand Mil Spec enamel. Like you I set the pressure at 20psi and started spraying, all good for about 20 secs and then the nozzle blocked (I was spraying with HS infinity using a 0.3 needle and tip). 

I stripped the brush and found the tip well and truly clogged with fine sand, I guess the pigment they use. My only option was to clean it out and continue, I went through this routine more than 10/15 times before I got all the paint on. I was happy with the finish though, it wasn’t like yours at all. I emailed them got a reply that didn’t really help. You could try the same and see what they come back with. 

What’s the paint underneath the Alclad? 

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@Old timer  Primer is good old Tamiya primer.

I've got some MRP which I think I'll use for the lower surfaces, have no problems with that, sprays beautifully.

Edited by Starspell
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So with Tamiya it doesn’t sound like the primer has anything to do with it.

Like you say, dump the Alclad and go for your tried and tested MRP. I’ve not used it before but read a lot about it. I’ve tried to buy it recently but no one seems to have the colours I’ve wanted. Anyway, good luck getting it sorted. Can’t wait to see the Rhino completed! 

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So I have the major painting done now, and I also have a clear coat on as well (Alclad ALC-310 Klear Kote Gloss)

Was 'surpised' to note a big difference between  Aclad and MRP, both claiming to be FS 36375 - LGG (A+B) and FS 36320 DGG (C+D). When Alclad used on model (B+D) I had to double check what I used as the difference between the Light and Dark was so little that I thought I'd accidentally used the Light on the top side.........(I hadn't).

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Used a thinned down Tamiya X-18 semi gloss black for the exhaust stains.

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Not so much difference between the dark and light ghost grey (Using Alclad Mil-Spec). Wasn't terribly impressed with it to be honest and had planned on using MRP for the underside. However, I didn't think I had enough on hand so I persevered with the Alclad for the underside. Still had issue with slight 'pebble-dashing' despite playing around with pressures.....bottle says 15-20 psi.......I went down as low as 10 psi (which was slightly better). Once dry, a rub down with a soft cloth removed the dusting/pebble-dash effect.
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With the painting and clear coat done and dry I have started with a 'dark dirt' flory wash.
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This may be well known, but it's a new discovery for me. Stumbled upon a better way to remove the flory than with a damp cloth..........just scrub it off with a dry piece of sponge. To my eye, it leaves a better look (and slightly dirtier than with a damp cloth). 
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Just a quick note on the Alclad paints. I sent an email to Alclad asking if they had any explanation for my experience with their paint. I was contacted within 20 minutes by a guy called Robert asking "Could you please tell me what Mil-Spec you have, also if you have any Alclad Airbrush cleaner you can use this to thin the Mil-Spec down". Sent him details and he again relied within 20 minutes with "What is your address I will put some replacements in the post also with an Airbrush Cleaner, I won’t use any of the ones you have. It looks like bottle from the end of a filling run that has dragged some think stuff up". Sent him my address and again quickly got "Hi Steve, It will go in the post tomorrow

So......, maybe I just got a couple of bad bottles which they are replacing FOC, along with FOC cleaner as well!!

What great customer service :) 

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On 15/10/2020 at 11:19, Old timer said:

It’s my first time with PE, my first impression is I’ll need a big magnifying glass!

@Old timer

Spot on about the magnifying glass. Many years ago, I was building a ship model HMCS Snowberry, a flower class Corvette, and I was adding A LOT of PE and using CA glue, but I developed an allergic reaction to the CA. It can do this, so take care of the fumes. Nowadays I use UV glue, Epoxy or PVA for PE.

Jon

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Kudos for sticking with this despite all the problems the kit throws up.

 

Whoever signed this project off at Revell as 'QC PASS - fit for market' should never be put in charge of a kit design project again. If this were a new model company's first effort and venture into the art of plastic kit tool making then you could understand it, but with over half a century of experience, what's their (justifiable) excuse?

