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Simon Dyer

Filler

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Hi Folks

 

Ive not been able to get on the site as a newbie (to the site) to explore as much as I would have liked to have. Still trying to get my head around it.

 

Im currently building among other things a 1/48 Revell Dornier Do 217 E-5.  At the moment Im using Mr Surfacer 500, 1000 & 1200 which is great to a point.  I have an old tube of Humbrol Model Filler some 20 odd years old which although still good I dont particularly like.  Ive also used Milliput in the past and sorry to seem a bit fussy but I wasn't keen on that either.  

 

Being relatively new back into kit building and thinking for the second time it was possibly a dying hobby, (how wrong could I be)  I walked straight into the 'MODELLING MINEFIELD' there is so much stuff out there where do you begin?????

 

If anyone could recommend an easy to use all around filler it would be much appreciated.

 

Apologies if I have posted this in the wrong place, any guidance would again be appreciated

 

Kind regards

 

Si

 

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I use Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty. This is the exact same stuff Squadron sells; it's just repackaged. This is cheaper than Squadron. I've used it for years and there has been no shrinkage on my models.

 

81uIeolldYL._AC_SY550_.jpg

 

EDIT: I should have worded it a bit different. Squadron Putty is actually Bondo Putty repackaged. Bondo offers three colours which denote drying and working times

Edited by fubar57

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It would help if you could say what your problem is and what it is you are trying to do. Mr Surfacer is fairly widely used. I use 500 a lot for filling seams - using a toothpick / cocktail stick to apply it and wiping off with isopropanol alcohol on a cotton bud. That preserves any detail on the plastic.

 

Mark

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Hi Simon, I've moved this to the correct section for you, as it's about filler rather than the model you're applying it to :)

 

As to the filler, just grab a pack of Tamiya Basic Putty, and as long as you're not lashing it on in big dollops it's a good option.  Keep it thin and it'll dry quickly, then you can sand back after leaving it to cure and do any shrinking that it might need to do.  I also use super glue (CA) as a filler, but remember to sand it back as soon as it is touch dry, as it gets harder as it cures.  Leave it too long and it'll be harder than the surrounding plastic and hard to get it smoothed. :yes:

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I have only used Mr. Surfacer 1000 so far. I apply it with this sewing needle which has had the eye cut back to a small V. I also use it for applying small drops of superglue.

 

27870158927_5892864c01_c.jpg

 

27870158947_fd0e5bbe2d_c.jpg

 

 

 

 

Chris

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Horses for courses, I use Squadron white (see Bondo above) and Deluxe Perfect Plastic Putty for fine filling. It's one of those questions you will get many answers to. I've used Humbrol, Italeri and Squadron green in the past. Couldn't get on with any of them.

Some people chop up spare sprue in liquid cement and make a paste as a filler.

 

That Dornier is a nice kit. Do yourself a favour and get some Montex glazing masks for it. It will save lots of heartache.

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/MXSM48133?result-token=xRKSA

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2 hours ago, fubar57 said:

I use Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty. This is the exact same stuff Squadron sells; it's just repackaged. This is cheaper than Squadron. I've used it for years and there has been no shrinkage on my models.

 

81uIeolldYL._AC_SY550_.jpg

 

EDIT: I should have worded it a bit different. Squadron Putty is actually Bondo Putty repackaged. Bondo offers three colours which denote drying and working times

Thanks fubar57.  A bit spooky really.  Ive been thinking of using the great Donald Sutherland as Oddball as my pic as well, obviously cant now seeing this :( 

 

Having a bit of a bad time at the moment and recently contacted my friend sending him exactly the same pic but saying about 'NEGATIVE WAVES MAN', and to get rid of them, he is from Canada as well BTW.

 

Thank you for the info on the filler and seeing Oddball has made my day/month thank you

 

Woof Woof

 

Si 

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3 hours ago, Mark Harmsworth said:

It would help if you could say what your problem is and what it is you are trying to do. Mr Surfacer is fairly widely used. I use 500 a lot for filling seams - using a toothpick / cocktail stick to apply it and wiping off with isopropanol alcohol on a cotton bud. That preserves any detail on the plastic.

 

Mark

Hi Mark

 

Ive come against some quite big voids should we say and as much as I love Mr Surfacer I think I need something a bit more solid.....ish if you know what I mean. I have gallons of IPA so should be okay on that front

 

Thanks Mark

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4 hours ago, Mike said:

Hi Simon, I've moved this to the correct section for you, as it's about filler rather than the model you're applying it to :)

As to the filler, just grab a pack of Tamiya Basic Putty, and as long as you're not lashing it on in big dollops it's a good option.  Keep it thin and it'll dry quickly, then you can sand back after leaving it to cure and do any shrinking that it might need to do.  I also use super glue (CA) as a filler, but remember to sand it back as soon as it is touch dry, as it gets harder as it cures.  Leave it too long and it'll be harder than the surrounding plastic and hard to get it smoothed. :yes:

Thank you Mike much appreciated for the filler info. Also thank you for re-directing me. however, please excuse my ignorance but I have no idea where I am at this stage or where I should be, sorry 😱😱 

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4 hours ago, dogsbody said:

I have only used Mr. Surfacer 1000 so far. I apply it with this sewing needle which has had the eye cut back to a small V. I also use it for applying small drops of superglue.

