1Coroner Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 I'm planning on modding the Monogram 1/8 E-type to match the car I owned in the 1970,s. Well, here we go. My styrene sheet is on the way so it's time to start hacking into the bulkhead. The arrows point to the molded wiper motor, heater flow valve, a cover panel and what is supposed to represent a bonnet latch that I'll remove. I'll need to make a pocket for the wiper motor that I will build from scratch. The solid lines show where the footwells need to be modified. Will need to fabricate the rear engine stabilizer bracket as well. Should keep me busy for a while! 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 Interesting build. If you see a shadow behind you, don’t worry. It is me following you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 Also following. That kit is one I wanted in my younger days, but my childhood allowance would not support it. As an adult I wanted a 1:1 version, but my income wouldn't support it either! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted September 10, 2020 Author Share Posted September 10, 2020 So I started dry-fitting some of the parts that make the under bonnet structures to see how accurate they are. Subframe supports 116 & 117, spacebar 118 and brace (for the radiator) 148 make up what the Jaguar parts book calls the "subframe". Part 44 and frame 46 make what Jag calls the "picture frame". 37 & 38 frame sides and 159 & 160 subframe braces make each "side member". The kit does not have a couple of the diagonal subframe braces. I expected to have to remake some of these structures, but I didn't realize how far off they are. I purchased a used Series 1 shop manual because I knew that it has a very good diagram of the front structures in the collision repair section. I copied it and blew it up by 2.9 to get and accurate under-lay for the kit parts. As you can see in the top-down image, the kit is WAY off. It place the bonnet hinges too far apart and too far forward. Similarly, in the side-view images, if I set the frame side up against the bulkhead toe panel, the front engine mount and interface with the picture frame are too far forward. If I line it up with the picture frame and engine mount it "crashes" through the bulkhead toe panel. So I thought maybe the kit isn't really 1/8 scale? Using the owner's manual diagram of the overall vehicle dimensions, it turns out to be quite accurate in that regard. What to do? I never planned use the 4 goofy pins that the kit uses to mount the engine, so I had always planned to remake that part of the side members. I don't want to remake the toe box parts of the bulkhead, so I am going to have to compromise a bit on accuracy. I need to step back a bit and have a deep think! 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 Hello and 1Coroner. SUPER start. Look forward to this build very much. SUPERB start 1966 is significant to ME so I look forward to your AMAZING choice of vehicle. :wu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 I dry-fitted the front subframe to the bonnet "hinges" and placed a side frame in place to see how everything fit. The side frame was a perfect fit between the "picture frame" and the bulkhead toe panels so that lets me know that I can use it as a guide when I remake the side frames. Monogram/Revell just placed the bonnet pivot ahead of where it really is in the actual car, hence the alterations in the front subframe that I showed last time. I'm going to live with it. I also started reworking the bulkhead. I've started to create the sunk-in features and relocated the screen wiper motor pocket which was in the wrong place. I still have to make the cruciform features on the toe kick panels and do some bondo work. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 You can't tell too well in the right-hand image, but the plastic is not just out of focus. I was watching a youtube channel that I like and the host showed a special weighted holder for the Tamiya extra-thin cement. I thought "what idiot would be clumsy enough to knock over and spill half a bottle of glue on his model?" Well ...... now you know one. Recoverable, but stupid just the same. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted September 15, 2020 Author Share Posted September 15, 2020 Continuing to fill gaps and added the bulkhead-to-sill closing panels. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted September 15, 2020 Share Posted September 15, 2020 Great work going on here. I've bodgellated 5-6 of these big Revell kits over the past years. Always great fun. Here's a link to one I converted to a Cunningham race car a friend of mine actually owns. Some of my waffle might be useful? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted September 16, 2020 Author Share Posted September 16, 2020 Absolutely! Thanks so much for the link. You've given me a ton of ideas. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted September 16, 2020 Author Share Posted September 16, 2020 Added the cruciform stiffeners and the recessed stiffeners in the bulkhead. Softened the edges with automotive body filler and lots of work with riffler files and sanding sticks. The brass bristle brush is great for keeping the files clean. My car had ribs on the sump so I added them using model railroad corrugated siding from evergreen. Once the sump is all the same color I think it will look pretty convincing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 Looking good I'm going to follow this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 There's nothing like the first prime to show you where you still have work to do! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 I have a couple of thin steel plates and a huge selection of magnets which come in handy to fixture the E-type tub/bulkhead assembly. I temporarily assembled the kit parts to ascertain the correct location for the "picture frame" (part 44) and the "engine mounting posts" (part 36). I'm thinking about using a balsa block the fixture the mounting posts and clamping everything with more magnets. I'll also add small plastic pegs where each of the square and round tubes land on the bulkhead and picture frame for extra strength and to keep the parts in register when I apply the cement. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 Can anyone explain to me how to add an image where I want it, rather than the random placement that seems to happen when I insert image from URL? Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Not sure about hobbyphotohost, but with flickr you generate a bb code, copy that and you can paste it into your post. If you end the paragraph before putting in the code for the image it should go in a new line. Hope that works with your photo host too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted November 19, 2020 Author Share Posted November 19, 2020 Back working on the E-type. I made the balsa fixture to hold the engine mounting posts and then, with square and round stock, made the subframe stringers. Next I need to make the gusset plates and add the tiny bolts and capscrews. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 +Started making the blanking plates for the passenger-side bulkhead/footwell. The little bolt heads were made with the hex punch from UMM-USA. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted November 22, 2020 Author Share Posted November 22, 2020 Added the torsion bar anchor plates and motor mount plates. I'm experimenting with spru-goo to fill in the gaps between the subframe stringers and gusset plates and make it look like weld beads. I'm scratch building a steering rack since the kit never had one. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 Looking great. I think you ar3 am8ng for a very well detailed model. Right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Yes, I'm trying to make it as accurate a copy of my old car as possible. Here is the steering rack. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted November 24, 2020 Author Share Posted November 24, 2020 Front swaybar, also not included in the kit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted November 26, 2020 Author Share Posted November 26, 2020 Getting ready to make the motor mounts and rear engine stabilizer. Fortunately my real-world Panther uses a Jaguar engine, trans, brake booster and other parts so I can take measurements from it. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Coroner Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share Posted November 28, 2020 Added the front motor mount brackets, crankshaft cross-drill plugs and remade the distributor mount which was too low and at the wrong angle. Added the flywheel baffle plate in the bell housing and the oil pan drain plug. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 Following this with great interest! Given the level of detail you are adding, are you also going to tweak the front end? The general headlight area isn't quite right - the shape of the bezels is wrong, but there is also too big a gap between the bumper and the light bezel. I haven't got this far on my one, so haven't yet identified the best way to rectify it - e.g whether the problem is only the bezels (& thus whether reshaping them will solve everything), or whether the bumper & headlights actually need to be moved closer together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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