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England Expects... or not... - 242 squadron Hurricane Mk1


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So I guess I'm cutting it a bit fine with the timing on this one, but what the heck.

 

Either way I've got mostly everything I need to get going on this build now, aside from the PE parts that I'm on the fence over.

 

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In this case I'm going to be working on P2831 LE-K, as flown by Sub/Lt. Richard John 'Dickie' Cork RN DSO DSC during August 1940. As you can probably guess from the title I did originally consider LE-T complete with the actual flag signal decals but the fact that no-one seems to know what aircraft that even was kind of put me off it.

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Nice to have you along Pinky, don't worry, there's still more than a month and a half to go till the end of the Group Build :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

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8 hours ago, PinkThorn242 said:

So I guess I'm cutting it a bit fine with the timing on this one, but what the heck.

 

Either way I've got mostly everything I need to get going on this build now, aside from the PE parts that I'm on the fence over.

 

spacer.png

 

In this case I'm going to be working on P2831 LE-K, as flown by Sub/Lt. Richard John 'Dickie' Cork RN DSO DSC during August 1940. As you can probably guess from the title I did originally consider LE-T complete with the actual flag signal decals but the fact that no-one seems to know what aircraft that even was kind of put me off it.

I had this same conversation in 2015 for the 75th Anniversary GB.

 

Tony Walton  @tonywalton came up with the following:-

 

Tony Walton 06/10/2015

Hi 85sqn and Grey Beema,

Well from my research I conclude that P2884 LE+V was the one with the Nelson signal.  The photo with the flags matches a B camouflage scheme with the even serial, this aircraft seems to be his regular a/c as he flew it more often than any other. I don't mind if you model it, but here is a bit more info - in the photo it had a rotol (blunt) spinner and no boot kicking Hitler motif on the nose (I remember reading many moons ago that this wasn't applied until September 1940).

 

This is is what I came up with..

 

49685771698_5a10ea0c93_c.jpg

 

Hope this helps..

 

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36 minutes ago, Grey Beema said:

I had this same conversation in 2015 for the 75th Anniversary GB.

 

Tony Walton  @tonywalton came up with the following:-

 

Tony Walton 06/10/2015

Hi 85sqn and Grey Beema,

Well from my research I conclude that P2884 LE+V was the one with the Nelson signal.  The photo with the flags matches a B camouflage scheme with the even serial, this aircraft seems to be his regular a/c as he flew it more often than any other. I don't mind if you model it, but here is a bit more info - in the photo it had a rotol (blunt) spinner and no boot kicking Hitler motif on the nose (I remember reading many moons ago that this wasn't applied until September 1940).

 

This is is what I came up with..

 

49685771698_5a10ea0c93_c.jpg

 

Hope this helps..

 

 

OK, so might make another Big Yellow run for a set of B Masks and some code sheets then if I still want to do that airframe. 😀

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OK, update. Put an order in for the PE frets (Eduard exterior + cockpit set and seatbelts).

 

Not ordered the alternative masks and decals yet since still um-ing and ah-ing over which one to build.

 

I've also started the prep work, removing the cast details from the instrument panel and radiators per the instructions.

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I'm a little bit unsure about removing stuff like the compass, rudder pedals and gunsight right now because I'm not sure I have the tools to do the job without breaking the parts (only got a hobby knife and side cutters when it feels like I need a saw to do it safely).

Edited by PinkThorn242
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So the surgery to remove the compass and rudder pedals was... less than successful. Some minor repair work was needed on the A-frame, but thankfully they're not going to be seen all that much.

 

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Need to cut the adjustment lever off the seat and not sure I'm going to do the gunsight surgery and just use the kit part as-is instead.

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Hi,

 

When you say "side cutters" I think of a pair of pliers with wire cutters on the side - you sound like you need a decent pair of sprue cutters, unless that was what you meant?  I think mine only cost about £6 and they work well enough for me. Even then there are some sprues that just defy getting in without causing damage - I wish the manufacturers would think a little harder about where they put the attachment points, althought they will probably say that they had no choice if they wanted to mould that particular shape - it was easier when I started modelling as the parts were nowhere near true scale and so were a lot more robust.  Ah- the joys of modelling!

 

Good luck with the build.

 

Pete

Edited by PeterB
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I use these cutters for 1/72 kits. What I do is to just nip away at the sprue gates, instead of doing it in one move. 

 

50346914122_ba5d47001b_o.jpg

 

 

If the part is quite small or thin, I use this. It's a piece of broken CMK saw blade in a pin vice.

 

26937529567_c72062d3a0_o.jpg

 

 

 

 

Chris

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2 hours ago, PinkThorn242 said:

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This is what I was referring to.

Sorry, seems we were at cross purposes as they say.

 

They are indeed what I call sprue cutters and should work but as Chris said sometimes you have to "nibble" away at the big ones. Once or twice I found that cutting the sprue a bit away from the part worked as it then gave me a clear run at it with the cutters - sometimes the sprues get in the way. I have also found a razor saw useful, though mine are the old fashioned big blades, some of the small PE ones look like they might be better for some jobs, but the big ones have their uses. I guess modellers build up a collection of tools over the years - when I started all I had was a Stanley knife and some old nail clippers.

 

Good luck

 

Pete

 

Pete

Edited by PeterB
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Yeah, I brought a tiny razor saw for doing the modifications but the teeth were coarse enough to just get stuck. Oh well.

Edited by PinkThorn242
...what is my autocorrect playing at?
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Hi,

 

I have never bought any myself but I seem to remember at least one make of the etched ones (Airwaves?) came with 3 or 4 different blades. They need to be fairly fine in my experience, but if you are cutting resin (with the usual precautions) sometimes a bit coarser works better as it does not clog up as easily.

