Talbot Lago T26 racer Merit

[rob Lyttle]

I have quite an involved aeroplane build going on currently that requires some downtime and a Rest & Recreation activity. And I picked up this at the LMS a couple of weeks ago. 

The tooling is, as far as I know, the original Merit product, which means that the kit is almost contemporary with the original car! 

I had a go at the Alfa Romeo 159 racer boxed by SMER last year and good fun it was too. Again from the same origins, and the kits are very similar in most respects. 

Progress has been stop/start and that's the nature of R&R builds. But I have managed to pull off a couple of mods and improvements that I'm quite pleased with. So I've decided to start a wee thread for it to catalogue the project. 

So far, I have an engine with a couple of extra bits, 

Ignition leads, fan belt, brass exhaust manifold studs. 

Instrument panel done in Ali foil, and the footwell board, 

 

 

And the front grill has been removed with a view to fabricating something better and more see-through. 

 

 

And in a moment of contraryness I decided to go for the yellow version. 

 

I think it's a Belgian racing team that had this version and without wishing to disrespect the fabulous French racing Blue tradition, I think the yellow racer looks good too. 

So the project is chugging along as and when I need some respite from Lockheed's finest metal wonders! 😎

[johnlambert]

I look forward to seeing this come together.  I love the old, front-engined Grand Prix machines and I've thought about adding this kit to my stash.

 

It should look absolutely stunning in yellow, I've always liked the yellow Ferraris that were raced by Belgian teams (was it Ecurie Francorchamps?).

[CrazyCrank]

Some historical facts if it can help:

 

Talbot Lago T26C, wearing the yellow color devoted to Belgian teams, was driven by gentleman driver Johnny Claes in the Grand Prix races between 1948 and 1951: read this please

 

And some interesting pictures : Here

[johnlambert]

@CrazyCrank two very interesting links there, thanks for sharing.

 

Has there ever been a racing driver with a more appropriate name than Jan de Vroom? 

[Pouln]

8 hours ago, johnlambert said:

@CrazyCrank two very interesting links there, thanks for sharing.

 

Has there ever been a racing driver with a more appropriate name than Jan de Vroom? 

😃, I like that. This sounds like a Belgian or Dutch name. Vroom would mean: pious.

[rob Lyttle]

Are you telling me that Pope Pious was a Belgian racing driver ⁉️😎

 

Some great reference material there, CrazyCrank, thanks for the links. 

But of course, the more you look, the more you see.... 

In particular, the issue of the various air intake positions and carburettor types. 😳

The kit just has 2 stumps that attach to the engine side and hold the intake tube up vertically. 

It looks like the Belgian cars have the intakes fixed in a horizontal position on the carbs. This would mean some alterations to the slot cut in the bonnet cover. Oops! 

What I've done so far is scratch 3 carbs on the engine out of metallised sprue. 

Complete with 3 upwards facing attachment points for the intake tube which now has 3 legs. 

 

 

All perfectly positioned to fit through the slot in the bonnet. 

 

So, do I hack into it, redo the whole thing and cut a new slot and fill the existing?? 

The jury is still out, but right now it doesn't seem worth it ‼️

 

I made over the back axle with brass tube, and in the process I raised the position so that the axle line is higher and the car will ride a bit lower. I think these kits often have a "too high"  look and I'm hoping that this will improve the look of the ride. 

 

 

 

A pair of brakedrum discs are glued on the fixed outer tube and the axle slides right through. 

I'm working on the front axle and making my best effort to get the front wheels to steer, and I'm building in a little bit of a raised position here too, to keep the car level. 

Well, that's the plan, anyway.... 😎

[rob Lyttle]

I've just been looking at reviews for the Heller version of the T26 car. It looks like big improvement on this old one 

Especially the wheels and tyres. 

I'm going to try to get my hands on one. I've done a couple of Heller cars in 1.24 and enjoyed the builds. 

Also there's a Heller Classic Group Build scheduled for later this year. I have a couple of Planes that fit the category, 

...... But so would This! 

