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If you run into this, its also "normal" behaviour ūüėČ

Just glue them and let them dry good before putting onto the car.

 

 

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On 04/01/2021 at 19:44, Dinky said:


Took me from September till December 31, 10+ emails and 5 phone calls to get 4 parts, all shipped separately instead of together... I guess that's easier¬†ūüôāūüôā
Must say I'm happy I got everything except of the bonnet which they cannot deliver anymore but Ill get it resprayed.

 


Welcome, one of my window trims was  deformed also, I think it was also right side. Reshaped it with some heat.

 

The whole rear is a pain, I guess it first perfect fine when there is no paint on the body.
I sanded the rear lights at the white lines, removed a part of the black plastic trim and removed the paint where the lights go in at the blue arrows, Also the trim is to wide for the body in my case, I attached some metal which is bend behind the body because there was to much tension.

IMG-0924.jpg

IMG-0920.jpg
 

You can fit the steering screw if you turn to left and put it in from the side instead of the top. I do remember I made the whole in the bottom a little bigger for the pinion shaft but I haven't done anything else. 

2021-01-04-20-33.jpg
 

Just curious, how do your front and rear windows look? 
Both of mine were still in the protection foil and it looks like the foil affected the surface of the clear, they have stains / clouds in them. 

 

On 04/01/2021 at 19:44, Dinky said:


Took me from September till December 31, 10+ emails and 5 phone calls to get 4 parts, all shipped separately instead of together... I guess that's easier¬†ūüôāūüôā
Must say I'm happy I got everything except of the bonnet which they cannot deliver anymore but Ill get it resprayed.

 


Welcome, one of my window trims was  deformed also, I think it was also right side. Reshaped it with some heat.

 

The whole rear is a pain, I guess it first perfect fine when there is no paint on the body.
I sanded the rear lights at the white lines, removed a part of the black plastic trim and removed the paint where the lights go in at the blue arrows, Also the trim is to wide for the body in my case, I attached some metal which is bend behind the body because there was to much tension.

IMG-0924.jpg

IMG-0920.jpg
 

You can fit the steering screw if you turn to left and put it in from the side instead of the top. I do remember I made the whole in the bottom a little bigger for the pinion shaft but I haven't done anything else. 

2021-01-04-20-33.jpg
 

Just curious, how do your front and rear windows look? 
Both of mine were still in the protection foil and it looks like the foil affected the surface of the clear, they have stains / clouds in them. 

 

Thanks for your help, there seems to be a lot of filing to do.

I will give it a try.

I had thought of cad modelling the aperture and making new lenses but the profile is too complex.

 

For the steering, I tried from the side but after an hour of faffing with the screw which kept falling off, it was easier disconnecting the track rod and rack mounting to drop the pinion into place.

For the cost of this kit, I would have expected machine cut gearing and a more precise fit for the pinion and ball joints.

The shock absorbers could be made with screw adjustment to set the height rather than having to cut the springs down which are way too stiff anyway. The mechanical parts - steering, transmission, suspension, bonnet and hatch hinges could be so much better Mr Pocher.

The discs are not located on anything apart from the wheels and the side radiators are missing hoses, there should be two per, surely.

 

For the windows, mine were OK. The marks could be from the film which is slightly tacky. Try cleaning with a non reactive solution maybe alcohol based if they don't wipe clean. I used spectacle cleaning spray.

 

I will post some pics shortly. I have a library of progress.

Just the rear lights to fix and waiting for my display case. (Not the pocher one, it's way too small to do it justice)

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Please post your progress Fozz. You are further ahead then me so it would be helpful for me and other builders to see!

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Firewall

 

Before I could finish up the cockpit I needed to tackle the front firewall. The part was riddled with ejector pin marks. In the visible areas I used putty to clean up as best I could. You can still see some in the pic below but those areas will be covered by other parts or impossible to see in the final build. After puttying the part, I brushed on some Future floor wax before priming white. My local art supply store had a spray color that is pretty close to the Lambo green. 

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I replaced the kit soft hoses with hard wire and shrink tube. I will scratch some covers for the exposed screws 

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Here it is installed on the cockpit

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Next up I want to assemble the frame and test fit the body panels to correct for ride height. As Dinky pointed out earlier, out of the box the car rides too high. I think its a good idea to tackle now before I get too many things built and bolted on to the car.

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Looking good in color and nice work on the brake lines!
Dont wait to long with the shocks indeed, its kind of impossible to take them off later.

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Re the Ride Height, it is way off.

I think it's 3mm too high.  I will know more when I take them apart and I can see you have separated them.  Is it a dowel pin or grub screw?

The spring rate is way too high also so maybe a weaker spring with a slightly shorter spring will do.

Sorry for the delay in posting progress. Still fighting the upload.

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On 1/4/2021 at 9:56 PM, Dinky said:

If you run into this, its also "normal" behaviour ūüėČ

Just glue them and let them dry good before putting onto the car.

 

 

 

Wow..! I'd certainly agree to that recommendation. 

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Tried making my best drawing of the shock with spring to explain what I did.
The spring is to strong so you have to push it in to easy remove the pin at the X arrow. Because of the spring tension the pin is pushed to the top of the shock and its hard to remove when not pushing in slightly.

One side the pin has some tiny grooves so if you hit it from the other side it pops out easy.

