Mark's Workbench: 1/72 Arma Hobby Hawker Hurricane Re-boot

[AliGauld]

Hi Mark,

I usually use Krystal Klear to blend cockpit bits in.

Add more than you need and then just wipe away gently with a damp cotton bud.

I use the same trick with Mr. Surfacer on vertical to horizontal joins and dampen the cotton bud with Mr. Thinner.

 

Saves a lot of heartache.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

[2996 Victor]

9 hours ago, AliGauld said:

Hi Mark,

I usually use Krystal Klear to blend cockpit bits in.

Add more than you need and then just wipe away gently with a damp cotton bud.

I use the same trick with Mr. Surfacer on vertical to horizontal joins and dampen the cotton bud with Mr. Thinner.

 

Saves a lot of heartache.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

Thanks Alistair, I'll remember that for next time. The irony is that I've got a bottle of Krystal Clear!

 

Cheers,

Mark

[2996 Victor]

10 hours ago, AliGauld said:

Hi Mark,

I usually use Krystal Klear to blend cockpit bits in.

Add more than you need and then just wipe away gently with a damp cotton bud.

I use the same trick with Mr. Surfacer on vertical to horizontal joins and dampen the cotton bud with Mr. Thinner.

 

Saves a lot of heartache.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

Hi again, Alistair,

I meant to ask - do you use the Krystal Klear to attach the transparencies as well? I used CA this time, and it was a bit fraught given that I'm a total butter fingers

I've literally just found the Mr Surfacer and then Mr Thinner trick - not sure whose thread it was where I read it, maybe yours? It would have saved me enormous heartache on both the Spitfire VC and Tomahawk!

Cheers,

Mark

[AliGauld]

7 minutes ago, 2996 Victor said:

Hi again, Alistair,

I meant to ask - do you use the Krystal Klear to attach the transparencies as well? I used CA this time, and it was a bit fraught given that I'm a total butter fingers

I've literally just found the Mr Surfacer and then Mr Thinner trick - not sure whose thread it was where I read it, maybe yours? It would have saved me enormous heartache on both the Spitfire VC and Tomahawk!

Cheers,

Mark

Hi Mark,

The Mr. Surfacer Mr. Thinner trick wasn't mine I picked it up from a You tube video.

As to the canopy, It depends.

For normal canopies I either use Krystal Klear or Formula 560 depending on the fit and how strong I need the fit to be.

Sometimes I use G-S Hypo for a really strong bond and if you putting a side window in for example and you don't want any surplus showing on the inside then I'll put the part in and use Aqua Gloss Varnish in the same manner as Tamiya Extra Thin.

The beauty of that is if some does flow onto the inside visible surfaces it dries invisibly.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Cheers,

Alistair

[2996 Victor]

43 minutes ago, AliGauld said:

Hi Mark,

The Mr. Surfacer Mr. Thinner trick wasn't mine I picked it up from a You tube video.

As to the canopy, It depends.

For normal canopies I either use Krystal Klear or Formula 560 depending on the fit and how strong I need the fit to be.

Sometimes I use G-S Hypo for a really strong bond and if you putting a side window in for example and you don't want any surplus showing on the inside then I'll put the part in and use Aqua Gloss Varnish in the same manner as Tamiya Extra Thin.

The beauty of that is if some does flow onto the inside visible surfaces it dries invisibly.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Cheers,

Alistair

That's brilliant, Alistair, thank you! I'll be online shopping again later for some of each of those

 

Cheers,

Mark

[AliGauld]

Sorry to have hit you in the wallet again.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

[2996 Victor]

Quick update: about a dozen coats of Mr Dissolved Putty have been dibbed and dobbed onto the quarter-light frame to fuselage seam, and I'm hoping that'll do it!

http://

 

I'm hoping to be able to clean up using the "Mr Thinner-on-a-cotton-bud" trick, and to that end I've dunked a scrap piece of clear sprue in said thinner to see what transpires. Apparently, not much, which is encouraging. Hopefully, if I'm a bit careful (!) and don't get the thinner everywhere, it might work out okay 🤞

 

Thanks for looking in - hopefully, there'll be more tangible progress soon!

[AliGauld]

21 minutes ago, 2996 Victor said:

Quick update: about a dozen coats of Mr Dissolved Putty have been dibbed and dobbed onto the quarter-light frame to fuselage seam, and I'm hoping that'll do it!

 

 

I'm hoping to be able to clean up using the "Mr Thinner-on-a-cotton-bud" trick, and to that end I've dunked a scrap piece of clear sprue in said thinner to see what transpires. Apparently, not much, which is encouraging. Hopefully, if I'm a bit careful (!) and don't get the thinner everywhere, it might work out okay 🤞

 

Thanks for looking in - hopefully, there'll be more tangible progress soon!

Nice work Mark.

Aye don't fling the Mr. Thinner about it doesn't do much good. 

That's one of those ask me how I know jobs.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

[2996 Victor]

19 minutes ago, AliGauld said:

Nice work Mark.

