Questions in regards to gloss

[Niko_]

I decided that an old Tamiya KV-1 would be a good way to warm up. Nothing crazy, no stowage, no scratch building today...

 

Assembly went alright and I even made some armor texture with Surfacer 500. I preshaded, and did some "distressing" that I saw in a YouTube video. I airbrushed Tamiya paints thinned in Tamiya's lacquer thinner which went nicely. I used some hairspray between 2 green layers for the effect and the model looked pretty good.

 

 

I then wanted to seal what I've done so far with a varnish. I used the Tamiya spray can for gloss varnish and did several light coats. I ended up using the entire can and the model still was not fully glossy and the surface seemed rough. This already seemed strange to me and I knew I made a mistake somewhere down the line but I was not sure where. I shared the photo to a couple of friends and one suspected that I thinned down the paint way too much and it dried mid-air leaving a rough "orange-peel" effect. He suggested I use Mr. Color Leveling thinner because it has retarder in it. On top of that he claimed that Tamiya gloss coat is "garbage" and the Mr.Color gloss varnish is much superior. Instead of buying new thinner I will experiment adding Liquitex flow-aid (retarder) into my thinner when I paint. Leveling thinner is expensive and hard to get here in Florida while my local shop has Tamiya thinner. I was a little frustrated with how the gloss went and I began wondering how people even get to automobile gloss. What are the best products for getting gloss coats?

 

 

I then wanted to unify the greens a little and wanted to tint the model yellowish to get closer to the "4BO" Soviet color. I mixed some yellow ochre oil paint into Tamiya enamel thinner to make a "filter". I then brush painted it on the model and suddenly the paint in specific areas seemed to melt to gray. I was bewildered because I have never used gray on those areas of the model and the plastic is green to start with! I preshaded black and white but not gray. The filter seemed to work alright but that grey stuff was just growing out of a couple areas of the tank and I really wonder how that happened. I always thought that enamel thinner did not activate acrylics. I even applied a varnish and it still ate through it to a color of unknown origin.

 

 

I am just confused on where I really went wrong and how I can prevent this from happening again. I plan on painting and experimenting on plastic spoons from now on and not on my models. Ultimately what is the best gloss varnish that one would use on the models?

 

Also, this is my first time posting on this forum so I hope I did it right!

 

[Longbow]

Your oil thinner and the gloss may not have been compatible. 
The first gloss coat from the can looks like it was a dry coat, misted too far from the model...,

 

I could be wrong though. 
 

I have Never been able to get, or been satisfied with my application of a gloss coat. 

[StuartH]

Hi, I can't really comment on the specific issues you have raised but I would agree with Longbow that it is likely to be a compatibility issue with different manufacturers.

 

For gloss coat I use what was formerly known as 'Klear' or the American version 'Future' by Sc Johnson. I think it has now changed its name to Pledge floor polish or something like that...just search for 'Future' floor polish / SC Johnson and you should be able to find it. It is acrylic based I think and works well for me. I guess you could use an artist's gloss varnish such as Winsor & Newton...I use their matt varnish and their products are very good and quite gentle on the underlying paint coatings.

https://finescale.com/how-to/tips/2018/05/reader-tips-pledge-future-gloss-has-a-new-name

[Niko_]

Thank you for the advice Longbow and Stuart!

 

I was spraying far and in humidity which could be reasons why the finish was poor. I find the idea of compatibility a little strange though as I was using Tamiya gloss and Tamiya enamel thinner for the oil paint. I would think that Tamiya products would work together in harmony but I would have to try to replicate this on plastic spoons to be sure.

 

I am aware of it and do use Future, or used to. I was not quite happy with the gloss coats I got with future as they seemed sticky or rough. That's why I decided to use this gloss varnish on this model. I also am wary of future as turpenoid will shred through it and all the way to the plastic.

 

Again I plan on testing all of this out on some spoons. I will try out as many gloss coats as I can before I get what I need. Its a rather frustrating experience though. I will be sure to post my findings.

 

 

[Longbow]

When I was in in England, I used a polyurethane mat and gloss varnish, thinned with white spirits. I can’t get that here. 
I’m just using Vellejo varnish thinned with Aztec airbrush thinner, because it’s available at Hobby Lobby. 
 

For the mat I’m using AK One Shot. 
 

I’ve had no issues, and do pretty aggressive weathering. 

[Model Mate]

I've often had "grainy" paint issues with air-brushing too. I think it is caused by the paint drying too quickly as it's applied. I usually use enamels, which you'd have thought would be less of a problem but there you go. I'd also strongly recommend "Klear/Pledge" - it's wax based so provides a barrier coat that can sit bewteen acrylics and enamels/oils or the other way round. All paints seem to sit really well on it and it can get to a high gloss. However, if you've got grainy basecoat(s) I don't think you'll ever get a high gloss. If you've lots of decalling to do this could be a problem, but I've found that Klear over grainy paint, whilst not appearing terribly shiny, does a perfectly good job of providing the barrier coat you need to stick washes etc. on top.

[Longbow]

25 minutes ago, Model Mate said:

I've often had "grainy" paint issues with air-brushing too. I think it is caused by the paint drying too quickly as it's applied. I usually use enamels, which you'd have thought would be less of a problem but there you go. I'd also strongly recommend "Klear/Pledge" - it's wax based so provides a barrier coat that can sit bewteen acrylics and enamels/oils or the other way round. All paints seem to sit really well on it and it can get to a high gloss. However, if you've got grainy basecoat(s) I don't think you'll ever get a high gloss. If you've lots of decalling to do this could be a problem, but I've found that Klear over grainy paint, whilst not appearing terribly shiny, does a perfectly good job of providing the barrier coat you need to stick washes etc. on top.

What do you use to clean the airbrush with, once you've used Klear or Future ?

[Model Mate]

oh I brush it on generally - 50% Klear, 50% water with a tiny drop of washing up liquid in to break surface tension. Little bubbles can form, but they usually disappear during drying. A couple of coats does it and when well thinned it results in a very thin coat which self-levels pretty well. If you brush it on neat, it can tend to pond.

I have airbrushed it too - again thinned with 50% water, and it worked very well. I always clean my airbrush with whatever thinner I've used - in this case water of course - but also run a bit of white spirit or cellulose thinner through to thoroughly clean. Cellulose will melt and clean out pretty much anything you put in your airbrush

[Big_Bad_Bill]

I use this stuff: https://www.lakeland.co.uk/20286/Quick-Shine-Floor-Finish-800ml?src=gfeed&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMItKyKlNXt6wIVy7HtCh3ixwAMEAQYASABEgK-3_D_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!49!3!456457690750!!!g!371351242556!&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItKyKlNXt6wIVy7HtCh3ixwAMEAQYASABEgK-3_D_BwE

 

I believe it is US made. I just brush it on. It is self levelling and gives a great surface for decals.  I've tried spraying it as it is milky consistency already but it easier just to brush and have decanted some into a old tamiya paint bottle for that purpose.  For the amount I use I reckon the 800 ml bottle will outlast me.

[M3talpig]

The last pic you posted showing the top down of the fenders is showing a problem called "pigment separation" to many layers of paint too fast and you have had a build up of solvent that has broken the bond between the pigment and the thinning agent....finer coats and and more drying time between them will stop that from happening........and you don't need to use a gloss coat before weathering a satin coat will achieve the exact same result.