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Hi All

 

Venturing outside my box for this, as I don't usually go for boring grey jets, but this one won't be 🤞

 

DSCF9611.jpg

 

It's a well known Eduard multi-version boxing, and by all accounts it's a straight forward build.

 

I'm trying a new make of paint (for me, anyway) AK Interactive as I thought their cockpit turquoise was the closest.

DSCF9612.jpg

 

I'll be doing it as the boxart, Cuban Airforce from '68ish.

 

Seems the trickiest part of this kit is matching the paint scheme. The instructions call for Mr Colour that I don't have, but I do have the respective Tamiya colours that t'Interweb suggests.

MrC C323 Light Blue = Tamiya XF-23 Flat Light Blue

MrC C303 Green = Tamiya XF-58 Flat Olive green

Over

MrC C324 Light Grey = Tamiya XF-20 Flat medium grey

DSCF9613.jpg

 

Being less than convinced, I had a look through some other Tamiya pots and found some that were a closer match between the printed colours and online photos

DSCF9614.jpg

 

Possibly the X-5 Green is a little green, and possibly the X-14 Blue is a little blue, but other similar Cuban camo aircraft at the Air Museum Havana are quite garish.

 

024.JPG

 

029.JPG

 

037.JPG

 

Images found on http://www.sbap.be/museum/cuba/cuba.htm

 

I know to never trust museum schemes, so I might go with XF-58 & X-14 over XF-23 or some variation thereof.

DSCF9615.jpg

 

Anyhoo, on to the parts.

 

You get four IP choices (clear flat, clear raised detail, grey flat and grey raised detail), and decals for them

DSCF9616.jpg

 

You'll notice the decals are transparent, so you will have no problem matching your cockpit colour to them :P

 

And also, this particular machine had a non standard Black IP :closedeyes:

 

Regardless, I started with the wheel wells

DSCF9619.jpg

This is the only ejector pin mark I've so far found that wasn't in a sealed cavity. Granted you'd have to be in an anatomically unlikely position to see it, but there it was.

 

I would have taken more pics of the assembly process, but the darn thing just about fell together itself before I could stop it

DSCF9620.jpg

 

Have a look at this

DSCF9621.jpg

 

It's the nose gear doors on their sprue.

 

They're attached to the sprue by gates that COME FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE LOCATING LUGS!!!!

 

Was that so hard?

 

Parts ready for paint

DSCF9622.jpg

 

And painted with AK-2303 Interior Green

DSCF9623.jpg

 

There was a choice between the Interior Green and the Interior Grey as both colours appeared on aircraft.

 

I'll let these dry then Pledge them, more Soviet colours later.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

 

Many tiny parts go into these wheel caves, and many of those tiny parts will mostly be only just visible.

DSCF9648.jpg

 

The detail and moulding are spiffing, plenty to pick out and add to for the conscientious builder.

DSCF9649.jpg

 

Me, I'm just concerned I'll forget to paint that fuselage sidewall where it meets the well

DSCF9650.jpg

 

You can see in!

DSCF9651.jpg

 

Also, I'm tempted to blank off the back of the landing light holes with silver chocolate biscuit wrapper (it's a hard job, etc) fill 'em with Maskol, and Krystal Klear them once painting is finished.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

 

Starting on the engine, I didn't have the required Bright Green, but I did have Flat Green

DSCF9668.jpg

 

In the AK Interactive set is AK479 Aluminium, and AK480 Dark Aluminium. I chose to try the Dark Akuminium in the fuselage where the engine would be, as it would be dark in there.

DSCF9669.jpg

 

It smelled a bit strong as I sprayed it on, then the penny dropped that these were two Enamel based metalics in amongst four Acrylic based colours  :banghead:

DSCF9670.jpg

 

There's some Tamiya Brown Panel Accent on there too, not that much of it will be seen

DSCF9671.jpg

 

The three adjusters on the Burnt Iron ring can be dispense with because they can't be focused on

DSCF9672.jpg

 

Another great detail of the kind that I'm beginning to appreciate about Eduard, are the tiny locating blips on the inside surface of the forward engine bulkhead that shows the correct rotation to glue it into one half of the fuselage.

