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Guy

HMS Prince of Wales Tamiya 1/350

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Hello,

 

New day and a new challenge. Just having finished a Sea Vixen after a series of aircraft I thought I had better dust off a Tamiya HMS Price of Wales that I have had gathering dust and start with a new challenge. I haven't done a plastic ship for many many years so time to make a change. Previous ship building was a wooden HM Brig Supply by Jotika.

50175582698_45b9a14d92_c.jpg

 

However over to heavy metal and my first conundrum is do I do this as per the kit, or do I add in photo etch. I have used some on the aircraft and that is fiddly enough but this seems to be an order of magnitude up from that. Any suggestions over what to use without driving myself to distraction and never finishing ?

50176435542_c2267ae331_c.jpg

 

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I'm not a ship builder but enjoy watching ship builds & having seen great builds done at either end of the etch spectrum, I'd go with what you feel comfortable with, It seems that for rails, ladders doors etc, it works well but maybe for someofthe smaller more intricte things, #d printed bits sre taking over from etch or stay with the kits plastic. There is no best way other than what works best for you.

Steve.

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The more that I look, I would tend to agree with you. Lacking rails and decent ladders would just end up being more irritating then the 'fun' of applying them.

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First job to get rid of the very visible seam lines and get the hull cleaned up, washed and ready for it's primer.

50176540487_a1d24b343f_c.jpg

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Not impressed with the moulding here yet, seam lines everywhere, filling to do around the struts and the gap around the prop shaft where the bearing would be.

 

Shafts will be replaced with some brass rod I have.

 

50175883878_b357f3002d_c.jpg

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Hey Guy, I echo New Zealand Steve, do what you feel comfortable in doing. If you want to expand your skills, by the looks of the Sea Vixen, are quite formidable, than try some minor things first. But what ever you decide remember this is your build, enjoy and have fun. I look forward to following your progress.

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Ha, that ship has sailed already .. all in or nothing, so some Eduard photo etch is on the way and a wooden deck. Have to improve my skills and experience so there is only one way to do that!

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Ah, In for a penny in for a pound. You can add the Mk1 Royal Navy upgrade sets if you want to 'improve' your skills!

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12 hours ago, Guy said:

Previous ship building was a wooden HM Brig Supply by Jotika.

I meant to say in my post last night (my time) that the Brig is a very sweet build, with skills like that I'm sure you're up to any challenge this one may bring or that you want to confront. ;) :D

Steve.

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8 hours ago, stevehnz said:

I'm sure you're up to any challenge

Up to the challenge without a doubt! One issue I have now that I didn't have when I did the rigging for the Brig was that my eyes are not what they were when I did that, I could tie the rigging without needing assistance. Now that is quite a different matter ... I need to get to the optician to get a better pair of glasses for fine close work.

50179532237_462412a22d_w.jpg

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12 hours ago, Jerry L said:

You can add the Mk1 Royal Navy upgrade sets if you want to 'improve' your skills!

I wasn't aware of their stuff, but now I have looked .. err ... next model I think .. pretty impressive!

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As others have said, it's your model and you must choose how to finish it such that you are happy.  But I think you have made the right decision with the Eduard PE.  Aircraft can be built out of the box but PE really lifts ship models to a higher level.

 

Like you, I've not come across Mk 1 Design previously having focussed mainly on WEM. NorthStar and Atlantic Models products (of which I have nothing but praise - they are all excellent).  From what I can see, Mk 1 looks good as well but some of their descriptions are interesting - I'm not sure they've performed especially well in their translations!  So for example, I looked at their 1/350 RN gangways set because I will have a need in the not too distant future for a gangway (technically a "brow" in RN speak) for an alongside setting (a cat class frigate alongside for Navy Days).  But from what I can tell, their "gangways" are actually accommodation ladders, but no information whatsoever as to what era or what classes of ship they are designed for and different ships have different freeboards and hence different lengths of ladder, notwithstanding the fact that the designs were improved over the years.

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11 hours ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

Before replacing the shafts, if it's for roundness carry on, but if for the brass look then be aware that these were painted anti-fouling red.

 

How concerned are you with the camouflage scheme?

Purely roundness, will most certainly be painted over.

 

Camouflage wise, I am keen on her March 41 scheme - business like and no messing around.

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Nice choice. I started KGV straight after finishing this one. Plastic makes a change from wood. I love doing wood kits but plastic and PE is just as challenging. Great start.

 

Chris

 

oJlM40ul.jpg
QoOxB64l.jpg

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6 hours ago, Guy said:

Purely roundness, will most certainly be painted over.

 

Camouflage wise, I am keen on her March 41 scheme - business like and no messing around.

 

So Home Fleet Grey / Admiralty Pattern 507A and March 41 would be a month before her decks were darkened.  :)

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56 minutes ago, magpie1832 said:

Nice choice. I started KGV straight after finishing this one

That is a striking model, what is she ?

 

33 minutes ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

 

So Home Fleet Grey / Admiralty Pattern 507A and March 41 would be a month before her decks were darkened.  :)

Well thankyou! You have saved me some work :D

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A bit of progress for the day, seam removed, new shafts, gaps filled and a coat of primer applied.

50180912616_b6c6f37754_c.jpg

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Glad to see that the 507A isn't looking as dark as it did when I first opened the pot of paint.

 

50184275913_3f09474cb5_c.jpg

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Lifecolor's is based on a chip which is darker than reality, but just don't go too heavy and you can lean on the lighter plastic background to hopefully lighten the result to reality. All of Lifecolor's RN paints are based on out-dated chips now.

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1 hour ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

Lifecolor's is based on a chip which is darker than reality, but just don't go too heavy and you can lean on the lighter plastic background to hopefully lighten the result to reality. All of Lifecolor's RN paints are based on out-dated chips now.

Advice greatly appreciated! Always something new to learn.

I went a certain shop to order some paint but sadly they seem to be off for August :( This is my learning one and made do with what I had on the shelf, the next .. well ....

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15 minutes ago, Guy said:

Advice greatly appreciated! Always something new to learn.

I went a certain shop to order some paint but sadly they seem to be off for August :( This is my learning one and made do with what I had on the shelf, the next .. well ....

It's not a million miles away, and certainly closer than their 507B "Medium Grey" which you could use if you ever build HMS Duke of York instead, or perhaps HMS Ark Royal in her two-tone appearance.

 

The appearance you've achieved there passes The Laugh Test(TM) so you're all good :)

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First coat of the bottom colour on. There is an awful lot of spraying to do to cover that, is there a technical term for the discomfort of holding an airbrush for too long ? I can think of a couple but definitely not safe for polite company!

 

50188822806_8a88ff3e09_c.jpg

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