Shark444 Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 I suspect there’s more than one link to tips and tricks on biplane rigging on BM, but finding them on my phone seems a bridge too far. I’m building the new (2014) Revell 1/48 kit of the PT-17 Stearman (PT-27 in RCAF livery to be exact). Looking for top tips on options for rigging. I do have EZ-Line, but it seems a bit “jagged” on the edges, so am looking for something more closely representative of wire. Any help is appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmaas Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 If you are friends with anyone working in a plant the uses woven ceramic wire see if you can liberate one of the spools that 's almost out of wire. It is truly magical stuff. It snaps from perpendicular pressure but you can hold a yard length out from one end and it might drop a mm. at the other end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 I don't like EZ-Line for the very reason you mention. I'd suggest monofilament thread, available where sewing supplies are sold. Most brands come in a "smoke" colored variety, which I find ideal. However, this requires drilling many tiny holes at the attachment points. The woven ceramic wire sounds intriguing, but I've never seen any. Other options include fly fishing tippet line, stainless steel wire, photocopier corona wire, and stretched sprue. Here are some good sites with suggestions on rigging biplane models: http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2001/11/stuff_eng_tech_rigging.htm http://www.austinsms.org/article_seaman.php https://ww1aircraftmodels.com/page6.html https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=5359 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leyreynolds Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 Try Albion Alloys 0.2mm wire. It can be easily cut to length, fixed with white glue and does not sag. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 EZ Line is easily the worst of the Lycra thread options. It's like dismissing enamel based on Humbrol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnerboy Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 15 hours ago, Space Ranger said: photocopier corona wire, Nooooooo! 😷 I've tried fishing line & EZ ( only ever rigged two kits ) cant say I was really happy with either, but maybe it was the user rather than the product. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul821 Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 18 hours ago, Shark444 said: Looking for top tips on options for rigging My answer is don't I have never successfully rugged a biplane and avoid then like the plague. More seriously I have used ez-line in other circumstances (such as my current Cutty Sark build in the "kit you built as a job GB) and have no issuess with it. However at 1:48th you will need something that looks line wire rigging not black elastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toryu Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 I use Griffin Jewelry Wire. It's steel wire wrapped in plastic that easily connects with super glue. Available at different grades. It has the added advantage that it's strong enough to allow structural rigging, i.e. fixing the wings firmly by pulling the wire through and fixing it with super glue. Mind that US rigging wires were not at all thin, around 0.25 mm in 1/48! Most models I see have way to thin EZ lines. See my P-12 here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 7 hours ago, sinnerboy said: Nooooooo! 😷 I've tried fishing line & EZ ( only ever rigged two kits ) cant say I was really happy with either, but maybe it was the user rather than the product. The nylon monofilament I suggested is called "Invisible Thread." And the corona wire is used in the heating element in the fuser of photocopiers. It has nothing to do with the on-going pandemic; it's just an unfortunate name under current circumstances, much like this: 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogsbody Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 I've got this. Admittedly, I've never used it yet. That 1/72 scale stuff is barely visible, even when wearing my glasses. Chris 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 And there's this, which i forgot to mention. it very well may be the same as the Infini product: https://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-rigging-and-various/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 3 minutes ago, Space Ranger said: And there's this, which I forgot to mention. It very well may be the same as the Infini product: https://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-rigging-and-various/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crimea River Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 (edited) My favourite method uses this, picked up at sewing or knitting stores: The method is described part way down this post and later on in the same thread. Edited July 15, 2020 by Crimea River 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealMrEd Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Plus 1 for Invisible thread on 1/72, at least: Ed 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seawinder Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 For me it's monofilament tippet line (generally available in .004", .006" and .008" diameters from fishing outlets) for bracing wires, and invisible thread (basically the same sort of stuff but thinner - I figure around .002" diameter) for control wires. Yes, you have to drill small holes, but it's very strong and yields structural stability, and it can be heat shrunk if you're careful. I build in 1/48, so I generally use .004" and .006" diameter line. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunna Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 On 15/07/2020 at 02:43, dogsbody said: I've got this. Admittedly, I've never used it yet. That 1/72 scale stuff is barely visible, even when wearing my glasses. Chris Mate, I just would never contemplate rigging in 1.72 scale! I need to get reading glasses and I have ordered a hands free magnifying glass. I am finding things much harder to see now that I am getting into my older years!😟 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 On 7/15/2020 at 4:05 AM, Space Ranger said: And there's this, which i forgot to mention. it very well may be the same as the Infini product: https://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-rigging-and-various/ It's not the same but is similar, I have used both the above and also EZLine. EZLine is not round in profile and it is noticeable (which is why it is popular with WW1 RFC/RAF enthusiasts as the rigging on most British WW1 aircraft was actually aerodynamically shaped). I have found that EZLine can fray and give that jagged appearance and it doesn't always grab the superglue straight away which can be a problem if your hands aren't super steady. If you get twists in it the profile really shows up too. The UVDR and Infini threads are round in profile, come in various thicknesses (3 for UVDR and multiple thicknesses for the Infini if you include their rigging threads for ships) and seem to grab instantly to the superglue which is much better in my opinion. There are various guides to rigging model aircraft available but the best ones can usually be found on specialist WW1 aircraft forums where rigging is 'bread and butter' stuff to those guys. Check out WW1aircraftmodels.com for more information. Duncan B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWM Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 I am using EZ - it is enough good for me in this sense, that I am still happy with the results. Of course I know that it is not ideal, but it reasonable compromise for effect and effort (~5 hours per biplane). Cheers J-W 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Evans Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 Hi, My tip would be to plan how to do the rigging before you start the model rather than finish the model and try to work it out then. Having said that, you will probably change your plan a bit as you go along, but that's modelling for you. Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 I use various thicknesses of clear nylon monofilament fishing line. I drill holes right through each wing to attach the lines with fast setting superglue. As above, preplanning is very necessary for this method All are 1/72 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 Extra. Heat stretched sprue. For this version of that you need a source of the polythene type plastic used on 1/76 -1/72 figures. I heat stretched some blue-grey sprue from some Airfix WW1 Frenchies. I managed to get a number of lengths, thin as hair and about 5.5ft long The polythene sprue has a very slight amount of stretch in it With these lengths of heat stretched polythene sprue I managed to rig this Fokker. Route was; from undercarriage frame to wing tip, through the wing then to the top side A frame, to wing tip, through wing then back to undercarriage frame, all in one piece. Times 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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