1/144 Millenium falcon Build #1 by KP

[Konrad Popławski]

Hello again.

I continue my journey with the gun ports. I have finished soldering one of the gun ports. Still I need to add to it some details like wires and other equipment. Here you see the size comparison between the original part (F/12) and photoetched greenstrawberry:

 

 

I really like the Bandai gun ports mounting solution. It really helps when you can dismount parts and mount them again quickly without using glue. Modifying part F12 enabled me to keep using this mounting system:

 

 

 

I could not resist myself to check how the gun port interior will look after installing the clear glass window, ad to be honest I was disappointed at this time. The clear glass (part A/15) is sooo thick. I understand it’s for safety reasons – gunner needs protection against TIE fighter laser shotsJ. Unfortunately, it does not come along with visibility…. Its  apitty that Bandai did not included solid gun port windwo frame. I need to try to do something with it. Here you see me in the middle of the process:

 

 

And here is the final result:

 

 

I will need to do some fine sanding just before painting but I do thing that it looks so much better now. Friend of mine is working on Bandai TIE fighter 1/72 and he borrowed me frontal windows frame. If you turn this part over you can get something that is quite similar to part I luck.  I was even considering coping it using silicon and epoxy method. Since I do not have experience with coping such complex shapes and what is more important here proper equipment (like vacuum chamber) I decided not to do it. Even If I successfully copied these parts, I still need to heavily modify them, as they do not fit to the mounting.  I addition to all of that I do not like octagonal shape of the cantered window. It simply does not much with oval window from cockpit window frame.

 

 

Here You can see tools I have been using to cut off the windows:

 

 

I even created some really handy tool that helped me a lot when i was drilling holes:

 

 

Finally, I wanted to show you how it would look after installation:

 

\

 

 

 

 

I would like to add windows to my frame. I would for example use TAMIYA 70126 Plastic Plate 0.2 mm. Does any of you know with glue should I use to stick it to the frame? I am pretty sure the standard extra tin cement won’t help here (it will hit the transparency). In addition, I look for strong glue.

Now I need to finish soldering the other gun ports and prepare second window frame.

 

 

 

[Shin]

19 hours ago, Konrad Popławski said:

Does any of you know with glue should I use to stick it to the frame? I am pretty sure the standard extra tin cement won’t help here (it will hit the transparency). In addition, I look for strong glue.

 Model looking great so far! I would personally use PVA glue if the area didn't have much chance of being handled, but if you want something stronger they make a fog-free super glue (CA), or you could also potentially try UV activated bonder. On the latter test to see if yours will yellow after curing. May not matter if you can hide the attachment points. 

 

almost forgot - they have 2 part clear epoxy as well, but may come with the same yellowing risks as well. 

Edited January 8, 2021 by Shin
missing info

[Mike]

I've just played catch-up with this, and I'm really impressed with both the detail and the amount of information you're sharing with us during the process, even down to sharing the CAD files for your new instrument panels.  Now all we need is some modelling skills to match yours! Keep up the good work

[Circloy]

On 07/01/2021 at 22:09, Konrad Popławski said:

Does any of you know with glue should I use to stick it to the frame? I am pretty sure the standard extra tin cement won’t help here (it will hit the transparency). In addition, I look for strong glue.

Canopy glue as used by modellers of radio-controlled aircraft. Probably a variant of PVA glue but much stronger than the normal stuff & it dries clear.

 

[Konrad Popławski]

I am glad You like it. - it really keps me motivated.

 

After cutting gun ports window frames I decided to focus on quad canons. Bandai did not give You any movement options to it. I just simply do not like it since I want to put Finn in the gun port - it would look to weird as the guns aims only in a forward direction. Basisly he will only use the force to aim as he can’t even see what he is firing to. . 🤪

This is a simple representation of Millenium falcon quad canon combat specifications:

 

 

Adding a rotation will drastically improve the ability to look inside the gun port. Therefore, it is not only the matter to make the model look more realistic but it really adds some cool the display options. Speaking of rotation here is a nice render, which perfectly shows the movement logic of quad cannons:

 

 

The quad laser cannon is mounted on a gimbal fork which allows it to rotate in almost every direction.

 

My plan is to:

1) to add a bit side-to-side movement - I know its not the way the gun moves, but on the other way it will be quite handy when You want to inspect the interior of the gun port. Lets treat it as a bonus

2) to add up-adn down movment patter,

3) to add a rottation.

