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Mercedes 300SL Gullwing 1/24 Tamiya with photoetched detail up set from Hobby Design


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There are no fixtures at the forward ends of the lateral rail. The rail itself translates from a round to flat cross section with a hole drilled through it and is fastened to the side wall with a small Phillips screw approximately 15mm to the rear of the door opening, The fixtures you have made are works of art but reproduce too prominently in 1:24. Perhaps better to fasten short lengths of wire at right angles to the lateral rail to approximate the several standoffs. 

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21 hours ago, ejboyd5 said:

There are no fixtures at the forward ends of the lateral rail. The rail itself translates from a round to flat cross section with a hole drilled through it and is fastened to the side wall with a small Phillips screw approximately 15mm to the rear of the door opening, The fixtures you have made are works of art but reproduce too prominently in 1:24. Perhaps better to fasten short lengths of wire at right angles to the lateral rail to approximate the several standoffs. 

Of course, you're right Edward, but it's not that simple !

If it were that easy, I'd have done it already !

 

So, I'm mulling things 🤔

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Evening guys :)

 

I've been out for a while and have not made any significant progress, because I was mulling things in order to solve my problem:

"how to fabricate fixtures for the luggage rail, that would be as close as possible than the real at 1:24 scale, while being strong enough to accept to be threaded upon a big brute 0.5 mm piano wire ?"

 

The use of metal was impossible at my skill level, the use of thin wire to simulate the fixtures, as suggested @ejboyd5 , also failed ....So  what ?

 

I've so redrawn several times my fixtures with fusion and finally made 2 (amongst 5) 3D prints that seem to be OK :

 

- The first with a 0.7 mm wide "eye", 1 mm outer diameter and 0.6 inner diameter

- The second with a. 0.5 mm wide "eye", same diameters

 

Hereunder is the result:

 

On the left "collar", I've threaded, on the left 3 0.5 mm fixtures and on the center 3 previous  1.2/0.6 fixtures

On the right "collar", there is 15 0.7 mm fixtures

As you could see, the 0.5mm ones seem to be pretty usable at this scale to simulate the fixtures, hopefully....

 

50727590272_a43333de70_b.jpg

 

Please, feel free to criticize and comment this solution, and thanks for watching :)

 

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On 12/16/2020 at 10:11 PM, Toftdale said:

Your level of patience for the smallest of details is mind-blowing 🤯 

 

Patience is an essential virtue for serious modelers 😉

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Good evening chaps :)

 

Brick after brick, the wall's raising  !

 

I've achieved to place the luggage rails, fixed with 3 tiny micro- fixtures.

The left one isn't threaded enough in its hole because I've released  the pressure too soon, and now the CA gel is dry, it's impossible to rectify the placement without ruining the whole assembly.

So I'll have to leave with that issue .

But at a layman's naked eye, it looks rather pretty if not good :)

 

Hereunder some pictures to show you where I'm at the moment :

 

50741027562_9ec561cf35_h.jpg

 

50741027512_4d520c9074_b.jpg   50741027437_2cd0eef20c_b.jpg

 

50740187813_056fe6aaaf_b.jpg   50740922991_e4db991bc7_b.jpg

 

It remains to fabricate the three-parts straps with their buckles and prongs and to fix them in place with the cases, and then the tub is finished....

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching :)

 

 

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That really is looking super good, looking forward to seeing it all come together now. 
 

Nick

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Outstanding attention to detail and workmanship.

I don't think your rail mounting that is not completely in place will notice when everything is together

 

  Stay safe        Roger

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Although there is some discussion about the color of a 300 SL's belly pans depending on the age of the car, most production vehicles were finished in a light brown color on both sides of the pans. I'm attaching a link showing a restored Gull Wing sporting the correct colored pans.  https://www.brabus.com/en/classics/w-198-gullwing.html

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1 hour ago, ejboyd5 said:

Although there is some discussion about the color of a 300 SL's belly pans depending on the age of the car, most production vehicles were finished in a light brown color on both sides of the pans. I'm attaching a link showing a restored Gull Wing sporting the correct colored pans.  https://www.brabus.com/en/classics/w-198-gullwing.html

I don't understand what you mean by "belly pans", sorry for my poor English ...

 

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Following your build with great interest, thank you for posting. Wonderful detail! I have one to do too and your build is very inspiring. Taking lots of notes. Great input from ejboyd5 too - thank you!

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Morning chaps :)

Oh ! I think I've understood "belly pans": "metal underbody", isn't it ?

 

And yes, they will be painted light brown as on the Brabus link's photo....

Actually the underbody is only primed with Alclad Grey primer and microfiller ...

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Good evening gentlemen

 

I'm still thinking about the way to scratch buckles and prongs for a 1 mm wide leather luggage strap.

 

Meanwhile, I've already scratched the straps:

 

They are made of 2 Tamiya masking tape straps glued face to face over a sandwiched cooking aluminum foil (I took inspiration from a plane modeler found on Youtube !)

Doing so, I got  a flexible but tough stuff from which I cut several 1 mm width straps (remember, @ejboyd5 told us that the leather luggage straps are 24 mm wide, so exactly 1 mm at 1:24 scale)

Those straps will be painted with tan Tamiya paint to imitate natural leather.

