A Twin That Did Not Get Away - Eduard 1/48 Bf-110C ***FINISHED***

[Ray_W]

11 hours ago, Retired Bob said:

That is one good looking model, superb workmanship.  Looking forward to the next installment.

Thanks Bob, I can see the end on this one.

 

14 hours ago, jean said:

Well done!

Thanks JR for your very kind words. It really has been a delight. Enjoying it.

 

16 hours ago, Rabbit Leader said:

Just catching up on this build again Ray,

Thanks Dave for the nice remarks. As we discussed before, a subject that was not on my to-do list other than probably in a G-4 configuration. As it turned out, I am glad I picked this one up for the Group Build. A delightful kit.

 

[PeterB]

On 9/5/2020 at 8:31 AM, Graham Boak said:

There were apparently two different versions of 65, one (the earlier?) being considerably bluer than the other.  As this difference was not represented on early sets of colour  chips (if it is now?) then there was much room for confusion.  76 was also not a pure grey but a blue-grey, at least until the very late war pale version.

 

However, a beautifully done model.

This is something I have mentioned a couple of times of late with reference to the old Humbrol Authentic range, According to Ullman in his Hikoki book on Luftwaffe colours, the early (1938) RLM 65 was quite a bright light blue but in 1941 it was "toned down" somewhat, and the "chips" in the book show it darker and perhaps greyer. Humbrol did the same thing as I recall, whether deliberately or not. The original HG 5 was very similar to Hu 65 "Aircraft Blue" but the second or perhaps third tin I bought was definitely greyer. None of the paint ranges I have used seem to offer two variations. The Xtracrylic I used on my Emils actually looks closer to the late version to my mind, but then so do many of the colour profiles I have seen! As ever, colours are at times a very complicated subject.

 

That is a really nice looking model Ray!

 

Pete 

Edited September 6, 2020 by PeterB

[Ray_W]

We are getting very close to the finish line.

 

 

Finished with the panel liner and removed most leaving a little residual on the surface as a filter. Let it dry over night and then polished it lightly with a microfibre cloth before applying the flat coat - Mr Color GX114  Flat Super Smooth Clear. I thin it with Mr Color Leveling Thinner and then spray it building up the level of flat that I want. I am not a fan of super flat models, preferring a variation in the level of shine. Seems more realistic to my eye. I'll even go back and polish panels to get the look I want. 

 

 

As you can see, it is now on its very robust undercarriage. Masks removed. Props and spinners finished and fitted for the photo opportunity.

 

 

I weathered the props. Some discoloration in the blade front using a sponge technique.

 

 

 

And more on the rear, breaking through to aluminium on the leading edge towards the tip.

 

 

Now I have a number of small items to fit plus exhaust staining, some panel line shading and chipping/scuff marks. All going well it should be finished in the next couple for days.  I'll then be into my Pat Hughes Spitfire.

 

I've come up with dual build theme for these two BoB builds. Pat Hughes aircraft was finished in the "B" scheme and I am finishing this Bf-110 also in the "Bee" Scheme. Well OK they might be hornets or wasps but bees sound more fun.

 

 

 Ray

[Stew Dapple]

That's looking seriously nice Ray  

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

[Ray_W]

51 minutes ago, Stew Dapple said:

That's looking seriously nice Ray  

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

Thanks Stew.

[Greg Law]

Looks very good Ray.

Did you use the dark brown panel liner?

I just finished painting all the addon bits of canopy. For this plane and the Hurricane. 

Last night I added the gear to the Heinkel.  What a drama that was, so I thought I would 

Give landing gear a rest today.

[Ray_W]

8 minutes ago, Greg Law said:

Did you use the dark brown panel liner?

Hi Greg,

 

Yes Tamiya Dark Brown shaken regularly.

 

I note you also black undercoat which naturally highlights (or should I say lowlights) the panel lines. Many areas I may not use the panel liner being already happy with the black based shadow effect.

 

I do like the overall brown filter effect created. Very subdued. I don't go out of my way to produce this by adding more panel liner than needed. It is just a nice outcome from the clean up. I'll have to post some pics on how I do this. Will do so in the Spitfire build.

 

18 minutes ago, Greg Law said:

I just finished painting all the addon bits of canopy.