 

No matter how good You are or how good tools You have You will definitely face some unwanted material bending or material lose.

 

 

Just don’t panic I know it does look bad even the quality f the above picture is bad (sorry I did not checked it before I moved on).

I reshaped it a bit (You need to put something inside this "Y" otherwise, it will surely brake).

 

 

In the jar, there is a mixture of glue and cutter frame pieces. This a perfect putty. Once it dry it will perfectly merge with the part. I will be the same color, and what is here the most important it will be hard as the original part.

The only drawback is a time it needs lots of time to cure - at least 12h I think. Besides its much better to add it in a couple of times rather than do it in a one go (each time sanding it if its necessary).

 

 

Here You can see the result after sanding and scribbling with the knife:

 

 

I did also drilled the barrel outlets. Yes I know, the original quad lasers look different but to be honest I prefer this – at least for now. Maybe later I will modify it.

So that is how the quad lasers gun looks at this point of modification:

 

 

 

 

 

By the way – I did added to the first post remaining photos off frame “F” and 2 main hull parts. In the kit box there are two identical frames “F” if You like to know.

So first 2 points of my list has been covered, Now comes the hard task - the gimbal fork...

 

Edited January 20, 2021 by Konrad Popławski

[Konrad Popławski]

Quad laser gimbal fork... here is the way I did it:

 

1) First I needed and reliable core. I have used some hypodermic needles with various sizes. They are  good for this task as they are hard and can be bended in same time. They are made with stainless steel and are super cheap. I did glue them with epoxy in order to achieve strong bond. The only drawback is a time to cure the epoxy minimum 12H (https://www.uhu.com/en/product-page/epoxy-ultra-strong/4453).

 

 

2) I have cut into two pieces part F/6 and carved the corridor needed for my core to move in it.

 

 

3) Later I selled the core with some tinny piece of frame to keep my core in a place. the key is to reduce as much any unwanted slack. I have also added oval styrene cap (3mm diameter).

The metal core at the back has 2 tasks:

a) not to let main core to move outside provided corridor.

b) secure rotation movement of the whole quad canon.

 

 

4) As You can see here I have glued in my core with epoxy. The another small oval styrene cap (2,5 mm diameter) has very important task. It holds the epoxy in a place and gives nice and even surface for a rotation. For additional reinforcement i have also added super this styrene plate to be sure that the core will not move out form a desired pace.

 

 

Its a good idea to keep the part downside to let the gravity hold the epoxy in its place.

 

 

 

After 18H I have decided to check my gimbal fork. It works as it should to .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next I will focuse on optic fibes fastening to the photo edged gun port chamber.

 

[Konrad Popławski]

Hello again.

For a start would like to apologize for my slow pace of work. I am the kind of person that is willing to spend a lot of time on planning before acting. In addition I cannot devote as much time for this build as I would like to, but I will try to do all in my power to keep it going. I do not want to do any compromise between quality and speed of this build. This build is just for me so I don’t need to hurry up.

 

Last time I have suggested that I will do some optic fiber wiring. But I need to change my plans and will focus on the corridor between gun ports. As You will see below the space between the gun ports is quite significant and I defiantly need to do something about it.

 

 

 

 

So my plan was to create something similar to that I know from the movie. Simple styrene tube for my taste is not enough 😜. He are some reference photos:

 

 

 

 

 

I did some 3D visualization of what I am going to achieve. It was obvious that I will not be able to do it 100% accurate in this scale. So I could not avoid some simplifications. In addition I have made some changes consciously predicting benefits of it in the and. For example I would like to have more light coming though it to me the ship more interesting. In my opinion in this way It will give some interesting illusion that the is more inside the ship.

 

 

 

 

 

AS I don’t have 3D printer and I am quite skeptic of its quality at budget bucket I decide to literally manually print it layer by layer. I decided to use 0.5mm styrene shits. I had borrowed a super handy tool for this process. It’s extremely useful for this kind of work. I cannot afford this but If You are please consider buying it ( I does cost about 5x this Bandai kit).

 

 

It quickly produces vast amount of rings of dimmetion you desire. I needed 2 kinds of rings:

• outer diameter 14 mm and inner diameter 8 mm
• outer diameter 14 mm and inner diameter 10 mm

 

 

To make fine quarter rings I simply followed the markings on the cutting mat.