 

Gary

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20 minutes ago, Faraway said:

Many years ago, I was building a ship model HMCS Snowberry, a flower class Corvette, and I was adding A LOT of PE and using CA glue

As a side-note to my post, regarding the Snowberry. My window cleaner saw me modelling last week and asked me if I would consider as sort of commission build (he'll buy the model and paint.....I just build). wants me to build the  

HMS La Malouine~K46, Flower Class Corvette - as his grandfather served on it during the Convoy PQ17. Do you recall what model you used.....or have any pics of it (or thread?)

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53 minutes ago, Starspell said:

Do you recall what model you used.....or have any pics of it (or thread?)

I never finished it because of the CA reaction I had. But now, I’m tempted to continue and use UV glue. It is a very large kit, at least 3’ long. It’s sitting in a large box, where it has been for 20+ years, covered in spider web etc. I’ll take some photos tomorrow and let you know.

It is a 1/72 scale Revell (formally a Matchbox kit) and I have a lot of PE by Great Little Ships.

https://www.djparkins.com/home.php?cat=264&page=1

Jon

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Progress report. So, I've got her all dirtied up and sealed with another clear coat.........and now on to the mind-bending business of decals..........there's loads of the little blighters, must be a couple of hundred got to go on!! This is going to take a few days I think, keep popping out to my shed and do a few and then take a break as I am getting cramps in my hand and I'm sure I'm boss-eyed when I come in..........🤪

 

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Hi Steve. You mentioned “popping out to my shed” a few posts back. Most of my modelling seems to be done in my shed too. Do you do anything special overnight with your acrylic paints when it freezes outside?... 

 

 

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@Old timer. My 'shed' has been insulated a bit, lined with 30mm polystyrene sheet. Sure it gets cold in the winter time but I don't do anything else and all my stuff seems to survive all right.

@hugogo. Thanks for your comment, and yes, the finish line is somewhere not too far off. Still got a whole bunch of decals to go on and I'm slowly working my way thru the load-out. Fit hasn't been too much of an issue for the most part but then I knew in advance (from your thread) where I was likely to run into issues...forewarned is forearmed as they say.

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Thanks Steve. Mine is lined with 50mm polystyrene with a 25mm Air gap to the outside wood panelling . Last winter I left a half a cup of water on my work table, next morning it was frozen solid. All the makers of (water based) acrylics say don’t store them below 0C. I tried using some of them afterwards with poor results. I’ve now taken to removing them all into the house until spring time, but it’s a pain. I’ve got light and heat in the shed but of course only use it whilst working there. I guess living 200 miles + north of you makes the difference. Anyway thanks for your experience. 

Cheers. 

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Finally got all the decalling done! On the home leg now, got a semi gloss top coat to go on, finish up the ordinance and then final assembly of flaps/wheels/doors/ordinance etc.

All in all, not as bad as I was expecting given the reviews I read online, few few quite bad fit issues and a fair few minor 'niggles'..........but not so bad as to make me shelve it.

 

Off to do the clear coat now............then finish up painting/decalling and weathering of the bombs.

 

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Well spotted! That was my 'deliberate' mistake, only noticed it myself when it was dry and too late to do anything about it. Just keep it between the two of us..........I'm sure no-one else will notice 😉

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So sorry I'm very late to this party, built this exact kit earlier in the year and made a comprehensive build log of it here, could have been more helpful if I'd been around! 

 

I see you've conquered most of the challenges anyway! I actually liked the build, it was better than I'd been led to expect. Will definitely try another one in future. 

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Well, that's a bit of a PITA!  Someone in Revell messed up as they do not supply you enough decals on the sheet!

For the weapons pylons you have 4 inner and 2 outer. For each inner pylon side you require 1 x #74, 1 x #78, 1 x #80 and 1 x #81.......2 sides per pylon (obviously!) so 2 x 74, 78, 80, 81. There are 4 inner pylons so need 8 of each decal for all pylons. So...what do they give you............only 6!!! Bravo, well done Revell!!!!

Need 12 of each when you do all the inner and outer pylons 🤔   So I'm just gonna have to do one side of the pylon only.............dammed annoying.

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Edited by Starspell
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