Pat Hughes Aussie Ace - Spitfire MkI X4009 AZ*Q - Eduard 1/48 ***FINISHED***

[Ray_W]

15 hours ago, Johnson said:

Bit of a minefield Ray!

Charlie,

 

Isn't that the truth!! 

 

I've cut the masks ready to apply with some good light tomorrow.

 

 

I show the Olfa Cutter (useless for most work in 1/48) and my dividers with the sharpened point (very useful in 1/48). The point is sharpened to a knife edge. One day I will buy myself something more sophisticated, but that little set of dividers continues to do a good job like here cutting all but the largest roundel outside diameters. Even the the 5" (1/48 2.6 mm diameter) fuselage centres were done with these. 

 

In terms of markings, working out what Pat's aircraft would have from one grainy photo and other 234 Squadron aircraft around the mid-August to early September period is challenging. I decided to go very standard with the main wing - upper wing (the easy one) 56" Type B, the underside 50" Type A. The underside decals that I removed were, according to DK,  40" in the 50" standard position.  I am tempted to do the underside roundel as 40", but in a more outboard position. Who knows? Maybe best just stick with the standard 50" as my masks are ready to apply (Update: decision made - 40" outboard it will be). As for the fuselage roundels, the photo appears to show a roundel smaller than the 35" plus 7" wide yellow for 49" so I decided on the 25" plus 5" yellow for 35".  This agrees with DK.

 

I cut out the masks for the fin flashes using the decals as a guide. When measured each band works out at a 2.8 mm, a full size 136 mm or just over 5". They should be 7" (178 mm) or 3.7 mm wide so I cut some tape of the correct width to form up on the fin. The Eduard work out at 6". I know we're splitting hairs, but if I'm making masks I may as well correct them OR was there a fin flash with 6" width colour bands that I do not know about? (Update: I have since read that 5" was also in use although the manufacturer's drawing specified 7" source Goulding from the Ducimus publication).

 

The DK red looks like it would be a very nice rendition for a RAF aircraft circa 1930-1938. Just too bright for Dull Red. The Eduard Dull Blue is what I would like to achieve.  So tomorrow some mixes. My preferred mix is from the often quoted Tamiya mixes. Apologies for who come up with these in the first place. Not sure who that was. I have seen these mixes quoted on BM and LSP. Also probably Hyperscale et al if I search.

 

Version 1.

Dull Roundel Red : 75% Flat Red (XF-7), 25% Red Brown (XF-64)

Roundel Blue : 75% Flat Blue (XF-8), 25% Flat Black (XF-1)

Roundel Yellow : 95% Flat Yellow (XF-3), 5% Flat Red (XF-7)

 

Version 2,

Dull Roundel Red - Mix of 75% flat Red (XF-7 ), 25% NATO Brown (XF-68)

Blue - Mix of 95% flat Blue (XF-8), 5% flat Black (XF-1)

Yellow - Flat Yellow (XF-3) with a tiny amount of flat Red (XF-7)

 

My preference is the second version although I do tend to use a little more black than the quoted 5% in the blue mix. Or did I use Version 1 the last time with a little less black? Red Brown or NATO Brown? Mmm can't recall. I tend to adjust them to what I like. I'll let you know what was my final mix when done.

 

Ray

 

 

Edited September 30, 2020 by Ray_W
Updated information

[Retired Bob]

10 hours ago, Ray_W said:

Irrespective of the serendipitous behaviour of the new thickened varnish on the Eduard decals, that some can remove, these decals really let down an otherwise great kit.

There has been comments on Eduards new decals, and there will be an advice article in their October news letter on how to deal with them, A bit late since the kit has been out for a couple of months.

Notwithstanding the decal problem (you started it, using serendipitous )  The camouflage is looking really good, I must have ago at diy masks, I bought a rotary cutter tool at Telford last year, it would be ideal for this.  My Wing Leader Spitfire book came today, great photos.

[Ray_W]

Let's get those National markings done.

 

I applied my freshly cut masks and first painted the white ensuing not too much white at the mask edge to prevent leaving a potential ridge or a nasty visible white line when the masks are removed. Everything was thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinner. Just normal paint thinning - not too thin to limit bleed under the masks.

