Tanker T2-SE-A2, USS Pamanset (AO-85) Escambia Class | Print 3D & Scratch | 1/200

[Iceman 29]

I plan to build this 160 meters vessel, which had a very long life, from 1943 to 2010, because it is the last T2 tanker to be sent to the demolition yard during the Obama era.

 

 

A little history to soak up this ship:

 

 

The SS Mission Santa Ynez was a type T2-SE-A2 tanker built for the United States Maritime Commission during World War II. 

The Mission's thirty-one tankers were built by The Marinship Corporation.

The design was an adaptation of the T2-SE-A1 and boasted a more powerful propulsion unit, a power plant - 10,000 horsepower (hp) versus 6,000 hp.

After the war, it was acquired by the U.S. Navy as the USS Mission Santa Ynez (AO-134). Later, the tanker was transferred to the military shipping service as USNS Mission Santa Ynez (T-AO-134). It is a Mission Buenaventura class tanker, named after the Mission Santa Inés located in Solvang, California.

 

The Mission Santa Ynez, the last existing T-2 tanker, was stored in Suisun Bay as part of the Suisun Bay Reserve Fleet from 1975 until April 2010, when a lawsuit forced the U.S. Maritime Administration (MARAD) to withdraw it. 

The tanker was transported to a ship recycling facility in Brownsville, Texas, via the Panama Canal in May 2010 for scrapping by Esco Marine. 

 

Life of this ships:

 

The Santa Ynez Mission was established on September 9, 1943 under a Maritime Commission contract by the Marinship Corporation, Sausalito, California; she was launched on December 19, 1943, sponsored by Mrs. Ralph K. Davies and delivered on March 13, 1944. Chartered to Pacific Tankers, Inc. for operations, it spent the remainder of the war transporting fuel to our forces overseas. She remained in this capacity until March 28, 1946, when she was returned to the Maritime Commission and placed in reserve in the Maritime Reserve Fleet at James River, Virginia.

 

Acquired by the Navy on October 22, 1947, she was commissioned in the Naval Transport Service as Mission Santa Ynez (AO-134). Taken over by the newly created Military Naval Transport Service on October 1, 1949, it was renamed USNS Mission Santa Ynez (T-AO-134). Chartered to Mathiasens Tanker Industries, Inc. for operations, she joined the reserve fleet of the Suisun Bay Maritime Administration on March 6, 1975. She is the last existing T-2 tanker. 

 

Towed from the Suisun Bay Marine Reserve Fleet in California on March 31, 2010, she was headed for dismantling in Texas via the Panama Canal.

During his active service, he was awarded the National Defence Service Medal (twice), the Korea Service Medal, the United Nations Service Medal and the Republic of Korea War Service Medal (retroactively).

For this model, which will probably be 1/200, I start from nothing, except the high definition shots made available by this site, I gave a little something to the Webmaster, but we are not obliged. It is a remarkable site with many plans including French ships, a gold mine. The "Golo" French ship would interest me for later also.

 

https://www.themodelshipwright.com/high-resolution-ship-plans/cargo-vessels/

 

The Santa Ynez Mission plans are very complete:

 

 

 

Photo source: http://www.memorieshop.com/Oilers/Santa-Ynez/Santa Ynez.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The hull will be printed in resin by sections and half hull for some, it's big the 1/200.

 

So I started to work on the 3D modeling of the front part to create 3D printing files. I'm starting in modeling. The modeling of the bow is particularly delicate, I am not too alaise with this tool which is the program Fusion 360. But after trial and error, I arrived at a few things that suits me, but that there will be some small errors to correct.

 

I started by installing the necessary plans as a layer on a 3D work plan.

 

I am aware of some deformations probably due to the digitization of the plans by the Americans, nothing serious, but the curves of the views are not always connected, so it is necessary to take this into account.

 

Put the 3 planes as layers:

 

 

I started by creating the sketches of the first 8 couples by following the front view while stopping at the main bridge:

 

 

 

Then I continued on upwards, the forecastle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then I created the block shapes with a very powerful function in the program, it's very impressive. And I created a mirror shape for starboard, the two sides being identical, so there's no need to design it. Moreover, it will be printed in half hull, then glued together.

