luftmodels Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 Hello everyone! Quite fresh to modeling and would appreciate some tips from the pros. I'm building 1/32 A6M2 Zero and would like to make 4-5mm circle cut in a wing so I can accommodate "glass window". What would be the best and the smoothest technique? Drilling? Punch? Something else? I need the thickness of the wing [in that area] to be thinner as well. Thank you so much! 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 Drill a small pilot hole first, about 1mm diameter, then use a step drill to enlarge the hole. A step drill goes up in 1mm steps and as it does so it thins the edge of the hole as well just before the next step, ie at 4mm going to 5mm it thins the edge of the hole 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luftmodels Posted September 15, 2020 Author Share Posted September 15, 2020 3 hours ago, Black Knight said: Drill a small pilot hole first, about 1mm diameter, then use a step drill to enlarge the hole. A step drill goes up in 1mm steps and as it does so it thins the edge of the hole as well just before the next step, ie at 4mm going to 5mm it thins the edge of the hole Thank you for suggestion. I had never used such a tool. What are the benefits over regular bits if you go progressively from smaller to larger one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted September 15, 2020 Share Posted September 15, 2020 The step drill is designed for sheet metal work. The holes it makes are clean and are parallel sided, there is no chance of the cutting edge getting caught by a burr as does a twist drill sometimes. The one in the photo is self starting and goes from 3mm up to 13mm. Other size ranges are available. 3mm to 13mm in one tool which you can easily turn in your fingers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luftmodels Posted September 15, 2020 Author Share Posted September 15, 2020 12 minutes ago, Black Knight said: The step drill is designed for sheet metal work. The holes it makes are clean and are parallel sided, there is no chance of the cutting edge getting caught by a burr as does a twist drill sometimes. The one in the photo is self starting and goes from 3mm up to 13mm. Other size ranges are available. 3mm to 13mm in one tool which you can easily turn in your fingers. I appreciate your explanation. Sounds like exactly what I need. Thank you so much for fast answer! 🙏🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dnl42 Posted September 15, 2020 Share Posted September 15, 2020 Be careful with those things, they can wander at each step. Personally, I would start with a center punch using a needle, then a 0.5mm drill and step up, 0.5 mm at a time. They key to using a pilot drill is to ensure the web of the next larger drill fits within the existing hole. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted September 15, 2020 Share Posted September 15, 2020 1 hour ago, dnl42 said: Be careful with those things, they can wander at each step. In 46 years of using a step drill I have never ever had that happen! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luftmodels Posted September 16, 2020 Author Share Posted September 16, 2020 On 9/14/2020 at 10:47 PM, dnl42 said: Be careful with those things, they can wander at each step. Personally, I would start with a center punch using a needle, then a 0.5mm drill and step up, 0.5 mm at a time. They key to using a pilot drill is to ensure the web of the next larger drill fits within the existing hole. On 9/14/2020 at 11:58 PM, Black Knight said: In 46 years of using a step drill I have never ever had that happen! Thank you guys. I appreciate your advice. I think I will buy one and try it out. Do you use it manually? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted September 16, 2020 Share Posted September 16, 2020 On plastic I use it manually. PS you can get these in old fashioned 'Imperial' measurements as well which are handy for some intermediate mm steps, e.g. 1/4 inch = 6.35mm for between 6 and 7mm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luftmodels Posted September 16, 2020 Author Share Posted September 16, 2020 (edited) 11 hours ago, Black Knight said: On plastic I use it manually. PS you can get these in old fashioned 'Imperial' measurements as well which are handy for some intermediate mm steps, e.g. 1/4 inch = 6.35mm for between 6 and 7mm I'm looking for metric markings because fractional inches are useless [for me] in such tiny works. Edited September 17, 2020 by luftmodels Messed up metric and imperial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted September 16, 2020 Share Posted September 16, 2020 On 15/09/2020 at 04:58, Black Knight said: In 46 years of using a step drill I have never ever had that happen! I think it's time you put that drill down and went for a bit of a rest. Aren't your hands stiff? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luftmodels Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 11 hours ago, Black Knight said: On plastic I use it manually. PS you can get these in old fashioned 'Imperial' measurements as well which are handy for some intermediate mm steps, e.g. 1/4 inch = 6.35mm for between 6 and 7mm This is the smallest I could find on Amazon. What do you think about it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 Thats the jobby. Shop around tho. I found the 3mm to 13mm one at about 1/3 of that price on UK ebay. The imperial size, 1/8 to 1/2 inch, is harder to get but on UK ebay its about 1/2 that Amazon price PS. it says it can be used on wood ~ nope, its useless on wood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luftmodels Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 4 minutes ago, Black Knight said: Thats the jobby. Shop around tho. I found the 3mm to 13mm one at about 1/3 of that price on UK ebay. The imperial size, 1/8 to 1/2 inch, is harder to get but on UK ebay its about 1/2 that Amazon price Did you try to say "hobby"? 