Renault RE20 Turbo

[silver911]

Spent the day prepping a few more of the engine bits...and giving them a quick mist coat of primer...these are all associated with the main block...which will be my main focus for now.....

 

 

 

Whilst waiting for a break in the weather this afternoon...and in a moment of utter madness...as many of us modellers suffer from at times...for some inexplicable reason I decided to add some fittings to the fuel pump...to say a few expletives were muttered is an understatement.

 

 

Pics of this bit were very hard to get on my iPhone...but hope you can make it out.

The kit fuel pump is barely 8 mm in length and 5 mm wide...so it was a real challenge to be able to hold it and drill 6 holes of 0.7 mm diameter...without breaking the micro drill bit...or drilling into my fingers.

I will remove the points from the tubing posts when the glue has fully set so as not to keep stabbing myself...and I use the pointed ends of ordinary sewing pins to better guide them through the very small holes I drilled in the kit part after cutting off the plastic posts.

 

With these bits primed...it gives me a better idea of what fittings can be added to replace the kit 'posts' that you just push tubing on to...which...to me...always spoils the effect...and tags it as what it is...a model.

 

Ron

 

 

[Codger]

Welcome back to the world of pain and suffering to produce excellence.

Is it safe to assume you use thin CA to join these minute pieces?

[kpnuts]

Incredible work as usual

[Redstaff]

10 hours ago, silver911 said:

I am using this project to illustrate the painting techniques I use for metal finishes and effects that members have asked me to explain.

Hope that doesn't spoil it for you mate.

It won't spoil it for me at all, any one kind enough to share tips and tecniques to help us improve is well worth following  

 

Ian  

[silver911]

11 minutes ago, Codger said:

Welcome back to the world of pain and suffering to produce excellence.

Is it safe to assume you use thin CA to join these minute pieces?

Believe me when I say this was at the very limit of eyes + optivisor + magnifying lamp = headache!!!

 

Yep...good old super thin CA Mr C

[silver911]

14 minutes ago, kpnuts said:

Incredible work as usual

Many thanks as always mate 👍

[silver911]

16 minutes ago, Redstaff said:

It won't spoil it for me at all, any one kind enough to share tips and tecniques to help us improve is well worth following  

 

Ian  

Good to know Ian 👍

 

I have always believed that sharing is the key to learning...insight is vital to understanding what we can gain from each other...and this forum is a treasure trove of knowledge and help for all of us mate.

 

Ron

[PHIL B]

Nice work Ron.

There's a good amount of moulded derail for a 1/12 kit isn't there? It certainly set a new standard when it was released in 1981. I usually build in 1/20 so I'm interested to see how much further you can go in 1/12.

 

That Kugelfuscher injection pump is looking really good. Not having seen your work before, the pins surprised me - what a great idea!

Looking forward to seeing what you'll do next.

 

Phil

 

 

Edited August 29, 2020 by PHIL B
Addition

[silver911]

1 hour ago, PHIL B said:

Nice work Ron.

There's a good amount of moulded derail for a 1/12 kit isn't there? It certainly set a new standard when it was released in 1981. I usually build in 1/20 so I'm interested to see how much further you can go in 1/12.

 

That Kugelfuscher injection pump is looking really good. Not having seen your work before, the pins surprised me - what a great idea!

Looking forward to seeing what you'll do next.

 

Phil

 

 

Hi Phil,

in fairness yes there is a lot of moulded detail as is usual with Tamiya...a lot of it is very basic but...to be fair to them...casting pins for hose connections was the norm then...and remains so now...and is where after market detailing come's into play.

My intention is to add more A&N fitings...hose joints...hose clamps...maybe a few bolts here and there...such as on the suspension to replace the kit 'screws'...some metal pipes in place of the plastic...heat shrink for HT lead and plug leads etc. etc. etc.

 

I tend to get a creative with my builds...although my eyes are not what they were...and 1/12 is a world away from this.....

 

[PHIL B]

You're right Ron. It is of its time but that's where you and your magic come in!

 

That sort of improvements are what I try to do in 1/20 but of course the level of detail possible is more limited. I'm fascinated to see your approach.

 

 I'm currently working on a 1/20 Williams FW07. Tamiya's Ford Cosworth DFV in 1/20 is a bit of a jewel but can use lots of improvements. Fuel metering unit, distributor, spark box, inlet trumpets, fuel lines, plug leads, etc.