Aye don't fling the Mr. Thinner about it doesn't do much good. 

That's one of those ask me how I know jobs.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

Thanks, Alistair  I'll be careful with the thinner, too.....

 

Cheers,

Mark

[Troy Smith]

On 05/04/2021 at 09:12, 2996 Victor said:

do you use the Krystal Klear to attach the transparencies as well?

Krystal Kleer AFAIK is posh PVA.

 

For the few canopies I have attached I used Wudcare 5 Minute fast grab PVA, 

eg https://www.woodshopdirect.co.uk/exterior-wood-glues/wudcare-superfast-pva-waterproof-adhesive/

 

it's a for woodworking,  which I why I have it,  but it's great.  You can clean up and add it with paint brush.   And, as it's not for modellers,  it's not sold in little pots  

 

 

[2996 Victor]

38 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:

Krystal Kleer AFAIK is posh PVA.

 

For the few canopies I have attached I used Wudcare 5 Minute fast grab PVA, 

eg https://www.woodshopdirect.co.uk/exterior-wood-glues/wudcare-superfast-pva-waterproof-adhesive/

 

it's a for woodworking,  which I why I have it,  but it's great.  You can clean up and add it with paint brush.   And, as it's not for modellers,  it's not sold in little pots  

 

 

Thanks, Troy, that sounds like good stuff! PVA normally takes an age to cure.

I think you're right about Krystal Kleer being posh PVA

Cheers,

Mark

[Troy Smith]

14 minutes ago, 2996 Victor said:

PVA normally takes an age to cure.

It's fast grab, but still needs to cure for a while. 

 

19 minutes ago, 2996 Victor said:

Krystal Kleer being posh PVA

It's main attribute is it dries really clear, hence it being used to make glazing,  but you can always experiment with others to see how clear they dry, but for attaching canopies,  strength is useful.   

 

On the subject of canopies,  two obvious if you think about it points. 

1. when doing cockpit detail, before going mad, see what is visible through the canopy,  this can be checked with a small finely detail picture, not an entire made cockpit,  anything which allows you to see how much will be visible, 

 

2. test fit canopies early on, ideally in an initial dry fit*,   to see how they fit, and so they can be adjusted to fit, or the kit adjusted so the canopy fits (clear plastic tending to be a bit more brittle) rather than finding out on mostly painted model, I'm think here more of integral frames, but still handy for any project,  it being easier to slim or shim a fuselage, than do the same to the canopy.

 

There are also the UV cured glues, I did a cheap one ages ago but not played with it.  

 

* the result of real world, large scale DIY experience, and making sure stuff will fit later on.   Ironically, the model stuff can feed back into the diy, last time I had to fill small recurring faults on a  window that gets a lot of sun, and always needs some minor work, I used both superglue/talc mix for small bit,  and for a bigger job,  Milliput, some old stuff, and found a short blast in the microwave will make it workable again...  I'll see how this all hold up in the autumn check over.... 

[2996 Victor]

11 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

It's fast grab, but still needs to cure for a while. 

 

11 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

It's main attribute is it dries really clear, hence it being used to make glazing,  but you can always experiment with others to see how clear they dry, but for attaching canopies,  strength is useful.

Very true, and I'll definitely be getting some Wudcare 5 minute! I think I mentioned using CA on these two, and all I can say is "fraught!"

 

11 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

On the subject of canopies,  two obvious if you think about it points. 

1. when doing cockpit detail, before going mad, see what is visible through the canopy,  this can be checked with a small finely detail picture, not an entire made cockpit,  anything which allows you to see how much will be visible, 

I think that's something I've learned from these two. The etched detail is very "clever", and can be made to look excellent, I'm sure. I was a bit nonplussed with how mine turned out - a lot of effort for a not-quite-what-I'd-hoped-for finish.

Which is why I've dialled it back quite a lot on the builds I've begun since!

 

11 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

2. test fit canopies early on, ideally in an initial dry fit*,   to see how they fit, and so they can be adjusted to fit, or the kit adjusted so the canopy fits (clear plastic tending to be a bit more brittle) rather than finding out on mostly painted model, I'm think here more of integral frames, but still handy for any project,  it being easier to slim or shim a fuselage, than do the same to the canopy.

Hmmmm - yep! Something I haven't done, but that makes incredibly good sense! The sort of thing you never think of until someone mentions it, and then it seems so blindingly obvious! In future.....

 

Hope the window repairs hold up! Interesting about the milliput - I haven't had any for years as it became too hard to work. If only I'd known!!!

 

Thanks as always, Troy!

 

Kind regards,

Mark

[2996 Victor]

On 04/04/2021 at 20:20, 2996 Victor said:

I've also ordered a copy of Mushroom's "Portuguese Fighter Colours 1919-1956: Piston-Engine Fighters" as the Portuguese Aeronáutica Militar operated a number of Hurricanes of various marks (as well as Gladiators and Mohawks!).

This arrived yesterday, and it really is a BOOK!!! By which I mean that it's an A4 hardback of significant size, whereas my previous Mushroom purchases have been slender softbacks.

