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AMT 1971 Dodge Charger convert to 1974 Charger


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Started more than 10 years ago and now back on the bench due to lock-down (Thanks Covid) I'm not sure if this is of any interest to anybody here but maybe just an idea of how OCD an auto mechanic building a model car can get.

This, (if ever completed) will be a model of a car I bought from a scrap yard and restored/ re-powered with a Plymouth 440 CID 6- pack carburetor intake, auto trans. back around 1983. The model has taken substantially more time to build than the real car. I no longer have the real one (divorce expenses) but with the shape of our environment now I wouldn't want to drive it anymore anyway. So, this will give me a chance to have my 74 Charger again.

OK. Some images...if this works. The kits in use; top body a Nascar stock car 74 Charger (wont work) middle body (the body in use here) with the door vents filled and rear windows re-shaped (the bottom body for parts)

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the kits I'm using;

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because I've re-shaped the windows the interior sail panels need to be re designed as well

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That work in progress

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The AMT 71 Charger (the one on the right) has a nice interior that fits very well...but wrong for my car. Mine had an interior from a 74 Plymouth Road Runner, white vinyl and plaid cloth. Daisy Duke's Plymouth Road Runner used for those parts (the one on the left) but because it's a different kit, it has to be modified (widened) to fit.

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I had the shifter console from that car as well.

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Most car models I've seen have the seats glued to the floor, they should have a seat mount frame...not strictly accurate here but the jist is there, adjusting handle and tilt button on the back rest.

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Thanks for stopping by (helpful comments welcome)

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Thanks...maybe more fun to watch than build?? lol

I have test fitted the seats, so far it's promising;

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Jumping around a bit in construction, I'm trying to decide how important an accurate i.p. and dash are;

From the top, the correct dash, wrong instrument panel (i.p.) no tach..... middle; correct dash, wrong i.p. again, no tach. but some very useful pedals, bottom, correct i.p...wrong dash (no vents) 

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I'll have to re-visit this later when I can make up my mind I guess.

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Continuing construction, if it can be called that. More like Frankencar work.

The tail lights on the 74 are quite different from the 71 I have cut out the details for the 71 and made some (kind of crude right now) details for the 74 to be

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The same kind of choppery going on in the front to make a 74 grille

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front and rear about 1/2 done...maybe

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The kit rear axle, what Chrysler would call an 8 3/4" differential, the car did have one but I replaced it with a 9 1/4 "positrac"  limited slip differential. Not wanting to buy another kit for the "correct" axle I cut up a Dana 44 or (60?) to kind of "imitate the Chrysler 9 1/4" 

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the leaf springs needed a bit of work as well...

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the car had headers with resonators...no mufflers. If you find yourself wondering how loud could a 440 CID engine be with headers and "straight pipes" think; loud Harley Davidson X 8...

These are made with solder brass and aluminum.

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Thanks for stopping by, helpful comments welcomed.

Edited by chrispisme
typo
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Thank you! I hope I can keep my momentum up. I usually don't build model cars so I'm in somewhat uncharted territory, just going from memory of the build and pictures of the real car. I am struggling with the rear anti sway (terminology may differ) bar right now, I know (if my memory is working) that it was attached (and pivoted) at each frame rail, was linked to the axle/spring pads but can not remember the exact shape. Online pics don't help because I've not found any that have the sway bar (ralley bars?) fitted, mine had front and rear heavy duty sway bars. Work...such as it is, continues.

Still jumping around in the "build" the engine is amixture of Revell/Monogram cylinder heads and intake (for accuracy) engine block and transmission from AMT (for fit) Here, I've added the trans. dipstick tube and shift lever (the trans. has been drilled for cooler lines and speedo cable) 

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AMT exhaust headers (not strictly accurate but I'm not going to fight every fight) I had to cut off the flanges and change the angle to bring the headers in closer to the engine.

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The right side one has been adjusted for fit. To be more accurate the front head pipe should exit the flange and make a 90 straight back, then turn down between the 3 and 4th head pipes

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My car had "coil assisted/or, coil over" heavy duty shocks (reduced wheel hop on hard launches) 

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The drive shaft or, prop shaft, not quite cylindrical in the kit but with the correct double choke down, here re imagined in aluminum rod

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A bit of a "mock up" test fit and fabrication of park brake (emergency brake) cabling to the rear drums.