 

 

I did go for 40" roundels towards the wing tip per the Ducimus reference. 

 

 

Left it about an hour and then masked over the white areas and sprayed the yellow (Tamiya XF-4 Yellow with a touch of XF-7 Red. I could of added the slightest amount more) and the Dull Red (Tamiya 75% XF-7 Red and 25% XF-68 NATO Brown).

 

 

Left it another hour and then masked and sprayed the Dull Blue. Here I did change from the published mix values and went for 90% XF-8 Blue and 10% XF-1 Flat Black. 

 

Peeled off the masks and the job is done. Standard Battle of Britain 7" wide colour bands in the fin flash.

 

 

Need to fix that centre red dot on the port fuselage side. Starboard side finished nicely.

 

 

The 40" outboard roundels do add a little interest.

 

 

I am so glad I decided to go for the painted finish. Here is a comparison with DK Decals on the left and Eduard kit supply on the right.

 

 

More decals now - squadron codes and other paraphernalia. Wish me luck!  Should I paint the wing walk stripes? 🤔Maybe!

 

Ray

[Johnson]

Much better. The decals really were horrible in comparison.

 

Do you use white under the upper wing blue and red to enhance the colour and thus you can use a thinner layer of blue/red paint?

 

1 hour ago, Ray_W said:

Should I paint the wing walk stripes?

I've been thinking about that. Stix did on his Spitfire in the STGB and got a good result. Those decals can often lead to silvering in the forward wing panel join I've found and painting them would avoid that. But the challenge (for me anyway) would be getting a consistent line width.

[Ray_W]

2 hours ago, Johnson said:

Do you use white under the upper wing blue and red to enhance the colour and thus you can use a thinner layer of blue/red paint?

Just a habit I got into for no real reason. I expect with the simple blue and red marking the coverage would be OK. There probably is no requirement for the white base and thereby you eliminate the concern with the white on the edges.  Mind you, it does provide a consistent base to work to. The paint is thin anyway so this not so much the reason. If anything, it is not as thin as normal to reduce the likelihood of bleeding. I'll keep doing it though as it seems to work for me. With my F4U a couple of months ago, I had a brain snap and put on too much white getting the show through on the edge of the stars and bars. Not that bad, but bad enough that I ripped off the finish and redone it.  

 

I put a coat of gloss (GX-112) over the top of the markings. I am always amazed how this pulls it all together and the marks look really nice. You can see I fixed the red dot in the port side fuselage roundel.

 

 

2 hours ago, Johnson said:

But the challenge (for me anyway) would be getting a consistent line width.

I can get the consistent line width. I first cut some tape for the walkway line at the finished width. Lay it on the model, get it right and then mask up to  both edges. I can then remove the walkway line leaving, hopefully, a narrow consistent line.

 

In this case, I have decided to use the decals and will trim the carrier film. The trick being not to cut through the backing paper. Just cut through the carrier film and then remove it after soaking the decal in water. We'll see. Decals early tomorrow before work.

 

Ray

[Stew Dapple]

That turned out a treat Ray

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

[Retired Bob]

Great result painting the national markings Ray, looking good with the gloss coat on. 

[Bugle07]

She's looking lovely Ray, and thanks for the walk through on masking. Will be borrowing that soon...

 

Geoff 

[Rabbit Leader]

Really sensational Ray, truly top shelf modelling. 

Just wanted to ask you, do you know how the GX100 performs over other paint mediums? 

I take it that using Gunze's lacquer paint and Levelling thinner prior would not be an issue, however do you know how it performs over surfaces painted with other brands of paint & thinner? 

Example - If I painted a model using Model Master's or Humbrol enamels / acrylics is the GX100 clear too hot for those types of paint surfaces?

 

Cheers and again.. great modelling.. Dave 

 

[Ray_W]

7 hours ago, Retired Bob said:

Great result painting the national markings Ray, looking good with the gloss coat on. 

Thanks Bob, much improved.

