spartacus2000 Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 Hello everyone, here I am back to you with a new project, this time a slightly more hard kit than usual: the Me bf 109 A / B by Dora wings. The kit is a multimedia short run style kit with P.E. parts, resin and film for the dashboard as well as plastic obviously. It is a rebox of the early me 109 series already presented by AMG in 2017, while the Dora wins only have the pieces necessary for the A / B version, the AMGs have the possibility of reproducing versions up to D, externally it changes only a little propellers for the B / C / D which are in metal with variable pitch while they are in wood for the versions A and early B (B0 and B1) and the upper part of the engine cover and internally for the layout of the dashboard as in reality the first versions were equipped with engines other than the C and D. The plastic is quite soft and well workable but not free from smudges, the detail of the surfaces is good but for lovers of rivets if they want them they must reproduce them as the panels are completely free of them. Comparing the sources available to me I would say that the kit is accurate so now we can start with the wip BOX ART The first 109 models have a cockpit very similar to the E so I decided to use parts of an old set of the Aires from which I had taken some parts so unusable for a complete kit and I integrated the pieces of the Dora kit to retrofit the all to the right version. In the following photos the similarities are evident and then the breakdown of the kit helps the exchange as they fit perfectly decidedly more detailed tub Aires parts above, Dora Wings below I decided to use the seat from the kit as it is much more detailed than the Ares, from the latter I only took the support structure of the seat the pedal are that of the kit as in version E the pedals are punctured while up to D the latter are without lightening holes, I decided to thin them and to use the copper wire in place of the P.E. that are flat (then not you see nothing .... anyway). The side walls haven't undergone many changes, just the addition of the suit's heating system (I think) and some electrical cables and a different type of trottle on the other side. The seat received a 0.2mm lead wire edge to accentuate the almost absent profile, and the height adjustment system. COCKPIT PAINTING The photos were taken with the super macro so you will see all the imperfections that are not noticed with the naked eye WINGS Once the cockpit was filed and the fuselage closed, which among other things did not give any particular problems, apart from the usual grouting in the joints but not that important, the problem arises in the union between the fuselage and the wings. As I have already operated in the previous models, I proceed in 3 steps, I start with the gluing of the lower part of the wings paying close attention to the fitting especially in the back part which in this case had to be thinned at the root as it formed a step of 0, 5mm and so I saved myself a lot of sanding work (a bit of putty in the cracks will be enough) in the front part instead I had to touch up a part of the fuselage as the well bay prevented perfect alignment The black area must be eliminated to make the pieces fit together Work finished but .... Unfortunately I had to detach everything, because the wellbay also disturbs the upper part of the wings so that the step that would have been formed would have lost important details in case of sanding of the area between wings and fuselage so armed with Dremell and patience I arrived at this result So I restarted with step Num 1 and waited for the glue to dry completely Step num 2 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spartacus2000 Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 CHAPTER 2 We left ourselves at step number 2 of gluing the wings, so in the following pictures we resume with step number 3 and the various phases of gluing the various parts of the engine hood and air intake of the water radiator, also here carried out in steps: first one side and then the other, verifying the fitting and thinning the walls in contact with the fuselage as they form a step that would then need to be smoothed from the outside, losing details that would then be difficult to reproduce . The root of the wing has been re-engraved as from the Kagero drawings the paneling of the kit is wrong REVI It's time to close the cockpit so it's up to the collimator, I used that of the Airs even if it is supplied in resin by the kit and I also added the electrical connection cable to the dashboard, I placed it before gluing the windshield CANOPY here there is a big problem: the various pieces do not coincide there is a difference of 1mm more, so I had to file a little to make sure that the central part fits between the 2 sides, work a bit delicate because : risks to make the frames disappear (low camera battery so be satisfied with the quality) FINAL ASSEMBLY) The model is now ready for painting but this to the next episode. That's all for now cheers 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spartacus2000 Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 Hello everyone ... to tell the truth to the few aficionados, but let's proceed anyway Phase 3 painting Here we are at the stage that I prefer. I used the ModelMaster colors for the RLM 63 and RLM65 which I find very responsive to my sources and for the green RLM 62 instead I used the color of the AK interactive because strangely it is not present in the ModelMaster range (or maybe it is but not as RLM) However, this mix of various brands allows me to retouch the "62" in case something does not go as it should as with a little alcohol I can correct any errors or smudges but fortunately I did not have to intervene except in a point where the tape does not adhered to a paneling). lower surfaces: preshading with Gunze blue, panels lightened with + white, final coat with RLM 65 (the photo has turned a little towards blue) Preshading rlm 66 Gunze + white for the light of the panels and coverage with many coats of RLM 63 very diluted (70-80%) to better manage transparencies, wet on wet process with dry time of about 10-15 min and left rest all night to resume with the final cover the day after. Long but very satisfying processing as a final result, that is While the color was drying I spent the time preparing and detailing the trolleys, the kit is a bit sparse and the leg covers have been plastered as they have plastic shrinkages, but nothing impossible It's time for RLM 62, after the masking I performed a preshading with RLM70 and + white for the light of the panels, then a coat of flat clear was passed to seal the edges of the masking followed with the passes of "62" also here wet on wet but luckly the color dries faster so the waiting time between coats was 5 min (it took me longer to mask and remove the tape than to paint). Final results Ok that's all for now, I'll get to the PC to draw and cut the masks of the unit code Cheers 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spartacus2000 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 HI to all. This time only photos without comments since the photos are self-explanatory, national insignia,unit and walkaway are painted, I reproduced the decals on vinyl. Only incident the right wing tip broke and I had to redo it with a piece of plasticard, nothing difficult but quite annoying. For the rest all textbook, the model is now waiting for the complete drying of the transparent for the installation of the service decals (few to tell the truth) then I will touch up some smears before giving the second coat of clear to seal the decals and assembly of the most fragile parts. I hope to finish this week to start a new kit, before my laboratory gets too cold and winter season work absorbs all my energy. That's all Cheers 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holzhamer Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 You are doing some fine work indeed, very nice approach to small details that make a big difference when we look at the finished model, and a solid work with masks and paint. Looking forward to see the end result. Fo you think DW Berta to be the best available model right now to build a 1/48 model of this version? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spartacus2000 Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 Tnx for comment, AMG and DoraWings share the same plastic,the frist have the option to replic all the pre "E" version of the me 109(with minor intervention by the modeller to respesct the little change betweent version),and the full strencils when DW is poor. I dont know if there are other kit but I thnk not,the frist versions of the me 109 are not so popular 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spartacus2000 Posted October 3, 2020 Author Share Posted October 3, 2020 Hi guys, unfortunately I close here the adventure with the 109A after having struggled with the model because during the washes, part of the paint on the lower surfaces went away so I had to repaint them the same happened for the upper surfaces so as I say always: "a model is like milk: it has an expiration date", I don't get stuck on a model that feels it is no longer loved. So before breaking it with a hammer for the umpteenth time that a moving surface comes off (I have practically re-attached at least 2 times ALL the flaps, rudder slots etc.), I decided to put it back in the box and wait a bit; the model lo I want to finish well because I'm going to do all versions of the me 109s but I don't want to have a finished model just to finish it. So that's all for now, if the good weather continues I will start another kit (not binding since then I should leave it incomplete until spring) otherwise I will continue with the cad project and then print it with the 3d printer. Cheers 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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