[rob Lyttle]

I had a couple of tries at replacement of the front grille with some silver gauze material. The difficulty is in the curved shape. 

In the end I repair the grille piece with strip and made it the right size and shape to fit the hole again. 

With the starting handle hole drilled out, it goes on a cocktail stick to be a former on a handle. 

. And with a hole poked in the gauze too, it's used to push the fabric forward into the back of the nose piece. 

 

The fabric can be pulled tighter over the former so it takes up the shape. 

Inside the nose piece, I applied some of that clear, all-purpose type glue, and in it goes. 

Once it's held in place, the former and stick can come out, or pushed around to get the gauze sitting right. More glue can be used to lay the surplus down on the inside of the nose, like mini glass fibre process. 

This glue gives time to sort things out, rather than the frantic panic of ca. 

I like the fact that the radiator can be seen in place now.

 

The nose piece is just a push fit for now. 

😎

[rob Lyttle]

Well, things are all a bit up in the air modelling wise at the moment but it does seem like the "Cars" force is with me! 

First of all I eventually found a UK trader with a stock of Heller car kits, including a small stash of Talbot Lago T26 gp racers. 

How rare is THAT ⁉️😎

So I have an order in progress and looking forward to seeing what Heller has done with replicating the car. Should be an improvement, especially regarding the wire wheels and tyres. 

This kit has this..... 

Tyres moulded on the solid wheels, and a clear transparent disc with a hint of spokes raised on the surface. 

Basically the same as I had with the Alfa Romeo 159. 

I tinkered with the spoked wheels challenge then, and made a couple of failed attempts, but learned a few things on the way. In the end I found that the quite presentable wheels I got with the Revell Mercedes Uhlenhaut Coupe were perfect in every way to fit the Alfa, and I built them so that they could be removed and swapped around, and shared between the two cars. 

But I'm back in the same conundrum! 

And I'm tinkering again. 

 

I haven't nailed it but I'm further down the rabbit hole this time 🥳

I'll keep you posted if I get anywhere. 

Notice that the wire is brass at 0.4mm.

I set off for the hobbycraft shop (jewellery making dept) for some silver coated wire at the same gauge and drew a blank. 0.2mm and 0.6mm were there on either side of an empty hook! 

Too thick and too thin...... 0.4 is the Goldielocks gauge for my next effort. 

My disappointment was eased somewhat when I found this, as a broken gift set, no paints, no glue..... 

 

Upon enquiries as to the discount possibilities on such stock, the answer turned out to be I could have it for £15.00.

So I now have one of these 😎‼️

Having been an enthusiastic slot racing kid in the 60s I have a real soft spot for the Ford GT40, Ferrari 250GTO and the Chapparal 2F.

This thing is well different to the GT40 although there's definitely a family resemblance there. 

 

So that's quite a lot of car stuff accumulated for a plane builder, isn't it? 

Edited July 14, 2020 by rob Lyttle
Clarity

[Bandsaw Steve]

On 09/07/2020 at 06:26, rob Lyttle said:

Are you telling me that Pope Pious was a Belgian racing driver ⁉️😎

 

 

 

 

Yes, but he was not especially successful eventually becoming known as ‘Pope Pious the twelfth’ due to a series of poor placings. 

 

Moses was more successful. He often ‘came forth in his Triumph’ 

[CrazyCrank]

8 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

Well, things are all a bit up in the air modelling wise at the moment but it does seem like the "Cars" force is with me! 

First of all I eventually found a UK trader with a stock of Heller car kits, including a small stash of Talbot Lago T26 gp racers. 

How rare is THAT ⁉️😎

 

You can find this kit on eBay.fr, and the seller can ship the goodies all over the world: Here

[rob Lyttle]

12 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

You can find this kit on eBay.fr,

Thanks for that, CrazyCrank. 

Although those prices are a bit high when the "International" Post is added. 

Pleased to tell you that this arrived today, 

So I'm sorted for now. 