 

 

 

 

Drilling of the port hawser, it was necessary to deduce the exact angles of the hawser in the 2 planes thanks to two new layers from other planks. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've come to that point today. There are some modifications made so that everything "holds the road..."

 

Then I'll do a small-scale print test after I make this part hollow because there's too much material. Flow holes for the resin will also be made so that it will drain out of the hull during printing.

 

 

 

 

[Iceman 29]

The supply tanker USS Pamanset AO-85 and the aircraft carrier USS Ticonderoga CV-14 in the storm in January 1945. Dazzle camouflage. 

 

 

 

 

it'll be highly compartmentalized, each block is independently dug independently.

 

That's going to form a rigid structure like a real boat inside. It's still to be tested.

 

I took a block out here and I dug it out, but I dug it all the way to the bottom. There will be a hole placed where the resin will be drained off by gravity when it's printed.

I think it's going to be very rigid.

 

 

 

I found a 3D file free anchor here very well made and detailed that fits, bravo and thanks to the designer.

 

https://www.renderhub.com/dmitriykotliar/anchor#

 

 

I scaled it to the required scale and angles for the penis and legs to fit the hull plating and hawser sleeve. They'll be printed apart from the hull, of course.

I still have the flanges to place on the hawse pipes and some details on the deck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Installation of the hawser collar and sleeve.

 

Emptying the compartments, finally I did it transversally, it's more judicious.

First impression of the two half hulls at 1/400 for a test, it's in progress, it takes 5 hours.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Iceman 29]

Some news of my 1/400 test, half the size I had planned. It's not perfect in terms of printing, but the result is encouraging.

 

I have a lamination effect because I didn't put enough reinforcements, it also deformed the outer hull at the reinforcements level. It's at the takeoff from the bottom of the tank that it happens. So I have to reinforce all this or do something else... 

 

As much as I'd like to keep a little deformation at the torques, it's more realistic, a steel ship's hull is not smooth.

I still have a bit of putty to put on the bow line.

 

The bulwark came out clean, at 1/400 it's a sheet of cigarette paper, I damaged it when I sanded the putty which allowed me to make up for the defects, it's glued again. It should be better at 1/200. because the thickness of the bulwark is designed for this scale.

 

I left the anchors for printing.

 

I put some rough filler and sand the hull, this bow is only a test.

 

So I could also test the Lifecolor US Navy light gray 5L ( UA620 ) paint. 

 

https://www.shipcamouflage.com/ships2_3_43_measure23.htm

 

5L, it's more of a grey with a hint of green, it seems.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[longshanks]

Interesting subject and approach

 

 

Kev

[beefy66]

Looking good so far I will pull up a seat  

 

beefy

[Iceman 29]

Thanks Kev, Beefy and some others. Beer's on the house!

 

I've been working on this project alternately.

 

I released the second part, which I made lighter, it's much better and very robust.

The two half hulls of the bow were easily assembled.

 

The printing of the second portside section is in progress. We're coming up with some simple sections, it's going to get a bit complicated in the middle castle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Both anchors are printed. That's not bad.

 

 

It fits perfectly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The anchors are well reproduced.  It's great because the shank is at the right angle, no need to tinker, it fits together perfectly.

The impression of the port side half part No. 1 is finished, it's not bad.

 

We can see that the assembly of the hull sections is not going to be a problem.

 

I proceed to the assembly with the glue cyano 21, the corners one by one, checking the alignment. I put the whole thing on a flat desk surface, very flat, the faces being perfectly flat, especially the one in contact with the printer plate. Then I put a little cyano all around with my cannula, it penetrates well. Then a good jet accelerates it, the cyano is used as a coating.  We can sand immediately.

 

Nothing is stuck here yet.

 

 

 

 

Here is the first section glued to the front part. 

 

Sanding, repair of the deck of the bow section with putty and of the forecastle bulkhead with Evergreen 0.5mm plastic card.

 

 

 

 

Creation of section n°2. I provided a housing to insert a 4mm nut to fix the ship to its support. Don't forget to put it in its housing before gluing the two half-hulls together...  😬

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Printing in progress.  