1/8 in equals 3.175mm so 3mm metric is better option imo. The cheapest on ebay is $4.52 and comes from China which can take forever. If it arrives. I had my last 2 packages lost so I don't even bother. $3 extra and that thing on my bench few days later. Can't beat that 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nheather Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 Thinking out of the box a little here. One of my other hobbies is radio controlled model aircraft. The propellers have to be a perfect fit on the engine/motor shaft so usually come slightly under-sized and you then use a propeller reamer to open it up until the fit is perfect. They are very sharp, and you can get ones that don’t have steps, like this one https://www.rcworld.co.uk/acatalog/Knife-Edge-Reamer-With-Carbon-Handle--5535508.html#SID=154 You can get cheaper versions, mine didn’t cost as much. Cheers, Nigel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luftmodels Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 (edited) 4 hours ago, nheather said: Thinking out of the box a little here. One of my other hobbies is radio controlled model aircraft. The propellers have to be a perfect fit on the engine/motor shaft so usually come slightly under-sized and you then use a propeller reamer to open it up until the fit is perfect. They are very sharp, and you can get ones that don’t have steps, like this one https://www.rcworld.co.uk/acatalog/Knife-Edge-Reamer-With-Carbon-Handle--5535508.html#SID=154 You can get cheaper versions, mine didn’t cost as much. Cheers, Nigel This is very interesting. I had no idea about this one. Thanks! How clean is the cut? Are there any benefits over the one with steps? Edited September 17, 2020 by luftmodels Added Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nheather Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 Can’t say about that one, mine is an older simpler design and maybe a little blunt now as I have had for many years. I think if I was faced with making a 5mm I’d still be reaching out for my set of drills. One thing with the propeller reamer is that they usually have larger holes in mind - yes they will do 5mm but will go up to 12mm or more so maybe a little cumbersome for plastic model making. Cheers, Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luftmodels Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 (edited) 4 minutes ago, nheather said: Can’t say about that one, mine is an older simpler design and maybe a little blunt now as I have had for many years. I think if I was faced with making a 5mm I’d still be reaching out for my set of drills. One thing with the propeller reamer is that they usually have larger holes in mind - yes they will do 5mm but will go up to 12mm or more so maybe a little cumbersome for plastic model making. Cheers, Nigel Got it. Thank you so much! I will definitely look deeper into it. This looks legit and people like it. Ten bucks isn't bad for such tool. Edited September 17, 2020 by luftmodels Added Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 Start with a drill, finish with a tapered reamer like the one linked to. If you make the window glass first then you can gently open the hole out until the glass is a perfect fit, which you might find easier than trying to make the glass fit the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luftmodels Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 5 minutes ago, halfwit said: Start with a drill, finish with a tapered reamer like the one linked to. If you make the window glass first then you can gently open the hole out until the glass is a perfect fit, which you might find easier than trying to make the glass fit the hole. I don't have "glass" as it is. I will glue in [from inside] a square transparent plastic piece cut out from clear plastic packaging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 10 minutes ago, luftmodels said: I don't have "glass" as it is. I will glue in [from inside] a square transparent plastic piece cut out from clear plastic packaging. To bring the 'glass' up level with the wing surface, or just under it. Put in your clear piece, then fill the hole with UV Resin. Thats what I do. The resin hardens clear, it can be sanded or shaped, polished up and clarity can even be restored with another surface coat of the resin. Its how I made the laser nose on this old Aitfix Jaguar GR3 I do it for landing lights as well but I don't have photos 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luftmodels Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 1 minute ago, Black Knight said: To bring the 'glass' up level with the wing surface, or just under it. Put in your clear piece, then fill the hole with UV Resin. Thats what I do. The resin hardens clear, it can be sanded or shaped, polished up and clarity can even be restored with another surface coat of the resin. Its how I made the laser nose on this old Aitfix Jaguar GR3 I do it for landing lights as well but I don't have photos That's nice trick to have. Thank you for advice! However, in my case the glass is below metal surface so I'm quite safe here (not to mention absence of uv resin in my arsenal). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luftmodels Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 I tried that stepless tool on a bottle cap and it was quit hard to make a hole. I'm not sure whether I was trying on wrong kind of plastic or whether it was just really bad tool. 🤨 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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