 

Your Ducati shows the difference between modelling and model engineering. 😀

 

Phil

 

 

[silver911]

Further to the comments between Phil and myself...regarding detailing this build and...as we agreed...there is a good deal of moulded detail...however...as I mentioned previously...the simple 'prongs' for connecting hoses and pipes just don't work it for me.

For example...here is the kit part as supplied...

 

 

As you can see...it has the moulded prongs for connections...note...there should have been one in the middle indentation at the top...which wasn't there when I got the kit...and would have been wrong anyway...as there should be a twin A&N connection for two lines not one.

The two side one's and the one at the bottom were simply cut off...holes drilled for the relevant fittings...which were glued in place.

Replicating the one for the one at the top was not so easy!

Two 1.6 mm A&N fittings had to be drilled out from 0.6 mm to 0.8...this was to allow a split pin to be inserted through it to form the connector...plus a post for the hose to connect to later...then a short length of 1.4 mm brass tube was cut and passed through the two split pin ends to complete the connectors...with a 1.2 mm Allen bolt inserted into the end of the tube to replicate the fitting bolt.

 

 

I will add the welds around the fittings tomorrow.

 

Next up were the Intercooler pods...very straightforward assembly...however...a basic detail was missing...the weld seams!

Whilst there are several ways to replicate weld seams...putty...glue...even thick painting medium...I have...for me at least...a much simpler method.

First I brush a thin line of Tamiya extra thin cement along the proposed line where I want the weld...leave it for a minute or two to gently soften the plastic surface...then...using the flat round tip of a micro chisel...it's just a case of pushing it into the plastic with a gentle pushing motion...which pushes a tiny amount of it upwards...then it's a simple matter to move the chisel along half a mil and repeating over and over until you have your weld seam...it takes longer to explain that to do.

 

 

It will all look better once I get it primed.

 

Ron

 

Edited October 19, 2020 by silver911

[kpnuts]

Great work mate.

[Pouln]

Looking great. Nice tutorial too.

[silver911]

55 minutes ago, kpnuts said:

Great work mate.

Thanks mate...much appreciated as always 👍

[silver911]

17 minutes ago, Pouln said:

Looking great. Nice tutorial too.

Thanks Poul...should look better when it's primed if weather allows tomorrow.

 

I will try to pass on as much about my techniques as I can as the build progresses...and look forward to any suggestions and tips from you guys as we go please.

 

Ron

Edited August 29, 2020 by silver911
added text

[harveyb258]

Great result Ron.

I haven't seen that technique used before for the welds and your split pins for the banjo fittings is a stroke of genius.....I like

 

Cheers, H

[silver911]

56 minutes ago, harveyb258 said:

Great result Ron.

I haven't seen that technique used before for the welds and your split pins for the banjo fittings is a stroke of genius.....I like

 

Cheers, H

Many thanks Harvey 🙂

 

I prefer doing the welds this way as you can soften them afterwards by running some more cement over them...that's the beauty of using the plastic itself as opposed to putty etc. ...less time consuming too 😉

 

Split pins for 'banjo' fittings came from a time when after market parts were non existent or crazy expensive...and there are many more sizes of them to choose from even now compared to after market pieces...and still way cheaper.

 

Ron

[silver911]

Changed a few more of the moulded pins on the engine block for fittings to connect hoses/pipes to...

 

 

Then gave it a final coat of primer.

Then got the last few bits for this stage of the build cleaned and primed...

 

 

Although the kit instructions tag all these parts as one shade of Aluminium...I will be using several shades/variations as per the real car.

Although certain parts need to be blue for this engine...the Aluminium will provide an ideal base colour...and it will be easier to mask for painting the blue doing it this way.

 

So...now it's on to airbrushing the different base shades in preparation for my techniques to follow.

[Codger]

Is removing paint from the glue areas a big priority for good joins? I have used lacquer thinner on a cotton tip to wipe the paint from the desired area. If you do it - how?

[silver911]

I either use your method...or simply scrape it off with a scalpel blade...I am wary of laquer thinners on this thin plastic...worst case scenario...it can melt the surface...with fittings of real metal and resin I use CA to get the strongest bond.

[silver911]

As a precursor to illustrating and explaining the techniques I use, it will help people understand better if I explain some of the 'terms' I use, along with the materials I always have to hand.

