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1:48 Tamiya Spitfire Mk.Vb TROP


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Before attaching the wings you have to decide if you want to add the slipper tank, you’ll need to drill fixing holes if you want the tank attached.

Having seen matto21’s excellent finished version I will be adding the slipper tank as I think it adds a something a bit different.

I’m not convinced that these would have been fitted for operations in Malta, surly for the defence of Malta the aircraft wouldn’t have needed the extra fuel as they wouldn’t have been travelling long distances? anyhow as my aircraft won’t have correct ID or serial numbers and the camo’ scheme is also suspect?, I’m not going to be overly concerned with accuracy.

 

So, fixture holes drilled.

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The wing tops were then attached to the bottom, one at a time.

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as per the instructions the wing was fitted to the fuselage.

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The fit is exemplary the wing root has virtually no step, and certainly no gap whatsoever!

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Also the fit of the rear of the wing to the fuselage is also exceptional.

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I’ve built quite a few Eduard Spitfires, and really enjoyed them however, if you were to ask which I prefer I’d probably, at this point, opt for the Tamiya kit, it’s not as detailed as the Eduard version however I’ve been so impressed with the engineering/fit, so far I can’t praise it highly enough.

In the not too distant future I plan to build a Mk.I, I’m going to build Tamiya’s version rather than Eduard.

 

Back to the build, you get the option of ‘normal’ or ‘clipped’ wings, I’ve opted for the ‘iconic’ wing shape.

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Next I’ll be adding the Volkes filter and remaining bits and pieces before paint thinking about paint.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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3 hours ago, shortCummins said:

I’m not convinced that these would have been fitted for operations in Malta, surly for the defence of Malta the aircraft wouldn’t have needed the extra fuel as they wouldn’t have been travelling long distances?

You're probably right but I also agree that it makes it look pretty cool! 

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Firstly I added the oil cooler and radiator fairing.

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Tamiya give you a couple of choices for the ‘tropical’ air filters, Aboukir or Vokes, I prefer the Vokes as its far more ‘chin-like’ and very different to the non-tropical 'normal' Spitfire.

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There are a number of things that’ll need attaching however I’ll add them after paint as I know I’ll knock them off if I add them to soon.

 

‘Stuff’ that will be added later (this is an aid-memoir otherwise I will forget!)

Fuel filler cap

Exhaust manifold

Rear view mirror

Antenna mast

Pitot

Landing gear

 

I’ll be adding the slipper tank after I’ve weathered the underside and the propeller will probably be the very last thing to be added.

 

 

 

Next I’ll be masking the canopy ‘glass’ and Albert and checking the seams before paint.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Great going, I am yet to build an Eduard Spitfire , but have their Mk.IX to build so that will be remedied soon.   I have a couple more Tamiya Mk.Vs in the stash for MDC Seafire conversions.  Which I am also wanting to do this year.  

Look forward to seeing this progress

Chris

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20 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

Great going, I am yet to build an Eduard Spitfire , but have their Mk.IX to build so that will be remedied soon.   I have a couple more Tamiya Mk.Vs in the stash for MDC Seafire conversions.  Which I am also wanting to do this year.  

Look forward to seeing this progress

Chris

thanks Chris

 

the Eduard Spitfire is far more detailed than this, certainly in the cockpit but for this build I'm not overly fussed.

 

watch out for the exhaust and wheel well assemblies, not too difficult just overly complicated (in my view)

 

I'm sure you'll enjoy your build

best rgds

John(shortCummins)

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36 minutes ago, shortCummins said:

thanks Chris

 

the Eduard Spitfire is far more detailed than this, certainly in the cockpit but for this build I'm not overly fussed.

 

watch out for the exhaust and wheel well assemblies, not too difficult just overly complicated (in my view)

 

I'm sure you'll enjoy your build

best rgds

John(shortCummins)

Thanks John   it certainly looks nice on the box.  

Chris

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The cockpit ‘glass’ was masked with Montex vinyl.

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Albert was covered in tissue that was held in place by Mr.Masking Sol neo.

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Interior green/grey was applied before I sprayed the seems with UMP/Stynylrez black primer to test for fit which showed that there was a very small step that I used some sprue-goo to cover.

