HoolioPaulio Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 I'm starting on the second of my three car kits gifted to me by a friend at work. He's a damn good miniature painter (Warhammer and the such), and had bought these for his son who ended up moving on from model building. I don't have a complete plan yet, probably going to build this one OOB as the GTO detail up PE set only seems to be available in Australia currently. Its not going to be red, too obvious for a Ferrari. I want to do it some form of metallic yellow maybe, if I can get the shade right. Or maybe like a powder/baby blue. I'm just gonna wing this one and try to have fun rather than stressing over a specific direction. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pascal Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 Metallic yellow = giallo tristano , nice color for the 599GTB. This is a 599GTO : 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoolioPaulio Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 4 hours ago, Pascal said: Metallic yellow = giallo tristano , nice color for the 599GTB Oooo tasty. I like the black roof/mirrors too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoolioPaulio Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 Well, finally kicked this one off, and I've settled on a colour for the body. As always, I start with the wheels so I can slowly build up a rolling chassis etc. First job, drill the brake rotors and scrape the chrome off the inner and mating points for the rims Then comes paint Decal detailing on the calipers Job done 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Nice work, but has Revell come up with some strange arrangement where the brakes sit between the outer and inner set of wheel spokes? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macsporran Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Real alloys don't have a set of inner wheel spokes. I'd suggest Revell have moulded the inner wheel with spokes simply to facilitate easier mounting of a fixed caliper with turning wheel. (Although the disk should turn with the wheel of course!) Nice work HP. With the delicacy of your drilled disks, maybe worth stripping Revell's quite heavy chrome plate and spraying Molotov liquid chrome? Looks great as is though. Looking forward to seeing the colour you choose. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Wheels look really nice. Well done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoolioPaulio Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 3 hours ago, johnlambert said: but has Revell come up with some strange arrangement where the brakes sit between the outer and inner set of wheel spokes Yes, its very strange. Like nothing I've seen before. And the inner spokes are painted black as they aren't supposed to be there. I assume as @Macsporran has said, its to facilitate the strange setup of the disk rotor being what holds the wheel on to the suspension. I've never seen this on a car kit before. I get the impression though that this setup will make for a more robust attachement of the wheels while still allowing them to rotate. And yeah, disks really should turn with the wheel and the caliper be fixed, but we can't have everything at this scale I should have shown the back of the wheels, but this setup does make for quite a sizable attachment point between wheel and susp, hence my belief that it may feel more solid than previous wheel attachments I've seen on 1/24 kits. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoolioPaulio Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 On 25/09/2020 at 08:46, Macsporran said: maybe worth stripping Revell's quite heavy chrome plate and spraying Molotov liquid chrome? Thats next on my to do list of skills to attempt. But as yet I don't have the stuff to strip chrome (in fact I can't remember what is required from when I read up on it ages ago), or the Molotow, which while expensive stuff looks to be every bit worth the cost when I get around to it. So for now, as much as I hate it, the clunky chrome has to stay and hopefully my drilling will distract people Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 1 hour ago, HoolioPaulio said: Thats next on my to do list of skills to attempt. But as yet I don't have the stuff to strip chrome (in fact I can't remember what is required from when I read up on it ages ago), or the Molotow, which while expensive stuff looks to be every bit worth the cost when I get around to it. So for now, as much as I hate it, the clunky chrome has to stay and hopefully my drilling will distract people I use Mr Muscle oven cleaner because I read on here that it would work and I have some to clean my oven. It only takes a few minutes to strip the chrome and an old toothbrush will help get in any nooks and crannies. If in doubt, cut a bit of chromed sprue and try with that (which is what I did the first time), so if you do end up melting the plastic or something else bad happens it hasn't happened to that vital model part! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macsporran Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 (edited) Stripping the chrome is dead easy. Some Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner in a jar and soak wheels for a few minutes. Use an old toothbrush to scrub off crevices. (The oven cleaner foams up so decant into jar through a straw and allow to settle.) Don't breathe in fumes and wash hands etc. Molotow is amazing stuff. I always strip chrome and use this or Bare-Metal Foil. BTW many of the Revell Ferrari models have the same wheel/disk setup. I haven't started my 599 yet so look forward to your build. Cheers Edited September 27, 2020 by Macsporran Predictive text! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoolioPaulio Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 Thanks for the push guys. Stripping chrome is dead easy I dropped a bit of sprue in some Domestos, and in the 30 seconds I was looking around for where to put it to stand the chrome had gone. So the wheels have been stripped. They can now be tidied up, edges sanded and minor flash removed etc. I'm not sure why they look so shiny though, is there some top coat under the chrome? I've also ordered some Molotow as its payday tomorrow, but I won't be doing these wheels with it. Most modern alloy wheels should not be chrome anyway, they look better painted in aluminium and glossed, to me anyway. But I can strip and Molotow the lights and grill on this for practice 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoolioPaulio Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 Well, I dunno about you guys but I think they look a lot better. Took a lot of work though, getting rid of the horrid flash inside the rim that had originally been chromed. Also I couldn't get the two halves of rim to meet up in the middle (I'd discovered none of them were glued when I pulled them apart, very easily) assembling it the way Revell suggest. I had to glue the rim halves together first, then force the tyre over the top, so there is a little touch up required on two of them, that wasn't apparent until editing the photo on screen 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 Those wheels do look very good. Cheers, Alan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 28 minutes ago, HoolioPaulio said: Well, I dunno about you guys but I think they look a lot better. Took a lot of work though, getting rid of the horrid flash inside the rim that had originally been chromed. Also I couldn't get the two halves of rim to meet up in the middle (I'd discovered none of them were glued when I pulled them apart, very easily) assembling it the way Revell suggest. I had to glue the rim halves together first, then force the tyre over the top, so there is a little touch up required on two of them, that wasn't apparent until editing the photo on screen Neat! Big improvement! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 They do look a lot better! For next time, if you put some barely-bearable hot water (from the tap, not the kettle) in a bowl, and let the tyres sit in that for a few minutes before putting them on, they’ll be a lot more tractable. And you can put the wheels face down on your cutting mat and push the tyres on from the back to protect them even more... best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoolioPaulio Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 1 hour ago, cmatthewbacon said: if you put some barely-bearable hot water (from the tap, not the kettle) in a bowl, and let the tyres sit in that for a few minutes before putting them on, they’ll be a lot more tractable lol, wish I'd thought of that for the first three, but only did it for the last one that wouldn't go on dry. First three would have gone on so much easier, but never mind. Every day feels like a school day in modelling (for me anyway) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 ...while I think of it, one more thing... which hopefully will come BEFORE you find out the hard way! I haven’t built this vanilla 599, but I have built both the Revell 599 GTO and the SA Aperta, which share 95% the same DNA. On both of them the bonnet doesn’t close properly OOB, and you need to fettle it. Look at most builds online, and you’ll see the front left corner of the bonnet has a gap. It’s easy to fix, if you start early (much more of a pain if you’ve painted everything!). First you need to slim down the hooked mountings that go onto the bonnet, and take a sanding stick to the pins until they are round, not square. Then ease the part they fit into until they are a nice loose fit. The bonnet will stay up without friction, but the pin needs to be able to drop down and back so the top edge can slip into place. Then you need to bend the front left corner of the bonnet down just a bit. It’s not by much — keep test fitting and trial the whole assembly while the body shell, mountings and bonnet are all bare plastic... best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 This is the Aperta: ...and the GTO: The SA Aperta is benefitting from what I learned on the GTO... best, M. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoolioPaulio Posted October 3, 2020 Author Share Posted October 3, 2020 Detailed the bottom of the chassis (tray?), and assembled the front running gear. Also had a test fit of the bonnet, after the warning from @cmatthewbacon and I think I got lucky, not too much to do there, but need to also get the bonnet hinge involved and make sure the whole thing fits and moves correctly at some point. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyChiken Posted October 4, 2020 Share Posted October 4, 2020 Cool project, and those wheels look much better stripped and repainted! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Mansfield Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Those wheels look so much better without the chrome. Bonnet looks like a good fit to me, I always sand away a little more as I know I’m quite heavy when painting 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoolioPaulio Posted October 13, 2020 Author Share Posted October 13, 2020 Well, between working, and decorating, and general family stuff, I've been stealing an hour two here and there to work on the engine and drive train. I haven't been having the time to take any 'along the way' photos, so here's the completed unit. Some parts are a little ganky, and a few seams I for some reason didn't spot until the alu went on that I wished I removed. And for some reason I had the shakes more than normal while trying to detail the alu on the top, but it looks fine if you step back a bit and squint. Also annoying that they emboss 'Ferrari' on the top of the engine in 4 places, and supply lovely decals, which are a smaller font size than the embossed. Which I only noticed once the setting solution had done its job and dried 😡 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoolioPaulio Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 And we have our rolling chassis. Wheels are not yet attached, with how difficult it is to get the shell over the wheel arch liners I figured I'd leave them out of the way for now. Also you can probably see I had a little CA disaster on the front left. Luckily, most, if not all of it isn't visible when its finished... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoolioPaulio Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 OK, so the body went on much easier the second time, just needed to figure out where to flex and pull to get it over the arch liners. Looks like a tidy fit And with the bonnet up the engine seems to be in the right place and looking good to move on now 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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