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I've been thinking along that same line. Sharpen one from the outside in and another from the inside out, to get two slightly different diameters.

 

 

 

Chris

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9 hours ago, dogsbody said:

Aren't masking 1/72 Hurricane canopies just the greatest? How you managed to do three at once is beyond me! I had a hard enough time doing one.

 

That was my Friday night chore after a late shift, sat up in bed with the canopies and masks on a tray; rock and roll :lol:

 

9 hours ago, wimbledon99 said:

I reckon you're in denial over those masks Stew. Looks like grey primer to me  :wink:  :laugh:

 

P.S. I have to ask; What's with the happy and sad corks??

 

Yes I'm not sure what the issue with the picture was, but in effect it turned out to be brown primer anyway :D 

 

These boys are to keep my scalpels in so if they roll of the table they don't stick in my legs - straight face for the straight blade, smiley face for the curved blade, it means I get the scalpel I want without having to remove it from the cork to see first:

 

DSCN1513.jpg

 

8 hours ago, Torbjorn said:

Like the little round reflectors, definitely better than those I tried to shape. Wonder if I can sharpen an aluminium or brass tube to do the work.

 

Yes, that can be done but it's quite hard to get a clean cut round the edges; also you need some rod or sprue that fits inside the tube to poke out the cut-out piece of acetate as it rarely if ever drops out on its own :) 

 

Anyway, now available in Dark Green:

 

DSCN1511.jpg

 

... and it does actually look dark green this time :D 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

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12 hours ago, Stew Dapple said:

 

 

These boys are to keep my scalpels in so if they roll of the table they don't stick in my legs - straight face for the straight blade, smiley face for the curved blade, it means I get the scalpel I want without having to remove it from the cork to see first:

 

DSCN1513.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clever but simple; I like it!!

 

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Me too! Now, where to find these corks. Looks like I must buy two-three large bottles of dispensable fluid. 

 

For the punches steel would of course be better but at least some of us don’t have the tools for that. Sure, buying a lathe is probably cheaper than some of those punch sets 😛

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18 hours ago, Torbjorn said:

Me too! Now, where to find these corks. Looks like I must buy two-three large bottles of dispensable fluid. 

 

 

Skål!! 🥃

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On 9/14/2020 at 11:08 PM, Torbjorn said:

Me too! Now, where to find these corks. Looks like I must buy two-three large bottles of dispensable fluid. 

 

I can recommend the Glen Garioch distillery in Old Meldrum, Aberdeenshire, as a purveyor of excellent corks, unfortunately you have to work your way through a bottle of single malt first :D 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

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1 hour ago, Stew Dapple said:

I can recommend the Glen Garioch distillery in Old Meldrum, Aberdeenshire, as a purveyor of excellent corks, unfortunately you have to work your way through a bottle of single malt first :D 

I can just imagine the conversation;

’I had to buy them dear, they’re essential for my modelling’.

As if I wasn’t in enough trouble as every time a cupboard is opened a heap of models fall out! :D

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Just found your build Stew. All I can say is 'WOW'. Great build, great build, great build. And quick! I envy you your ability to get that detail in 1/72. Nice work, look forward to seeing these in their finest.

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Thanks Pete,

 

Apart from the seatbelts and reflector plate for the gunsight, all that detail is included in the kit, it's not even the Expert edition with the photo-etch :) I will be building more of these, I currently have four others in the stash, 2 x Expert sets and 2 x Tropical versions that were cheaper for some reason but contain the same parts. 

 

Cheers.

 

Stew

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On Thursday and Friday I fitted the camouflage masks; the 'A' Scheme seemed to have slightly better adhesion than the 'B' Scheme but both were adequate to their needs. I reinforced some of the tighter curves with a bit of Tammy tape to eliminate the (probably non-existent) risk of the edges popping up mid-spray:

 

DSCN1515.jpg

 

Then the Dark Earth was applied:

 

DSCN1517.jpg

 

I put a blob of Mig Masking Putty over the canopy to protect the paintwork. Then the masks were removed... et voila:

 

DSCN1519.jpg

 

I re-used the 'B' Scheme mask for the third Hurri:

 

DSCN1520.jpg

 

... and that's where we are now. I don't think the masks can be re-used indefinitely but they are certainly good for more than one use if you stick them back on their backing sheets once you are done with them. The models will get a couple of coats of Klear today and then hopefully I'll be on to the transfers... :D 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

 

 

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On 9/20/2020 at 8:55 PM, Valkyrie said:

Very nice paint job 

 

Thank you mate :) I shied away from using camo masks a while ago as my inner Puritan considered it sort of... cheating somehow. Strange as he was perfectly happy to accept me using canopy masks, pre-painted etched instrument panels, decals and all the other aids we have to make our modelling lives easier or our models more attractive/accurate :lol: I think it was worth using them for both the time it saved me and the consistency of the patterns, particularly on the two 'B' Scheme aircraft where any serious deviation between the two might have been noticeable.

 

So this week I've done a few of the outstanding chores; the undercarriage parts, the exhausts and pitot tubes - these can all be added after the models are varnished:

 

DSCN1527.jpg

 

The models themselves were given a couple of coats of Klear and the transfers applied. I used the kit decals for the national markings, they are printed by Techmod and supply a wide variety of roundels and fin striping, probably enough to cover almost any BoB-era Hurricane you might want to build. All the decals functioned very well; the oldest I think were the Aeromaster ones which are probably around 20 years old and they went on fine without any silvering at all. The Kagero decals from the Battle of Britain Part 2 set were nice too but very thin, inclined to wrinkle and tear if you had to move them at all, and of course it's pretty much guaranteed that you will have to move them unless you land them exactly where you want them first time. The Techmod decals supplied with the kit were excellent, quite thin and very sticky but landed on a wet surface were tough enough to prod into position as required. Of the three I think the Techmod get the award for best, though as I said all were good.