DSCF9673.jpg

 

And in general, all the locating lugs and pins are offset so the cylindrical parts only fit in one position 👍

 

 

Anyhoo, on the the drivers' bit at the front

 

I'm going to try the decal on the embossed IP, but it can be painted up, or use the decals on relief free parts supplied, so no more sanding surface detail off.

DSCF9674.jpg

 

There are six parts just for the IP, but oddly, the decals supplied for the side panels don't have parts to go on, some plastic card must be found. They are a good fit though.

DSCF9676.jpg

(That's just the decals on the backing paper to try them in)

 

At the front of the cockpit opening there are two parts that look like they cover in on top of the gap left forward of the IP. However, they don't seem to fit fully, and also leave a gap

DSCF9677.jpg

 

Also however, reading right to the end of the instructions, there is a piece that covers this gap for a seamless coaming

DSCF9678.jpg

 

And as for the section ahead of that...

DSCF9679.jpg

Etc.

 

More blindingly obvious seam hiding.

 

Right, crazy colour time, bring on AK-2301 Cockpit Turquoise

DSCF9680.jpg

 

Went on a dream, looks nothing like that colour in real life. The piece of plastic card is for the side panels.

 

Back to the IP, a coat of Vallejo VA71.251 NATO Black, and the decal trimmed and fitted

DSCF9681.jpg

 

Bear with me here, some applications of Fuzzy Micro Sol later

DSCF9685.jpg

 

I'll be fine once I stop wobbling.

 

Matt coat and some Kristal Klear should see it done, I'll do the same on the rest of the stickers later.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Hi All

 

The decals for the sides are for the full surface, but I decided to just cut out and use the parts with colour on

DSCF9686.jpg

 

More Micro Sol called for

DSCF9687.jpg

 

After treatment and a matt coat

DSCF9688.jpg

 

Here's the IP with Klear dials

DSCF9689.jpg

 

And this is how it goes dry fitted together

DSCF9690.jpg

 

DSCF9691.jpg

 

DSCF9692.jpg

 

DSCF9693.jpg

 

I'll let that cure, do the nose, then it'll be time to zip it together.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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If I may offer a suggestion, consider mixing some XF-23 with the X-14, tried straight X-14 on my Su-34 the weekend, and it was awfully vibrant. Mixed a 1:2 XF-23:X-14 last night and now looks more like a military craft and less like an anime spaceship. Going to try a 1:1 tonight and see how that comes out.  

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4 hours ago, Evil_Toast_RSA said:

If I may offer a suggestion, consider mixing some XF-23 with the X-14, tried straight X-14 on my Su-34 the weekend, and it was awfully vibrant. Mixed a 1:2 XF-23:X-14 last night and now looks more like a military craft and less like an anime spaceship. Going to try a 1:1 tonight and see how that comes out.  

Hi, thanks, I'm actually using the AK Interactive AK-2301 Cockpit Turquoise.

I know what you mean though, once my camera and my hands stop playing silly buggers I'll be able to get a representative shot.

Until then, here's X-14, XF-23, and AK-2301

With flash

DSCF9696.jpg

 

Without flash

DSCF9697.jpg

 

Good luck with your mixing, what are you building?

 

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Nice cockpit work, Steve! 👍 The IP looks realistic. As for me, the AK Interactive AK-2301 Cockpit Turquoise is very authentic.

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2 hours ago, ProfSparks said:

Hi, thanks, I'm actually using the AK Interactive AK-2301 Cockpit Turquoise.

I know what you mean though, once my camera and my hands stop playing silly buggers I'll be able to get a representative shot.

Until then, here's X-14, XF-23, and AK-2301

With flash

DSCF9696.jpg

 

Without flash

DSCF9697.jpg

 

Good luck with your mixing, what are you building?

 

 

Cheers

Steve

 

Referring to the main camo scheme from your first post. X-14 or XF-23 on their own are going to be on opposite ends of the spectrum, if the pics you linked are anything to go by. 

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2 hours ago, Evil_Toast_RSA said:

Referring to the main camo scheme from your first post. X-14 or XF-23 on their own are going to be on opposite ends of the spectrum, if the pics you linked are anything to go by. 

