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Alpine A110


Toftdale

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  • 2 weeks later...

Engine's done. I've added a distributor,  sort of cheated instead of drilling out individual holes for each lead I used some evergreen tube enlarged the hole and superglue all the wires in one hole.  To create the anodised look of the rocker cover (hopefully 🙏) I used Alcad hot metal blue over a chrome paint, the paints have reacted and crackled a little.   But not enough to make me start again.

 

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On 29/11/2020 at 19:17, CrazyCrank said:

Stunning job at this 1:24 scale 👍

Keep up the good work 😉

Thanks for the comment, it really is a complement from someone of your skill level - Andy

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Done the clear coat today - good and bad.  On the whole really happy. However I have a run on the front left corner.   I brought a micromesh polishing kit ages ago but have never been brave enough to use it.   Has anyone any tips?  Much appreciated Andy

 

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I have some experience with sanding out drops of clearcoat. I let the clearcoat get really hard (if I use spraycan for the clearcoat, I wait about 4 weeks). Then I use the sanding pads that come with the Novus polishing kit and gradually wet (using plenty of water) sand the run away. The clearcoat will really dull, but it will become shiny again when you use the finest grid of sandpaper (if not use a buffing/polishing compound). Be careful not to damage the lip that surrounds the wheel arch.

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Hi Andy

 

Lovely finish! Shame about that drop! And not in the best of areas... I was going to suggest something similar to Pascal but since I have no experience in removing drops like that I didn't want to say anything just in case it turned out to be the wrong thing to do!

 

If you haven't got any I would recommend getting the Tamiya polishing compounds at least the coarse and fine and if you can the finish as well. They will bring back thar gloss sheen no problem.

 

Good luck!

 

Nick

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10 hours ago, Pascal said:

I have some experience with sanding out drops of clearcoat. I let the clearcoat get really hard (if I use spraycan for the clearcoat, I wait about 4 weeks). Then I use the sanding pads that come with the Novus polishing kit and gradually wet (using plenty of water) sand the run away. The clearcoat will really dull, but it will become shiny again when you use the finest grid of sandpaper (if not use a buffing/polishing compound). Be careful not to damage the lip that surrounds the wheel arch.

Hi Pascal, thank you for the advise.  I did not realise I would have to leave the body as long as that (although it will take me all that time to pluck up courage), Oh well at least I have plenty of time to concentrate on the interior.   As I said when I first introduced myself  I normally build to a decent standard,  however several of my models have a good side.

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1 hour ago, Fnick said:

Hi Andy

 

Lovely finish! Shame about that drop! And not in the best of areas... I was going to suggest something similar to Pascal but since I have no experience in removing drops like that I didn't want to say anything just in case it turned out to be the wrong thing to do!

 

If you haven't got any I would recommend getting the Tamiya polishing compounds at least the coarse and fine and if you can the finish as well. They will bring back thar gloss sheen no problem.

 

Good luck!

 

Nick

Hi Nick, thanks for the comments and the excuse to go and buy more stuff!  Andy

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I've had the runs attack me on a couple of projects too, annoying when it happens. I'd have to back up Pascal's advise. With the Micromesh, I'd start very carefully with the 4000grit until you have it somewhere near smooth. You'll need to be careful with that lip as already said. If you start seeing colour, stop and give it another coat of clear. When it's close to smooth, you can move onto the 6000 through to 12,000 grits then the polishing compounds will give a good finish. If I'm honest I've never completely got rid of runs for fear of causing more damage if I sand too far, but I have at least got them sanded back far enough that you don't notice them - once you've gone over with the compounds it's surprising how the last little bit of run only becomes visible from the wrong angles.

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This is truly a great build so far. Sorry to see your misfortune up front there. You'll be able to get it all straightened out with the wet sanding and polish I think but be weary of the way that area will look being a metal flake. Solid colors are alot easier but there may be some distortion in the look in that area. Just a heads up.

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Had a good weekend and got the dash finished.  Replaced the column storks with insect pins.   Painted the two lights on the dash with a cocktail stick (never tried that before, worked really well)  and finally made some bezels out of 5 amp fuse wire by wrapping it around a drill bit, screw driver etc.  This took many attempts and almost my sanity,  but I think the end result were worth it 😀 .  It just shame you won't be able to see it in the finished car!

 

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14 minutes ago, Toftdale said:

  It just shame you won't be able to see it in the finished car!

Maybe not but you know it's there and that makes all the difference! Whether it was worth your sanity only time will tell 🤪 😋

 

Lovely work on that dashboard.

 

Nick

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With not being able to finish the body I've been cracking on with the interior.   I used textured paint (Zero) for the first time on the central panels on the seats, not sure if its all that clear on the photos, but looks good in real life.  Also added a photoetch racing harness from Eduard, very impressed with this, for photoetch it was very soft allowing it to be easily bent and not spring back.  Bare metal foil was used on the gear lever surround and the bit next to the handbrake that looks like an ashtray? and fuse wire again around the hole in front of the gear lever.  Thanks for looking Andy.

 

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Just a little update got the wheels finished.  Originally I was going to paint them gold, but decided not to as I associate this scheme too closely with an Impreza (before anyone gets upset,  I'm am not saying I don't like the Impreza it just that this is not one 😁).  Plain aluminium seemed, well to plain.   So I managed to find a photo of the same 4 stud wheels supplied with the kit and copied this.  Using Tamiya semi gloss black, liquid masking and AK aluminium.   Thanks for looking - Andy  ps the wheels are now fitted and all 4 touch the ground!  

 

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Roll bar and engine cover finished 

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So this means I have now trail fitted the body and chassis together 

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Fits perfectly, and more importantly the engine cover fits as well 😊 

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So whilst I wait for another couple of weeks for the clear coat to fully harden before attempting to reduce the run, I got a great idea for a Lotus Seven!  Again thanks for the views, comments and likes there al very much appreciated. 

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