Restoring an old 1/72 Airfix Wellington

[Alpha Juliet]

This is fascinating - I can feel a 3D printer coming on (but don't tell the wife!)

[Brigbeale]

It’s been a few days as I’ve only had a short time each day to do anything to this kit.

I designed and 3D printed a simple replacement cockpit with bulkhead. The seat is a co-pilot/flight engineer one from a CMK Lancaster cockpit set. It’s not 100% correct but it’s better than the original offering although I will add the armoured headrest to it. I also left the instrument panel as it was when I got the kit. Don’t think pink instrument panels will catch on😂

The front turret - I designed and printed a gun mount (very roughly based on photos) and used a piece of 2mm rod drilled to accept the replacement guns(2 cut down pins which looks a lot better than the original “Lego” versions. I should have painted the guns before I closed the turret up but with a bit of luck, I can get it open again with Tamiya Extra thin. I’ve also noticed it looks too short in the fuselage. Maybe a spacer underneath will sort it.

The rear turret - It’s on its 5th or 6th incarnation as I tweak it. I’ve changed from Shapr3D to Onshape. It’s not as user friendly from the off but I’m slowly getting used to it and it allows for more rounded circles. Hopefully the incarnation printing as I write this will look better.
I filled the side windows and a couple of sink marks (following a suggestion on my Liberator RFI) using Revell filler, sanded them back and described the raised lines. The nose also had a window and geodetic frame put in and also a small window put in the other side. 

 

Edited August 6, 2020 by Brigbeale

[Eric Mc]

At this rate, there won't be much of the original left.

[Brigbeale]

18 hours ago, Eric Mc said:

At this rate, there won't be much of the original left.

 

I am trying to keep as much as possible. The rear turret was missing. The cockpit was basically a flat piece of plastic with two representations of seats. The instrument panel is original. Propellers, one rear wing, both ailerons and tail wheel were all missing. The side gunner windows are original but blended in. Above wing windows are being added to convert the model to represent the Brooklands R-Robert Wellington.
 

As an update though, I hit a bit of a milestone as in the fuselage is glued together although it still put up a fight to line up the two halves despite the tabS fitted. The rear turret turned out ok - not perfect but it should look better with painted framework. I had to use superglue (with the usual clouding😡) to fix the clear part as clear glue wouldn’t hold for some reason. Hopefully it’ll cover with paint. Also managed to get the front turret apart and paint the inside and seal it back up again.

Edited August 7, 2020 by Brigbeale

[Eric Mc]

You will need different engines for the Brooklands Wellington. The Brooklands example was Pegasus powered and features those "covers" in front of the cylinders that were dispensed with on later, Hercules powered versions  - so they visually look different.

 

 

[Brigbeale]

An update.

The fuselage has its initial filling and sanding done.

The main wings were fitted one at a time with the help of a couple of Royal Mail issue rubber bands. They appear to have gone back on with the correct dihedral.

I read Eric MC’s post about the engines. I discovered that if I scale up the printed engines, I could make a passable cover, given the original mouldings.The simulated engines don’t show that much so will be fine as they are. As said earlier, this is my representation of the Brooklands Wellington so may have the odd quirk here and there.

I managed to separate the original propeller hubs from the engines as they had been glued solid. They were cleaned up and I drilled a 2mm hole up the middle to take a replacement ‘shaft’. The hubs were also drilled to accept new propellers which I designed using a spare prop assembly I had in my spares box as a guide. They may not be 100% the correct shape but they’re better than nothing and I’ll be happy with them. I also intend to add the cone to the front of the hub as well.

I found the engine nacelles problem in lining up was due to the top halves being on the wrong sides. A bit of filling and sanding should sort them.

The main gear wheels were redesigned and 3D printed . I did try the originals but they sat at an angle in the struts, lack any detail and are too thin.

 

 

 

Edited August 11, 2020 by Brigbeale

[Marklo]

Lovely work. I see you’re using an FDM type printer, what model is it? You seem to be getting quite a fine finish, without what I term the usual corduroy finish that FDM can produce.

