Swedish duo - A21R + J32B - 1/72 - BOTH COMPLETE!

[Dennis_C]

Hi everyone,

 

Next WIP I'm going to post here would be for a fighters duo from Flygvapnet. J21R - a Special Hobby kit and J32B - Tarangus kit. 

 

Two boxes have been in my stash for about 4 years and now seems it's time to open'em!!!

Edited December 3, 2021 by Dennis_C

[Dennis_C]

First to open was Lansen from Tarangus. 

I was really impatient to remove major parts and cockpit pieces off the sprues so the starting shot is not of a completely virgin kit. 

Also I have some extra bits - maestro (Eduard) PE, master brass, and resin rocket pods to accompany Sidewinders under the wing. 

[2996 Victor]

Very much looking forward to seeing how these progress!

Kind regards,

Mark

[Dennis_C]

I won't do a complete kit review here, still some first observations on the moulding quality etc.

 

First of all this is clearly a Sword manufactured kit. Familiar bluish plastic, soft details at times, instruction is standard Sword brochure. 

 

Bigger parts look reasonably fine. However as usual with Sword minor bits are softer:

 

Compare same bits to what Sword supposed to do and pictured on the instruction (undercarriage doors, ejector seats

 

Sink marks sometimes:

 

Ejector pins in surprise areas:

 

Canopy is okay

Fits fuselage 8 out of 10 which is higher than usual for Sword. 

 

Inside shield is not really transparent though:

Some polishing will be needed.

Edited August 28, 2020 by Dennis_C

[Dennis_C]

Decal sheet and decal placement instruction seem to be supplied by Tarangus themselves.

Typical Sword decal is Techmod printed. This is not. 

Also typical Sword stencils placing guide is full mess with few numbers accurately corresponding to decal sheet. However here everything seems fine upon a random check. 

 

 

PE fret from Maestro (I'm sure this is Eduard produced) is originally intended for a Heller kit. But seems fine for Tarangus too. Width of instrument panel is spot on. 

PE fret is definitely an improvement for cockpit especially for bare bang seats. Also it allows to manufacture open airbrakes. Though I'm not 100% positive of such challenge. Too many PE parts there so I'd maybe try but will cut through the fuselage only after I successfully do all four bits. 

 

That is all for now. 

Some more mediation tonight and probably tomorrow I'll start with removal of nasty ejector pins elsewhere. 

 

Best regards,

Dennis

[Orso]

I have built those air brakes a couple of times but left those small triangles out. They are hard enough to build without them.

Edited August 28, 2020 by Orso

[Graeme H]

I'm in 

[Andwil]

I have the Lansen in my stash so I’ll be watching with interest.

 

AW

[Dennis_C]

9 hours ago, Orso said:

I have built those air brakes a couple of times but left those small triangles out. They are hard enough to build without them.

Hi Orso, 

 

After some study it looks like you only need 5 little triangles per brake. One of each size. Why they gave us 10 little triangles of every size while one just needs two? Nice meal for a carpet monster!

Things do not look as scary

 

Dennis

[Tomjw]

I'm a sucker for Swedish aircraft so I'll tag along...

 

Cheers,

 

Tom

[Orso]

6 hours ago, Dennis_C said:

Hi Orso, 

 

After some study it looks like you only need 5 little triangles per brake. One of each size. Why they gave us 10 little triangles of every size while one just needs two? Nice meal for a carpet monster!

Things do not look as scary

 

Dennis

But I know what will happen if I try to mount them. They will not be on the air brakes. They will be firmly glued to the tweezers.

[alt-92]

...or pinging off into the distance. 

Which is why you get 10

 

[Aardvark]

21 hours ago, Dennis_C said:

First of all this is clearly a Sword manufactured kit

Then it's redesigned Heller.  The combination is 

in my stash 

J21R - a Special Hobby kit and J32 - Heller kit.

 

Therefore, I will take a seat in the auditorium.

 

B.w. main wheel bay interior:

21 hours ago, Dennis_C said:

Ejector pins in surprise areas:

best than Heller (on Heller he simply isn't there! 😁) but he's not accurate.

 

B.R.

Serge

Edited August 29, 2020 by Aardvark

[Orso]

Just a little nitpicking, Heller is a A 32A or S 32C Attack or Recce.  The Tarangus is a J 32B Fighter.  Heller used the wrong type on the box when the kit was first issued.

Edited August 30, 2020 by Orso

[Dennis_C]

5 hours ago, Orso said:

Just a little nitpicking, Heller is a A 32A or S 32C Attack or Recce.  The Tarangus is a J 32B Fighter.  Heller used the wrong type on the box when the kit was first issued.

Tarangus has wrong text on the instruction sheet. It speaks about A32A

[Terry1954]

Two very nice subjects, both of which I have in my stash. Will follow with interest. I was also pondering over how I might tackle those ejector pin marks in the J-32 U/C bay. I think for me some cutting and plastic card replacement would work.

 

Terry

[Aardvark]

On 8/30/2020 at 5:48 AM, Orso said:

Just a little nitpicking, Heller is a A 32A or S 32C Attack or Recce.  The Tarangus is a J 32B Fighter.  Heller used the wrong type on the box when the kit was first issued.

I know.

On 8/30/2020 at 12:30 PM, Terry1954 said:

I was also pondering over how I might tackle those ejector pin marks in the J-32 U/C bay. I think for me some cutting and plastic card replacement would work.