 

Most commonly, you will see the term 'scrub coat' used, and this refers to the way I apply the oil paint layer that is used to alter the shade of the base colour and helps to define the shadows and detail, in as much as it is applied (scrubbed) all over the piece with no finesse whatsoever. With the key to this application being that you get it into every crevice. If you fail to do this it will show up starkly against the rest later.

 

Next is the term 'thinning back', which in no way has anything to do with the use of any kind of thinners, and is everything to do with leaving the thinnest layer possible behind by wiping over the painted surface with a clean dry flat brush. Key to the success of this stage, is to continually wipe your brush off on paper towel between each few passes with the brush you use, or you will just be moving the paint around on the surface, and not removing it.

 

Thirdly, the term 'dry brushing' is common to pretty much all modellers no matter what arena they work in but, a brief explanation may help those unfamiliar with it. Briefly, dry brushing is used to capture the highest points on a surface, without covering the whole. This is achieved most often with acrylics, although oil paint can be used to the same effect. You simply load your brush with paint, then wipe off the excess paint on paper towel or cloth until the brush appears 'dry'. Now it's just a case of drawing the brush across the surface keeping it parallel at all times so that you don't get paint in the recesses.

 

Lastly 'stippling', again this is a term familiar to most but, for those who do not have experience of it, a quick run down is in order. Unlike dry brushing, you do not draw the brush across the surface, rather you use a stabbing motion from directly above the surface. Stippling brushes are easily created by cutting the tip off of a worn out pointed brush. Take a sharp blade and cut the hairs down by two thirds, which will leave a short stiff head, which is exactly what you want, as you don't want the hairs to splay out when you stab the paint onto the surface. As with dry brushing, you stab the excess paint onto paper towel prior to using it.

 

Now for a brief guide to the mediums and tools I use to get the type of finishes and effects I use in my work. My two main mediums are, oil paints and acrylics. Where oils are concerned I only use the 'Artists' grade, and my two favourites are Old Holland and Sennelier, with a few Windsor and Newton as well. When it comes to acrylics, especially metals, I mainly stick with Vallejo Model Air and their superb Metal Color range of airbrush ready paints. Another brand I recommend are the Scale75 Metal n Alchemy Steel set, for it's unusual shades of colour.

When it comes to brushes I am slightly different to most oil users, in that I don't agree that Sable are the best for this type of technique, simply because they will wear out very quickly, and cost a lot of money. With acrylics, I tend to use a reasonable quality but, price is the defining reason when buying. I tend to stick to the middle range, as these will last a long time and can be used for other things when past their best.

One aspect of my techniques is the type of brushes I use for 'thinning back', which a lot of people laugh at when I tell them, but give me the results I want every time and are cheap. They are women's make-up brushes! These are the softest, most forgiving of brushes and, most importantly, do not shed hairs. Along with these I also use sponge sticks and make-up removal sponges.

 

I will illustrate all of the above as the build progresses, along with further hints and tips, and explanations of each method of application and why. It will be much easier to understand when I post pictures to link each of the techniques and stages, and hopefully make more sense.

 

There you have it. All that remains now is for me to show you how it all comes together.

 

Ron

Edited September 15, 2020 by silver911
added text

[Codger]

There it is forum members- 40 year's worth of skills and superbly explained. Ron's generosity saves us all the cost of a 'how-to' book.

[PHIL B]

This is pure gold Ron. Not only are explaining your techniques but telling us what materials and tools you use. The two things go hand in hand. Thanks so much for this. When they say "Every day is a school day", this is the kind of school day we want!

 

Phil

 

[silver911]

27 minutes ago, Codger said:

There it is forum members- 40 year's worth of skills and superbly explained. Ron's generosity saves us all the cost of a 'how-to' book.

Now all I have to do is prove it works Mr C 😉

[silver911]

21 minutes ago, PHIL B said:

This is pure gold Ron. Not only are explaining your techniques but telling us what materials and tools you use. The two things go hand in hand. Thanks so much for this. When they say "Every day is a school day", this is the kind of school day we want!

 

Phil

 

I will go deeper into things as we progress Phil...if it helps others...then it's worth it to me mate...it should all fall into place once I get pics to accompany the words...and I promise...it's not hard to replicate once you get to grips with the basics.

Obviously...feel free to ask questions...and I will do my best to answer them clearly...with more pics if needed.