The holes where will be threaded the prongs on the straps have been made with a needle, spaced from each other by 1 mm.

 

50748337991_6edc1e3f87_b.jpg

 

Let's wait and see later on the result while the whole set is assembled :)

 

 

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Looking at those straps, it's hard to believe that they're only 1mm wide. I think for me, cutting something like that would generate about 1mm just in tolerance. Very nice.

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@CrazyCrank beautiful build. 

 

Regarding the buckles for your straps, I know you said you were going to scratch something, which made me wonder if buckles like those used for soldiers webbing would work?  I looked and Hannants has these from Aber in stock:

 

50749912626_fe15c189ee_z.jpg%5B

 

They are 1/35 scale and pretty nice, the etch isn't too thin to be visually convincing.  If need be, you could cut the ends off of the belts and repurpose them for your needs (or maybe use the full belt?), or, the other buckles offer plenty of options.  They don't provide dimensions, but I recall they might be about the size you are looking for (1mm).  If you run into trouble with the tape straps, you might consider using lead foil, the type found on wine bottles.  I've used it before on 1/35 soldiers for belts/straps etc.  It's nice to work with because it will hold a shape, and you can drill through it to make clean holes. 

 

Looking forward to your next update - 

 

Cheers

Nick

 

 

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10 hours ago, Spiny said:

Looking at those straps, it's hard to believe that they're only 1mm wide. I think for me, cutting something like that would generate about 1mm just in tolerance. Very nice.

And you're right not believing that ! In fact, they are 1.5 mm wide. I've measured my "1 mm"  guesstimating !

Then, comparing a real 1 mm strap with a 1.5 mm, it appears that the 1 mm one is frankly very fragile and unusable for my purpose.

Furthermore, the real width of the luggage straps on actual (refurbished)  MB300 SL is frankly higher than 24 mm, so, it's an acceptable compromise :)

 

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1 hour ago, Stickframe said:

@CrazyCrank beautiful build. 

 

Regarding the buckles for your straps, I know you said you were going to scratch something, which made me wonder if buckles like those used for soldiers webbing would work?  I looked and Hannants has these from Aber in stock:

 

50749912626_fe15c189ee_z.jpg%5B

 

They are 1/35 scale and pretty nice, the etch isn't too thin to be visually convincing.  If need be, you could cut the ends off of the belts and repurpose them for your needs (or maybe use the full belt?), or, the other buckles offer plenty of options.  They don't provide dimensions, but I recall they might be about the size you are looking for (1mm).  If you run into trouble with the tape straps, you might consider using lead foil, the type found on wine bottles.  I've used it before on 1/35 soldiers for belts/straps etc.  It's nice to work with because it will hold a shape, and you can drill through it to make clean holes. 

 

Looking forward to your next update - 

 

Cheers

Nick

 

 

Thank you so much for he tips, Nick :)

 

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On 12/23/2020 at 2:17 AM, CrazyCrank said:

And you're right not believing that ! In fact, they are 1.5 mm wide. I've measured my "1 mm"  guesstimating !

Then, comparing a real 1 mm strap with a 1.5 mm, it appears that the 1 mm one is frankly very fragile and unusable for my purpose.

Furthermore, the real width of the luggage straps on actual (refurbished)  MB300 SL is frankly higher than 24 mm, so, it's an acceptable compromise :)

 

Original luggage straps are 25mm wide. I can not speak to the width of reproduced or refurbished straps.

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3 hours ago, ejboyd5 said:

Original luggage straps are 25mm wide. I can not speak to the width of reproduced or refurbished straps.

Absolutely @ejboyd5, I had perfectly understood :)

Actually, with this material, I can't make better: under 1.5 mm wide, the stars are unusable !

I've ordered the Aber's stuff Nick told about, and I'll see if it is a better way to make the straps at the right width.

 

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Evening gentlemen :)

 

I think I've found the adequate material to scratch the straps: It's what we call "papier cuir" in French , that I translate literally by "Leather-paper".

 

You can find it in fine-arts stores and this is the one I think to use; on the left photo, the leather side, and on the right one, the paper side :
 

50763763991_e1eed41e41_b.jpg   50763763976_86dc3d25d2_b.jpg

 

This stuff is flexible but rather resistant, and I've managed to cut 1.0 or very near to 1.0 mm wide straps, and to drill tiny holes spaced each other from a pitch of about 1.0 mm, with the point a a needle

 

50763763761_b30e89d24a_b.jpg

 

it remains to scratch the buckles or to use the Aber ones I'm waiting for, if their size appears to be convenient :)

 

Meanwhile, I can't progress with this build, nor with the Delahaye's one, because it's now time for the bodywork painting for both kits, and this job is impossible actually for two reasons:

- first, the presence at home of my 2 grand-daughters. I cannot spray toxic paints nor use toxic solvents !

- Second, the cold weather that doesn't allow to open the windows to ventilate my workshop

 

So, what ? beginning a third 1:24 scale kit ? or collecting reference photos, blueprints, documents to build and enhance the next ones ?

 

Stay tuned for the next steps of the journey 😉

 

 

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