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Pocher Huracan


rjfk2002

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Thanks. Those are the offending lines I was thinking about... is that the plastruct  coated wire? I may have that in my stash somewhere. I will look up the dimensions you provided in your earlier post for the tubes. This is a really brilliant solution 

 

Pocher added lots of radiator and engine plumbing to the Huracan kit that was largely missing from the Aventador. The only issue is it doesn’t fit as Dinky has shown. The pegs and holes are wildly different in size.

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1 hour ago, rjfk2002 said:

Pocher added lots of radiator and engine plumbing to the Huracan kit that was largely missing from the Aventador. The only issue is it doesn’t fit as Dinky has shown. The pegs and holes are wildly different in size.

The Pocher Disease has spread to Hornby. One team of design guys not talking to the next...:mental:

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On 20/02/2021 at 17:48, rjfk2002 said:

RC shocks are an interesting idea Ron!

 

@Fozz thanks for the spring info. I will look into those for the front shock and see if they work for the rear. I would like to try your suggestion on shortening the travel on the shock by blocking the channel before I cut anything. 
 

agreed Wayne. I will add as much of the body work and plastic parts s possible before I make any final adjustments. This was a preliminary test to see how far off it was to start. And it’s far of....

 

 

 

 

You're welcome. I had spare springs so tried them on the rear.

I found the rear springs are longer and much thinner wire than the front.

My new springs were not quite stiff enough, so I put the originals back in, they are about right but you still need the plug to lower it.

The size is set to how much you want to lower the ride height by.

Your rear pic looks much higher than I expected.

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10 minutes ago, Fozz said:

I have fitted the rear body. You have to spread the side to pass over the rear windows. It's on finally but the side screw stripped.

Any one know how to repair an M2.6 thread?

If the material is metal take it as is and re-tap as M3. If it is plastic drill out quite large, glue in a round, carefully redrill this. Or fill up with 2k epoxie and redrill. You might even epoxie the screw in place. Or epoxie a threaded rod in place and secure the part with a nut.

 

Many more ways possible.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I would retap as M3 as Schwartz says. There should not be much tension on the sides when you cut a small part away just below the small window. The skirts will keep the sides or the rear body in place.

 

Mine is done, the last mod I did was adding some small magnets in the center caps of the wheels in case they ever need to come off again.

 

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Engine Check-In

 

I have the engine largely built up. Apologies for the poor pic. I will need to snap some better ones. The engine is sprayed Tamiya Silver Leaf and the covers are Krylon Matt Black. All of this painting was done back in August/September before the cold set in.  I am currently cleaning up a bunch of parts and getting them ready to prime and paint in the spring. I will temporarily add the engine to the frame along with the doors and hood before attempting to fix the ride height. I still plan to replace the kit springs up front and will acquire some plastic tubing as @Dinky suggested earlier in the thread. 

 

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Thanks gents. It is supposed to warm up a bit so I may try to spray a few more engine parts this week.

 

@Dinky you previously mentioned cutting the edge off the air filter box pipes. I am trying to figure out where the potential interference may be. Is it the area I circled in blue below - the intake scoop that is part of the window trim (part O-08 on step 26)?

 

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On 02/03/2021 at 21:53, Dinky said:

I would retap as M3 as Schwartz says. There should not be much tension on the sides when you cut a small part away just below the small window. The skirts will keep the sides or the rear body in place.

 

Mine is done, the last mod I did was adding some small magnets in the center caps of the wheels in case they ever need to come off again.

 

The problem I found was fitting the rear body.

it snags on the window trim bottom edge, so from the rear, put your thumbs into the wheel arches and pull outwards to slip the front edge over the window trims and locate the top tags at the same time.

It helps if both door sills are loose.

Press down on the plastic deck to make sure it snaps under the window trim. This will take the tension off the rear body.

 

Nice idea fitting mags to the centre caps.

 

I managed to reclaim the thread using a fresh screw and run it full depth. 

If that does not work, you can helicoil the hole (Bolhoff fasteners) which needs a 2.6 hole and helicoil tap for an M2.5 helicoil. 

The kit is expensive but it does work.

 

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On 07/03/2021 at 22:19, rjfk2002 said:

Engine Check-In

 

I have the engine largely built up. Apologies for the poor pic. I will need to snap some better ones. The engine is sprayed Tamiya Silver Leaf and the covers are Krylon Matt Black. All of this painting was done back in August/September before the cold set in.  I am currently cleaning up a bunch of parts and getting them ready to prime and paint in the spring. I will temporarily add the engine to the frame along with the doors and hood before attempting to fix the ride height. I still plan to replace the kit springs up front and will acquire some plastic tubing as @Dinky suggested earlier in the thread. 

 

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Nice paint job. 

I wish I had done more on part painting but sadly I don't have an air brush or experience yet. Most of the parts are unseen so not critical but it would have been a better job.

Hardest part is finding the right colour.  There is little reference to advise what colour they should be and a modelling paint equivalent.

Airfix seem to have mastered it.

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I took 2-3mm off these air inlets, they push in the inside body up. When the body is one you can push it against the body but its almost not possible to remove the back anymore

 

ps Check this 

 

 

2021-03-12-17-56-15-Start.jpg

Edited by Dinky
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45 minutes ago, Fozz said:

This will take the tension off the rear body.

Most of the tension on mine came from the small area in the red circle, its real easy to remove a small part with the dremel

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Thanks Fozz. All of this is done with rattle cans. I aim to acquire an air brush soon but first need to find the space for one.

 

thanks Dinky.  I will take a careful look at everything, maybe try to mock it up and then trim. I want to be careful with the body panels as the tabs on the rear body make me nervous about scratches and chipping. 

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Yeah just try, maybe it works for you fine without cutting. Just push them against each other.

To make sure you get the least damage make sure all metal burrs are removed, especially on the inside of the body parts that are close to each other. And for protection put tape when you fit it. Maybe I'm over protecting but I find it very helpful.  As soon it get stuck somewhere you see the tape roll up

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  • 4 weeks later...

I took mine out of the display case to lower the rear slightly, when I noticed that the rear window came loose from the double-sided sticky tape.

You might want to look at a better alternative before using it.

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Sorry for the delayed response. I have done some work on the car and hit a snag with some technology that delayed my update...

 

I have been starting to assembly the rear bits of the car to give it some additional weight before I tinker with the shocks. First up is the engine which has now been affixed to the frame. I added the torsion bar and the drive shafts. In the second pic I have started to add the hoses. They are rubber parts which I painted with Tamiya spray silver. The paint unfortunately didn't take well to the rubber and remains sticky to the touch. In Paul Koo's DVD he mentions that Duplicolor paints will adhere to the rubber. I am debating if I buy some to spray the remaining hoses (particularly the radiator lines in front) or if I skip the expense as the lines will never be visible on the final build. 

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I am working to assemble the the air manifold and intake ducts now. I would like to recreate convoluted boot for the intakes so I need to experiment with some copper wire and shrink tube. We had a stretch of warm weather so I painted most of the plastic parts for the front and rear frames. I am hoping to have a lot more progress to share in the coming weeks!

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