 

 

 

 

[PF Naughton]

Hi,

This is a fascinating build to watch.  Can't wait to see more.

 

Pat

[Iceman 29]

Me too! 😂 thanks Pat!

 

It's growing, I'm at a third of the length of the ship, just water regularly with resin and isopropanol alcohol ...     😊

 

 

 

The block I'm going to start will go from couple 65 to 59, and vertically I'm going to stop at the first bridge of the middle castle. The rest of the castle will be done later by floor to detail it well +PE+ the 4 x 20 mm PE flak guns, I have to look at which model for these.

 

 

 

Ordered generic US Navy watertight doors from Toms modelworks :

 

http://www.tomsmodelworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_38&products_id=190

 

 

I spent an afternoon designing the middle section of the castle, not as simple as it looks.

 

The bridges of the castle follow the camber of the main bridge, which gives the characteristic look of ships of that time.

 

I stopped at the first bridge. I'll stack the bridges later, printing them one by one to add details, PE etc. I have the 4 flak platforms with the 20mm guns to create on the upper deck. 

 

The two half hulls are not fully symmetrical. The central walkway is offset to port because of the masts.

 

It will take about 11 hours of printing for this half-block.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I tried a tilted impression to try to erase some small defects on the bulkhead, the recommended tilt is around 40°, but because of the size of the element I put less. It didn't change much.

 

 

I redid the bulkhead that was problematic with the Evergreen card. Just like the forecastle.

 

 

 

 

37 cm of hull length, 43 remain to be created and printed.  

 

 

This afternoon I tackled the hatch of the small forward hold, which was to be used for cargo, storage of hoses and various equipments.

All I could find were these three pictures of that hatch. And I just got its size from the top view of one of the plans.

 

Here during construction, the forecastle hasn't been mounted yet.

 

 

At the Marad anchorage in 2006.

 

 

 

It's finished, I'll just have to add a PE hatch in the starboard aft corner. A round hatch that might allow you to take hoses out of the hold without having to open the large hatch.

 

Printing tonight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Iceman 29]

The heavy lifting continues. Box n°4 is printed and glued. I make a mistake on the printing by forgetting to support the cross braces when printing, which I had done on the other boxes. 
 

16 hours of printing for the two halves.

 

The penalty is immediate, a bit of deformation at the cross braces, it was not serious, but the localized deformation of the hull is more annoying...  

The punishment was more than an hour of sanding... 

I changed my putty, I couldn't stand Tamya's putty anymore. You have to put tons of putty, it dries too fast, there's an unacceptable shrinkage, you have to put more... etc, you never finish.

 

I switched to bi-component bodywork putty, which I know well, there's no photo... And it doesn't cost anything compared to the putty.

 

 

The now traditional picture of advancement:

You can see that the printer is starting to look rather small, we're at 47 cm of shell in ten pieces.

I'll have to weigh it to know the resin cost.

 

 

But what about the hatch cover, will you tell me?

Well it's printed pretty good, the details are there in the cleats.

I have a small defect on the flat of the panel, nothing serious. But the putty wasn't much help. Hence my change of putty. I hesitate to reprint it, it's sometimes easier. Sanding on the acrylic paint is not really good, I'll see. I'm waiting for it to dry perfectly.

 

 

Once painted: US Navy Haze Gray 5H Lifecolors.

 

 

[Terry1954]

A fascinating approach to maritime subjects. Having watched a similar aircraft related thread which is producing amazing results, it's clear this approach can be used in many different applications. We can all buy ready made components now from the likes of Shapeways etc, but clearly more of us might be able to take the DIY approach shown here - I hasten to add with the right technical skill set and much determination!

 

A great thread to follow.

 

Terry

[Courageous]

On 7/12/2020 at 2:00 PM, Terry1954 said:

more of us might be able to take the DIY approach

Leave that thought there Terry, you don't have enough years left...

To the build, fascinating stuff and will be interesting to see this unfold.

 

Stuart

[Iceman 29]

Some news.

 

A new section of print, No. 5, is 9+10, a total of 14 elements will make up the hull. 