 

 

The rings were glued with tamyia extra thin cement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

End the end (after some fine sanding and sharp blade scraping) i received this:

 

 

Next I will focus on creating the ladder and the light module for this corridor and a part of gun ports. It must block the light well and be smart enough to fit well in place without a glue at this stage of my build.

Edited February 22, 2021 by Konrad Popławski

[Pete in Lincs]

Fabulous work as always, Konrad. I can see that you are enjoying yourself.

[Stephen W]

As always top work  

[Konrad Popławski]

Thank You my friends.

 

I have realized that I did not upload the pictures presenting the corridor mounted (for now temporally on some blue tack) into the ship hull:

 

 

 

 

 

According to this source (I have used some pictures previously from here when I was presenting You quad cannons modification): http://millenniumfalcona.blogspot.com/2016/09/quad-laser-cannons.html both gunpits and a tube with a ladder in it would never fit inside the ship.

 

 

And I must admit it’s true. Luckily thanks to green strawberry photo eched gun ports chambers I managed to save some space and my corridor does not look too odd. Yes it it is truly too short, but I cannot help any more here. By the way Bandai included 1/144 scale statue (part A/23) which is very useful when it comes to scratch building parts in this scale.

 

 

 

Anyway, thanks for Your attention and kind words. I hope to keep making interesting content to you and I will appreciate any critic now or in future. It’s simply better to hear it now rather than after some real painting session.

 

 

[Konrad Popławski]

Hello again,

 

Holidays are always a good time :P. The day seems to be much longer and new ideas comes out a bit faster. I have decided to focus on the gun port light box and set myself a must have list while building it:

 

1) It must be super durable

- I do a lot of planning and testing. I need to be sure I will not destroy any of my job before I will take a brush loaded with paint into my hand.

 

2) It must be able to light up literally all the holes

- Some of the lights are located on the top edge of the gun port (literally next to window edge) and I really want to light them up nicely.

 

3) It must perfectly block any unwanted light leaks,

- The more I was sanding soldered joits of Greenstrawberry photo etch plates the welds were becoming smother and smother. However, this obviously at some point must has turned against me - some of unnecessary light leaks appeared and whole structure seems to become very fragile.

 

4) It must solve the problem with optic fibers mounting,

- I would like to use optic fibers with different blinking patterns just to add some spice. I need good and reliable mounting solution.

 

5) It must be small

- the space inside the ship is limited and I do need to really plan it carefully.

 

Having that all in my mind, I have invented the "armored" version of gun port.

 

 

Using thin styrene shits i was able to craft small pattern parts. Next this patters were tranfered to the appropriate matrial - PCB laminate. I vave choose this material because I really wanted to stick it well to the gun port brass.

To help myself positon parts well in place i have used epoxy. To increse the power of the epoxy and grały reducing the curing time I have baked parts in the kithcen stove:

 

 

 

 

Where I could I added new solder welds:

 

 

 

 

 

To help optic fibers rest in place gain I have used hypodermic needles and epoxy:

• for 0,25 mm optic fiber I have used 0,40 mm needels
• for 0,50 mm optic fiber I have used 0,90 mm needels

 

 

Additional benefit of using these needles was the creation of interesting optic fiber socket that looks well and adds variety to the panels inside the gun port.

 

I need to scrape off some of the matirial from (part E1/11 and A/15) to make a place for my reinforced gun port. The parts on the left side are already done so You can easy compare it with the undone parts on the right.  The additional  styrene parts served me as as a guide lines. In addition it nicely expanded the mounting surfaceo for my welded gunport.

 

 

 

I have used thick PCB laminate to create the nice base for the gunner seat. I intend to add a tinny led diode to imitate the screen. To power it up I need to create a small module

The process of removing unwanted copper can be divided into the following steps:

1) trim PCB laminate to the desired shape

2) use PCB marker to secure the part of copper foil You wish to stay on laminate

3) use sodium persulfate to remove any unwanted copper

4)   rinse the part in water

5) add thin solder mask to reinforce the copper and help electricity to move through it. In addition later it will secure the copper from oxidation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I did not glued the lid – it just lays on the proper position for this photo to give you the idea how it will look.

Next, I need to focus on the second gunport and create a light box module for the corridor between them.