A number of add-ons for this kit. I hope to make some good progress this evening.

 

Ray

[Greg Law]

I used that method on the Do 215 and Ju 188. More by accident than plan.

[Ray_W]

1 minute ago, Greg Law said:

I used that method on the Do 215 and Ju 188. More by accident than plan.

The best learning in this hobby of ours comes from the accidental discoveries. 

[Greg Law]

I don't want to criticize, so I have been weighing up whether to say something.  In the end i decide it might be helpful. I think the mottling is a bit light. It could be just the photo effect. I know it happens to me all the time.

[Greg Law]

By the way don't try and change it. My comment was more for future builds.

 

[Ray_W]

36 minutes ago, Greg Law said:

By the way don't try and change it. My comment was more for future builds.

Hi Greg,

 

No problem at all. I appreciate the critique and will usually correct if need be. In this case it will not be necessary as it was a conscious decision to go with this scheme with two assumptions:

 

1. That the Gunze RLM 02 and 65/76 blend is a reasonable match and I believe this to be the case.

2. That Eduard's profile using RLM 02 only for the side mottle is reasonable.

 

As we know the period photo of my subject is of very poor quality so some assumptions are necessary. I needed to search for other inspiration to confirm the possible scheme. The important thing is did they do 110 side mottle schemes with RLM 02 only and what was the pattern.

 

The following image was the look I was trying to achieve. Note that there is no dark mottle to match the RLM 71 bands. In my view just RLM 02 mottle giving a "dirty" side fuselage effect. There are other images of Bf-110's similarly attired. Seems reasonable for my subject. I'll go with Eduard.

 

 

Here's my subject in natural light.

 

 

 

I think it's close enough allowing for the vagaries of field application in France 1940.

 

As always there are some mistakes. As mentioned before, I suggest that the Eduard splinter scheme is wrong. I wish I had picked up on this earlier. Never mind. Next time. Also, I cutout the wing tip lights and replaced the housing with shaped clear sprue and internal light. I think this is wrong. Early model 110's may of had the indented wing tip and bulb only. I'm sure there are others. Feel free to call them out.

 

Ray  

 

 

 

 

[Greg Law]

I see what you were after and the natural light clearly shows the mottle better and much more like I thought it should be. I think you have it just right.

I get quite annoyed sometimes when the camera doesn't show what I'm seeing. It happens more often than not.

Thanks for taking this on board. It certainly helps myself and others see what a good mottle looks like.

[Ray_W]

4 minutes ago, Greg Law said:

It certainly helps myself and others see what a good mottle looks like.

Well for this case only. I always try to find images of the chosen subject. 

 

I thought I could of gone a fraction more but as so often with these effects, it's knowing when to stop. Usually less is more.

[Greg Law]

It did help me seeing the daylight images as I plan to do a similar one soon. 

A Erprobungsgruppe 210 S9+HK or S9+CK

 

[Ray_W]

3 hours ago, Greg Law said:

I plan to do a similar one soon. 

 

Greg, I look forward to seeing it.

 

One thing I wish I had done was to do the canopy masking correctly. Much of the framing is internal like the Ju-87,  I got lazy using the Eduard masks and should of masked myself. Not greatly noticeable but also not that difficult a masking job to get it right in the first place.

 

Also, Eduard provide a nice piece of etch to go on the pilot's side windows capturing the look in the open position.

 

 

The only thing is gluing this PE to clear styrene and getting all edges down nicely without lifting is tricky. Easily make a mess with CA. I tried Future as an adhesive and was unhappy so decided to take another approach and that was to only use the detail strip at the bottom.

 

I cut the strip off using my Xuron PE cutters. Without a doubt the best tool I have for PE. With a little care you can cut PE parts off under control and with no clean up needed. They will also strip a slither off if required. You can see I inadvertently did this on the left hand piece.

 

 

I then clamped the strip where I wanted it with self gripping tweezers.

 

 

This gave me access to glue the inside edge by drawing in thin CA using capillary action and my favorite applicator. A piece of wire.

 

 

The result was pleasing. Now ready to mask and touch up the framing and then carefully polish the clear portion.

