Jump to content

The one that got away Bf 109 Von Werra Airfix


Recommended Posts

Ok, pre shade lifecolor 33 black, Pmask canopy mask, a must for a 109 for me and some tamiya rattle can 24 Luftwaffe dunkelgrün. I have masked off the hellblau areas. Let this set over night tho it’s dry already. Give me time to decide green or black for spinner etc...

50151961587_aae6c5597e_b.jpg

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Valkyrie said:

Give me time to decide green or black for spinner etc...

 

You know you want black!!!

 

Have fun! 

JR

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve undercoated black and I do like the look, plus if it’s accurate...but, the box art is the black green and that also looks tasty...

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The choice is yours, but the spinner is the reflection of the Staffel logo, which is black and white.

Choice is a terrible thing!

 

JR

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, jean said:

The choice is yours, but the spinner is the reflection of the Staffel logo, which is black and white.

Choice is a terrible thing!

 

JR

 

Well as I’m building the 1/72 and 1/48 side by side I guess I could have one of each...but now I’m looking to paint the 1/72 I do like Priller’s 109 included in that boxing...Choice as you say....

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Getting to the stage where things move quickly. Camouflage masks don’t fit either of the 1/72 or 1/48 versions so home made it is. I’m using tamiya rattle can AS-29 for RLM 02, AS-16 can also be used as a faded version...to my eye anyway and I’ve sweated   And researched for years on 02 and think life colour 02 is the best to my taste and as-29 closest to that..

50154688466_58bc37141a_b.jpg

RLM 02 on, really silky smooth finish...until you drops parts on the garage floor...bit of white creep on the spinner and now a finger print 😡 

Was just a cheap Aldi white spray can and doesn’t have the quick drying time that the excellent tamiya rattle cans do...

50154862156_ef4022f8e6_b.jpg

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do like taking the tape off. Here we are with the top camouflage of RLM 02 (Tamiya AS-29) and RLM 71 Dunkelgrün Luftwaffe dark green (Tamiya AS-24). Really love these paints. Next job will be masking off for the RLM 65 Hellblau, Luftwaffe light blue and I will use another Tamiya rattle can in the shape of AS-5 which is Luftwaffe blue in their range.

You might see the 1/72 in the corner which was going to be a smaller scale of the same a/c but as I have already done one in that scale and scheme and we are in the midst of the BoB there’s plenty 109 schemes to mix it up a bit..

50154445113_2a758d85f3_b.jpg

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m thinking I should probably have painted the RLM 65 first? Il need to be super accurate with my masking.

 

I also seem to have trouble getting nice clean smooth canopy painting, always goes crumbly or lumpy, this appears to be my best, yet the rear section has come off. I used humbrol clear fix for that part, other two parts were micro kristal klear...

 

What is the best product for sticking clear parts?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

48 minutes ago, Valkyrie said:

 

 

What is the best product for sticking clear parts?

Not sure if best, but I’m using white glue (PVA, ”carpenter glue”, etc), with tiny drops of CA at strategic locations. I first apply the PVA along the rim (the stuff dries quite clear). The CA is either applied on a spot or two before I press home the canopy, or afterwards if the shape allows it.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

As I have said before, Clearfix works quite well but you have to be careful how you apply it as mine is rather thick . As I have said a few times before, I find that it attacks acrylic paint and decs, though that might depend on the type of paint/varnish you are using - you therefore need to put it on sparingly, or apply a coat on non acrylic varnish first. I have tried the Rocket CA and it does seem that it does not "fog" canopies. However, it may not be as strong as some other CA, as I used it on the triangular waist windows on my Wellington , and one fell out after a few hours. Krystal Kleer also works but takes a long time to "grab" and set so you have to ensure that the cabopy or whatever is left alone and not accidentally moved.

 

Pete

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks @Peter B @Torbjorn @Greg Law for the canopy tips. I’ll do some experimenting on re-attaching this canopy and the 1/72 so thanks!

@Greg Law I think I’m just out of practice as I think I’d usually have done the RLM 65 first...it was a pain to mask over the and spray over the darker colours...

Here is the RML 65 on, super smooth satin finish 

50159894807_0a41a72635_b.jpg

Still a bit wet in the photo....then with the tape off...

50159894787_a091457ef1_b.jpg

 

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m going to try my first spray on gloss coat, rather than brush it on, if I’m brave enough that it, should maybe use the smaller one as a tester...

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Valkyrie said:

I’m going to try my first spray on gloss coat, rather than brush it on, if I’m brave enough that it, should maybe use the smaller one as a tester...

 

 

Good luck.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m so pleased with my canopy masking and finish, best I’ve managed so far. It was a PMask from Poland. Ready for the gloss now with wing tips in white done.

50166738258_994a0832f0_b.jpg

 

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wasn’t brave enough to attempt a gloss rattle can on this one so I have brush painted a coat of Humbrol Gloss Cote. I used to skip varnishing but realise it helps with decal setting, panel line suction and paint protection.

Do I gloss the canopy glass or just the framing?

Next time we see it there should be decals on it!

50169391091_400fb8e16c_b.jpg

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have read somewhere on BM that using varnish on the canopy did not help the transparencies at all.

I would keep the clear varnish for the framing only. Or use clear over everything!

 

JR

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/27/2020 at 8:42 AM, Valkyrie said:

What is the best product for sticking clear parts?

PVA. No doubt in my mind. No chance of clouding the one and only canopy and quite reversible.

 

Looks really great.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...