Its jam-packed with info and is absolutely worth the purchase price!  

[2996 Victor]

Some trifling progress has taken place since my last post, but as always its been rather less than intended! The main reason is an innate laziness, perpetual prevarication and binge-watching the BBC comedy series "Ghosts", which has had me

 

So what have I actually managed? Well, the blending-in of the windscreens on both has been tidied back: hopefully it'll be alright but I'll have to wait for a dusting of primer to be sure. In the end, I used the cotton bud and Mr Thinner method, taking as much care as possible to avoid the transparencies, followed by a gentle polish with a fine Tamiya sponge and MicroMesh. However, I still felt that the faired areas below the quarter lights weren't "straight" enough, so I then tried to carefully tidy up further with a scalpel. It seems to have worked, but as mentioned, primer will tell:

http://

http://

 

If I haven't bored you all to sleep yet, you may have noticed the masks on the Mk.I's windscreen? Paint is getting closer 

 

I've also been cutting out the wingtip lights on the Mk.I, something which would have been easier with a razor saw rather than a junior hacksaw! "Fraught" springs to mind. However, I used masking tape to define the extremities of the lights, and took it very carefully, and think I've done a reasonably good job  Here I am part-way through:

http://

 

And both done. Phew!

http://

 

The cut-outs were gently filed, a hole drilled in each where the representation of the bulb will go, and painted with a little Vallejo White aluminium:

http://

 

And that's where I left it as "Ghosts" was calling (were?).

 

As always, comments and suggestions welcome, and thanks for dropping by

[AliGauld]

Nice, nice work that man.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

[2996 Victor]

25 minutes ago, AliGauld said:

Nice, nice work that man.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

Thanks, Alistair! I just hope that I'm getting to the point where I can actually paint the darned things!

 

Cheers,

Mark

[AliGauld]

I don't think you're very far away from that.

Looking forward to it.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

[2996 Victor]

A couple of pages back, we were discussing the relative merits of ordering direct from Arma Hobby compared to ordering from a domestic stockist.

Well, I placed an order with them on 27th March, which has arrived today, i.e. a smidgeon over two weeks later. The order consisted of another Hurricane Mk.IIb Expert, an FM-2 Wildcat Expert and a Yahu FM-2 Wildcat IP. The whole order came to Euro/47.85, or about £41.43 at today's exchange rate. Tracked shipping to the UK was Euro/6.75, or £5.84, which I think is quite modest, and there were no issues clearing customs and no Royal Mail "fee". An identical order from a major UK stockist placed today would set me back £53.28!

Just saying!  

Oh, and I've got an 8% discount voucher if I order something else before the end of this month!!!

 

Cheers,

Mark

[AliGauld]

That's good to know. You might have just got lucky but I think I'll preorder the 1/48 Hurricane and the Mustang from them when the orders go live.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

[2996 Victor]

1 hour ago, AliGauld said:

That's good to know. You might have just got lucky but I think I'll preorder the 1/48 Hurricane and the Mustang from them when the orders go live.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

Hi Alistair,

I think Arma do the same shipping cost for up to three kits, with the cost going up after that. But I'd imagine it would be fairly pro rata compared to domestic shipping costs.

I would imagine that the customs situation would be normal as it was delivered by Royal Mail!

Anyway, it's an option worth considering

Cheers,

Mark

[AliGauld]

13 minutes ago, 2996 Victor said:

Hi Alistair,

I think Arma do the same shipping cost for up to three kits, with the cost going up after that. But I'd imagine it would be fairly pro rata compared to domestic shipping costs.

I would imagine that the customs situation would be normal as it was delivered by Royal Mail!

Anyway, it's an option worth considering

Cheers,

Mark

I'll work it out and if it's much the same then It'll depend on how I feel about the Royal Mail ransom note. 

 

Cheers,

Alistair

[2996 Victor]

41 minutes ago, AliGauld said:

I'll work it out and if it's much the same then It'll depend on how I feel about the Royal Mail ransom note. 

 

Cheers,

Alistair

Definitely do!

I don't know whether the shipping method made a difference getting sent by the tracked method, but there was no Royal Mail ransom note. Maybe I just got lucky this time!

Cheers,

Mark

[ModelingEdmontonian]

Mark, is it just me, or are the tails on the Arma kits off-centered (veering to port)? On both my Mk I and Mk IIc this is happening--the slot the tails slide is not straight. I'm not going to worry about this because it would be difficult to correct and not the type of thing I want to hassle with, but curious if you have the same issue.

[Dave Swindell]

51 minutes ago, ModelingEdmontonian said:

Mark, is it just me, or are the tails on the Arma kits off-centered (veering to port)? On both my Mk I and Mk IIc this is happening--the slot the tails slide is not straight. I'm not going to worry about this because it would be difficult to correct and not the type of thing I want to hassle with, but curious if you have the same issue.

Yes they're offset, and yes, it's correct. The Hurricane fin was offset 1.5 degrees to port to counteract engine torque.