Dinky Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 I used Zero paints for the rubber hoses, it works fine and is drying completely but its easy damaged Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Paints based on Lacquers...Enamels...Solvents etc. will not adhere to rubber...they are designed for 'stable' substrates...which rubber is most definitely not!...and...whilst they may dry...they will be very easily damaged/removed. You could try soaking the rubber in IPA (Alcahol)...which will remove some of the oil...then use fabric paint...which is in reality a modified dye...but is designed to move with the substrate...and withstand wear and washing. Latex Urethane Paint (modified acrylic) is most commonly used for vinyl/leather/rubber. Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted April 11, 2021 Author Share Posted April 11, 2021 Here is a pic of what I'm trying to create. The second pic is from Paul Koo's DVD of the actual model. In addition to recreating the look I may need to fill the gap between the parts. I have not assembled the air box and intakes yet to see how much a gap there is on my kit. I welcome any thoughts to tackling this one Thank you for the paint advice Ron! Dinky I would try Zero paints but I do not have an airbrush yet and zero paints can be tricky to source in the states. One day I'll get one... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Give me the dimensions of it...a sketch with all of them on...and I will have a play Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 Hey Rich, when you are ready for an airbrush and want some Zero Paint you can get it from Hobby World USA. This is where I have purchased all my Zero paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted April 13, 2021 Author Share Posted April 13, 2021 Thanks Ron! Give me a few days to mock the parts up and measure. I want to see if there is a meaningful gap on my kit thanks for the tip Wayne. I forgot about Hobbyworld. Good to have you back on the forum! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 I dont believe the gap is so big on mine. Maybe im wrong, Ill get you a picture today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted April 16, 2021 Author Share Posted April 16, 2021 Any pictures would be great. Apologies Ron have gotten delayed on mocking things up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 Sorry, here they are. There is some space indeed 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 How did you sorted the problem with the rear engine / trans mount? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_1984 Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 I found that the engine wasn't located centrally on mine. It seems that the screws holes are mis-placed. These are the screws H the screw the engine to the cast rear chassis/frame, DCF-05. I fitted the frame to the cockpit, then tried the engine and it looked crooked. I ground out the hole in the chassis and it looked like the engine was going to fit much better and the exhaust & and intake misalignment looked like it was going to improve as well. Unfortunately the model got put away because of space issues, and I haven't finished fixing the engine to confirm that that was the problem. However, I'm fairly confident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 I had exactly the same, and im pretty sure they all have that same problem. Ended up making a slotted hole on 1 side, dont remember which side it was. Also made a tiny spacer between the frame and engine. the two holes have a small edge were the engine part goes in, one I filled till the edge so that the egine was straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 (edited) If you look at the bottom engine part it looks like one side is a bit shorter as the other what causes the engine to tilt a little. One of these two I filled till the edge Edited April 18, 2021 by Dinky 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 1 hour ago, Mark_1984 said: I found that the engine wasn't located centrally on mine. It seems that the screws holes are mis-placed. These are the screws H the screw the engine to the cast rear chassis/frame, DCF-05. Mark just to be sure, the engine is pointing slightly to the left front of the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_1984 Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 1 hour ago, Dinky said: Mark just to be sure, the engine is pointing slightly to the left front of the car? Let me dig out my model. I’ll take some pictures. It was a while ago! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Dinky that's not too bad a gap, especially when compared to the Koo example. I will get my pics posted shortly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Here are a few pics of the engine with a ruler to give folks a sense of scale. Nothing is permanently attached and there is a little play in the air boxes in terms of rotation. I'm thinking about super cluing wire rings to the plastic part and wrap in shrink warp to create the effect. Would welcome any additional thoughts from others out there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 (edited) Now you see good that the engine is not straight in the chassis, When I was checking the pictures on Paul Koo's dvd last week I noticed that on his almost completed model the screws in the bottom are gone. He might have removed them to align the engine. I never thougt about the hoses otherwise I would have tried