 

For the moment it weighs 680 grams, for a resin cost of 25 euros in bulk.

 

I removed the cross braces that deformed the parts when printed, it's much better.

 

 

 

 

I'm creating stage 6, I'm attacking the rear castle, we're coming to the end!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Under the watchful eye of an American cat... Of course! (Maine Coon)

 

We can compare the size on the same scale (of boats) with the Hornet.

 

 

 

 

I found a T2 propeller plan, it's not complete, but I should be able to get something credible out of it.

 

 

[Courageous]

Glad you know what you're doing 'cos I wouldn't have a clue. Great stuff.

 

Stuart

[Iceman 29]

Sometimes I have a doubt... 😊

 

I glued the last two pieces together before gluing the stern. I had a printing problem on the first one, a debris in the resin. Nothing serious, but I'll have to think about filtering it from time to time.

 

I had also made a tiny flatness error on the rear castle bulkhead along the planking, hard to detect on the software. The printer can't be mistaken...

 

It will be rectified with putty when gluing the stern, final section. Errors have been corrected on port side, so I also digitally drilled the portholes on port side, and manually on TD, an oversight, it's the age.

 

I almost scrapped the starboard one and reprinted it and then I changed my mind, it was repairable.  

 

 

 

 

Putty repair of the hole due to debris in the tank, we won't see anything.

 

Starboard: We see the defect on the top left, easily repaired after gluing the next element.

 

 

Port: It came out flawlessly, the construction method is now perfected. I simply removed most of the reinforcements inside and increased the hull thickness slightly.

 

 

Gluing of section n°6 and before last. I overload with cyano that I dry with the activator, it becomes very hard immediately, I use it as a putty, I just have to sand to remove the excess to obtain an acceptable surface state for painting.    

 

 

This is the last time you'll see the hull exposed in this posture...

 

She'll soon be able to reach her temporary support.

 

 

 

I received the PE portholes and raillings:

 

[FlyingSpanner]

Fascinating to see your methodology, and to see the ship progress.

 

Thank you for sharing it with us.

 

PS, beautiful cat!

[beefy66]

I thought you had missed a zero from the cost of your resin 50 euros is a good deal of model for your efforts interesting to see this come together  

 

Stay Safe

beefy

[Chewbacca]

This really shows what is possible with the latest generation of 3D printers.  It's a very different approach to what many might deem as traditional modelling but maybe this is the way to go for those of us utterly bored with yet another manufacturer offering us a new tool Bismarck when there are so many really interesting ships out there that have never appeared in miniature!  I am very impressed.

[Courageous]

14 hours ago, Chewbacca said:

maybe this is the way to go

A nice thought. Although the printers are getting better, they still need the 3D files to print and that is a skill in its own right if you're doing it yourself, otherwise you will need to rely others to produce the file.

 

Stuart

[Iceman 29]

Thank you all for your encouragement.

 

Indeed, it is a new approach to "Do It Yourself."

 

Chewbacca got it right. My goal is to mount boats that are not sold commercially, including civilian ships or particular military vessels, never seen on the market. The Market is not very open to this type to this type of worthwhile ships. .

 

There are a lot of free, usable civilian ship plans on the internet or in the national archives. So why deprive ourselves?

 

The drawing work is far from being finished on the stern, but I've made progress despite the difficulties I've encountered, I've been through a lot, I don't always have the level required for certain complex shapes of the arch, but I'm holding on... to the oars.  

 

 

 

I still have the bulwark to continue designing which houses the main deck accommodation, the rudder and the propeller. And seeing a few small flaws here and there is nothing too bad.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's a No. 2 : rudder with pintles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Chewbacca]

19 hours ago, Courageous said:

A nice thought. Although the printers are getting better, they still need the 3D files to print and that is a skill in its own right if you're doing it yourself, otherwise you will need to rely others to produce the file.

 

Stuart

A very valid point Stuart.  Fortunately I found when I first tried playing with 3D CAD that I sort of got to grips with it quite quickly but the printer I was using wasn't up to the task.  Furthermore, my son graduated from  university last year with an engineering degree where he excelled in CAD so is my resident expert.  I've got him lined up to design the frames for a 1/350 HM Airship No 1 which will be my first foray into proper 3D printing when I've saved the pennies to buy a decent resin set up.  There's also a member in one of my local model clubs who does a lot of this and is very good so another expert from whom i can seek advice.

