henryjames Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 Ok so after finishing the enormous 1/8 Jaguar e-type, I’m on to my next big(ish) model the Gt40 that’s just been re-released by magnifier (who!?) it appears to be juts a re-boxed trumpeter model, and it can currently be had for around £90 which seems pretty good value to me. Does anyone have any great build logs I can follow? Also if anyone is interested, one of the very original prototype cars (1 of 5) is up for auction currently - https://coolmaterial.com/rides/original-ford-gt40-prototype/. Rather nice in the white with a deep deep blue interior. Sadly I don’t have an airbrush so it’s good ol rattle can and brush for me, for anyone out there that has painted this one before what colours do I need? (planing on doing it as per kit in black with silver stripes, so guessing a Gloss Black, and apparently a very deep blue semi Gloss for interior chassis? A red for the hook things at the front, then I guess an aluminium, chrome and what appears to be a gold on the engine? I normally use Tamiya spray, but maybe as it’s basic black gloss I could consider a regular car spray rattle can? Any thoughts hugely welcome oh lastly if anyone has any killer 1/8 models I should look at do let me know, I can’t find any, they seem to be crazy rare.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 33 minutes ago, henryjames said: Does anyone have any great build logs I can follow? Also if anyone is interested, one of the very original prototype cars (1 of 5) is up for auction currently - https://coolmaterial.com/rides/original-ford-gt40-prototype/. Rather nice in the white with a deep deep blue interior. Although 1/24th scale, here is an excellent build of the very car in the finishes you prefer. Andy is a master with rattle cans and many tips are included here. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235076248-fujimi-ford-gt40-mkii/ Be advised that this 1/12 kit has many compromises to overcome if you want accuracy. At the very least, it must be lowered. Then no roll bar installed for the '66 LeMans winner. Since I own the 1:1 engine used here, detailing was very easy but needed. There are many changes needed in the cockpit. Reference is your friend, especially photos taken in '66. Here is my version, as though it were my personal vintage track rat: 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coors54 Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Hi @henryjames, I have just bought the same kit and have had some discussions in an old thread - I too have been looking for some good build threads from the original release to get some ideas on improvements, I just wish @Codger had done a WIP on his gorgeous track rat. Here are a couple I've found - https://www.f1m.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=14074&hilit=gt40+ka+models&start=60 This one is a 1/24 but is insanely detailed - https://www.f1m.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=23309&hilit=GT40 This one's fun - https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiwlKmV3-_qAhWWQxUIHdqfDyEQFjAXegQICBAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pistonheads.com%2Fgassing%2Ftopic.asp%3Fh%3D0%26f%3D%26t%3D1800234&usg=AOvVaw1E-vXQb-Qw2s70QLMjpeTO And this is very nice - http://www.essmc.org.au/harry_edmond_ford_gt40.html I don't think I'll be starting mine anytime soon as I have 2 Porsches to finish and a BMW Batmobile to start so maybe a better WIP will be available then - maybe yours? 😇 Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 2 hours ago, Coors54 said: Hi @henryjames, I have just bought the same kit and have had some discussions in an old thread - I too have been looking for some good build threads from the original release to get some ideas on improvements, I just wish @Codger had done a WIP on his gorgeous track rat. You're very kind Dave but here's why no web WIP; It was being published in Model Cars Magazine. If you can find an old issue there's a ten-page article I wrote including building the glass case for it. Hard to believe that was 10 years ago! Here's the first page of the build story: 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coors54 Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Codger said: It was being published in Model Cars Magazine. If you can find an old issue there's a ten-page article I wrote including building the glass case for it. Hard to believe that was 10 years ago! Now that's something I'll have to search for! Thanks @Codger (or should we call you Charlie now? The secrets out!) I love a good magazine article. Dave UPDATE: The magazine website shows that they have backorder copies 🥳 but only to the US 😡, Edited July 28, 2020 by Coors54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 5 minutes ago, Coors54 said: Thanks @Codger (or should we call you Charlie now? The secrets out!) I love a good magazine article. Dave CODGER is both my name AND description... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coors54 Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 1 minute ago, Codger said: CODGER is both my name AND description... Duly noted…. