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Airfix 1/35 M3 Honey


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Having finished the T34 and almost completed the T55a I’m enjoying large scale armour so I’ve decided to start on my M3, as with the previous it will be largely oob but I’m going to do a Caunter scheme as I think it’s a wonderful looking camouflage.

 

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The kit  has rubber band and link and length  tracksThe rubber band tracks are quite good and could be stuck down to get realistic sag so  I’m not entirely convinced that the individual tracks are all that much better, but I decided to use them. So I’ve started on the individual tracks, talk about fiddly, but I shall just chip away at them.

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Hi Maklo, I have just finished an M3, but in the U.S. version, although it is from Italeri, I think it is an Academy or Airfix rebox, it even includes the pieces to make a British Honey.
I tried to use the indi-link tracks, but they were too difficult for me, so I opted for the vinyl ones.
IMHO I think the result was more than good, if you want, you can see how it turned out in the RTI section, and assess what you like best about the tracks.
Cheers and TC
Francis.👍

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Afaik the Airfix kit is indeed an academy reboxing. 
 

I now have about two inches of track, we’ll see who wins. I do think they the rubber band tracks are pretty good. But since this is may first individual like build I’d like to see how they look. 

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Hi, 

I imagine you mean the saggy of the tracks, when they are indi-links, it can be molded to your liking, not without difficulty, but when they are in one piece, you have to do a trick to make it "appear".
Although I have noticed that the Honey had the side skirt, which almost hides the top of the tracks, so the saggy can be almost invisible.
I myself was thinking of doing some saggy in mine, because in boxart, the model appeared like this, but apart from the extra work to do it, I have not seen any American Stuart with saggy on the tracks, although I may be wrong, I decided to make them tense .
Cheers and TC
Francis.👍

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After a lot of fiddling I have about half of one side done. I’ll probably persevere but I too am sceptical as to wether the links will make much of a difference.

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Gave the main hull sections a blast if humbrol metalcote followed by some hairspray. This worked out well on the T34 so using the technique again. Next up give the interior a shot of white. I’m using rattle cans all the way so far, but will switch back to my trusty airbrush once I get to the camo colours.

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Took a look at some stuart pictures on the web and it does look like @FrancisGL is correct the tracks do not sag and seem to actually hog upwards a bit, very like a badly sitting set of rubber band tracks :) I think Airfix will be making a very large contribution to my spares box very soon.

 

Edited by Marklo
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  • 2 weeks later...

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Upper hull done. I’ll brush paint the various bits and bobs as I add them. Easier than trying to get the straight lines in the camo with hooks and boxes and gubbins in the way. 

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  • 2 months later...
20 hours ago, Vaastav said:

Nice work. I am sure the weathering will be great too

Thank you. I’ve only done two 1/35 tanks since returning to modelling but these are they.

 

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I’m aiming to be closer to the T55 for the Honey.

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That is a very nice looking Honey! Great job!

 

I do have a question if i may: i noticed in one of your previous posts that you base painted the model with a metal color.

Before i started into armour again recently, I've been watching lots of youtube builds and read posts here and saw that mosts people use black as a base coat and then white to create contrast before applying the camo. What is the thought behind the metal base coat? Is that for chipping later on so that metal shows through when stripping away some of the camo paint? (sorry of this is a dumb question, just haven't seen this before and am trying to learn about techniques used). 

 

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5 minutes ago, EpicPlastic said:

What is the thought behind the metal base coat? Is that for chipping later on so that metal shows through when stripping away some of the camo paint?

Yes I spray my armour with humbrol silver then hairspray then the camo for chipping.  On this build I decided to use green paint for very light chipping as I wanted a fairly clean tank, but  on my T34 I wanted a very beaten up look so used this method for chipping.

 

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Edited by Marklo
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Dust added. Chalk pastels made into a slurry with white spirits then brushed on. The nice thing is you can build it up coat by coat but if you overdo it just wait till it dries then brush it off as required.  Not sure if I’ll brush this one back or not. Will let it sit a bit while I decide. Then it’s just some rfi photos; I’ll wait for a brighter day before taking those.

Edited by Marklo
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It's up to you, but I would definitely cut that back quite a bit, as what's on the wheels/suspension, looks more like mud instead of dust, and this tank would have operated in an environment that was very dry.

 

John.

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6 hours ago, Bullbasket said:

this tank would have operated in an environment that was very dry.

I’d probably agree, it would look fine for light mud, but I want it to look dusty;  could also do with being a tiny bit greyer. Will let it settle a bit then give it a good rub down with a bristlier brush, I have a fibre glass brush and a toothbrush for that exact purpose.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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