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A quick scrape with a knife and a brush with a sander…

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…and then resprayed with the primer

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I’ll need to do a little re-scribing and I can then complete the primer coat.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Once I’d sanded and resprayed primer over the seams it was obvious that they needed a bit more, so on with the sprue-goo again.

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I think the problem was that I put too much sprue-goo on the first time and I then was a little too enthusiastic scraping it off, live and learn?

 

It was also obvious that I’d need to replace some of the panel lines that I’d managed to destroy!

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So after I re-scribed the missing panel lines I gave everything a coat of my favourite UMP/Stynylrez black primer.

 

I let the paint cure overnight, as the primer is water based I don’t think its necessary to leave it so long, previously I’ve painted on it after only an hour so.

 

Anyhow, I broke-out “Rosie the Riveter” to add some extra detail to the wings and fuselage.

Once the riveting was complete I gave everything a light sanding.

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It’s a bit difficult to see the rivets on the primer, hopefully they’ll show better once paint and weathering have been applied.

 

Then some vallejo metal color 77.717 dull aluminium was added, I’ll be ‘chipping’ her so, hopefully, this will show through as part of the weathering.

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Next I’ll be starting on the painting proper, once I’ve finally decided on the scheme.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Well you made short work of those seams didn't you! We've all been a little excited with the knife at some point, you managed to make it look fantastic though.

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Looks good  so far, might have to try some sprue goo as never tried it before , I take it that you can mix it up and it will be alright in the bottle and won't go off quickly ?

Chris

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21 minutes ago, bigbadbadge said:

Looks good  so far, might have to try some sprue goo as never tried it before , I take it that you can mix it up and it will be alright in the bottle and won't go off quickly ?

Chris

I've had mine for 4 to 5 years, it started as a 3/4 used bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin with some chopped up sprue added. I wasn't sure how much sprue to glue was needed so I started off by adding a little sprue, waiting overnight and seeing how gloopy it was in the morning, after two or three days it was just about right.

 

Now, every time I get near the end of a bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin I add it to the sprue-goo mixture, if it gets a bit too thin then I just add some more sprue, leave it for a day or so and I'm back in business.

 

The seal on the bottle is good so it doesn't harden however it appears to get thicker the longer I leave it, but that could just be me thinking it was thinner last time I used it?

 

The best thing about sprue-goo is that it behaves exactly like the rest of the plastic in the kit, it's not harder, softer or more brittle than it's surroundings like other 'putties' or superglue, plus its basically free as its made from 'left overs'. 

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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25 minutes ago, shortCummins said:

I've had mine for 4 to 5 years, it started as a 3/4 used bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin with some chopped up sprue added. I wasn't sure how much sprue to glue was needed so I started off by adding a little sprue, waiting overnight and seeing how gloopy it was in the morning, after two or three days it was just about right.

 

Now, every time I get near the end of a bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin I add it to the sprue-goo mixture, if it gets a bit too thin then I just add some more sprue, leave it for a day or so and I'm back in business.

 

The seal on the bottle is good so it doesn't harden however it appears to get thicker the longer I leave it, but that could just be me thinking it was thinner last time I used it?

 

The best thing about sprue-goo is that it behaves exactly like the rest of the plastic in the kit, it's not harder, softer or more brittle than it's surroundings like other 'putties' or superglue, plus its basically free as its made from 'left overs'. 

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Hi  and thanks John. 

 

I don't have the Tamiya thin only extra ghin and a full bottle.  I wonder if it will be okay with the Humbrol liquid poly, might give that a try as got under half a bottle left which I have had for ages now.  

 

Chris

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I decided on the scheme, I’ve opted for this one.

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I’m going to have the underside azure blue, the top camo’ extra dark sea grey and ocean grey and a red spinner.

I’ve no idea if this is an actual scheme but I quite like the idea so that’s what I’ve decided to do.

 

Previously I’ve painted the roundels and codes after the camo’ however for my last completed build I followed Matt McDoogal’s technique and sprayed them first, I think this is the better way.

 

To start I sprayed a white base, Tamiya XF-2 (50%-50% Mr Levelling Thinner), for the fin-flash(s) and roundels.