[Courageous]

1 hour ago, Chewbacca said:

my son

Ah, sons, mine loves computers and has a 3D printer but he constantly talks of an upgrade but at the moment he doesn't have time to learn CAD

 

Stuart

[Iceman 29]

Rudder's done. Not too much trouble.

 

It will be printed separately because it will be movable on the model. The stern and rudder are ready to be printed.

 

I'll start 3-D drawing of the propeller tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Iceman 29]

I took care of the propeller yesterday , a new exercise that can be a bit daunting.

I tried a tutorial found on youtube for Fusion 360, but I didn't like the result, a tutorial rather suitable for a schematic outboard propeller, the method was not suitable for a large ship propeller, much more complex in terms of shapes, the profile of the blade.

 

 

 

So I racked my brain using a method I know as an aeromodeller, I created a blade like an airplane wing, it's very similar to it, with ribs, then I twisted it once the structure was finished, then filled it with one of the very powerful functions of the program, delicate to use when the shapes are complex. Sometimes you have to do it over and over again.

First of all some captures made last night after the rudder was finished;

 

 

 

 

 

I prepared the impression of two rudders, I knew that there would be a long hole to make for the rudder needle, easy to miss, this axis will be made of piano wire, so it will be mobile. 

 

 

Then I started drawing the propeller with a second method mixing youtube tuto and the personal to give a profile to the blade, but it was not conclusive, no finesse at the end of the blade forms, except by tinkering for hours, I gave up, it was not the right method, we wipe the slate and start again ...

 

 

 

 

The result, not convincing to me. Go to the trash can! 

 

 

Then I used a radically different method. The idea worked well

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The holes are used to measure the vertical play of the propeller shaft in dry dock, there are plugs that have to be removed, a measuring tool like a calliper is inserted in them, and compared with the measurements made at new and at previous technical stops, a metal plate is in the tool box, it is punched with the different measurements each time. These measurements allow to know the condition of the shaft line bearings, it is done under supervision of the classification society, like Bureau Veritas or others.

 

 

The printed rudder.

 

 

It was also a test for a new resin (Elegoo), because it's difficult to get grey resin at Anycubic and the prices go crazy, I didn't see the difference, except that it smells even less... The price is very competitive compared to Anycubic.  So I'm going to adopt it.

 

https://www.amazon.fr/ELEGOO-Résine-Impression-Liquides-Photopolymère/dp/B07Z96X1YX/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_fr_FR=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=ELEGOO+LCD+UV+405nm+Résine+Fast&qid=1595184342&s=industrial&sr=1-4

 

 

Starboard stern print. I can see the end of the hull adventure ..

 

Port side here in preparation.

 

 

Raw casting, before a thorough sanding like the other elements, with water, 320 then 1000. This new resin has a different aspect from the other one, a rougher hair but as it will be sanded it doesn't matter.

 

 

 

 

1/4 hour sanding. This Elegoo resin is more suitable for sanding, really pleasant.

 

 

I'm waiting until the half stern printout is done, 10 hours, to print the propeller.

 

 

 

[Andreas.R]

Wow! Great design, 3D is learning by doing .

Thank you for sharing it with us.

[Andreas.R]

On 7/17/2020 at 8:28 AM, Chewbacca said:

This really shows what is possible with the latest generation of 3D printers.  It's a very different approach to what many might deem as traditional modelling but maybe this is the way to go for those of us utterly bored with yet another manufacturer offering us a new tool Bismarck when there are so many really interesting ships out there that have never appeared in miniature!  I am very impressed.

You are right! There are only a few interesting subjects from the main manufacturers like the MN Oiler "La Seine" which is very good model in 1/400 scale and the Hasegawa 

Soya and Hikawa Maru in 1/350. 

There is also a tanker from Revell and a cargo ship, but they were made 60 years ago, and are more toys then models.

Regards 

Andreas