Ah, my bad, I thought you were referring to the interior colour above :doh:

 

Yes I now see what you mean, and I would be very interested in the results of your paint tone!

 

 

Cheers

Steve

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When you get to the camouflage scheme may I suggest you use a mask or masking putty. I think those colors are will loose their individuality with too soft of an edge. I had this problem on an A-1 Skyraider at 1:48 and found masking improved the final finish tremendously. 

 

I mean really and I have argued this point if you reduce any sprayed on scheme from 1:1 to 1:48 the scale would be representative of an almost unfeathered edge. Many good models have been ruined by out of scale airbrushing.

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6 hours ago, ProfSparks said:

 

 

Yes I now see what you mean, and I would be very interested in the results of your paint tone!

 

 

 

Probably best to play around your end, my photo taking abilities rate a 3/10 on the potato scale. Been thinking, maybe mixing XF-18 Medium Blue (if you have it) instead of XF-23 to the X-16 might yield a better result? That blue from the pics is certainly interesting. Another thing to consider, bought an Academy 1/48 Fishbed this weekend for an absolute bargain (about 9 quid in your money) and been looking at doing an Indian version, and stumbled across a post that claimed they used whatever local paints they had at a squadron level to repaint the planes, so maybe the same applied to the Cubans when they got round to repainting them which gives you plenty of leeway when choosing a blue?  

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Hi All

 

On 8/5/2020 at 4:17 AM, Night Owl said:

When you get to the camouflage scheme may I suggest you use a mask or masking putty. I think those colors are will loose their individuality with too soft of an edge. I had this problem on an A-1 Skyraider at 1:48 and found masking improved the final finish tremendously. 

 

I mean really and I have argued this point if you reduce any sprayed on scheme from 1:1 to 1:48 the scale would be representative of an almost unfeathered edge. Many good models have been ruined by out of scale airbrushing.

Hi Night Owl, guilty as charged! I still have difficulty spraying up to a hard edge without leaving a ridge, but one day...

 

On 8/5/2020 at 6:24 AM, Evil_Toast_RSA said:

Probably best to play around your end, my photo taking abilities rate a 3/10 on the potato scale. Been thinking, maybe mixing XF-18 Medium Blue (if you have it) instead of XF-23 to the X-16 might yield a better result? That blue from the pics is certainly interesting. Another thing to consider, bought an Academy 1/48 Fishbed this weekend for an absolute bargain (about 9 quid in your money) and been looking at doing an Indian version, and stumbled across a post that claimed they used whatever local paints they had at a squadron level to repaint the planes, so maybe the same applied to the Cubans when they got round to repainting them which gives you plenty of leeway when choosing a blue?  

Hi Evil_Toast_RSA, I like the idea of a 'Potato Scale', my sort of yardstick :thumbsup:

I also like the idea of mixing my own shade of blue.

 

Before then though, parts are coming together slowly.

 

The main components of the fuselage halves are in place before it's joined together.

DSCF9711.jpg

 

There are two more bulkheads that go in the centre section, but they fit through the opening

DSCF9712.jpg

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Hi All

 

The lower section of the main wing with the main gear wells attached slots right into the main body.

 

The forward join is almost seamless

DSCF9740.jpg

 

But the rear will need some filling. This is anecdotally the worst join in the kit, so I'm ok with it being underneath

DSCF9741.jpg

 

The tail fin and associated spine hide the top fuselage join all the way to the canopy, so no need to even snip off the sprue gate!

DSCF9742.jpg

 

Another beautiful fit, this is going together like a bought one.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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I like what you’ve done with the cockpit, particularly the side panels.

I’d be interested to hear what you think of the AK paints, I’ve only used their metallic paints so far but have been very impressed.

 

John

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Hi All

 

Not a great deal of progress. There are a few teeny scoops and vents etc to be stuck to the rear of the fuselage, they're so small as to be easily dropped and lost, not so easy to be found and attached.

 

Apart from them, I remembered to put in the lights on the lower wing sections prior to fixing on the upper wing sections.