Edited August 11, 2020 by Marklo

[Brigbeale]

Creality Ender 3. I use a 0.2mm nozzle with a 0.08mm or 0.12mm layer height
I lucked out on that as well.

i purchased it off EBay from a seller in Scotland. All went well with he sale and it arrived a few days later, but I did notice it came from a shipping company near London. 
After about 3 months the extruder drive gear stripped and, although I simply moved it up to use a new section, I complained to the seller.

He/she chose not to respond. I purchased an updated gear from eBay and fitted it.

Two weeks later, the actual extruder arm itself cracked and stopped the printer working altogether.

i contacted the seller again complaining the extruder arm had broken (being plastic) but again got no response. All I wanted was a replacement extruder.
I contacted eBay, but they said it was beyond their time limit, but PayPal had a 180 day resolution program.

So I contacted PayPal who listened to my grievance and said they would contact the seller and demand a response.
He/she had 10 days to respond. They again chose not to.

Paypal found in my favour and refunded the money paid for it in full.

I asked what should I do with the printer and PayPal told me I could do whatever I like with it as it is now considered mine as well.

So I replaced the plastic extruder with an aluminium one and its worked fine ever since😊

 

Edited August 11, 2020 by Brigbeale

[AntoineG]

Hi,

 

Just found your thread. It is fascinating. I like the idea of 'resurecting' old kits.

The results you obtain with your printer are awesome. Same with the original parts.

 

Will follow from now on!

 

Cheers,

 

Antoine

 

[Brigbeale]

Another update on this restoration.

After gluing the top engine nacelles in position and allowing them to set, I proceeded with filling the gaps. Where the top and bottom nacelles meet in front of the wings, they were slightly different widths so I had to blend them with filler. A bit of finer sanding should make them more acceptable.

I also designed a replacement tail wheel on onshape using photos and an image of a resin aftermarket one. I’m happy with the result.

I then set about designing a replacement tail wing and both ailerons. The tail wing turned out a near exact match for the original. The designing of the ailerons took a little thinking and two attempts to get right. When printed they lined up almost perfectly 

I then scored the geodetic framing pattern on them to match the original - not perfect but near enough. Also scored the ailerons framing as well to add some detail.

The tail wings were then glued into position using Revell paint pots to line them up horizontally while the glue sets overnight.

Once they’re set, I’ll glue the ailerons in position using the same method to align them.

Then it’s the tail fin and rudder to be attached and some final sanding and then it’s almost time for masking ready for paint.

I think on this one, I’ll use some primer first to see what’s what and where more attention is required.

Edited August 16, 2020 by Brigbeale

[stevehnz]

This is looking really impressive both your remedial work & 3d printed bits, the way to the future & the way to the past in several easy lessons. I can see I'm going to have to check out this 3d malarkey before long.

Steve.

[Brigbeale]

A small amount done tonight but a significant step forward.

I fitted the cockpit canopy after cleaning it of old paint and then dipping it in Humbrol Gloss Cote which improved the clarity of it. The same with the bomb aimer’s window. 
I’ve just found out I’ve been naming the ailerons incorrectly. They should be called elevators. That must be today’s lesson😋.

Anyway both ailerons and elevators were fitted along with the tail fin and rudder assembly.

I wasn’t happy with the fuselage between the starboard wing and the fuselage window. It wasn’t straight after the wing was refitted. A piece of plastic was shaved down at one end it made the world of difference.

I also cleaned up the tail wheel as the photo made it look rough - I should wear my glasses when doing small stuff like that.🤓

I’ll let the TET set up overnight and start prepping for masking prior to paint.

I’ve also come to the decision the pins which I used for the guns look cr*p so I ordered a set of Quickboost replacements. Odd thing was if I bought 1/72 Wellington gun barrels, I would get 4 and they’d be about £5 + postage. So I ordered a set of 1/72 Lancaster gun barrels (which have the same ovals) and I get 12 for £2 + £2.50 postage. At least this means I’ll have 8 spares for my Stirling when I get round to it.

I’m glad it looks like a Wellington again😊😊

 

Edited August 18, 2020 by Brigbeale

[Brigbeale]

I decided to give the Wellington a coat of primer, but I wasn’t sure on

1)Just give it a coat of grey Tamiya Acrylic as a primer.

2)Get my son to get a tin of Halfords primer (he works there and gets discount).

3)Try (for the first time for me) Mr Surfacer.