 

I used the brighter pre-war blue roundels and stripes for Ian Gleed's 'Mighty A' although I have no evidence that the aircraft wore these except that it was a Gloster-built Hurricane and Gloster apparently were using the pre-war roundel colours perhaps as late as November 1940. I trimmed a portion off the fuselage roundel:

 

DSCN1523.jpg

 

... as it appears from photos that the yellow roundel surround does not continue on to the underside colour. It's possible that it is just in shadow, or that it was never painted onto the underside colour when it was applied, or perhaps that the yellow was simply painted over when the underside was repainted following the change from the black/white divided underside to Sky. In any case, that's what I did.

 

The transfers have all been applied now, even the majority of the stencil markings which I admit I thought fairly long and hard about not bothering with :D. As a punishment for this, some of the stencils silvered slightly but not enough to create more than a slight ripple on the surface of my equanimity.

 

DSCN1528.jpg

 

The transfers have been sealed in with Klear and hopefully I will get the matt coat on today. I must remember to re-stuff the sponge bits in the landing gear bays before I do that...

 

Cheers, 

 

Stew

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They are looking great!

 

On the tools front, I bought a leather belt hole puncher that makes holes/discs from 2 to 4.5 mm. I have to put some cardboard behind the card or wine bottle foil I’m punching but it works well enough and cost me about a fiver.

 

Regards,

Adrian

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Looking very good as usual Stew.  Or are you using 'the make three models and get them all in in the photo to reduce the detail shown' technique: if so it works for me!

 

Good luck with threading the undercarriage through the holes in the wheelwells,  I am not sure if you have done it before,  if not I think Procopius made a video of how to do it.  I managed it without swearing or breaking anything, which was a first for me.

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18 hours ago, Olmec Head said:

Or are you using 'the make three models and get them all in in the photo to reduce the detail shown' technique

 

A variant on that theme perhaps: "Use distance to hide faults" :lol:

 

The matt coat was applied and resulted in some of the expected silvering around some of the stencils plus some which had previously not been anticipated; no matter, I've reached the stage where I have done the best I could with my weak decal-fu and it does not trouble me enough to attempt remedial action. In future builds - and I will be building more of this kit for sure - I might leave off the uppersurface stencils since the silvering is rather more noticeable than an absence of stencils would be. Anyway here they are with the remaining bits and bobs added, just the wing lights, aerial wires and some exhaust stains etc. to be added:

 

DSCN1531.jpg

 

A word about the markings used; several and perhaps the majority of the 32 Squadron Hurricanes photographed in July 1940 carried the GZ codes forward of the roundel on the starboard side, but a picture of GZ-Z coming in to land shows the individual aircraft code forward; I don't recall ever seeing a starboard side shot of GZ-B and I don't know what Kagero's reference was, but I'm prepared to accept it as is. I haven't added the red flashes on the nose of Ian Gleed's "Figaro" - a couple of photos clearly show that these were applied while the aircraft was still in the TLS prior to it being painted mostly black overall, but I am not convinced that the nose colours were there all along. I'm sure at some time I had a picture of Figaro on the ground with those markings absent but I can't find it in any of my books or on the internet so I have to accept a possibility that I made it up in a fever dream or something... anyway I didn't use those markings so that's that :D 

 

Hopefully I'll get these finished during the week :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

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Thanks Jabba :cheers:

 

First one finished:

 

DSCN1533.jpg

 

I'll take the 'glamour' shots for the Gallery later when the light is better. The wing lights fitted fine but I did take the precaution of clearing the areas they fit into of any paint that might prevent a good fit; it was still pretty tight. I used Infini Fine White Lycra thread for the aerial wire, it's almost invisible which I think is fine for the scale. I used ground-up blackish grey, dark brown and light grey hard pastels for the exhaust and gun ejector port staining, and some Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade mixed up washes from Citadel for the oil leakage under the nose; 'Vicki' Ortmans' Hurricane showed surprisingly clean undercarriage doors in the one photo I found that showed this aicraft so it may be that this particular engine did not urinate oil in the way that some Hurricanes show the signs of, so I kept the leakage to a minimum on this one.

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

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Caught up with these Stew - that'll teach me for not watching GBs!

 

Fine work Sir, they're looking splendid.

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Looks great Stew, and nice pics in the gallery. Interesting to see you used the old Aeromaster decs. I used them many years ago to model the same plane (Revell Hurricane I think, still sitting on the shelf). I thought the decals were very good and sad that they're unavailable now.

:goodjob:

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On 04/09/2020 at 06:59, Stew Dapple said:

Was it fitting the spinner to the backplate that gave you a problem? It doesn't sit quite flush and it had me scratching my head for a while, but I believe that it's not meant to fit flush so that when installed you have a slight gap between the nose and the prop unit as you see on Rotol Hurricanes.

 

No, it's shouldn't stick out the back, certainly not as much as Arma have it.  This shows the oil ring which started to be fitted in Sep 40.  

 

50397930463_6274d5c710_o.jpg

 

 

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