A quick look at the contents of the box revealed a couple of issues with the Merit kit. There are some details in the cockpit and engine bay that I can have a go at. But most noticeable is that the driver's seat is well offset to the left and the big tunnel shape or conduit on the right is much bigger and wider than the Merit parts. 

Is that channel for the driveshaft to the gearbox and back axle?? 

The Heller wheels and separate tyres look very appealing for me right now 😍

[CrazyCrank]

If you want to have better spoke wheels, you could try to respoke them.

I've found a tuto where the modeler do it precisely for this car: Re-spoking wheels

Enjoy

 

[rob Lyttle]

The spoked wheel challenge at the moment is focusing on the Merit /Mistercraft kit, and it's a challenge alright. 

Several hours and trials have resulted in this.... 

 

 

If I can tame it a bit more, I'll take it through the process with a few pictures and explanation of what is going on. 

I realise that this is not the Realised Ultimate Reality of spoked wheels but, in my defence, it's better than the original one ‼️😎

[The Spadgent]

Hey! What a great job you’re doing. I love this car!😍 Those spokes are awesome. Nice work Rob.

 

Johnny.

[rob Lyttle]

I've started working on the 2nd rear wheel, and I'm trying to photograph my method step by step. 

For posterity ‼️ So everyone can have a go..... 😎

This is what the kit supplies, 

There is no separate brake hub on the back axle . There are drum inner faces for the front wheels.

The brakes are basically represented by the solid wheels. 

I'm keeping the solid inner on the back of the wheel and removing it from the front part (on the left there) 

Drill, cut and file and you get this.... 

Now painted matt white for visibility. 

Because that inner collar now needs to be marked and drilled, in accordance with this piece of precision technology, 

 

My first efforts used a doubled 8pt asterisk, giving 16 spokes on the outside. 

It can be seen on the first one..... 

I've concluded that more are required, and looking at the Heller moulding they're in agreement. 

So the drawing above is a double 10pt asterisk, giving 20 spokes. 

I think it'll look better. 

So 20 small holes are to be drilled in that collar I've painted white. 

😕

I'll get back to you.......... 

[rob Lyttle]

Right O. 

20 holes, nothing to it! 😜

That's near enough. I'm going for a lie down. The next bit is neat though 

 

To be continued....... 👍

[rob Lyttle]

OK... Phase 2.

What's needed for this part is just 5 lengths of wire. I'm using 0.4mm guage brass, as I couldn't get the Silver coated variety. I may try a quick blast of silver spraycan on one for a test or just a wipe with a little brush. Right now I'm enjoying the look of the brass. 

Each wire is bent over a 2mm bit, or similar, to a hairpin shape and it helps if the legs are not equal. 

Pick the first pair of holes and poke the legs of the first wire through, across the wheel, and into the opposite pair of holes. With the legs unequal they can be done one at a time. 

 

Behold, 4 spokes done already....!! 

Guess what is next......? 

 

Couple more gets you to here.... 

Tug them into position and pull a bit of straightness if required on a wire, and then here's the trick..... 

With something like a needle file handle positioned on the centre, wheel still upside down, push down. 

 

And you get one of these.... 

 

The extra length of the legs allows the wires to move in their holes. 

My first efforts were made with individual wires pushed through, and the problem was that, when pushed down in the V shape, each one could rotate and roll around out of position. 

Because they are now in pairs, they can't roll about..... They hold each other. 

Problem solved! 😎

 

Before the wiring, I applied a strip of my Ali foil around the rim for metal, but that's just me. I'm sure there are plenty of paint solutions for this. 

 

That's the outer part of the wheel /tyre assembly DONE 👍🎈🎈

The inner parts are next up 

[rob Lyttle]

Phase 3. The wheel inners 

This is the state of evolution of my method for the inner parts of the wheels. 

I've made one of these.... 

It's a piece of Ali tube at about 30mm diameter cut off something in the shed. 