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The backing plate/brake drum is supposed to turn with the wheels (inaccurate at the minimum) mine will be fixed solid (if completed)

Thanks for stopping by 

 

 

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That looks like an automatic transmission, the first time I've seen a 1:24 or 1:25 Mopar kit with something other than a representation of the manual gearbox (I've got a Monogram Plymouth Road Runner in my stash that I'd love to have a column-shifted auto as it would match pictures of a real car I found online that I quite liked).

 

Anyway, more impressive work, the underside takes me back to earlier this year when I added a bit of extra detail to an AMT Plymouth GTX.  I wish I could help with details of the rear anti-roll bar (or sway bar) but I don't think I've ever seen a picture of one fitted, I didn't even know one was an option!

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1 hour ago, johnlambert said:

That looks like an automatic transmission, the first time I've seen a 1:24 or 1:25 Mopar kit with something other than a representation of the manual gearbox (I've got a Monogram Plymouth Road Runner in my stash that I'd love to have a column-shifted auto as it would match pictures of a real car I found online that I quite liked).

 

Anyway, more impressive work, the underside takes me back to earlier this year when I added a bit of extra detail to an AMT Plymouth GTX.  I wish I could help with details of the rear anti-roll bar (or sway bar) but I don't think I've ever seen a picture of one fitted, I didn't even know one was an option!

Thanks for the reply!

the car, in fact, most of the “muscle cars”, I knew of had automatic transmissions, this one was an uprated 727 Torquflight with Hemi front clutch pack (to account for a weakness of the standard “heavy duty” automatic) factory high stall converter and manual shift valve body with (slapstick) shifter which meant if you selected “D” to drive it, it would be in D or, 3rd gear. It had to be manually shifted up and down through every speed through the slapstick shifter, I’m not sure if “slapstick” was the Chrysler term or generic term but we used it universally. From 1st, max rev’s, bang the shifter into 2nd (a ratchet device prevented going past any gear without pulling the shifter back slightly to unlock it) max rev’s again (pull slightly back on the shifter) bang ahead into 3rd....all the Rest of the way

Enough of that...as you say though, I think the real muscle cars were the ones ones with “mixing sticks” manual gear boxes, or , column shifters and no real accessories. This car was right at the end of that era, kind of like the last dinosaurs to be left. She was a hefty girl too at almost 4000 lbs...but light on her feet

 

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progress continues (That's what I'm calling it) 

Continuing the theme of bouncing around in construction, I've gone back to work on the engine, or more precisely, the accessories.

AMT did a quite nice job of the Saginaw power steering pump and steering gear, I've just cleaned them up a bit to sharpen some details;

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This one is hard to see (damned white plastic) but it's the P/S pump body (on a sprue stub) but now with a lid on the reservoir, and drilled for high and low pressure hydraulic hoses

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and all stuck together

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The centre (primary) carb had an automatic choke on a riser, I've attempted that here, neither secondary carb had choke plates.

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The dash with the pedals;

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pedals relocated to a more prototypical location;

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As always, thanks for stopping by...helpful comments welcomed

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Seems to me you're doing great for a "non car builder". Keep it up, it's an interesting project!

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An astonishing level of detail! I'll be following the build for sure.

 

What colour, or color, will it be wearing? A big part of me wants it one of the high impact ones, along with period slot mags. Whichever way it goes, it's going to be a looker.

 

Tony.

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3 hours ago, TonyW said:

An astonishing level of detail! I'll be following the build for sure.

 

What colour, or color, will it be wearing? A big part of me wants it one of the high impact ones, along with period slot mags. Whichever way it goes, it's going to be a looker.

 

Tony.

I’ve got the paint here right now, the original was “Dodge- Fire Red” a very bright red...I may have a picture of the prototype around here somewhere.

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Thank you very kindly!! the encouragement is appreciated!!

