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Really coming along with those figures nice flesh tones.  👍

 

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beefy

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31 minutes ago, Jasper dog said:

 

I'll have another go at brush painting Tamiya....stupid, stupid, stupid!

 


Get the Tamiya branded retarder mate, it transforms Tamiya acrylic paint for brushing, not to the standard as Vallejo from the bottle but it really does help. 

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Cheers guys, 

 

A bit of research on the unit that I'm portraying, the 634 Tank Destroyer Battalion.

 

Unit badge warn on the left arm of the jacket. 

 

 

634 TD Bn

 

 

 

Passion models were nice enough to provide these in the decal set :frantic:  Decals No 11 on the sheet 

 

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Next question for the experts, rank badges on the Tank Destroyer itself ? 

 

Who would of been the Technical rank holder? I have a set of stripes with "T" within the badge ? 

I would assume the radio op would of been a Tech trade but what about the rest of the crew - standard or T? 

 

Decal No 3 here 

 

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But you have inspired me to purchase a copy of David Parkers crew school....yes I'm entering the world of figure painting...why the hell not methinks 😉👍

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Andy J said:

But you have inspired me to purchase a copy of David Parkers crew school....yes I'm entering the world of figure painting...why the hell not methinks 😉👍

 

 

 

 

Good Lad :thumbsup:

 

Its not often that I inspire anyone so I'll take that as a win ;)

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1 minute ago, Dads203 said:

 

 

Good Lad :thumbsup:

Well I want to start adding Fritz to my German armour and can't wait to add Brad to a Sherman 😄👍

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Moving onto the make of break bit now :o

 

Stand by for possibly some head sculpt stripping for when I balls tis right up. 

 

Weapon of choice for flesh tones. 

 

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The head is masked up with Bluetak, I want only the tin layer of primer on the face as not to clog the detail - Primer is very important for the face painting stage chaps,

It holds the paint and shouldn't disturb the multiple layers that are going to be manipulated over the base coat of flesh paint. If you don't use primer then be prepared for the base layer to flake off 

or get damaged.  I always paint the headgear first and in this instance I've used a Tamiya Lacquer paint as the pigments are really fine and again its to stop the details being clogged up. 

 

You really want to preserve every last bit of detail as it makes it easier to paint, that another reason for using good quality headsculpts as it really does make a difference in the final product 

and the ease to produce a convincing finish. 

 

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The Olive green will get darker with the weathering. next step is to get the base flesh tone on the face and then add the dark shadow.

 

More to follow 

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Face is base coated, slightly diluted flesh base evenly painted in the areas of his grid. 

 

Some small areas have had a thinned application of Flesh Shadow at this point. eye sockets, under the chin and jaw line, mouth area, all very subtle 

at this point. this need to dry off for 20-30mins before we start to play with various lighter tones and build them up.  I could start on the detail painting of the crew helmet 

but that's just pushing it - If I need to strip it then a waisted effort :o 

 

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White star on glacis is outstanding!!! Stencil or dry transfer? anyway fantastic job👍👍

Ciao

Filippo

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1 minute ago, Phil1960 said:

White star on glacis is outstanding!!! Stencil or dry transfer? anyway fantastic job👍👍

Ciao

Filippo

 

 

Kit decal Filippo, no issues using Tamiya decals they went down very well.

But the secret is to use this stuff :-

 

 

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It really tames the Tamiya decals very well. 

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Next step with the face.

 

Adding the lighter tones over the darker base coat .

 

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Tried to photograph the consistency of the paint here - not very well though 🙂 its all about building lots of layers that have been precisely added to the facial areas 

 

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And the progress so far, it's lightening up now, the headsculpt character is now starting to show through now, we are about 50% through the process so far. 

 

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This needs a chance to dry off and then I'll continue to add highlights. 

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It's looking good Dan, but the fun bit is yet to come.....the eyeballs.:yikes:.

 

John.

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2 hours ago, Dads203 said:

Next step with the face.

 

Adding the lighter tones over the darker base coat .

 

P1090290

 

 

Tried to photograph the consistency of the paint here - not very well though 🙂 its all about building lots of layers that have been precisely added to the facial areas 

 

P1090291

 

And the progress so far, it's lightening up now, the headsculpt character is now starting to show through now, we are about 50% through the process so far. 

 

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This needs a chance to dry off and then I'll continue to add highlights. 

Hi Dan decided to invest a few quid in my figure painting adventure and I reckon this set will kick me off nicely 🙂👍

 

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Not all for figure painting i know but plenty to play with for the time being 🙂

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Nice haul Andy :o.

 

So my face painting skills are not as good as I wanted really, its not finished yet but it needs more work 

on the blending and feathering in of the tones, its a step away from looking to chalky, probably as a result of 

me over working the paint :o   Skills fade strikes again and the fact that I started painting up the helmet !! 

 

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I'm no expert at figure painting Dan, but one of the things that I learned from some book or other, was to start light, and work the flesh with darker tones. But seeing as you are where you are, my suggestion is to use some light highlights on the cheek bones, ridge of the nose and the knuckles.

 

John.

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Stripped and starting again chaps, it all went a bit south so 

thought it best to re-do the head :o

 

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At least the paint is easy to remove Dan and if you are not happy with the results then I think you're doing the right thing 🙂👍

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Sorry for the questions Dan but I want to buy a couple of quality figures to paint and I'm thinking about Alpine or are there cheaper options out there 🤔

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The new Tamiya figures are ideal, I take it that you are looking at the German crews ? Or the American sets.

I'd cut your teeth on those and my be swap the heads for Hornet. The new sets are 3D scanned and probably the best you can get in plastic.

 

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if you are going full metal jacket then Alpine, they are stunning and well worth the cash matey :frantic:

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Thanks Dan I think I'll try out the Tamiya figures mate but why would you change the heads 🤔 

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12 minutes ago, Andy J said:

Thanks Dan I think I'll try out the Tamiya figures mate but why would you change the heads 🤔 


Resin reigns supreme mate, the better definition the easier to paint fella. 

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1 minute ago, Dads203 said:


Resin reigns supreme mate, the better definition the easier to paint fella. 

He's right you know;)

Dan - You are being too hard on yourself - I thought that figure/head  was top notch!

Rob

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