Renault RE20 Turbo

[silver911]

Today's session involved laying down some shades of metal on the primed engine pieces...but...before I post a few pictures...a little insight into how I approach this stage will give a better feel for how and why I do things the way I do.

Most modellers I have come into contact with...share the same approach to metals...basically...they use an all over...even coat of colour...and it's in this respect that I differ from that norm.

One thing that has always been obvious to me when studying reference pictures of a given subject that involves metals...is that there is a huge variance in the surface finish...even more so when trying to replicate something that has been used.

A good example being a car engine...whether road or race...they share the same tones and discolourations to the surface finish once they have seen a bit of action...and...it's these effects that I try to replicate in my work...and also the way I lay down the base colour in preparation for the techniques that follow on from this base...I don't use just one colour...I use at least two...and sometimes more on each piece...and always avoid a flat and even coat...so that I can take advantage of the different reflective properties of each colour.

For the parts in the pictures that follow...I have used Vallejo Metal Color paints throughout...there are five basic shades across the spread of parts...with each one receiving a mist coat of another colour...and the large bulkhead getting two other colours over the base coat.

Note;...one thing that I make constant use of...is that acrylics...although appearing to dry in a short time...actually take a few hours to dry fully...it's this aspect that I make use of when overlaying another colour or colours...as they dry they will 'bleed' into each other...so the separation between colours will soften and create a subtle gradation of colour.

Colours used were Duraluminium...White Aluminium...Pale Burnt Metal...and Exhaust Manifold...all were sprayed at 14 psi...with two drops of thinner to each airbrush cup of paint...with the overlay colours sprayed at 12 psi...and worked close in.

You will hopefully see what I mean by varying the coverage...and also allowing the airbrush to spit a few times here and there for further effect in preparation for the oil paint effects that follow this stage.

It wasn't easy to get decent pictures...metals are always a pain...but you should get the idea.......

 

 

Apologies for the quality of the pics...I will make sure they are much better for the next stage.

 

Feel free to ask questions...or offer any thoughts.

 

Ron

Edited January 28, 2021 by silver911
added text

[kpnuts]

Great work mate 

[Codger]

OK, where to begin?

First, to thank you for this great gift of knowledge you give us all here. I sense another pinned WIP coming.

The sign of a true master of his tools and materials; you 'allow' your airbrush to spit - we mere mortals tear our hairs out because we can't prevent them from spitting !

But I have a question or two which in no way are meant to challenge your proven successful methods. For instance the matter of primer; would not a flatter (less textured) surface result from NOT using primer? That would require careful dressing the bare plastic to a dull but scratch-free surface. I sense that may result in a thinner finish meaning less layers. This could also be total hogwash.

A surprise is the relatively high psi you use compared to the Alclad family recommendations. The addition of thinners is excellent for flow and thin layers. Might not a drop or two of gloss clear also added to those metal colors impart a 'metallic sheen' ? Very many cast, sheet or extruded ally parts show that even after 'use' conditions.

I welcome discussion by you and the group on your experiences. I am in no way attempting to create controversy. But I feel such in-depth presentation deserves more than perfunctory compliments.

In fact, I am ALMOST moved to lift the Rolls from its case and wash the engine and running gear in thinners and start over. Clearly, your materials alone are superior to the hodge-podge of acrylics, lacquers, waxes, graphites and witchcraft I employed. And your methods surely are.

But I said ALMOST....

[silver911]

Your questions are most welcome Mr C...as is your humour and diplomacy.

First...primer...is there a need for it...in my world...yes...and this is all about the varied techniques I use...their application...some of which would soon wear through the base coat it if were not for the primer...which locks the base colour down...and allows me to use washes of different mediums and thinners with no ill effect on same.

Secondly...the perceived 'texture' is nothing more than the different levels of refraction between the various shades I have used...I can assure you the colours are totally flat.

Third...psi is a subjective matter...and one that has caused many arguments in airbrushing since it's inception.

Personally...I vary the psi to achieve a given finish...such as the spitting you commented on...simply achieved by removing the needle guard (as you do for very close working) and adding a couple of drops of thinner along with a 4 psi drop in pressure.

Using a higher than average psi allows me to get a finer mist for distance working...and for another effect I will explain later in the build...when I simply want to catch the hi-lites on a surface...without the hard edges of dry brushing.