I went to a local railway shop who also has some models for sale to see what they had. They don’t sell Tamiya paints, only Humbrol and Mr Hobby. 
I looked at the Mr Hobby range of colours and then the Mr Surfacers.

I - being tight - thought ‘six quid for a pot that size!’ 😳. Plus my airbrush may not be compatible with the chemical make up of the product. I must upgrade it at some point.

At the bottom of the rack was a 100ml spray tin of Mr Surfacer 1000. Price tag £2. I’ll give that a go!
Knowing it stinks a bit, I went to my shed and sprayed the model there.

Once it had dried the flaws in the filling were highlighted so I remedied them by filling them and sanding them smooth.

I then recoated the affected areas and allowed it to dry.

I like this stuff. It gives a nice smooth finish.

While waiting for it to dry, I painted the wheels and 3D printed a replacement exhaust as one was missing when I got the model. I got carried away with removing the supports and broke off a couple of flared parts of the exhaust. I’ll just print another when I’m ready for it. 
Tonight, I gave the undersides, fuselage and tail fin/rudder with Tamiya NATO Black. I used it on my Halifax. It looked off to me but once I painted the camouflage on top, it blended in nicely.

Plan for tomorrow is to mask the fuselage and engines and give it a coat of Dark Earth and Dark Green camouflage.

Edited August 21, 2020 by Brigbeale

[Ruskin Air Services]

Recently built for the kit I built as a kid GB, hope it gets the creative juices flowing! 

 

[Brigbeale]

Another well turned out Wellington.😍😍

Well done.

[rob85]

This is some very cunning work, it’s really taking shape, a true Phoenix from the ashes.

 

Rob

[Brigbeale]

Tonight I masked the Wellington and painted the camouflage.

The paint was Revell Aqua Colour Dark Earth and Dark Green.

Once masked, the dark earth was airbrushed on first and once that was dry, I further masked the camouflage using an image of Wellington Mk1A mask. I scaled the image using an app called Print To Size, then applied masking tape to my cutting mat and laid the printed image on top and cut through both with a craft knife. Using an image of the placement guide, I detacked the tape by sticking to the back of my hand and placing them on the model. The only problem area was the port engine where the masks didn’t line up, so I trimmed them to shape.

Once that little lot was on, I airbrushed the Dark Green and gave it about 20 minutes to dry off - the paint dried quickly - and then removed the masks to stop the tape adhering too much and risk removing the dark earth paint.

The tape came off almost perfectly, just one very tiny dot under the wing and a small line on the centre seam just in front of the tail fin. I touched it in with a brush.
It’s currently sat in the display cabinet to dry completely before I spray it with my usual varnish prior to decalling.

Edited August 22, 2020 by Brigbeale

[Brigbeale]

Another update after last night’s shenanigans.

The Wellington was given a coat of my usual floor polish which gives a good satin finish.

This was allowed to dry to allow for decalling before smaller pieces were added and then knocked off again.

The small radome was another missing part and there was nothing like it in my spares box.

While searching for a suitable replacement, I came across a clear drawing pin which had a round bottom with a short shaft on top. The top was cut off and the round part sanded until it was smooth. Clear glue was used to attach it to the opening in the top of the fuselage.

Decalling started with the wing roundels and then onto the fuselage roundels.

Then a mini disaster struck. I use Micro Set and Micro Sol which I have in a 3D printed stand. My brush for the Set has a lip where the ferrule joins the handle and this picked up the bottle. It dropped off and landed at an angle on the stand. In my attempt to catch the bottle to stop it falling over completely (as it had done in the past - hence the stand), I caught the rudder assembly and knocked it sideways breaking the adhesion. No big problem - I’ll glue it back after decalling.

Then I noticed the damage. In knocking the rudder, it acted as a lever and prised the top of the fuselage apart. I don’t know how it separated as there was plenty of Tamiya Extra Thin on it. Maybe the age of the plastic🤷🏻‍♂️. I re-glued it and held it with a peg for about 15 minutes which seemed to allow enough time to hold together. The rudder was re-attached afterwards and the peg left on overnight. The paint was touched up this morning but a the split can still be seen. Maybe another touch up or two will cover it.
Decalling was finished - there was 12 in total including the red dots for the centres of the fuselage roundels - which seemed very lacking compared to the Phantom which had over 260! Another small irritating point was the aircraft serial number decals which were slightly out of register. The grey print is slightly off on the white background on each letter/number. After the fuselage splitting, this was a minor point so I let it be. Though I will contact the ebay seller to see what he says.

