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Pocher Huracan


rjfk2002
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I stand corrected on the radiators!

 

:wall: I will need to redo the trunk. Pocher showed the rubber part attaching to the top of the luggage tub. Looking at Koos DVD you are right it should come from below. Breaking the bond will be easy. The glue clean up will be a tad annoying… thanks for pointing this out. Much easier to fix now rather than later 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Frame Comes Together

 

The trunk has been fixed. I sanded off the dried CA and moved through a series of grits to restore the plastic. Looks good as new...

 

The front and rear frames have been attached to the cockpit and the beast gets heavier. The assemblies fit relatively smoothly as I had test fitted everything before. You will notice that the suspension has been left off. That allowed me to easily connect the steering column to the pinion gear up front. In the rear it helped to give me room to position hoses and other bits during the finally assembly. 

 

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The engine is straight in the frame. I still need to add the X-bar and paint the black screws silver. 

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The front view

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Now that the frame is complete I plan to test fit the body panels and finally tackle the ride height. I will be following the advice of @Fozz and @Dinky as I tackle the shocks.

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Very good progress, looking great so far. I really love that color green. Good save of the trunk, you dont see anything of it anymore!

ps be carefull with the wishiboines, they are wrong in the manual also. Left and right are switched, result is your wheels end up misaligned for a few millimeters.

 

 

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Test Fitting Begins

 

I mocked up the body panels to test ride height. In trying to get the panels I discovered a few things. First off in the front, the hoses to the front radiator block two screw holes for attaching the front of the body. As I disassemble I will need to take careful look to see if I can route the hoses differently to avoid this blockage. On the rear body it seems to fit fine on the driver side, but on the passanger side I'm running into the issues as the others. I need to examine in more detail but I believe I have the same issue with the edge of the cockpit interfering that @Dinky pointed out earlier.

 

As you can see this is still stuck in all terrain mode. I know Lamborghini and Audi share technology but I didn't know there was a Q5 suspension package offered for the Huracan! I did check the height with and without tension. The kit shocks do compress slightly - about 1 mm. Before I do finally measurements I will add the doors and hood to get it closer to full weight. 

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As you can see some serious work needs to be done to get the chasis lower. Stay tuned...

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Cool an all-terrain Huracan  😊

The hoses you can take of the middle radiator, install the screws, and put them hoses back.

For the rear body check this. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235079991-pocher-huracan/&do=findComment&comment=3868354

Also check the length of the fuel cell fill pipe, I had the feeling it was pushing the body panel upwards and cut a few mm.

 

Be careful with cutting to much of the springs, there will be some additional weigh coming on the car which takes it down. But it depends how low you like to go 😉

During the build I only modified my front springs and kept the rear original. About a month after completion, I installed two small blocks in the rear to limit the outgoing length of the shocks so that it sits 2 mm lower. I can upload a picture if you like?

 

Ps if your wheel is straight in the middle picture, I’m sure your lower wishbones are swapped (left and right)

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Agreed there is something off with the suspension. I think it may be the upper wishbones. I have since learned from Mr Koo that pocher mislabeled the right and left upper arms in the instructions and packaging. I will also double check the lower arms too. 

 

please upload the pic for the spring adjustment! That would be very helpful. Did you disassemble the shock and put plastic in the piston area to shorten the length?

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What I did to my front shocks. Push it in a little and the pin goes out easy. Be carefull as one side has grooves, you have to push it out the other side. 

 

This is the current stance of mine.

IMG-2899.jpg

 

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Thanks for the pic and the reference! I sorted out the front suspension today and can confirm the upper wishbones needed to be swapped. Now the wheels are centered. What is the approximate distance between the top of the wheel and body panel on your build?

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  • 4 weeks later...

The original front springs are too strong. If you shorten them they will be stiffer. It's easier to buy weaker springs and reduce the shock lengrh with a plastic plug above the pin.

Rear springs are OK, just add the plug.

You  need about 2 mm plug to get the right ride height.