 

6 hours ago, Bugle07 said:

Will be borrowing that soon...

 

Geoff, thanks for the kind remarks and hope there is something of value. 

 

3 hours ago, Rabbit Leader said:

I take it that using Gunze's lacquer paint and Levelling thinner prior would not be an issue, however do you know how it performs over surfaces painted with other brands of paint & thinner? 

Dave,

 

I have used the GX-100 and 112 over Tamiya and Gunze Aqueous, Gunze Lacquers and AK Real Color without any problem. Similarly, over the totally different chemistry of Lifecolor and the AK Air Series acrylics. Also over enamel and oil washes and filters.  Not with the enamel paints. I have not used those for some time, they were back in my Future/Pledge days. 

 

Some comments:

 

 The GX with Mr Color Leveling Thinner gives me the best finish of everything I have tried although I do apply in thin coats, moist for self levelling and do not flood. It is surprising how thinned it is. I think lucky if 15% paint. I have tried it with standard Mr Color Thinner although the retarder in Mr Color Leveling Thinner really assists with self levelling. GX and Mr Color Leveling Thinner are a fantastic combination. 

 

A heavy application of the GX's does reactivate the colour coats underneath when using the Tamiya and Gunze Aqueous and AK Real Color so you need to be careful with physical handling and again do not flood. If you do, make sure you have that hair dryer close by to flash off the thinner. I can decal 12 hours after application no problem. If you mask on the same day you can get get discolouration in the paint finish under the tape. This seems to hide under finish coats.  All of this does not seem to be an issue with the pure lacquers like the Mr Color range.  Better discipline in all cases is to allow 24 hours before masking then never a problem, All dry with a very tough, consistent, thin coat.

 

By the way, one of the great advantage of using the above and Mr Color Leveling Thinner is how quick the surface gets to touch dry, meaning I can spray a model without fancy holding just lyng in the palm of my hand. Set it aside for 15-20 minutes and flip it over and do the other side. Dust is not a problem. It dries so darn quick.  

 

With paints that do not use similar chemistry I allow very long drying times like 3 days before coating. I apply the coats thin, again moist for self levelling but not flooding, and use a hair dryer to flash off the solvent. Frankly, GX is not my preferred. I then prefer Tamiya X-22 or Gunze H-101 using their designed for less aggressive alcohol based thinners with a little Tamiya retarder.  Or alternatively even a close match like Lifecolor gloss clear. 

 

I see no reason why the GX will not work with the enamels with sufficient curing time before use although mixing the curing type alkyd resins (enamels) with a paint that uses a solvent to just to get a pigment to the surface does concern me. 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ray 

 

 

[Rabbit Leader]

Thanks so much for the detailed reply Ray. Looks like a product that would be handy to have in one's modelling kit bag.

I have and love using Gunze's Levelling thinner so will get some of the GX100 and go to work with it. 

Cheers.. Dave 

[Ray_W]

Finished the bulk of the decals with the exception of the wing walk wording and the gun patches. I'll do those tomorrow. 

 

 

The DK Decals went down a treat with Mr Mark Softer and then Mr Mark Setter. I had to use use a couple of applications of the Softer and press with a hot towel to capture the rivet detail. I see in the following image I still see need to get the rivets in the bottom of the "Z". In hindsight, a strong decal softening agent might of been the go, but it's OK to creep up on a good result. The DK are strong, have excellent adhesion and the carrier film disappears.  I made the serial number "X4009" from others on the DK sheet. I was looking forward to using the 234 Squadron motif, but that will not be needed as it is on the entry door and I will be displaying the door open. 

 

 

I used the Future method, as pinned in BM Decals section, for all the stencilling.

 

Go here if you have not seen it already:

 

 

I think it is one of the greatest modelling techniques I have learned in the last 2 years. Thank you again Steve @stevehnz .

 

Quick, easy and a great result.

 

 

I started to play around with the wing walk decals and gave them away. Decided to mask and paint. Here's my process: 

 

I first cut a strip of tape of the required width as a template. I used the width of the Eduard decals. 