 

By default the spring has 2 flat ends, link the spring in the middle. When you cut 1,5 ring like I did, its suddenly not flat anymore and the top of the shock (A part) is curved on the B part. To prevent this I added a tiny piece of styrene in the A part as showed in the left at the arrow. The A part is hollow and the stryrene can be pushed in place.

 

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This is what I sawed off with the dremel

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Mine looked like this, but now with the hood (bonnet) its a little lower. If I had to do it over I would cut only 1 ring instead of 1.5

But is much easier to raise it, as lower it. Especially when the body is on the car.

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On 1/5/2021 at 4:56 AM, Dinky said:

If you run into this, its also "normal" behaviour ūüėČ

Just glue them and let them dry good before putting onto the car.

 

 

You can improve this by disassembling the ball joints, filing off the burrs and mould lines, then reassemble them. 

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Thanks for the tips. I thought my shocks had a tiny hex grub screw to hold in place. Closer inspection shows its just a dowel.

I expect it will be hard to remove as the drift used has deformed the pin end.

I can probably get shorter and less stiff springs made but they might be bit pricey.  I will find out.

Re paint....hiroboy.com do metalic huracan green paint.

They are in the UK.

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2 hours ago, Mark_1984 said:

You can improve this by disassembling the ball joints, filing off the burrs and mould lines, then reassemble them. 

 

I guess you refer to the burrs on the picture?
Tried doing that but even with that done, the result is the Youtube movie. Only way to take away the play is ultra thin piece of brass plate around the cilinder or glue. The cilinder is just a little to thin for the wholes in the wheel steering knuckles.
Another masterpiece of quality of Hornby¬†ūü§£

 

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1 hour ago, Fozz said:

I expect it will be hard to remove as the drift used has deformed the pin end.

 

Just give it a try, one of my pins bent also but the space inside the A part is hollow so its not hard to get it out

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9 hours ago, Dinky said:

 

I guess you refer to the burrs on the picture?
Tried doing that but even with that done, the result is the Youtube movie. Only way to take away the play is ultra thin piece of brass plate around the cilinder or glue. The cilinder is just a little to thin for the wholes in the wheel steering knuckles.
Another masterpiece of quality of Hornby¬†ūü§£

 

 


I was referring to the ball joint itself.  Remove those two cross head screws at the back in your photo.  Then you’ll probably find burrs stopping the ball joint housing closing up properly.  It should take some of the slop out of the ball joint.

 

I haven‚Äôt tried assembling the rest yet. ¬†Could you wrap cotton soaked in PVA round the cylinder to increase the diameter a little? ¬†It won‚Äôt be durable, but I guess we‚Äôre not going to be playing with the model very much ūüėČ

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Did that also, but the problem is not the ball joint itself. I even put some thin rubber piece in the bottom but thats not were the issue is. There is some little play there but the springs of the shock are so strong that the play is gone when its under the car
 

The real issue is the diameter of the cilinder, I tried different things like paper and tape but the only thing that really worked was copper plate which sticks (Sorry mentioned brass before) Ill see if I can upload a photo later today, 

 

 

 

 

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Its is, but it's much easier as thin styrene plate which i also tried, That kept going back in the original shape.
This you can cut, stick on, form in shape gently before applying the tiny plastic clamp

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Dinky thanks for all this great material. The diagrams and pics of your model are really helpful. I am excited that we picked up a few more builders to the thread.  welcome aboard @Mark_1984

 

Thanks for chiming in @Roy vd M. Your insights are always appreciated. Your Delage build is awe inspiring. 
 

I am working to clean the flash off the metal frames to get clean joints. Nothing too exciting but important work if I want to get the ride height corrected. More coming soon
 

 

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Your welcome, glad I can help. Its indeed very cool that some other builders joined.
Good idea to clean, everything fits so tight the smallest flash causes issues 

Looking forward to your updates

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Dinkey, Re shocks again, I stripped one down and found it only moves 3mm.

You have to remove the paint and file the outside of the slotted part of the bottom component so it slides without jamming. You should get almost 6mm of travel.

Rather than cutting the spring, cut a tiny piece of plastic 2mm wide and jam it into the top end of the slot.

Compress the spring and insert the pin below the plastic.

This reduces the shock length and should align the wheel arch and tyre when the front body is fitted. You can do the same with the rear shocks also.

 

I have new shocks in work which provide a lower spring rate with adjustable tension and adjustable ride height.

The shocks provided just don't look or feel right.

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@Fozz that sounds like a great plan. Do you have any WIP pics of the shock fix you did? Did you lower both the front and rear? also curious to hear more about the new shocks. Is it a full retooling or a spring swap?
 

 

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I didnt had any issues with paint thickness on the shocks. With the spring off it could go down completely.

Looking forward to your pics Fozz

 

 

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I produced a 3D cad modelling of the parts and added a central screw into a modified bottom part. Another part added at the top of the spring.

This is threaded to adjust the top outer part up or down to set the shock length. It's 61mm top/bottom fixing and it needs to be 58/59mm.

The inner screw adjusts the spring tension.

I had the cost back today to remake the parts by CNC machiring. 

It's about £100 each on two off but £50 each on 10 off!

 

The other solution is to increase the depth of the original top part to increase the travel of the shock and to add a 2mm piece of plastic at the top of the slot above the pin. The spring needs to be weaker. These are about £12 each, possibly less in quantity.

 

 The rear shocks also need doing, but I think the same new spring can be used and plastic plug for the slot.

 

It is quite an investment but considering the kit cost and time, it might be worthwhile.

I will post pics shortly.

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