 

Edited April 5, 2021 by Konrad Popławski

[Konrad Popławski]

Wow I have found some more spare time (again today - sic!)

So I decided to something qick - hull damage holes

 

As usuall I would like to share with some reference pictures:

 

Here You can see the vanila hull:

 

First think was to locate the master holes:

 

 

Next I started carwing and worked with details:

 

 

In the and I recived this:

 

 

 

I decided to close the holes with piece of styrene for a practical reason - in the end I need to paint the model and those gaps opened would look too werrind:

 

 

 

I believe these are the heavy laser hits. Maybe falcon’s shields were down and blasts passed thorough it hitting the bare armor.  Anyway, in my opinion the best way to achieve surface look melted is actually to... melt it. Moreover, as far I know thin cement is superb tool for this task. Therefore, after having carved the desired shape I carefully added cement to any uneven plastic particles. To emphasize the armor plates I carved the lines just near to the plates edges.

To end up a process I have sanded the edges of the damaged plates with some fine abrasive sponges

 

Here You can see all the tools I have been using too achieve this effect:

 

 

As I study the reference photos, I see lot of characteristic damage spots. I will try to deal with them now. I will try to speed up a bit my build process. Stay tuned.

 

Edited April 8, 2021 by Konrad Popławski

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

1 hour ago, Konrad Popławski said:

Moreover, as far I know thin cement is superb tool for this task.

I use the same method myself on Sci-fi/Armor builds. 

[Hunter Rose]

Some serious commitment to detail here! Excellent work, love the laser blast damage 

[Konrad Popławski]

Hellow again. The project is not dead 😜

 

A quick announcement before I proceed. 1/144 scale is quite demanding. I upgraded my workbench light sources (I have replaced old ones with new more efficient + new lamps  that allow me to focus the light better). The camera is still the same (smartphone - Samsung galaxy note 4). I have decided to double the resolution of my pictures and hope You will see the difference.

The topic of this update is the light box for the corridor joining the gun ports. I have spent quite o lot of time on planning how to do that. As You know I like to move on and off parts to test if I can or can’t do something. This requires me to build in a smart way – modules need to be durable and I need to be sure they will not fall apart in future when space inside a ship will be fulfilled with other stuff.

 

I decided to stick with the PCB laminate. I would like to benefit from its advantages:

·  It’s cheap

· It’s very durable (I use 1,5 mm and its super stiff)

·  It can be flexible and easy to fold (thin ones like 0,15 mm)

· It comes with the variety  of thickness

· It always perfectly blocks the light (as long as you maintain the coper foil on it)

 

So here are the pictures. For a start a quick glace of some initial parts

 

 

The backing epoxy glued parts speeded the process in some way. Due to the use of hard plastic  clamps I was forced to limit the temperature to 75C and the baking time was increased to 1H.

 

 

 

 

Then I was tiding my basement I have found some old non digital camera. It was a total garbage – absolute 0 value. Yet the camera body was packed with tinny screws which I found valuable to my project. To be honest I don’t even know where to get new such screws.

 

 

Here You can see the light module production. Lots of holes. Some of them will be just a widow while the others will help to mount it to the light box. The threads ware made with one of the screws. It was important to drill a big enough hole (but not to big) and then using some force and a tiny screwdriver make the screw perform the thread. Some of the screws need to shortened but it wasn't a problem at all to me.

 

 

I have used the same process which I did explained earlier to get rid of unwanted coper foil areas. It was necessary as I don’t want to have any short circuit in my electric circuit. Resistors will  be soldered into the wires. At this point I did not add any resistors. I will decide which use later. I want this light modules to be simple and easy to replace in case of failure.

 

 

 

The light source are little SMD LED diodes:

 

 

It’s hard to show You how bright they are. In te room was a lot of ambiet light. In reality the seems to be much brighter. I have test run 2 of them at below its potential (2,9V). To increase the light efficiency I will paint lightbox interior in some chrome color.

 

 

I use this small very handy power supply. I seems to be vary stable and alows You to precisely set voltage (every 0,01V). In addition to voltage settings You can esly see the demand (A),

 

 

Below let me present you the finished light box with light modules. Aa You see I will use 3 leds to light up the corridir entrance and 1 led to simulete corridor light system.

 

 

 

 

 

 

To combine this light box I need to modify my gun ports even more. There will be 2 screws that will hold this light box on the lower gun port. As you might spotted I did drill holes for a screwdriver in a light box.