 

 

 

I lay a strip of masking tape on what will be the edge of the walkway line using the panel line as a guide and then butt the template up against it. You can see I have finished the main spar already.

 

 

I then marry up another strip of masking tape against the template strip.

 

 

Remove the template and it's ready.

 

 

All ready for a little extra overspray masking.

 

 

It finished up nicely. The panel line groove shadow is exaggerating the width. 

 

 

One last job was to finish the exhausts. The kits exhausts, sink marks filled, aftermarket not required.

 

 

Getting close to the finish line.

 

Ray

 

 

 

 

 

[stevehnz]

That looks brilliant Ray, I've not kept up with ths, far too much detail for a gash builder like me but enjoying it now you're approaching the end game. I'm pleased you found the decal bedding thing worked well, it sure is a game changer imho.

Steve.

[Ray_W]

3 minutes ago, stevehnz said:

it sure is a game changer imho

I must agree. Thanks again for the tip.

Ray

[Ray_W]

FINISHED!

 

What a beautiful kit and I think a fitting tribute to Pat and the aircraft in which he made the ultimate sacrifice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gallery post here:

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235076190-battle-of-britain-80th-anniversary-gallery/&do=findComment&comment=3843340

 

Thanks again to the hosts for your enthusiastic involvement and everyone's participation. A very enjoyable and yet, in some ways, solemn build.

 

We'll see you on the next build.

 

Ray

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 4, 2020 by Ray_W
Updated information

[GREG DESTEC]

Excellent Spitfire Ray 👍

 

Very well modelled. A fitting tribute to the Few and Pat Hughes in particular. The Eduard kit really does appear to be the best issue of the Mk1 Spitfire  on the market. 

 

Cheers Greg

[Ray_W]

2 minutes ago, GREG DESTEC said:

The Eduard kit really does appear to be the best issue of the Mk1 Spitfire  on the market. 

Thanks Greg and yes it is my pick as the No.1 Mk. I in 1/48 having built all three of the new tool Mk. I's (Airfix, Tamiya, Eduard) in the last last year. I like them all, but the Eduard for me comes out on top.

 

Ray

[Valkyrie]

Just wow 

[Stew Dapple]

She really is a beauty Ray, well done  

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

[Ray_W]

4 minutes ago, Stew Dapple said:

She really is a beauty

Stew, Thank you. This Eduard kit is just superb. Looking at the aircraft on the bench, I do not think any kit has captured that Spitfire look quite like it. The rivets and panel lines add some texture to improve the realism without being over done. I did not use a panel line wash other than to pick some detail, just going with the black undercoat which naturally shadows the recessed areas. The whole kit is done well, but  there are some things I especially like. The undercarriage and the sit of the aircraft and that front canopy section and armoured windscreen.  The kit exhausts. Eduard's approach to the gun port openings.  Lovely. 

[Rabbit Leader]

That’s really lovely Ray and a wonderful way to honour Australia’s highest scoring Battle of Britain ace. Looks good from every angle shown. Two big thumbs from me mate. 
Cheers and well modelled.. Dave 

[Ray_W]

37 minutes ago, Rabbit Leader said:

That’s really lovely Ray and a wonderful way to honour Australia’s highest scoring Battle of Britain ace. Looks good from every angle shown. Two big thumbs from me mate. 
Cheers and well modelled.. Dave 

Thanks Dave, thanks also for the support through the build. 

[Johnson]

Beautiful kit and very well done by you. Really excellent finish and weathering, I love what you've achieved on the underside.

[The Rib Man]

Ray,

 

That turned out amazing.  Your build is a great inspiration and guide for those of us with Spitfire kits waiting in the drawer.  Very nicely done.

[Ray_W]

2 hours ago, Johnson said:

I love what you've achieved on the underside.

Thanks Charlie, my weathering is usually fairly subtle, it is always more noticeable on the light coloured underside.  For a change of pace, next machine will be a heavily weathered RAAF Desert P-40 in the MTO Group.

 

7 minutes ago, The Rib Man said:

Your build is a great inspiration and guide for those of us with Spitfire kits waiting in the drawer.

Thank you, I hope I see some of your Spits soon.