Adding any form of clear to a mix is a no no for me...any clear's I may use are always applied as an overlay...my reasoning being...all paints have a balanced chemistry...and additives (thinners apart) can upset that balance dramatically...and rob me of the finish I want.

On your 'metallic sheen' point...something I often do with metals when finished with paint...is to give then a coat of matt varnish...any sheen I require is then returned using either my finger tip...a cotton bud...or a make up brush in the form of a buffing tool...I have employed graphite and metal pigments at other times...and metal waxes also have a place in my tool box.

 

I hope this goes some way to answering your questions...but...please understand...the way I work is second nature to me...personal in it's inception and application.

 

And don't you even think about lifting that engine of yours.

Edited June 25, 2021 by silver911

[Codger]

I thank you for sound, comprehensive replies to my points. Certainly your results speak for themselves and I make no attempt to divert your thinking.

Builders such as Andy J and maybe a few others have certainly learned that first hand.

[silver911]

16 hours ago, kpnuts said:

Great work mate 

Many thanks mate...looks like only you and Mr C are along for the ride now 😄

[harveyb258]

Looking good Ron.

Painting/weathering has never been my strong point, unfortunately, so your masterclass of different techniques is valuable learning.

I'm looking forward to my next lesson (the last time I said that must have been 40 odd yrs ago).

14 hours ago, silver911 said:

And don't you even think about lifting that engine of yours.

+1

 

Cheers, H

[rjfk2002]

Really fascinating work Ron! Thanks for sharing all the detail behind it. It’s super helpful. I can’t wait to see how the layers build

[silver911]

2 hours ago, rjfk2002 said:

Really fascinating work Ron! Thanks for sharing all the detail behind it. It’s super helpful. I can’t wait to see how the layers build

Your welcome Rich...always a pleasure.

Seeing the layers build is what makes this way of working fun...and that's what modelling should always be about.

 

Best

 

Ron

[silver911]

6 hours ago, harveyb258 said:

Looking good Ron.

Painting/weathering has never been my strong point, unfortunately, so your masterclass of different techniques is valuable learning.

I'm looking forward to my next lesson (the last time I said that must have been 40 odd yrs ago).

+1

 

Cheers, H

Hi H,

I tend to look on my techniques as being other than weathering...more to do with injecting a bit of 'life/reality' if you will.

Whilst not to everyone's taste...I hope there is a little bit within my techniques that appeals to all...and they accept them based on that alone...and choose to use only what they feel will help them achieve the results they want in their own personal build.

 

Cheers

 

Ron

[Pouln]

Keep it coming, Ron. Can’t get enough of your teachings.

[Mumbly]

Hi Ron,

 

Sorry to go back a bit in the thread.  You mentioned that you used split pins for your banjo connectors.  Where do you get them?  I assume they are 0.8mm shaft diameter with a 1mm eye.

 

Thanks

 

Tony

[silver911]

9 minutes ago, Mumbly said:

Hi Ron,

 

Sorry to go back a bit in the thread.  You mentioned that you used split pins for your banjo connectors.  Where do you get them?  I assume they are 0.8mm shaft diameter with a 1mm eye.

 

Thanks

 

Tony

Here you go Tony...treasure trove.....http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/split_pins.htm

 

Ron

[Mumbly]

Bookmarked

 

Thanks

 

Tony

[silver911]

2 hours ago, Pouln said:

Keep it coming, Ron. Can’t get enough of your teachings.

Mundane things like life got in the way Poul...should have more progress to show in a couple of days.

 

Ron

[harveyb258]

8 hours ago, silver911 said:

Mundane things like life got in the way

It seems to have a bad habit of doing that, doesn't it???   A familiar tale to us all, no doubt.

 

9 hours ago, Mumbly said:

Bookmarked

Me too. Thanks Ron.

 

Cheers, H

[silver911]

9 minutes ago, harveyb258 said:

It seems to have a bad habit of doing that, doesn't it???   A familiar tale to us all, no doubt.

 

Me too. Thanks Ron.

 

Cheers, H

That site...along with Hiroboy.....https://www.hiroboy.com/.....and this one.....https://prime-miniatures.co.uk/.....are real life savers for fixtures and fittings...and all offer solid customer service and help...making them very useful resources for that extra bit of detail when needed.