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The fuselage roundels have an outer yellow roundel ring, I mixed Tamiya XF-3 yellow and a spot of Tamiya XF-7 red.

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I drew a light pencil line to indicate the outer edge for the yellow, I was hoping that the paint would cover it unfortunately it’s still quite noticeable, fingers crossed it’ll disappear when I paint the camo’.

 

The centre red (bulls eye) of the roundel was a mixture of Tamiya XF-7 red (75%) and XF-64 NATO brown (25%).

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Finally for the roundels were the blue rings, Tamiya XF-4 blue (95%) and XF-1 black (5%).

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Next will be the fuselage code letters.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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5 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

Nice paint work.   

Made a bottle of Sprue goo I have tried it out and will sand it later to see how it's gone.

 

Chris

I normally leave it overnight before sanding, depending on how much I've slathered on, obviously the thicker it is the longer to fully cure

 

once you get the hang of it it's good stuff

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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7 hours ago, shortCummins said:

I normally leave it overnight before sanding, depending on how much I've slathered on, obviously the thicker it is the longer to fully cure

 

once you get the hang of it it's good stuff

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Thanks John

Yes will do, I note it has thickened over the past couple of days as you said too. I dabbed some on the other night so hopefully will get tgat flattened later.

Chris

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Before I started on the code letters the roundels were then completely masked and, as a ‘belt-and-braces’ move, I used Mr Masking sol over the various circle masks.

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The underwing roundels cover various lumps and bumps so I’ll have to tale care when spraying the azure around these.

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I’ve also sprayed the roundel blue mixture around the outer rings, my theory is that if any paint is going to seep under the masks then this should act as a dam? we’ll see once the masks are removed.

 

The Montex mask set has the code letters WX, ZF, RF, D, H & T, I found this decal set that shows a number of aircraft with the letter T…

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…happily I have a T included in the mask set along with D & H so I’ve decided on the code letters T-D.

 

T-D was one of the Spitfire’s flown by Canadian Ace George ‘Screwball’ Beurling DSO, DFC, DFM & bar. Whilst stationed in Malta Beurling claimed over 27 kills, the highest total by an RAF pilot during the campaign.

 

The serials for this aircraft were BR173, unfortunately I don’t have this letters so I’ll either not add any, they could have been painted over?, or add different serial letters from the spares box.

 

Fuselage code letters sprayed with a base of Tamiya white and then Tamiya XF-80 royal light gray…

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…and then masked.

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Next will be starting the azure blue for the underside.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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For the underside azure blue I’m using AK RC291, I never used these paint before so it’ll be interesting to see how the perform.

 

I’m a big fan go black basing however as some of the ‘base’ has been paint aluminium a slightly different technique will be attempted.

Firstly I’ll create marble layers using different colours…

Tamiya XF-68, vallejo model air 71.306 sky blue, 71.113 IDF blue, 71.313 dark mediterranean blue.

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This looks awful doesn’t it however bare in mind that this mishmash of colours and splatters will be covered by the top coat and (hopefully) subtly alter the finished colour depending on what colour is the ‘base’.

 

As the marble coat was all acrylic colours I left it for an hour or so before applying the final colour.

To increase the colour variation I applied another ‘marble’ layer this time using AK RC291.

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The marble layer was then covered with highly thinned AK RC291, building the coats gradually.

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I'me very impressed with the AK paint, really good stuff.

 

 

Next the top camo.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Very nice work, keen to see this one finished as I read Malta Spitfire whilst on holiday there and one of these is on my list of spits to build, rather than collect !!

 

Keep up the good work

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The Tamiya version had the rudder with a middle stone, dark earth camo, however I’ve since found this…

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… so I plan to have one of the engine panels in the same scheme.

 

Before I could add any paint I masked the azure in areas that were likely to be ‘over-sprayed’.

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The first colour to be applied was vallejo 71.031 middle stone and then vallejo 71.323 dark earth.

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This is the first time I’ve used paints from this vallejo set, RAF colors tester scheme & M.T.O. 1940-1945, and I must say that I’m slightly disappointed, perhaps if I hadn’t just used the AK real colour it wouldn’t have been so?