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Thanks @Fozz. I have finally disassembled one of the shocks and will put the 2 mm plug in and test for the new height. Getting them apart was challenging and a four handed job. I don't trust the metal castings to hold up if I try to put it in a vice to compress. Instead I had compressed and asked the boss for help hammering out the pin. 

 

I have been doing some other work on the doors and headlights so I'm jumping around a bit. 

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@fozz did you end up using the softer springs for your front shocks? I thought in a previous post you mentioned going back to the stock springs as the new ones were too soft. Perhaps I am confusing the front and rear shocks?

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Happy New Year!

 

I have been slowly tinkering on the build and think I have finally rounded the corner on the ride height! For the front shocks I added a 2mm plug to shrink the shock length and used a softer spring as suggested by @Fozz. I removed the paint from the piston and hollowed out the bore on the shock end to improve movement. Assemblying and disassemblying the front shocks was cumbersome as they are relatively small and the spring is strong. I used a handheld vise to compress the shock so I can add/remove the pin but there is not a lot of room between spring coils.

 

In the rear I also used a 2mm plug to shrink the length. Unlike the front, the rear shocks are very easy to disassemble. This was a relief as my experience with the front shocks was annoying to say the least, so I dragged my feet on the rear... 

 

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The doors are wrapped in the towel and are there to better approximate the final weight of the model. Next up I will work on the rear body to get that ready for final attachment. I need to do a little filing on the passenger side to improve the fit

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And a Happy New Year to you too, Rich.

Ride height is looking good like this. Well done!

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Despite all the problems with this kit, I have to say that, it really is a great looking model. I really like this color green and the wheels give it a good look. It kinda reminds me of back in the day with my real cars. It didn’t matter what the car looked like, as long as it’s got some great wheels! I realize that these are probably the stock wheels but, it’s a good combination. I’m looking forward to seeing you bring this one to a conclusion and I’ll be interested to see what your next build is going to be! Good job Rich, keep pushing on!!

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Thanks gents. I am glad to be back it again. I have started to “permanently” attach assemblies - attached tie rides, stabilizer arms, paint screws, etc - that could not be done before when I needed to adjust the suspension. Fortunately I took good notes along the way (marked up the instruction manual) so I wouldn’t forget some of these details. It does involve a bit of disassembly though.

 

 

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Tail Lights

 

Installing the tail lights was quite an ordeal. The lens do not sit properly due to the paint on the body. In the Paul Koo DVD he suggests scrapping off the body paint. I was worried about compromising the paint so I instead sanded the edges to get the lens to fit. It was a lot of sanding, testing, sanding to get it exact. I didn't want to take too much mateiral off so I errered on the side of trial and error... In the end it fit perfectly. The black plastic border around the grill was also an issue. It was badly warped out of the box. Fortunately Hornby was able to supply me with a new part. It can't really be seen in the picture but I put foil behind the lights to give it a reflective quality

 

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Hornby CS is a favorite in my mail history now! My kit must have gone through some wild temp swings as there a few warped parts here and there. Also some of the metal parts were miscast but fixable. @Dinky had quite a few missing and malformed parts. Quality control was lacking with the Huracan. Same story with the design - some areas they seem to have failed to account for paint thickness. It’s a shame as the Aventador was a great kit. No design issues, part issues, everything fit together nicely. The Huracan has many more details than the Aventador and should be a better kit but they just whiffed on the QC… 

 

work continues on the rear body work and doors. Stay tuned 

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  • 1 month later...

I've spent the past few weeks fiddling with the rear body fit. I have filed paint off the joining surface and have gotten the fit correct on the driver side. The passenger side is giving me a lot of grief. The alignment between the door and rear panel is way off. The panel with the gas cap is not screwed in and just resting there which explains that area. But the door panel is way off

 

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I do not think I'm getting interference from the window frame (the area where the black pain was worn off) but I'm getting it from somewhere else... As @Dinky suggested I did cut down the length of the air box intakes as they did interfere with the body. That helped to fix the driver side. There is something else at play here

 

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