Anteater Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Going to be a shame to cover all this work when the bodywork goes on... the way you're going it could be a very good technical model instead, who needs panels? 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 23, 2020 Author Share Posted September 23, 2020 Good morning everyone Waiting to be able to scratch the remaining tubing for the chassis, I've worked on the battery housing and the battery itself, and made some drawings on Fusion 360 Hereunder the result of my struggle with this Software: Once 3D printed, the small details will be quite invisible...it doesn't matter, because I know they are there. It remains to draw with Fusion the 2 battery terminal clamps, and then to 3F print all this stuff Stay tuned if you like. 😉 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 23, 2020 Author Share Posted September 23, 2020 Good morning gentlemen The terminal clamps have been drawn on Fusion 360: The drawings could be very usefull when I'll go on my LadyBug build, because all that stuff, extremely detailed, can be printed as is, so 1:24 battery, or at 1:12 or 1:8, using the Chitubox function that allows to increase the size of the object So next step is the 3D printing of the housing and the battery, then tests for fitting, modifications if required, and finally painting job and assembly on the chassis Stay tuned if you like 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 23, 2020 Author Share Posted September 23, 2020 Evening guys First print very promising but too weak, regarding the housing, so I've redrawn it, increasing slightly its thickness. The battery was good, but, accidentally, instead of washing before curing, I started a UV curing session, so, a bad part.... 🙄 Nethertheless, all details are visible or perceptible 😎 So, be patient, I've started a new 3D printing session, and it will take more the, 2 hours 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 23, 2020 Author Share Posted September 23, 2020 Hi chaps The battery housing previously printed not only was too weak, but it was also too tall, and didn't fitted correctly. Hereunder its new design: The second 3D print has been successful for the battery housing, but the battery itself has a little defect, so there's actually a third 3D print on the go... Some pictures though: The battery (the plug of the sixth filling hole is missing, and the 4th filler on the front raw under the second connector is only partially printed ) The battery housing I've to clean and sand it before glueing and painting . And waiting to be glued, on the chassis: . . That's all for tonight Folks 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 Looking good. You’ve got me hankering after this kit now. Regards, Nick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 24, 2020 Author Share Posted September 24, 2020 Good evening chaps Finally, I've 3D printed 3 batteries without any issue. The previous defects were the consequence of an imperfect Z zero leveling, or so I believe, since only its correction has allowed to get a perfect print. Hereunder some pictures of the day's production : THat's all for now Folks 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 Good afternoon, guys And now, I go on the tubular frame with the fabrication of some tubing place at the lower left part of the chassis, which utility has been a mystery for me since yesterday. I want to speak about the tubes that i've colored red one the right photo below (The original photo has been found on Technical's-Art website, that you can visit Here. This brass chassis has been built according to the original MB plans, and this took approx. 250 hours ) After having racked my brain and overall found some photos on the Internet, I think this tubing construction serve to host the steering unit. I've attempted to design it with Fusion360, but not sure of the accuracy...all critics will be appreciated ! Nethertheless, let's see the drawings of the first part: Second part (the conic shape) coming soon. And then 3D printing, and finally test fits before any corrections . Stay tuned if you like 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 And now the conical part Slicing under Chitubox now Let's go for a 2h42mn 3D printing now 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toftdale Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 truly fantastic, I am sure an awful lot of people (myself included) have this kit and when we get round to building them we will be completely plagiarising some of your work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejboyd5 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 It was impossible for me to determine from the pictures provided whether Tamiya has supplied parts for a Treadle-Vac or an ATE T-50 brake booster, Be advised that beginning with chassis 198.040 5500354, Mercedes-Benz replaced the original Treadle-Vac unit with the ATE T-50 which obviated the need for the vacuum canister that you have so carefully constructed.. Probably a good idea to determine early on what car you are replicating since the 300 SL was subjected to many rolling changes during its production life (including the fill pipe and breather system for the lubricating oil reservoir). If you supply me with an email address, I'll send you a list of said changes. [email protected] 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 25 minutes ago, ejboyd5 said: It was impossible for me to determine from the pictures provided whether Tamiya has supplied parts for a Treadle-Vac or an ATE T-50 brake booster, Be advised that beginning