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Sunna

Which paints to use?

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17 minutes ago, IJNfan said:

 How do you mean perfomance is better than with Tamiya's? do they have a better finish or ...?

Mr Hobby Aqueous Color is very similar to Tamiya. Advantages are minor but significant enough for me to go there first. These are (1) smoother finish with finer pigment (largely perception), (2) not tied to a matt finish as the starting point (Gunze semi-gloss) (3) often a good colour rendition off the shelf so no mixing and (4) retains full compatibility with Tamiya and the two brands can mixed together.

 

However, if you are worried about smell, and I can see why because I still use Mr Color Levelling Thinner with these aqueous paints (Tamiya and Gunze), then go for Lifecolor. You still need a chemical mask. Even with good ventilation, I continue to be amazed how quickly masks block with paint dust. 

 

And just to confuse matters further, I used AK Real Colors recently on a build and they were brilliant. Some debate on color accuracy depending on the subject. Certainly worthy of consideration. They also have compatibility with the Gunze and Tamiya aqueous range but are peculiar in that they do not wash out in water. They have very little smell. I'd say they use an acrylic binder but must use an ethanol based solvent as a minimum. I used the product with their thinners and was impressed. They have a Japanese range.

 

36 minutes ago, IJNfan said:

I would be limited because of the "enamel" finish which on the revell's I really disliked and most of all the drying time is long.

The "enamels" have come a long way.  My preference is still for a paint with an acrylic binder be it using a water, ethanol or more aggressive lacquer thinner solvent but, the solvents being used with today's enamels can lend themselves to faster curing times than experienced before. Hopefully some of the enamel guys will chime in. 

 

This reference is a good starting point if you have not captured it already:

 

https://www.cybermodeler.com/color/ija_table.shtml

 

As always, check and form your own opinion. There is also a section on model paint in J-aircraft.com. I think it is a little out of date.

 

Ray

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

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1 hour ago, IJNfan said:

As for Enamels, my first painted model was painted with Revell enamels, I never sprayed enamels through my airbrush, but the revell enamels do not have the finish  that the tamiya's have as the Tamiya's just blend with the plastic while the enamels from revell visibly are put on the plastic, I hope the distinction is clear enough. I am afraid if I would use colorcoats that I would be limited because of the "enamel" finish which on the revell's I really disliked and most of all the drying time is long.

Used Revell enamels once -never again. When I came back into modelling I started using acrylics, but after a while went back to enamels (Xtracolor, Colourcoats and, in a pinch, Humbrol). It is perfectly possible to get as good or better finish as Tamiya, but it takes a while to refine technique thinning ratios etc. The longer drying time is true (but this is a plus for things like mottling) but the drying time is perhaps not as long as you think - properly thinned and sprayed, you could mask Colourcoats in 3-6 hours. But I do suspect getting them from the Netherlands may be difficult or expensive. 

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

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Seems like a reasonable place to jump in, my subject has been covered a little thus far on this thread.

 

I use acrylics in my modern aircraft modeling, Tamiya and Model Master sprayed through a Paasche H or VL.

 

I have never used undercoats before and have rarely had trouble with paint pulling up after masking. 

 

I use Tamiya masking tape pressed onto my work mat about 5 times to reduce the level of tack and always wash the model with soap and water before painting.

 

BUT, today after removing tape from the rear end of an F-4 it pulled up about an inch of grey paint. I have not had this happen before and I am assuming that there was some release agent left behind that the washing missed.

 

So it raised several questions in my mind.

 

What are the advantages of priming the surface. Does it prevent this from happening. What primer is recommended.

 

And it has started me to also ask, why do I use acrylics. I like to wash up in water and there is less chemical involved as a result. I last used enamels when I was a kid building kits in the 70's but maybe its time to reconsider. My only concern at this stage being airbrush cleanup.

 

Thanks for any thoughts,

 

cheers for now.

 

 

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I forgot to add that before I primered my paint mule, I did wipe it down with a small makeup type pad soaked in 99% isopropyl alcohol.

 

 

Chris

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