I was puttering away here working on the engine, the tires, the wheels...ok. you get the idea. The look of the carbs bothered me, just something odd (even after adding details) Then I figured out the problem, I could see right down into them, there should be boost venturi in the throats of the carbs...well, all but the primary which has a choke plate and is hard to see into.

Here's the assembly with a small piece of .045" brass tube soon to be cut into 1mm lengths and simulate boost venturi in the carbs;

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and the venturi's installed;

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linkage under construction;

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A donor 440 CID from a police car kit, I need to remove the fuel pump and other bits;

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A kit tire (vinyl?) beside my home made low profile BFG (impersonators) 245/60 15's in front 295/50 15's out back

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A bit of clean up needed before use but, a full set;

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In resin so I can file a flat spot to simulate the 3700 lbs the machine weighed

The real one (before the power bulge hood and new rubber were added) outside my parents house around 1984

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Edited by chrispisme
typo
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More great work, it'll be a shame to hide those carburettor throats under the air cleaner.

 

I've got a Dodge Monaco police cruiser kit in my stash, I may take inspiration for the motor from the picture you posted.  I must admit I'm never sure which Chrysler Corporation engines should be red/orange and which should be blue.

 

Those tyres are impressive too and it's nice to see pictures of your old Charger.

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8 hours ago, johnlambert said:

More great work, it'll be a shame to hide those carburettor throats under the air cleaner.

 

I've got a Dodge Monaco police cruiser kit in my stash, I may take inspiration for the motor from the picture you posted.  I must admit I'm never sure which Chrysler Corporation engines should be red/orange and which should be blue.

 

Those tyres are impressive too and it's nice to see pictures of your old Charger.

Hi John

the engine that went into my charger was a 1969 HP 440, originally  from a Charger, it’s biggest difference was a drop forged steel crankshaft, instead of a cast iron crank. When I got hold of it, it was orange/red. I repainted it after it’s overhaul “stock blue” (because I like blue)...but you’re correct, I’ve seen older “original” Mopar engines painted orange/red, also, this “Chrysler blue”,  Ford blue, turquoise, gloss black  and red...may depend on who did a rebuild??
I’m not exactly sure when Chryco. went from orange/red to blue engines, possibly very early 70’s

to be a truly accurate model of (this car) in it’s original state, it should have a Mopar blue 318 CID.
I think the 6 packs were no longer offered after 1972(ish) but were available from Chrysler’s performance company, “Direct Connection” up to the late 70’s early 80’s cast in aluminum.
thanks for pointing that out, if anyone is interested in an authentic duplication of a factory original color engine it’s best to check references for the car in question

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That's incredible detail in that engine, I always feel very humbled when people on here post stuff like that. And the tyres aren't bad either...

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Thanks! I'm happy to be amongst such great modellers!

I've added a few more details to the engine, the accessory drive isn't glued on yet and I need to do some paint touch up's here n there...

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Thanks for looking

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Hahahaha thanks!

I may yet re-wire the ignition system...see how enthusiastic I am. The engine still needs a throttle return spring and other details as well.

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I added the brownish colored varnish to the alternator stator, it always seemed quite apparent to me.

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charcoal return canister, it was present as an early evaporative emissions control...didn't work well with the engine in use though, but covers the pin/hole nicely

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AMT did a pretty nice job on the brake master, I've pinched my fingers under the lid retaining clip many times so, I figure I should add one here. MY vibration coils are a first try and too big, I'll make smaller ones

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and opening the cowl vents, built a backing and will cover with RB Productions screen

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Thanks for stopping by

Edited by chrispisme
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Thank you very much!

I wasn't happy with the spark plug leads so, I picked up some tailored orange wire and replaced the home made stuff I had made, this also gave me an opportunity to add the valve cover plug wire clips...don't ask how many of these tiny little buggers "poinked" out of the tweezers never to be found!

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I've started or, re-started work on the interior as well (still jumping around)

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as well, some detail work on the console 

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Thanks for looking

PS. I buggered up the firing order, I got  cylinders #4 and #3 crossed at the distributor, should be 18436572 but is 18346572...she's gonna have a misfire.

Edited by chrispisme
typo
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