I think need maked new main wheel bay, because:

- original

( photo from http://www.plasticwarfare.se/2012/01/saab-j32d-walkaround/ )

- Tarangus:

On 8/29/2020 at 12:04 AM, Dennis_C said:

 

Just compared 

the depth of the groove in the corrugated compartment on a real aircraft and model.  Using the link above, you will also find many differences main wheel bay between the model and reality.

 

B.R.

Serge

[Christer A]

A word of advice regarding the J21R from someone who built two of the recently.

Be extra careful with the atachment of the booms. The way they're setup with the wheel bay could lead to a lot of sanding and swearing later on.

 

Also, the clear parts have a very approximate fit...

But in the end, it looks very much like a J21R!

[Dennis_C]

2 hours ago, Aardvark said:

I think need maked new main wheel bay, because:

- original

Hi Serge, thanks for sharing this perfect walkaround! It looks like ejector pins removal is just a step #1 from around 150 steps one has to do to model these wheel bays.

 

Just a bit if wiring and you are there!!! Wow...

[Dennis_C]

Okay. Some time spent on interior bits of the Lansen.

 

Added some kit and PE parts to the seats as well as a scratched handle. Other parts to be installed after painting.

 

Shaved off instrument panel details to give way to PE. Assembled the cockpit tub + front wheel bay. It's 7 parts construction which had to be carefully aligned against fuselage parts. Worked out okay as fit of the parts is spot on. Not something you typically get from short-run.

 

 

Pilot's instrument panel as provided in the kit accurately represents a J32B panel. However PE part in Maestro set is designed for a J32E (electronic reconnaissance conversion). So I decided to keep kit's part untouched. Side consoles and back seat panel seem to be similar on both versions. 

 

 

Lastly spent some time with intakes and exhaust tube. 

 

One intake was short-moulded so I had to restore its shape. There was a molding defect on the exhaust too. Installed PE bit into exhaust scratching a plastic ring to hold PE. Seems that Heller exhaust is a bit narrower than Sword one. 

 

 

Next step would be assembly of the airbrakes. 

 

All the best,

Dennis.

Edited September 11, 2020 by Dennis_C

[Dennis_C]

Hi All,

 

Have not posted to this topic for a while. Meanwhile I've finished all interior and some exterior bits for Lansen. Now it all is put aside to wait while I work on J-21 to paint all the bits for two aircraft together. 

 

 

Additions are

1. gear bay doors where I had to sand all sink marks,

2. gear struts. Nose strut was awful. Not straight. So I cut it into two parts and glued together with a bit of brass tubing. Plus added PE scissors. 

3. Airbrakes. Fragile beasts. Took some time to assemble, but look fairly ok. 

4. Wheels cleared and sanded to be of a smooth surface. 

 

Enough of Lansen so far Let's move on to another airplane. 

 

Dennis

Edited October 17, 2020 by Dennis_C

[Dennis_C]

And here the other goes:

 

 

All I have is a Special Hobby box and its contents. No aftermarket this time so formally an out of the box build. 

 

 

However the box itself is not just plastic. SH gives us a large PE fret with parts for cockpit as well as for decoration of gear bays. Also we get several resin bits. Wheels (very nice), gun sight and some more undercarriage bits. Lastly a nice decal for four fighter variants including some stencilling. 

 

So overall we have an old good MPM box that could be built OOB without any spares. 

 

The most strange thing is the instruction. 

 

 

No painting guidance for interiors at all!!! (There is external painting guide still) Of course I can't say instructions are always correct or that I follow them much. But for this rare type with only one present in a museum... I'd say why not to give those references??? Okay. Looks like the cockpit was mainly same green as exterior so probably an easy way out. 

 

I need to do some more photoes as I gained some progress over this week. Will be back soon

 

Dennis.

Edited October 17, 2020 by Dennis_C

[Dennis_C]

Some progress on J-21.

 

Pulled together cockpit parts as well as main gear. I decided to do this fully OOB which gives you quit good result with the amount of pe provided. 

 

 

I removed quite a bit of pieces off the sprues to start dry fitting. So far looks decent without much issues. 

 

 

Gear bay doors are provided as single piece and should be cut in two and the front door even in three pieces. Not my favourite job. 

 

Dennis.

[Dennis_C]

Returning to this project after a pause to finish up my Spitfires and some work done on LH-34. 

Huge work in the paint shop today for priming interiors and some external bits. 

Here is what I had

 

And after quite a bit of time I came here

 

As you can see some techniques to paint small bits are used here

1) I stick small flat parts to masking tape. For example, instrument panels or undercarriage doors. For undercarriage doors I prime and paint interior side at this early stage while outer side is primed and painted together with assembled airframe.

2) I also use masking tape to hold small parts that have more or less large flat surfaces that do not get painted. E.g. ejection seats, control sticks, or in this case also Lansen's gear legs. 

3) I use paper clips to paint wheels that are attached to fork holders. Paper clip ends are inserted into attachment holes. 

Standard wheels are attached to toothpicks but there were no such wheels today. J-21 wheels are all attached to fork legs, and Lansen's main gear wheels had too large attachment holes so I also used clips as well. 

4) I keep some smaller bits on sprue parts especially if the feeder is at a place that is not visible later. 

5) Many PE parts are painted before detachment from fret. In this case for Lansen I only have pedals to paint, but for J-21R there's a lot of various hinges, cockpit parts and so on. 

[Tomjw]

Looking good Dennis with both builds. I've recently developed quite a liking for these short run kits so I'm learning as I follow.

 

Cheers,

 

Tom