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henryjames Posted July 28, 2020 Author Share Posted July 28, 2020 Superb, thanks guys. just gathering supplies, I see there’s a GA metal accessory kit, but not sure I can bring myself to drop £200 odd on this... on paint, any thoughts on colours I need? I’m thinking Tamiya TS 14 black and TS 89 Pearl blue for the interior? for engine block colours and others, any thoughts on what I need? I’ve been brush painting engines with the Revel enamels, I have steel, aluminium and silver, am I missing a gold, copper or brass? also any other extra ‘things’ I should consider getting (got microset and sol already). lastly and a bit off topic, what glue have you all been using, I like using CA but the hazing it causes is a nightmare, I have Tamiya Extra thin but to be honest I get a little frustrated at its slow grip time and it also doesn’t appear to be very strong (also I’ve found it doesn’t work over painted surfaces...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 On 26/07/2020 at 21:28, Codger said: Andy is a master with rattle cans and many tips are included here I think you'll find Andy painted that with an airbrush, using Tamiya base coat and 2K clear. He has done some beautiful earlier builds with rattle cans though... And he's a really helpful bloke and will no doubt tell you his secrets! Only helpful (?) hints I have about using rattle cans is to warm the can well in hot water (not too hot that you can't put your fingers in it) and then shake it to death. Although I like Tamiya for primer I use Hycote or Halfords car sprays for final coats - solid colours of these don't usually need clear coasting and they polish out well using micromesh for wet sanding and then compounds. I like to keep the small nozzles off tamiya cans to use on the car spray cans as I find it gives me a bit more control over the paint flow. Obviously if you go the Tamiya route that bit's already sorted... Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 7 minutes ago, keefr22 said: I think you'll find Andy painted that with an airbrush, using Tamiya base coat and 2K clear. He has done some beautiful earlier builds with rattle cans though... I mis-spoke and stand corrected. This is what I meant. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coors54 Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 (edited) The KA kit gets mixed reviews, so much so I wouldn't consider it personally. Icon Automotive tyres are supposed to be superb but are Goodyears and my car was fitted with Firestones in 66. Renaissance do a resin spare wheel (missing from the kit) so that's a must and Indycals do very good decal sets. Not had problems with Tamiya thin and if the grip time is too short for you I'm surprised. For most sticking I use Tamiya medium, details in plastic the thin and etch etc is superglue thin and thick depending on circumstance, I don't tend to get fogging on parts with superglue, are you using an accelerator? As with all hobbies you build up an armoury of different adhesives, paints and tools and use what's most appropriate. Of course what works for me may not work for you. Get a WIP thread going and we'll all chip in I'm sure. Dave PS just re read your post, Tamiya thin is a plastic solvent, it melts and welds the plastic, paint acts as a barrier to that so must be cleaned off to allow the welding to take place. Treat it like a contact glue and it won't work, maybe that's your problem? Edited July 28, 2020 by Coors54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jo NZ Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Icon tyres are great, the N0.2 car only ran Firestones until it rained - then changed to Goodyear. Dont't bother with the front spare - unless you cut it to about 1/3 of it's width, it won't fit.... The kit decals are missing the McLaren badges on the side windows, the NZ and fern on the offside front wing, and the stripes to go over the spoiler. I built the No.1 car, and used BestBalsaKits decals, but these too omit the striping over the spoiler. I will try and get my pictures to reappear on my thread.... They're back! see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 I always use real car rattle-cans. I have for years. Take care, several light coats over a finely sanded primer and then a final 'flood' coat. Ok, not a GT40, but it gives the idea of gloss black... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Another vote for Halfords paints here. My first model on here (and first attempt at spray painting) was using their Ford Signal Black with Revell clear over the top and then an attack of micromesh, and even for a cack-handed beginner like myself it still gave decent results. Looking at what you're done so far, I think you should get better than this: (apologies if this is seen as a bit of a conceit putting one of my builds in your thread, just trying to show what a beginner can achieve with Halfords - happy to remove if is a distraction from what you want). 23 hours ago, keefr22 said: Only helpful (?) hints I have about using rattle cans is to warm the can well in hot water (not too hot that you can't put your fingers in it) and then shake it to death. Although I like Tamiya for primer I use Hycote or Halfords car sprays for final coats - solid colours of these don't usually need clear coasting and they polish out well using micromesh for wet sanding and then compounds. I like to keep the small nozzles off tamiya cans to use on the car spray cans as I find it gives me a bit more control over the paint flow. Obviously if you go the Tamiya route that bit's already sorted... Keith Thanks, it's little tips like this which are so simple but which I would never have thought of, which make the site so useful. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel Smith Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Been using Halfords acrylic primers for years and they seem to work well with numerous manufacturers top coats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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