making them also with some metal and shrink tube Edited April 25, 2021 by Dinky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 A little bit more progress. I have started to build up the rear frame. The fuel tank and radiators have been added. I have picked up some wire and shrink tube to experiment with to see if I can replicate the boot for the air intake. I have not tinkered with the alignment of the engine yet. I would like to test fit the muffler first before I adjust the right/left angle. I have been working on the front frame also - specifically getting all the plastic parts painted. I would like to get the model back on its wheels so I can fix the ride height. Wayne's comments earlier were right, as more assemblies pile on the car does get heavier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 Dinky I did not notice the lack of screws in the Koo DVD. That is a great observation. I bet he glued the engine in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel Smith Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 Model railway / railroad suppliers are usually good for supplies of small screws, nuts and bolts etc. Plus model engineering suppliers. Sometimes we have to think a bit laterally and look outside our own immediate hobby interest to get bits and pieces like these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share Posted May 8, 2021 On 4/18/2021 at 12:43 PM, Dinky said: If you look at the bottom engine part it looks like one side is a bit shorter as the other what causes the engine to tilt a little. One of these two I filled till the edge I just did this fix and my engine is straight. You are correct they did not mold the screw holes in the bottom of the engine in a straight line so it introduces a twist. I will fill in the offending hold and redrill a hole. I am going to mount the engine based on the shorter distance as I seem to get a better fit with the air box. @Noel Smith thank you for the tip! That is helpful and a great source for screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted May 12, 2021 Author Share Posted May 12, 2021 Progress I was successful in straightening the engine on the frame! I filed the longer screw post down to bring it flat with the pan, filed away the edge that rings the metal frame and filled the hole in with plastic rod. After positioning the engine on the frame I drilled a new hold to firmly secure the engine. Everything looked good initially until I checked the height. The engine was too high and caused the air intakes to split. If I tilted the engine then there was no issue - the parts fit perfectly. I spent some time tinkering with it before going to bed. With a fresh set of eyes I realized the problem. The air box parts are secured to the oil tank and I didn't bother adding the bottom of the oil tank to the assembly (circle in the third pic). The bottom is molded to push the engine down to the proper angle so everything fits air box and exhaust. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 The build isn't dead, just moving very slowly... I have completed the front frame. For the front radiator I brushed the part with black acrylic paint and then buffed it with a q tip to leave black pain in the recesses. I decided not to do it on the side radiators as the recessed areas were quite large and I didn't care for the look when I tested it. I believe those side radiators will be completely invisible when the body work in put in. Gluing the rubber seal to the trunk was a little tricky as the fit was loose. It was a little too big for the plastic. I was able to hide the slack in the curves. Fitting the rubber hoses was a little tricky. As @Dinky pointed out in a earlier post there are two ways to fit the hoses. In the Paul Koo DVD he suggested cutting the heads off so they can attach to the back of the radiators. The kit pieces were designed to attached to the side, which is technically not correct per the DVD. Based on Dinky's advice I decided not to cut the hoses. As they are molded out of the box they correctly thread around the frame. By modifying them I was worried that they would either not weave through properly or break off as I was adjusting the fit. I decided not to paint the rubber parts given my previous issues with the paint not drying. @silver911 offered some great advice about soaking in ISO and using fabric paint. I will file that away for later use. A final top down shot. I have left the suspension off as it is easier to attach the frame to the body without them in place. I continue to work on the rear frame. I'm struggling a bit to find the right kind of shrink tube for the air box. The kit part has a diameter of 15 mm so I need a bigger diameter shrink tube than I currently have. I have found some tubing that is the right size but seems to take too much heat to shrink (it's a little too thick). I will continue to search before I perhaps pivot and just use the kit piece as is. Stay tuned... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 (edited) Hey Rich, good too see you making progress! The side radiators are much more visible on the completed model as the middle one. https://imgbb.com/S32CfJw It looks like you glued the rubber on top of the luggage box? You should put it around the box from the bottom up and glue the under side. This way your bonnet might not close. Edited June 27, 2021 by Dinky Link added Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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