Tamiya TS-13 Clear Miracle clear or demon clear - an experiment

[Microbike]

9 minutes ago, Andy J said:

watch the clear landing on the basecoat if you can see ripples or waves move the airbrush further away get it right and it will look as flat as a mill pond

Hi Andy 

the problem for me is that my eyesight is not so good anymore so I can’t really see the ripples So I just tend to spray and watch the gloss build up but I don’t always get to right every time I prefer a second follow on coat to a run 

[Andy J]

9 minutes ago, Codger said:

As you ALWAYS do. Thanks for amplifying Andy.

No problem I'm always happy to share knowledge even though it's cost me a small fortune in plastic spoons to find the answers. The GT40 basecoat was tamiya X1 three coats finishing up with probably 65 - 70% leveling thinner by the final coat. All tamiya paints work best when sprayed in wet coats however it's a very thin line between a wet coat and disaster ie. runs and pooling of the paint. Hence why I have a draw full of plastic spoons ready for battle. Oh and the reason for the mr colour thinner well it's in the product name the word " leveling " says it all 🙂

[Andy J]

17 minutes ago, Microbike said:

Hi Andy 

the problem for me is that my eyesight is not so good anymore so I can’t really see the ripples So I just tend to spray and watch the gloss build up but I don’t always get to right every time I prefer a second follow on coat to a run 

Try a magnifying headset with built in light there not expensive and the difference is amazing. Use mr colour leveling thinner it's the best product on the market it really does make a huge difference 🙂

[Microbike]

9 minutes ago, Andy J said:

Use mr colour leveling thinner it's the best product on the market it really does make a huge difference

Will give it a go I have some in my modelling cupboard so will try it next time round 

[Spiny]

23 hours ago, Microbike said:

I might be having better luck with TS13 because the airbrush spray a lot less volume and possible there is a difference in the way that the paint atomises and reaches the painted/decal surface? 

 

it would seem that air brushing might be a safe route than say direct painting with the rattle can - can’t be sure though 

 

I sue do have at least two new clears that I will buy and experiment with so appreciate the suggestions  

I would say this is almost certainly the case - in effect you're doing the same as putting on a mist coat in terms of volume of paint, and by association solvents which could affect the decals.

[Microbike]

21 hours ago, Spiny said:

I would say this is almost certainly the case - in effect you're doing the same as putting on a mist coat in terms of volume of paint, and by association solvents which could affect the decals.

Hi Spiny

 

I think this might explain the problem with the decal on the Honda bonnet it looks like its in a recess so the TS13 could have build up in that location and therefore attacked the decal while the Porsche the decals are for the most part of larger flat surfaces receiving by volume less TS13 so less likely to affect the decals.

 

My decals were over 10 years old so I was anticipating problems with TS13 but it did not transpire - maybe i was lucky. I think Tamiya's QC will be very good so decal quality should be good as usual and especially since they have started using Cartograph in more recent years.