 

 

Ray

[Retired Bob]

4 hours ago, Ray_W said:

One thing I wish I had done was to do the canopy masking correctly. Much of the framing is internal like the Ju-87,  I got lazy using the Eduard masks and should of masked myself. Not greatly noticeable but also not that difficult a masking job to get it right in the first place.

I found this out when I built my Hasegawa Ju-87, the Eduard mask set only supplied masking from the outside when there was a lot of framing just on the inside, so I ended up making my own from Tamiya tape.  I have just ordered  a set of Montex internal and external canopy masks and a Yahu instrument panel for my Dragon Bf-110D/E.  Strange how this kit has been out for years and all of sudden there is a lot of AM being released now.  Your Bf-110 is looking really good, I think your mottle is a good match to the photo.

[Greg Law]

I hadn't even noticed the Pe frame. I will check that out. Thanks for the tip.

[Ray_W]

2 hours ago, Retired Bob said:

I found this out when I built my Hasegawa Ju-87, the Eduard mask set only supplied masking from the outside when there was a lot of framing just on the inside, so I ended up making my own from Tamiya tape.  I have just ordered  a set of Montex internal and external canopy masks and a Yahu instrument panel for my Dragon Bf-110D/E.  Strange how this kit has been out for years and all of sudden there is a lot of AM being released now.  Your Bf-110 is looking really good, I think your mottle is a good match to the photo.

Thanks Bob, 

 

With the Bf-110 the tricky part is removing the external framing that should be internal. The Montex set may not correct. Just replicating the external framing but providing for an internal paint colour mask. In the end one of those things that is not obvious and maybe not worth the hassle.

 

The 110 canopy does not have the height of the Ju-87 so not as much room room to move. I built the Italeri Ju-87 D-5 earlier this year with some significant mods to get the shape and dimensions right. I fully removed the canopy framing giving me the option to correctly represent internal and external framing. Much better.  

 

 

[Ray_W]

1 hour ago, Greg Law said:

I hadn't even noticed the Pe frame. I will check that out. Thanks for the tip.

In hindsight, the self-locking tweezers worked so well that maybe if I had used four, one on each corner,  I probably could of used the supplied PE without the mod. 

[Greg Law]

I have decided not to use the Pe frames because my shaky hands will make a mess of the glass work for sure.

This day has started badly as is. I seem to have lost one of the sets of exhausts for my Heinkel in the last two days.

[Retired Bob]

18 hours ago, Ray_W said:

With the Bf-110 the tricky part is removing the external framing that should be internal. The Montex set may not correct. Just replicating the external framing but providing for an internal paint colour mask. In the end one of those things that is not obvious and maybe not worth the hassle.

In anticipation of the AM for my Dragon Bf 110 arriving, I had quick session of kit fondling today.  The Dragon kit provides a separate internal roll frame plus two canopies, a one piece item and the other with everything opened up.  Detail is very good, with optional positions for all control surfaces including the leading edge slats.  In comparison to the Eduard kit I think the detail is a lot sharper, though Eduard  have upped their game with their latest kits.  The Dragon M/G and canons are works of art, almost tempted to open the nose section to show them off.

[Retired Bob]

18 hours ago, Greg Law said:

This day has started badly as is. I seem to have lost one of the sets of exhausts for my Heinkel in the last two days.

Bits of these kits seem to play hide and seek, I have had to borrow an engine cover from  another ICM He 111 kit.  Quickboost make a set of hollowed resin exhausts for the H-3 if it doesn't turn up.

[Ray_W]

8 hours ago, Retired Bob said:

The Dragon M/G and canons are works of art, almost tempted to open the nose section to show them off.

And I went to the trouble of nicely closing everything up on the Eduard kit 😁

[Greg Law]

8 hours ago, Retired Bob said:

In anticipation of the AM for my Dragon Bf 110 arriving, I had quick session of kit fondling today.  The Dragon kit provides a separate internal roll frame plus two canopies, a one piece item and the other with everything opened up.  Detail is very good, with optional positions for all control surfaces including the leading edge slats.  In comparison to the Eduard kit I think the detail is a lot sharper, though Eduard  have upped their game with their latest kits.  The Dragon M/G and canons are works of art, almost tempted to open the nose section to show them off.

Yes i also have this kit. I have stolen the sight out of it for now as the Eduard one disappeared during construction.  I always seem to loose them. 

I plan to do my next one with it.