However, you’ll see from the photos that some of the paint has lifted where the Tamiya ‘bendy’ tape was applied, I’ll wait until I completed the “main” camo’ before attempting to fix this.

 

 

I’ll leave it overnight before masking and then I’ll proceed with the rest of the camo.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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One thing I’ve found about using Vallejo is to let it set for a minimum of 24hrs before masking. When masking, detack the beejaysus out of the tape and when removing it, go slowly and pull away at an angle. For me at least, I have removed no or very little paint and if paint did lift, it was less than when I masked Tamiya paint

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This is coming on well,  the marbling effect is very subtle too and looks good.  I like the scheme you have chosen makes for an unusual looking machine which is very appealing. 

Looking forward to seeing the results. 

Great job 

Chris 

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Just joining this one now, great progress and I love the scheme you’ve chosen.

 

I have built both a Tamiya and Eduard Spitfire and prefer the Tamiya as well; the Eduard, while beautifully detailed is a bit too over engineered for its own good - I found the undercarriage and wheel wells to be real buzz-kills in particular.

 

Vallejo paints are fussy, but when you get them right they are a joy.  The paint to thinner mix is critical, as is choice of thinner.  I use either Vallejo Thinner or, believe it or not, Windex; both with equal success.  Spray a very light coat first, let that go dry and then build up with more light coats, making sure that each is dry - never let it pool or apply too thick.  I rarely have issues with it lifting under masking, and routinely mask with blutack within minutes of application and with tape easily within an hour.  The only occasions I’ve had significant lifting have been due to contamination on the plastic - I alway wipe the model down with Windex prior to painting now.

 

Hope that helps vis a vis Vallejo paints..  

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17 hours ago, fubar57 said:

One thing I’ve found about using Vallejo is to let it set for a minimum of 24hrs before masking. When masking, detack the beejaysus out of the tape and when removing it, go slowly and pull away at an angle. For me at least, I have removed no or very little paint and if paint did lift, it was less than when I masked Tamiya paint

thanks for the tip on using vallejo, the Tamiya bendy tape I used was detacked however I did burnish it down quite hard trying to get tightish bends, in retrospect I should have used a paper mask.

 

11 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

This is coming on well,  the marbling effect is very subtle too and looks good.  I like the scheme you have chosen makes for an unusual looking machine which is very appealing. 

Looking forward to seeing the results. 

Great job 

Chris 

thanks Chris, I do like 'different' schemes, my version will be my 'best-guess', more of a 'could of' rather than accurate representation.

 

11 hours ago, mark.au said:

Just joining this one now, great progress and I love the scheme you’ve chosen.

 

I have built both a Tamiya and Eduard Spitfire and prefer the Tamiya as well; the Eduard, while beautifully detailed is a bit too over engineered for its own good - I found the undercarriage and wheel wells to be real buzz-kills in particular.

 

Vallejo paints are fussy, but when you get them right they are a joy.  The paint to thinner mix is critical, as is choice of thinner.  I use either Vallejo Thinner or, believe it or not, Windex; both with equal success.  Spray a very light coat first, let that go dry and then build up with more light coats, making sure that each is dry - never let it pool or apply too thick.  I rarely have issues with it lifting under masking, and routinely mask with blutack within minutes of application and with tape easily within an hour.  The only occasions I’ve had significant lifting have been due to contamination on the plastic - I alway wipe the model down with Windex prior to painting now.

 

Hope that helps vis a vis Vallejo paints..  

thanks Mark, I agree about the Eduard undercarriage, having said that their Spitfire cockpits are far better detailed, as I wanted to use a pilot, Eduard kits don't have pilots!, the interior detail won't be seen. Also Eduard don't do a Vokes filter.

 

thanks for the tips on the paint.

I didn't thin the paint, it was used straight from the bottle so that could be the issue. The masking was nearly two hours after application, I thought it would have been enough time for it to fully cure. Interestingly the paint lifted was sprayed over vallejo acrylic metal color so no contamination issues?

As to thinning, Windex isn't readily available in my park of the UK, I do have some UMP thinner, I'll have to experiment as see what works.

 

thanks for the comments chaps

 

much appreciated 

John(shortCummins)

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Such a good choice in scheme, I really like how you're going about painting the engine panel as well. This is going to look awesome.

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