Actually this is the 3rd one and it's marked and slotted in accordance with the paper plan shown earlier. 

20 cuts with a junior hacksaw, and it fits reasonably snuggly in a hole in a block of 3X3.

Attach the end of the wire and trap it between the tube and the wood, and start making a dreamcatcher..... 

Because of the geometry the slots are in 10 pairs, so do 1 pair at a time. 

 

Super precision is not required but keep it fairly tight and tidy. 

All done! 

Now, the hole drilled in the block has a pilot hole in the middle of the base because of the type of bit I used. 

Perfect for a cocktail stick 

 

And the piece of pie dish Ali is at a height of about 3mm below the wires. This supports the brass tube hub piece just where it's needed. 

 

Flux is applied and the hub is soldered 

 

Perfect centering is NOT required here. 

"Something like"is good enough and as upright as possible. 

When it's taken off the loom it's like this, 

 

The wheel inner part needs to have the plastic hub boss removed and the hole enlarged to take the brass tube, because the 3mm of tube sticking out of the back of the dreamcatcher spoke assembly is fitted into the hole. 

 

That's what centres the assembly! 

All the loops and loose ends of wire are tucked away inside the tyre shape. Here's the back of the 1st one.... 

I had the notion earlier that the brake drum outer face had cooling holes. Maybe it was a hark back to the Alfa build. Anyway the back face in the hub represents the brake drum now, and for better or worse I have drilled as you can see. 

So I'll do the same with this 2nd wheel before proceeding. 

 

Congratulations if you have made it to the end here, by the way ‼️😉

[The Spadgent]

Now I know. Brilliant wheel creation. They’re looking spot on. Can’t wait to see them in place. 🤩

 

Johnny

[rob Lyttle]

Much has been written on this side of the BM forum, Johnny, about the wiring of spoked wheels. 

Unfortunately, it mostly relates to kits that have separate tyres and wheels. And a good deal of it requires access to a fully equipped metalworking facility! 

These ancient cars from the 50s are made more simply and need to be made over in a different way. 

It's a challenge 🤔🥳

Now you're getting into brass, how's your soldering ⁉️

[The Spadgent]

5 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

Now you're getting into brass, how's your soldering

It used to be ok but that was on old school  Electronics when I was a kid. I might leave it to the experts for now. 🙃

[rob Lyttle]

There's no doubt that my spoked wheels look...... sturdy ⁉️

0.4mm diameter wire scaled up indicates a spoke of nearly 10mm cross section. Which is quite a hefty bar of steel! 

So I decided to try an experiment, doing the same procedure with 0.2mm wire and see what I get. 

The structure is more flimsy to handle but this won't be an issue when it is assembled. 

It does look a bit more refined than the original, 

I think I'll conduct another experiment and rewire the front part with the 0.2mm silver wire to match. So I can see a comparison. 

0.2mm scales up at half the size, around 5mm gauge spokes. 

Don't want to get over obsessive about it, just as long as it looks something like! 

Gotta be worth a try at this stage 🕵️‍

[rob Lyttle]

As proposed, I have pulled the spoke wires out of the wheel outside part, done previously in 0.4mm brass. 

And I've redone it with the 0.2mm silver coated wire. 

I can't say it was an easy process, this stuff is a lot more bendy and more of an eyestrain. 

But the same method is followed, and I think it looks better. 

This is it sitting on top of the inner part, as done at the end of the previous post, 

 

Like I said, I'm not in the spoke-counting zone here. Something that looks the part is my aim. 

Here's the two side by side.. 

The lowe one in 0.4mm is looking quite chunky now, in comparison. 

I'm tending towards redoing that one in the finer wire to match if I can cut it open. It's just glued around the tyre circumstance. And a bit of drilling too because this first one is still based on the double eight point asterisk pattern, being my first efforts with the process before I decided to increase to a double ten pattern. 

🥳

[Spiny]

Got to agree that the 0.2mm looks a lot better (possibly not what you want to hear if it means revisiting the 0.4mm )