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E TYPE 1/8 Monogram


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33 minutes ago, Jo NZ said:

I fixed the overheating problem by using a footswitch to control the lathe - it helps considerably. I've still got the torque problem, although it has been improved by using polyurethane drive belts - the other advantage is that they don't overheat and break!

I knock out a set of head bearings every couple of years, mainly due to rounding off octagonal pieces of plate to use for Pocher brake drums etc., but these are easily available (the same size as skateboard bearings) and reasonably cheap.

I need a bigger lathe! I've been looking at the Emco Compact 8 - they come up for sale every now and again.

Here’s my cheapo-Chinese thing 

 

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even though they arrive ‘assembled’ just treat that as a convenient way to ship the parts you need to make one. Strip it right down and set up properly and it turns out they’re actually pretty good (for what we want them for anyway) although cheap, it’s all strong, heavy castings etc. I’ve got quick release tool post now, better chuck etc, it works for my limited abilities anyway. 
 

Nick

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Come back to the Jag...

 

Today, dash board.

As usual, not easy to shoot:

 

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The start with that, some improvements are needed...

 

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Switches, every time tedious!

 

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And on the middle:

 

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Dan.

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12 hours ago, Jo NZ said:

I need a bigger lathe! I've been looking at the Emco Compact 8 - they come up for sale every now and again.

You mean such as mine:

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That’s a mighty fine, well built, lathe. 
 

Sorry, Dan. I will stop hijacking your thread. Your build is much more interesting. Bring it on!

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Don't worry Poul!

I do love machines and machinist...

What a beauty and your workshop seems more clean than mine...

But, another "but", I don't agree with a milling machine with? into? a lathe.

The rule is for me one machine, one function.

May be because I'm a very lazy man!

 

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1 hour ago, PROPELLER said:

Don't worry Poul!

I do love machines and machinist...

What a beauty and your workshop seems more clean than mine...

But, another "but", I don't agree with a milling machine with? into? a lathe.

The rule is for me one machine, one function.

May be because I'm a very lazy man!

 

I’m with you... in principle. I do have a separate milling machine, but this one came with the lathe, so I mounted it, just in case I need to do some milling to a workpiece without moving it from the chuck. 
I have yet to have that happen, though.

 

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Ok, it looks clean here, but somehow, when I’m doing stuff, it tends to fill automatically and I honestly do not have anything to do with that 🥴

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Dan I'm waiting for you to get in,  fire up the engine and drive it away yourself. Stunning work Sir.

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This is a really interesting thread. The old Monogram E Type is actually quite an under detailed kit considering its size. Great fodder for adding extra detailing as being demonstrated in this thread. The lathe techniques shown will be most useful to many modellers. I have a Unimat 4 that was made in Taiwan. Actually not a bad little machine as it happens. I would imagine accessories for this machine would be compatible with the Austrian made Unimat 3. Plenty of spares available new and second hand too. Chronos in Dunstable is where I get spare drive belts from. The most useful thing I made for my machine was a 4 way tool post. Saves a lot of tool changing.

There is a Unimat 1 combination machine available on both the Hobbys and Hobbies websites that would offer a good entry into miniature machining. A bit limited to lighter materials but would be very useful to model car detailers.

 

An earlier posted referring to the GT40 referred to it as Detroit iron. Actually the GT40 was initially built by Ford Special Vehicles at Langley near Slough in the UK.

Edited by Noel Smith
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2 minutes ago, Noel Smith said:

This is a really interesting thread. The old Monogram E Type is actually quite an under detailed kit considering its size. Great fodder for adding extra detailing as being demonstrated in this thread. The lathe techniques shown will be most useful to many modellers. I have a Unimat 4 that was made in Taiwan. Actually not a bad little machine as it happens. I would imagine accessories for this machine would be compatible with the Austrian made Unimat 3. Plenty of spares available new and second hand too. Chronos in Dunstable is where I get spare drive belts from. The most useful thing I made for my machine was a 4 way tool post. Saves a lot of tool changing.

 

An earlier posted referring to the GT40 referred to it as Detroit iron. Actually the GT40 was initially built by Ford Special Vehicles at Langley near Slough in the UK.

Most accessories are compatible with the Unimat 3. I think it only differs where it comes to the milling attachment.

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Beautiful job!  I just bought a Monogram kit on ebay (around $200 here in the States).  I plan to build it as the 1966 mid-Series 1 that I owned in the early 70's.  So, in addition to the 19 items that you have inspired me to improve, I have to scratch build the different brake booster, reaction valve and master cylinder.  When you get time can you take some more photos of the under-bonnet ductwork that you fabricated?  Those are proving to be the most difficult images for me to find on the web.  How did you make the open louvers in the bonnet?

 

Ken

Edited by 1Coroner
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On 28/08/2020 at 21:00, Noel Smith said:

Chronos in Dunstable is where I get spare drive belts from.

 

Search evilbay for polyurethane drive belts. Mine have lasted 7 years so far.

 

(Although I do make a point of visiting Chronos when I'm in the UK - flying Emirates economy you got (still get?) a 30kg baggage allowance, so enough for parallels, 1-2-3 blocks etc...)

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3 hours ago, 1Coroner said:

When you get time can you take some more photos of the under-bonnet ductwork that you fabricated?  Those are proving to be the most difficult images for me to find on the web. 

Only two pics Ken, sorry...

 

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5 hours ago, 1Coroner said:

Beautiful job!  I just bought a Monogram kit on ebay (around $200 here in the States).  I plan to build it as the 1966 mid-Series 1 that I owned in the early 70's.  So, in addition to the 19 items that you have inspired me to improve, I have to scratch build the different brake booster, reaction valve and master cylinder.  When you get time can you take some more photos of the under-bonnet ductwork that you fabricated?  Those are proving to be the most difficult images for me to find on the web.  How did you make the open louvers in the bonnet?

 

Ken

I hope you are going to take us with you on this build journey😉

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I'm getting ready to start work on my E-type and plan to post frequent images.  What URL (image hosting site) do you guys  recommend using?

 

Ken

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Well, here we go.  My styrene sheet is on the way so it's time to start hacking into the bulkhead.  The arrows point to the molded wiper motor, heater flow valve, a cover panel and what is supposed to represent a bonnet latch that I'll remove.  I'll need to make a pocket for the wiper motor that I will build from scratch.  The solid lines show where the footwells need to be modified.  Will need to fabricate the rear engine stabilizer bracket as well.  Should keep me busy for a while!    Ken   I'll start a new thread ....

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