 

Pete

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17 hours ago, PeterB said:

Sorry, seems we were at cross purposes as they say.

 

They are indeed what I call sprue cutters and should work but as Chris said sometimes you have to "nibble" away at the big ones. Once or twice I found that cutting the sprue a bit away from the part worked as it then gave me a clear run at it with the cutters - sometimes the sprues get in the way. I have also found a razor saw useful, though mine are the old fashioned big blades, some of the small PE ones look like they might be better for some jobs, but the big ones have their uses. I guess modellers build up a collection of tools over the years - when I started all I had was a Stanley knife and some old nail clippers.

 

Pete

 

Yes, I start nipping away from the part, closer to the sprue tree. When the part is free, I use the nippers to nibble away at the sprue gate nib, then cut the last bit away with a sharp Xacto No. 11 blade. I keep one blade and handle just for that purpose, so the blade stays sharp.

 

Pete, when I started building models, way back in the late 60's, I had these tools. I still have them.

 

42373714211_da11a776de_c.jpg

 

 

 

Chris

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OK, so fitting the photo etch has started.

 

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Building the seat proved a bit more challenging as the flaps seemed more willing to stick to my fingers than to each other. So that's been put to one side before I end up launching it across the room and ragequitting.

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So I dropped one of the etched rudder pedals and can't find it and broke the compass housing.

 

I may end up dropping this from the GB for the sake of my sanity as time gets tighter.

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I wouldn't give up just yet Pinky, granted you didn't get off to the best start, but hopefully you're getting your bad luck out of the way early :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

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Just now, Stew Dapple said:

I wouldn't give up just yet Pinky, granted you didn't get off to the best start, but hopefully you're getting your bad luck out of the way early :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

Plus at least re-ordering the cockpit fret is cheap.

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Positive thinking! It is, apparently, the key to success :D Have a think about it, and bear in mind most of the cockpit gubbins will not be seen when the fuselage is closed up...

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

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OK, so I let the build sit fallow for a while to get the stress back down. A process that apparently involved feeding costume helmets to the 3D printer but I guess that's what I get for juggling multiple creative hobbies.

 

Either way, got a new cockpit fret ordered along with a set of B-scheme masks and the sheets I need to make my own squadron codes (30" MSG) and serial numbers. So I guess P2884 LE+V is on now at least until the replacement parts fall victim to my fists of ham and fingers of butter.

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OK, finger has been pulled out and assembly has started.

 

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Need to get some more Loctite gel to put the etched bits in since my normal superglue's just a bit too thin and imprecise.

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Good start mate, I always use the gel superglue, gives a little more manoeuvering time and I'm less likely to splash it everywere :) 

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On 25/09/2020 at 09:34, PinkThorn242 said:

the sheets I need to make my own squadron codes (30" MSG)

 

the only clear shot of a 242 Sq Bob plane I could find showing the codes.  

50390615453_f2d5ee38bc_b.jpg242 Squadron 11 by Сергей Кривицкий, on Flickr

 

the fuselage roundel in 35 inch diameter.  The codes are basically the same height, so I would presume they are 36 inch high(3 feet) 

You have the LE in the X48186 set,  which should be 36 inch, and you have a 36 inch A in the kit decals (LK-A) which if it's a match, just take the bar out, and invert.

 

I did warn that Xtradecal are , erm, not great.   

Today i discovered the 24 inch high part of 1/48th codes set are their 1/72nd 36 inch set, as the stoke width is too narrow.  Does mean I now have 36 inch 72nd letters though.

 

HTH

 

 

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42 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:

 

the only clear shot of a 242 Sq Bob plane I could find showing the codes.  

50390615453_f2d5ee38bc_b.jpg242 Squadron 11 by Сергей Кривицкий, on Flickr

 

the fuselage roundel in 35 inch diameter.  The codes are basically the same height, so I would presume they are 36 inch high(3 feet) 

You have the LE in the X48186 set,  which should be 36 inch, and you have a 36 inch A in the kit decals (LK-A) which if it's a match, just take the bar out, and invert.

 

I did warn that Xtradecal are , erm, not great.   

Today i discovered the 24 inch high part of 1/48th codes set are their 1/72nd 36 inch set, as the stoke width is too narrow.  Does mean I now have 36 inch 72nd letters though.

 

HTH

 

 

...In that case the LE code in the Xtradecal set is wrong since it works out to 30 inches. Which is how I got to ordering that raw codes sheet. Bleh.

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48 minutes ago, PinkThorn242 said:

...In that case the LE code in the Xtradecal set is wrong since it works out to 30 inches. Which is how I got to ordering that raw codes sheet. Bleh.

 

I'd double check, as from what I can see,  they look the same size as the roundels

X48146_4.jpg?t=

 

36 inch in 1/48th is 3/4 of an inch,  or 19mm.   30 inch in 1/48th  are 5/8ths inch or  about 16 mm high for comparison.

 

Now gone, there was a thread on the creation of this sheet, started by the decal designer, where i had to draw lines on a photo for him to understand the port side F on UF-S had a longer stroke.... 

No, I don't have the sheet, I should have asked Hannants for complimentary copy for helping though.

 

A small aside,  there is a photo of a LE-T about, V7203,

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235049865-fabric-wing-hurricane-v7203/

 

and this post

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235005804-hurricane-p3886-uniqe-fabric-wing/&do=findComment&comment=3737491

 

which confirms V7203 had a fabric wing, so can'r be built from the Airfix 1/48th kit, but maybe of interest.

 

HTH

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