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Pocher Huracan


rjfk2002
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Cool, just make sure you test the springs with everything on the car, nose, hood and doors as the weigth can take it down. When the nose is on you cannot remove the shocks. Same for rear, the top brackets are covered by the airpipes and fender

 

 

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Re wheel fitment, Dinkey advised about the skewed front calipers.

This looks like a casting problem rather than warped caliper pins.

Thankfully, my discs will fit without scraping but the inside face of the wheel spokes catch the caliper.

 The only fix I can come up with is to insert a shim between wheel and disk, perhaps 0.5mm thick and glue it to the disc face.

You could make the bore smaller to avoid the sloppy fit of the disc.

Hopefully the tyre might just miss the wheel arch.

 

The wheel/disc fitment is abysmal attempt Mr Pocher, did you get bored?

The disc could be captive on the hub with a thin nut and the wheel much simpler to fit.

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Press the shock in slightly to take the pressure from the pin. If you look you see that one side of the pin has grooves, hit it from the other side with a small nail or something similar to the diameter of the pin and a hamer. As soon as the grooves are out its very easy to take the pin out. It only needs a small push or hit

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On 2/2/2021 at 10:04 AM, Fozz said:

This looks like a casting problem rather than warped caliper pins.

Which one of yours has issues, mine only the right one was bad. 

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12 minutes ago, rjfk2002 said:

Thanks Dinky I will try that 

Welcome! PS. If I look at some old pics I think the grooves are on the inside of the shock

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Thanks Dinkey,  both front calipers are slightly bent.

The wheel fits but just touches the caliper.

Nice idea cutting and bending the casting, but I am not confident in doing this. The casting could split and then you are sunk.

For me I am making wheel spacers to sit between wheel and disc.

0.4 - 0.5mm should do.

 

Re shocks mod, I received new springs and fitted them.  They are spot on. I did not bore out the top shock part as I need a pedestal drill so accepted the limited travel.  I could do it later with a small amount of strip down. You can get the springs from flexo springs.com part ref M205705 £1.36 each + vat and post. (They have a £9 min order charge)

This is the same length as the original but 2.3N/mm.  Don't forget to fit the plug above the pin as per earlier post. Looks so much better now.

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@Fozz the revised ride height looks much better! 

 

I am working to get the car on its wheels to see what I need to tweak with the shocks. I am a little nervous about fitting the body panels. I will need to study the Koo DVD and the posts from @Dinky on paint thickness

 

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I mocked it up and am very glad I did. The shocks are way too long. I will take them apart and try to adjust the length by shortening the travel length. These springs are also very firm. I need to find the springs Fozz suggested somewhere in the US

 

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14 minutes ago, rjfk2002 said:

I mocked it up and am very glad I did. The shocks are way too long. I will take them apart and try to adjust the length by shortening the travel length. These springs are also very firm. I need to find the springs Fozz suggested somewhere in the US

Rich, were it mine, I'd put the springs on my belt sander and take them down 3mm's at a time, trying as I go. This gives you a flat mating edge atop the spring like factory. That looks like 10+mm's above the tire. et both sides even. If you don't have a belt sander, try your neighbors or a local wood working shop. Yes adjust the shocks as you note.

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Have you thought of looking at changing the shocks as a whole...there are many available in the radio control arena...and they are very reasonably priced...you can even get hydraulic ones 😉

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On 15/02/2021 at 14:40, rjfk2002 said:

Found these springs on Amazon. Hopefully this close enough to what you found Fozz. I was able to open your links and study your shock diagram in more detail. I didn’t realize the kit springs were 4x the required strength!

Try Lee Spring,

They have branches across US.

The weight distribution is quite equal, front is 3.65kg, rear is 3.58kg.

The front is 1.82kg or 17.88N per shock. The compression is 3.59mm so spring rate around 4.47N/mm.

The springs I used were 4.55N/mm which converts to OD 0.413", wire size 0.05", free length 1", spring rate 25.98lb/in. Cat no LC 047EF 09M $7.04. Don't forget to add the blocks aBovey the pin.

You will have to check the free length for the rear springs, but the duty should be the same.

 

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If I were you, I would add the additional weight of the doors, engine and other various parts that will be on the assembled car before cutting the springs or going with something too low. It might look good mocked up but completely different after assembly and again over time. We all know how heavy and assembled Pocher model can be, especially the die cast ones and, the springs are the things that tend to start collapsing over time. This is why they gave us the little pylons to put under the frame on the Pocher classics. Just something to think about before making any big changes. 

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RC shocks are an interesting idea Ron!

 

@Fozz thanks for the spring info. I will look into those for the front shock and see if they work for the rear. I would like to try your suggestion on shortening the travel on the shock by blocking the channel before I cut anything. 
 

agreed Wayne. I will add as much of the body work and plastic parts s possible before I make any final adjustments. This was a preliminary test to see how far off it was to start. And it’s far of....

 

 

 

 

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@Dinky you had previously showed some plastic tubing that you used for the radiator hoses to improve the connection. Did you something similar for the small rubber lines that fit on the engine? Some of those connections are really poor - will add some pics later 

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I used it almost everywhere, also for the rubber lines on the valve covers both left and right and the oil tank in the top frame.

IMG-0524.jpg

Used this stuff below, when you cut it and slide the metal out is very thin and works perfect. 

IMG-2630.jpg

The hole in the bottom of the water coolant tank is also way to big and its very hard to glue it with some much space so I added one there also
IMG-0565.jpg

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