 

27870158927_5892864c01_c.jpg

 

27870158947_fd0e5bbe2d_c.jpg

 

 

 

 

Chris

Thanks Chris. My wife was a seamstress, just hope she does not miss the needles.  Great idea will give it a go

 

Si

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10 hours ago, Simon Dyer said:

however, please excuse my ignorance but I have no idea where I am at this stage or where I should be, sorry 😱😱 

You'll get there eventually. :yes: The good-old heirarchical folder structure is useful, but it can be confusing initially (and sometimes subsequently), but if you ever get lost, just scroll to the top and have a look in the top left box below the header, which will show you exactly where you are.  Then there's the Home button, and the View New Content button, which most folks use when viewing the site more passively.  HTH :)

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13 hours ago, Simon Dyer said:

 

Ive come against some quite big voids should we say and as much as I love Mr Surfacer I think I need something a bit more solid.....ish if you know what I mean

You could try slices of styrene (plastic card), or any discarded pieces of kit, which is a good way to fill larger gaps. Sand it down then use Mr Surfacer to neaten it.

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Hi, Simon.

 

If you fancy better value-for-money than modelling-fillers usually provide, got to Halfords or any car-care shop and get some Holt's Cataloy Knifing Putty. I have a few comments on-line it can be tricky to use well, but follow the instructions and I'm sure you'll be fine with it. I can't remember what my tube cost me (I think it was 5 or 6 quid, but you get a load for your money). 

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Chris. 

Edited by spruecutter96
Amending some information.

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18 hours ago, Simon Dyer said:

If anyone could recommend an easy to use all around filler it would be much appreciated.

This comes up from time to time.

 

One thing I really recommend, is to minimise filler use,  I know it's stating the obvious, but dry fit,  then scrape, sand and adjust can really help, as well as making sure alignment pins actually align!  

Think about assembly sequences,  for example, sometimes it helps to add upper wings to a fuselage to avoid wing root gaps,  and a seam on leading edge is easier to deal with,  add tabs for support or alignment. 

 

I managed to keep a lot of models from my youth, and looking at ones when I got 'serious' I can see times when I wish I had known all of the above!   

 

14 hours ago, Simon Dyer said:

Ive come against some quite big voids

 

As suggested, plastic sheet or scrap.  Same material, does not shrink or crack.  Sprue runner can be shaped quickly, or even good old stretched sprue, if you use the stuff from the kit it will be consistent.

 

Sheet is very good for straight gaps, leave some sheet sticking out, and then trim with a knife.

 

Being somewhat lazy,  I really like using superglue,  both for assembly and as filler, as stated, it does dry harder than the plastic,  but if you mix it with talc,  this gives it body, and it's not as hard. 

( I just used some to fill some small holes in my windows :rolleyes:

I've been saving small jar lids to mix it up on,  as they are 'free' and disposable.

 

It's speed can be handy for touch up filler jobs. as you can sand in 1-2 minutes, rather than waiting overnight. 

 

Also,  post up a 'work in progress' build,  and ask for feedback,  the site has a very positive ethos, so whatever level you are at, you will get support, suggestions and encouragement,  and  it's quite revealing to see your work in wider, common context. 

And, it well worth having a search about and see how other people have found X kit,  one final point, getting back to my alignment, as a returnee, a are to be cautious, many modern kits have extremely tight tolerances compared to older kits, so much so that missed seam lines, sprue nibs or even a coat of paint can affect fit, often a few stages later,  examples are some Eduard kits and new tool Airfix, where problems with wing spars and fuselage bulkheads are not apparent until you try to fit other bits!

 

Right, must carry in with the windows.... 

 

 

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My go to filler is cheap superglue mixed with talc powder for small to medium gaps - try it, it is quick, and does not shrink

 

Les

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It's worth mentioning that filler is one of those well-intentioned materials that does its job beautifully.  But it's properties are different from the surrounding styrene and can't be expected to act the same way.

 

So large gaps - deep or wide - need to be rendered immobile before the filler is applied.  When you get to the sanding stage any movement in the structure will produce cracks in the now-dry filler.

 

Shims from plastic sheet, hunks of sprue and patience.  Letting the joint really cure before spackling produces a superior result.

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Thanks everyone for your tips and advice, very interesting an much appreciated, lots to try.

 

I will definitely try out the 'work in progress' 😱 at some stage. 👍👍

 

Please bare with me if I dont answer personally or delayed in answering anything. Still getting my head around the site and how it works. Im afraid Im no longer that tech savvy (my own fault).  I used to work on aircraft in the RAF many years ago and been in things technical most my life, recently MFD's. Unfortunately it has overtaken me and looking at me in the rear view mirror, Ive been to the options recently and although I can see it ahead of me its a bit blurred 😂😂 if you know what I mean

 

Thanks again for your help & patience

 

Si 

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