[harveyb258]

Thanks Ron.

Have been a regular and happy customer with both for many years.

[PHIL B]

Great stuff Ron. Its all about layers eh? I wouldn't call your technique weathering either. More like bringing out the natural colouring/sheens of the bare metal. I've always found it really difficult to get a realistic finish on plastic parts which are meant to represent cast, forged, machined & sheet metal parts. I'm hooked already.

 

Phil

 

 

[silver911]

4 hours ago, PHIL B said:

Great stuff Ron. Its all about layers eh? I wouldn't call your technique weathering either. More like bringing out the natural colouring/sheens of the bare metal. I've always found it really difficult to get a realistic finish on plastic parts which are meant to represent cast, forged, machined & sheet metal parts. I'm hooked already.

 

Phil

 

 

Yep...all about layers in this technique Phil...and...as you rightly say...it's about trying to replicate the surface and colouring differences of metals.

Turning plastic into 'metal' is way easier these days...when I first started to develop this technique there were very few metal shades available on the market...basically...silver...gunmetal and steel...now you can get pretty much any shade you want...if 'out of a bottle' works for you.

I prefer to try an introduce my own shades and effects...much more fun IMHO.

 

Ron

[silver911]

Right...time to lay out the way I work my metals...each step follows straight on from the previous unless otherwise stated.

Having shown the basic engine block in it's base shades...now comes the first of the four stages...the 'scrub coat' (as explained at the beginning of this thread).

I mixed up some oils to a shade that seemed appropriate...Old Holland Neutral Tint + Cool Grey and a little W&N Transparent White...and applied this all over the engine block...here...as I explained at the start of this thread...the key is to get it into every crevice and detail...if you don't it will come back and bite you later by standing out like a sore thumb...as it's primary function is to enhance said detail...and...secondly...to introduce a stain to the base colour...which will reflect the metal shade...as you will note from the pictures...there is absolutely no finesse to how its applied...hence the term 'scrub' coat...

 

 

With this done we turn to thinning it back (again this term was explained in the opening post of this thread)...and for this I turn to my favourite tool...the make-up brushes (shown in the pic).

Now it is simply a matter of removing the excess oil paint...the aim being to leave it in the crevices and detail...whilst revealing the altered shade of metal which is caused by the oil paint 'staining the base colour.

To achieve this (thinning back) you simply draw the brush across the surface...keeping the brush parallel to it and not 'into' it...do this from every angle/direction but...you must keep wiping the brush off on paper towel every few strokes...otherwise you will just move the paint around...and not remove it !

 

A pic with the make-up brushes first...

 

 

And once the oil paint is thinned back with the brushes I then employ make-up sponges and sticks... this allows me to get to places the brush didn't quite reach...  

 

 

The final stage is about returning a lighter shade to the hi-lites...top of the detail and the edges...and for this it is simply a matter of good old fashioned 'dry' brushing...building it slowly to get it where you want...

 

 

This now will be left to dry tonight...then I will set about painting the blue areas tomorrow...and will then adjust the whole with further dry brushing to tie it together...and then it's down to painting the hose joints and any details such as the rocker cover lettering etc.

 

The next pics show a few pieces I also did today...using the same techniques and materials as the main block...

 

 

All of the shown parts are far from finished with...I tend to enhance pieces as the assembly progresses...that way I can get the balance between colours more exact.

 

Hope this has provided a little insight into how I work...and would be interested in your thoughts.

 

Ron

 

[JeroenS]

My thoughts: wow... Very nice tutorial. I especially like the hexagonal piece, I have no idea what it is but the larger inner surface shows so much subtle variations in the colour.... 

[silver911]

Many thanks Jeroen...and pleased you like the explanations and results so far.

 

That hexagonal piece is the rear engine bulkhead.

 

Ron

[CrazyCrank]

Very much more convincing than by using Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color  👏

[Pouln]

2 hours ago, silver911 said:

The final stage is about returning a lighter shade to the hi-lites...top of the detail and the edges...and for this it is simply a matter of good old fashioned 'dry' brushing...building it slowly to get it where you want...

That is already looking great. 
Question regarding the dry-brushing. What kind of paint do you use here?