The masking for the clear parts was removed and I’m happy with the results although some primer overspray managed to find its way on the inside of the added fuselage window on the starboard side. I might be able to get the window out and clean it off or just replace it - we will see.

Over all though, it’s shaping up nicely. 
I noticed the exhausts are wrong for the 1A. Oddly I have one correct original and one wrong one🤷🏻‍♂️. It’s badly moulded so I’ll see about making replacements as well as the fuel jettison pipes which broke when I removed them.

Also one pair of wheel bay doors are/is missing, so I’ll copy them as well.  
I also have a question about the engine cowling fronts. What colour should they be. I remember my matchbox one saying they should be copper in colour. The latest Airfix one says gun metal. ???

Edited August 24, 2020 by Brigbeale

[Heather Kay]

13 minutes ago, Brigbeale said:

The small radome was another missing part and there was nothing like it in my spares box.

It’s an astrodome. Navigation was often done by stars, using a sextant, until the later radar allowed for something more reliable.

 

Despite the hiccups along the way, this is turning out really nicely. Very impressed. 
 

Just reread you post, and spotted the question about the cowling rings. These are actually collectors for the exhaust. They were made of unpainted steel, and were affected by the hot exhaust gases, giving rise to a variable copper colour over time. Traditionally, instructions said paint them copper, but more recently gunmetal has been recommended. I tend to mix a bit of copper and black to give a varied colour over the rings, and exhausts.

[Brigbeale]

Thanks for the pointer on the astrodome. My coffee hadn’t kicked in and the word wouldn’t come to me. Somehow radome did but I had a feeling it wasn’t right and I thought I’d edit it later when it came to me.

[qn30jEkPz7]

Nice work on both the model and getting your printer running and dialled in. I eventually wore the plastic extruder out but the metal one has been bombproof since. You’ve had more luck than me with the 0.2mm nozzle, I can’t get them to run reliably at all

[ckw]

26 minutes ago, Brigbeale said:

Maybe another touch up or two will cover it.

The number of times I've thought that! No it won't - in fact the more likely outcome is to create a buildup of paint around the crack drawing attention to the flawed area. I think for this case I would fill the superglue, which will of course need to be sanded impacting a larger area making the touch up a bigger job. At this point you might want to bring out the airbrush and mask off the surrounding area (if you don't Murphy's law will ensure you spray somewhere you didn't mean to). But when masking be very careful not to put tape in a decal unless you want it removed* 

 

* masking tape is a very effective way of lifting decals from a model unless of course you want to remove a decal, in which case it becomes impervious to all known tapes and chemical solutions

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[Brigbeale]

13 minutes ago, LostCosmonauts said:

Nice work on both the model and getting your printer running and dialled in. I eventually wore the plastic extruder out but the metal one has been bombproof since. You’ve had more luck than me with the 0.2mm nozzle, I can’t get them to run reliably at all

The set up must have been more luck than judgement then. I just put the 0.2 nozzle in and told Cura what it was and away it went. Although sometimes the print does break way from the bed. I just clean the glass, re-coat it with hairspray and it’s usually fine for a month or two depending on the print.  I also use brims to help hold smaller parts in place when printing.

[qn30jEkPz7]

18 minutes ago, Brigbeale said:

The set up must have been more luck than judgement then. I just put the 0.2 nozzle in and told Cura what it was and away it went. Although sometimes the print does break way from the bed. I just clean the glass, re-coat it with hairspray and it’s usually fine for a month or two depending on the print.  I also use brims to help hold smaller parts in place when printing.

It’s jams that were the problem when I tried switching from 0.4mm to the 0.2 - started off fine and adhere ok (magnetic bendy bed) but at some random point flow stops and the head is left waving around impotently in fresh air. Clear it out, try again,... repeat

 

Happy enough to stick to the 0.4mm for now to save what little hair I have left

[bigbadbadge]

I missed the end of this build, sorry, looks absolutely fantastic,  I do love these restorations. Great work. 

Chris