 

The clear parts were placed with their backs on a small piece of silver foil wrapper, and Pledge wicked in round the edge to seal them on

DSCF9749.jpg

 

They were then roughly cut out, fitted in position, and more Pledge dropped in the gap to seal them on

DSCF9750.jpg

 

They don't look too bad, I just hope I don't push them loose when I cover them in Maskol before spraying.

DSCF9752.jpg

 

Come to think of it, I also hope I remember to cover them in Maskol before spraying!

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Hi All

 

A landmark achievement, (almost) all the little scoops, vents, and fins are on!

DSCF9763.jpg

 

DSCF9764.jpg

 

There are just two tiny bent pipe thingies to go on the underside wingtip extremities, but no prizes for guessing for what will happen to them if I fit them now.

 

On the subject of wingtip fit, I'd probably be inclined to attach the upper wing surfaces to the lower section BEFORE setting that into the fuselage opening, as I've apparently set mine in with just under 0,5mm offset to one side. One tip was unusually (for this kit) snug, while the other side left a narrow (again, less than 0,5mm, but unusual for this kit) gap. Easily sorted by picking up a tube of PPP and then putting it down again.

 

From here it's mask up the gear bays with doors and see how much of a mess I can make with paint!

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Hi All

 

Guess what, reading further through the instructions again I discovered a few more fins and greeblies to fit on the underside! I'll leave those off as well until I've finished painting the topside.

 

Back on the topside, the couple of plates forward of the cockpit fit beautifully, as does the canopy

DSCF9786.jpg

 

I'm going to do it closed, so while it's having a relaxing Pledge bath, I fitted the IP and cowling

DSCF9787.jpg

 

There is a pair of teeny parts to fit to that too!

 

I'm not sure that the red dot on the rev counter under the bonnet is strictly a factory item, but we'll see how much of it can be seen once the Candy Coat is on.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

 

Creeping forwards with this one, the canopy edge and rear view periscope were lined with a light blue marker

DSCF9822.jpg

 

Eventually masked

DSCF9866.jpg

 

And finally secured to the body

DSCF9867.jpg

 

The front windscreen is glued, the canopy lid is held on with Maskol so I can remove it to fit the seat later.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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On 7/24/2020 at 8:58 PM, ProfSparks said:

Also, I'm tempted to blank off the back of the landing light holes with silver chocolate biscuit wrapper (it's a hard job, etc) fill 'em with Maskol, and Krystal Klear them once painting is finished.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

Steve,

 

I've been using the following technique: attach a piece of kitchen foil into the inner surface of the landing light lens with clear, two sided Scotch tape and cut off the excess. Then attach the lens into position with liquid glue or MEK. Once dry, sand down and polish. Mask with Tamiya tape (use a suitable tool to create a circular mask).

 

Cheers,

Antti

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Hi All

 

On 9/12/2020 at 10:07 PM, Antti_K said:

Steve,

 

I've been using the following technique: attach a piece of kitchen foil into the inner surface of the landing light lens with clear, two sided Scotch tape and cut off the excess. Then attach the lens into position with liquid glue or MEK. Once dry, sand down and polish. Mask with Tamiya tape (use a suitable tool to create a circular mask).

 

Cheers,

Antti

Hi Antti, that's a neat idea, I'll have to try it on my next one

 

 

Canopy got an underlining of the AK Interactive AK-2301 Cockpit Turquoise, bad fit is all my own work (but it is just Maskol...)

DSCF9888.jpg

 

The chosen green is Tamiya XF-58 Olive Green

DSCF9956.jpg

 

I do like Tamiya paints, thinned with IPA the go on lurvley.

 

Next up is to release my snake collection

DSCF9957.jpg

 

Then a secret mix of X-14 Sky Blue, XF-8 Flat Blue, and XF-76 Grey Green (IJN)

DSCF9958.jpg

 

Secret even from me, because I can't remember what ratio they went in.

 

However, I did remember to save the last dregs of this mix for the inevitable touching up.

 

Looks a bit baby blue?

 

Ta Dah!

DSCF9959.jpg

 

And

DSCF9960.jpg

 

That'll do Fishbed, that'll do.

 

I'll let it solidify, give it a coat of Pledge, then work on getting the greeblies on the underside before paint.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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