 

 

On endig I will show you both gun ports "armor" done:

 

 

 

So this concludes this update. Next I will try to concetrate on the engine module.

 

Edited June 15, 2021 by Konrad Popławski

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

40 minutes ago, Konrad Popławski said:

Yet the camera body was packed with tinny screws which I found valuable to my project. To be honest I don’t even know where to get new such screws.

Possibly a computer or custom electronics store, someplace that caters to those that build their own computers or other electrical devices. I went and found these. 
 

https://www.amazon.com/Screws-Assortment-Hotetey-Glasses-Watches/dp/B07NKNCM8Q/ref=asc_df_B07NKNCM8Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309812340191&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5162845223048880135&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016367&hvtargid=pla-678152042097&psc=1

Edited June 14, 2021 by Corsairfoxfouruncle

[rockpopandchips]

So have just read though this and I an amazed the the level of detail your adding and your excellent build log. Inspirational work. 

[Konrad Popławski]

Hello!

 

Quote

Possibly a computer or custom electronics store, someplace that caters to those that build their own computers or other electrical devices. I went and found these. 

 

Thank You Corsairfoxfouruncle. I have found retailer who sells all sort of screws and nuts. Here I present have comprehensive table that shows standard dimensions of nuts:

 

Here  I used some of the purcheased standard M1.6 screws and nuts:

 

 

Anyway, I should get beck to may project. Last, time I mentioned that I would be working on engine compartment. If you look carefully on the image below You probably could notice the dust spots. Yes, my millennium falcon spent some time on the shelf.

Apart from that, I had some tough time trying to figure out how to do the engine light box.

 

 

 

I took serevel atempts to build the engine light box but none of them satisfied my taste. I need something reliable, tough, able to be dismounted

Finally, I got the idea, quite complexed yet I do believe interesting. Again I have used the PCB laminate.

 

 

 

Here You see the lower hull part after necessary conversions. First of all I needed to level the surface. On the corners I have installed M2 nuts to ensure the mounting of the light box.

To increase the strength of the structure I used some PCB laminate parts in various thicknesses and shapes.

The work was done in 2 steps:

a) securing the positioning of the part with the epoxy glue,

b) sealing any left gaps with the milliput.

The joint pipes were reinforced with epoxy glue. Any imperfecions and complex white "shelf" for blue transparent cover were casted from milliput super fine. I have spent some long hours carving the milliput and sanding the surface before I said to myself : "enough".

Probably just, before priming the inner section of the ship I will clean it a bit more - but is not very relevant, as it will not be visible after all.

 

 

 

Here You see the main parts of the engine light box (inner sait view):

 

 

and the outer sit view:

 

 

Finally You can see the output:

 

 

 

 

The parts (converted lower hull and engine light box) are fitted well - probably the screws and nuts are not necessary but I do feel safer with them.

 

 

That is all for now. Now As I do have the base concept it is much easier for me to continue with the  engine light box.

Thank You for your atention.

 

Edited November 15, 2021 by Konrad Popławski
fixing imag quality

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Happy to see you found something that suits your needs. Looking forward to seeing this one progress. 

Edited November 14, 2021 by Corsairfoxfouruncle

[Anthony Kesterton]

I have just read through this entire thread - fantastic work, and so many great ideas.  I really like the way you have used "raw" PCB boards for this work too.

[Konrad Popławski]

Happy New Year fellow modelers !!!

 

I did some progress with engine light box, but today I would like to show something else - the engine grill. Here is a frame from star wars movie movie - my reference.

 

 

According to: https://www.shapeways.com/product/A3QAKA2SP/falcon-se-engine-coarse-grille-1-144?optionId=62270022&li=marketplace

 

There have been several different Falcon engine designs over the years. Your choices basically boil down to:

1) A blank white plastic wall. The OT models had simple white acrylic sheets over the back, producing a wall of light when lit. You never got to see the engine area powered off, so we have no idea what the engines were supposed to look like.
2) A finely-spaced backlit grid with no internal engine details. For the SE film, John Knoll and his team designed a finely spaced rectilinear grid for the back end. It featured a simple glow of light, going from red to blue to white as the ship took off. It was never shown powered off, so the internals are not known.
3) A finely spaced grid with internal eggcrate engine ports. When Japan's Fine Molds released a 1/72 Falcon kit in the mid 2000s, they supposedly asked ILM what the engines looked like when off. ILM's answer was to design a boxlike structure to sit behind the SE's narrow grid. This had a double row of rounded-rectangular holes, like an eggcrate, through which magic Falcon energy could shine.
4) A widely-spaced backlit grid with curved engine ports. The TFA Falcon introduced two new engine continuity problems. The CGI version of the ship has an engine grid - but with much wider spacing than the SE Falcon's! Behind this new grid was a complex curved box and rod structure, sort of like a blocky venturi nozzle for an imaginary energy jet system.
5) TFA curved engine ports; no grid. The physical TFA Falcon set (as seen on Greenham Common) appears to have the CGI model's internal engine structure but without the external grid, which makes no sense and is a strange continuity problem. The physical replica model on display at the Launch Bay exhibition looks like this as well.

 

As I said before I am not interested in making replica of specific version of millenium falcon. I just want to do something that is nice and interesting. I still believe that anything is better then plain blank strip therefore the a option 1) is out. I will stick with option 5) as it seems to be more or les similar to the one from the movie and what is more important it looks nice to me. In shapeways you can order many different engine grill versions to match with the desired version of the ship. I am sure that 3D printed parts will be unmatched in case of dimetions and placment accuracy.am sure that 3D printed parts will be unmathed in case of dmetion accuracy. However, there is a problem. Even these 3d printed parts needs further modifications to fit them in the Bandai structure, So basically there is a lot work to do despite spending a significant money - not good. Last but not least I am a bit worried about the smoothness of the pinted parts. This part seems to be very fragile and I am not sure if it would survive any additional sanding.

 

 

 

Here You can see how the original Bandai engine grill looks like:

 

 

To me it just looks plain and boring. What is more it’s so crude and thick that it blocks much of light. I decided to do my own version with Bandai parts basis but referring to shapeways guide pictures.

 

Extreme caution and sharp tools are much advised. Besides, You need to plan carefully your work. The whole proses will concentrate on heavy modifying parts:  F/10 and 2x F/14. First step was to drill holes for new slimmer vertical ribs. I need to do it at the begginning as the part seems to be at least a bit more solid and more willing to forgive any excess pressure. In addition I need to be very precise. Holes must be drilled at proper angle and distance from edge and between themselves. Any intolerance will result in visible error later. Next I narrowed a bit remaining ribs. I need something to hold my new grid. I decided to once again use hypodermic needles. I used various sizes:

·  0.9 for the rib joints

·  0.6 for main horizontal ribs

·  0.3 for horizontal joining ribs

·  0.45 for vertical ribs

 

 

 

Sorry for blured image - I did not checked my phone after taking this photos:

 

 

Later I removed ~60% of ribs to open engine chamber a bit more. Now the fun part - the rib joints. They need to be very short and ofcourse in the much similar size. But making them is a one problem second is attaching them to plastic. This time I used Locite super glue. To fully secure metal horizontal joints in their position I used thin styrene strips with a bit of spare plastic bits - again any mistakes in positioning those joins will result in visible errors in the end.  Last step was to bend vertical ribs and therefore glue a grid with metal ribs and epoxy glue - this really tightened the whole structure. As I try to do my best i wasn’t able to prevent errors and some of the plastic ribs broked. I was able to fix it with styrene bits and some plastic putty.

 

As You may see from below pictures i have glued in parts: F/1, 8, 9 and E1/10, 15.

Here You have the final result:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I do believe that with my own light box I will achieve even stronger light beam. On the picture below, the lamp is quite far from the model and its light is still a bit blocked by the interior parts.

 

 

Probably after priming the engine grill I will do some further corrections and sanding, but generally speaking I would call it done at the moment. I am happy that once again I have managed to sustain the original Bandai glue free mounting system and I can remove my engine grill any time.

That is all for now. Next I will concentrate on electric circuit and pcb boards. I need it to start some real light tests.

 

Edited January 8, 2022 by Konrad Popławski
some spelling

[Hunter Rose]

That looks superb! Nice seeing more work on this 

[Pete in Lincs]

Welcome back again, Konrad. Your work on this model is quite amazing in it's detail.

Your research is a great guide for anyone else building a Falcon.

[rockpopandchips]

Mad skills...!

[72nders]

Wow! Terrific work!