with chassis 198.040 5500354, Mercedes-Benz replaced the original Treadle-Vac unit with the ATE T-50 which obviated the need for the vacuum canister that you have so carefully constructed.. Probably a good idea to determine early on what car you are replicating since the 300 SL was subjected to many rolling changes during its production life (including the fill pipe and breather system for the lubricating oil reservoir). If you supply me with an email address, I'll send you a list of said changes. [email protected] Thanks a lot @ejboyd5 for this constructive critics Tamiya simply ignore the vacuum canister, and I can't say more about the chassis-number they decided to figure. For the comparison, Eaglemoss, which sells a collector kit of MB 300 SL at 1:8 scale, has supplied the vacuum canister, and I've followed their example, only because I thought it would be fun to scratch and add this part ! The Treadle-Vac was used on the first chassis 198-040 built from 09/1954 to 05/1957, so I'll go on representing this chassis, as I've begun with it ! And so, I'm of course very interested with your list of changes. You can easily PM me via the forum, clicking on my nickname. Thanks in advance for your contribution 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 Good morning everyone My first 3D printings of the tubings has given a perfect result for the conical part But for the four branches part, firstly the shape didn't match perfectly, and secondly it broke when I cut a support , so I've redrawn it. Hereunder some pictures of the conical part: And some pictures of the new four branche part and of its slicing: While my second 3D printing of the tubings is ongoing, I've drawn the third and last part of this additional tubings This is the part I've painted red on the picture below: So, some pictures below of the fruit of my thoughts drawn with Fusion 360: And some pictures of the 3 parts placed approximately on the canvas, under Fusion 360 And after slicing with Chitubox Stay tuned for the next steps, test fits and hopefully final glueing 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 Looking good. I have learnt not use chitubox for generating supports, it’s imprecise and the scarring is difficult to remove, especially on round sections like yours. I now just redraw my parts for printing with supports as part of the model like this This isn’t the best example, but can you see I have a narrow rectangular ‘blade’ supporting the hex sections? This is on a flat face, so can be removed without scarring and goes to a large thin flat base. I would do this for most of the lengths of your round sections, it means they won’t sag or distort during printing, the model can be less tall and quicker to print. I then remove with a razor saw leaving a tiny amount to scrape/sand to the final profile. another advantage is that I can print parts flat with my ‘blades’ technique, as most suction failures happen when the small support contact dots rip away. The blades are much stronger and connected to base as large as you want to make it, and the forces are more evenly distributed too, so your latest parts could be flattened with maybe 20 - 30% of the length connected by blades to a base. great work anyway, love what you’re doing here. Nick 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 3 hours ago, nick said: Looking good. I have learnt not use chitubox for generating supports, it’s imprecise and the scarring is difficult to remove, especially on round sections like yours. I now just redraw my parts for printing with supports as part of the model like this This isn’t the best example, but can you see I have a narrow rectangular ‘blade’ supporting the hex sections? This is on a flat face, so can be removed without scarring and goes to a large thin flat base. I would do this for most of the lengths of your round sections, it means they won’t sag or distort during printing, the model can be less tall and quicker to print. I then remove with a razor saw leaving a tiny amount to scrape/sand to the final profile. another advantage is can print parts flat with my ‘blades’, most suction failures happen when the small support contact dots rip away. The blades are much stronger and connected to base as large as you want to make it, so your latest parts could be flattened with maybe 20 - 30% of the length connected by blades to a base. great work anyway, love what you’re doing here. Nick Thanks a lot Nick for the advice. I'll try your method next time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 33 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said: Thanks a lot Nick for the advice. I'll try your method next time... Forgot to mention, for cylinders, draw two concentric circles on the bottom contact face, one slightly smaller than the outer diameter, one slightly bigger than the inner diameter and extrude this thin walled cylinder into your base (0.2mm is all you need for base thickness BTW) This is much stronger than conventional supports, easier to remove and doesn’t suffer from elephant foot. Plus the step proves a cutting/sanding guide. that’s the steps you can see on my example, on all the cylinders finally with different angles, as in my example, just extrude all the supports longer than required, then just ‘capture’ them all with the rectangle of the base, extrude up to the desired print height, then cut all the junk left underneath when you make the base .2mm thick. hope that makes sense. Have fun. Nick. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 26 minutes ago, nick said: Forgot to mention, for cylinders, draw two concentric circles on the bottom contact face, one slightly smaller than the outer diameter, one slightly bigger than the inner diameter and extrude this thin walled cylinder into your base (0.2mm is all you need for base thickness BTW) This is much stronger than conventional supports, easier to remove and doesn’t suffer from elephant foot. Plus the step proves a cutting/sanding guide. that’s the steps you can see on my example, on all the cylinders finally with different angles, as in my example, just extrude all the supports longer than required, then just ‘capture’ them all with the rectangle of the base, extrude up to the desired print height, then cut all the junk left underneath when you make the base .2mm thick. hope that makes sense. Have fun. Nick. Yes it does, @nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 Morning Gentlemen I'm pretty proud of what I made tonight and this noon to quite finalizing the tubular chassis The four branches tubing and the conical part have been trimed when necessary and glued in place while the last 3D printing is ongoing. Obviously, before glueing these parts on the chassis, I've verified that the engine fitted well without coming in contact with any added part See you soon for the last step 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejboyd5 Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 17 hours ago, CrazyCrank said: The Treadle-Vac was used on the first chassis 198-040 built from 09/1954 to 05/1957, so I'll go on representing this chassis, as I've begun with it Not exactly. The Treadle-Vac appeared on only a small percentage of the 300 SLs. 198.040 5500354, the car with the first installed T-50, was completed on June 2, 1956. With all the work you are putting into this project it would be a shame to miss out on this important detail. If you will post a picture of the Tamiya supplied booster it should be a easy matter to determine if is a Treadle-Vac or a T-50. A copy of the Instruction sheet would also be helpful as booster locations were different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 2 hours ago, ejboyd5 said: Not exactly. The Treadle-Vac appeared on only a small percentage of the 300 SLs. 198.040 5500354, the car with the first installed T-50, was completed on June 2, 1956. With all the work you are putting into this project it would be a shame to miss out on this important detail. If you will post a picture of the Tamiya supplied booster it should be a easy matter to determine if is a Treadle-Vac or a T-50. A copy of the Instruction sheet would also be helpful as booster locations were different. You're certainly in good position to say that, and, reading this article ,we learn that the ATE brake booster replaced the Treadle-Vac unit after the car number 353. I've found on Niemoeller Website some pictures and exploded views of AT T50 (Right picture) and Treadle-Vac (Left picture): And, after having looked carefully at the instruction sheets and at the sprues, I think that Tamiya doesn't supply in the kit any part which could figure these elements... However, I've noticed that with the ATE brake booster, there is a brake fluid tank, while there's not with the Treadle-Vac. BUT, on the Tamiya kit, there is a part to place on the bulkhead, which hav a blue cap, and looks like a fluid tank. On the Eaglemoss 1:8 kit, we can find the same part, which is called Brake fluid tank ! So, we can imagine that f there's a brake-fluid, the brake booster is an ATE;and not a Treadle-Vac. Very curiously, on the Eaglemoss kit, there is a vacuum canister, as if the brake booster were a Treadle-Vac !! Brake fluid tank on a AT 50 brake booster system: Eaglemoss kit: Tamiya kit instruction sheet (cylindrical part of the referenced B19 item) I'm at the end of my rope ! What do you reckon ? CC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 Well...you lost me about 4 posts back...afraid this 3D lark is way above my pay grade...and beyond my comprehension...a dark art if ever there was one 🙃 Still enjoying it all coming together though Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 25 minutes ago, silver911 said: Well...you lost me about 4 posts back...afraid this 3D lark is way above my pay grade...and beyond my comprehension...a dark art if ever there was one 🙃 Still enjoying it all coming together though Ron What a tribute ! Thanks a lot for the compliment Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 Evening guys Well, the tubular chassis is finished after having put the front left and right additional tubes and appendices. I've also glued the battery housing, and all that stuff has been cleaned and primed. I took the opportunity to prime also the engine block's parts and the rear axle. The next steps will be the painting of this tubular chassis with Tamiya semi-gloss black X18 and then spraying two or three coats of ultra-gloss clear, in order both to get the color needed (gloss black X1) and to protect it while handling... See you soon Folks and thanks for watching 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejboyd5 Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 (edited) Tamiya part 19B is indeed the brake fluid canister for the ATE system meaning that the vacuum reservoir you so carefully constructed is inappropriate for this particular car. All in all we are now in a strictly academic discussion since both the vacuum reservoir and the ATE T-50 brake booster are completely shrouded by the car's bodywork and can only be seen if one removes the left side rocker panel. Solider on with your remarkable 3D printing efforts. Some considerable work still lies ahead in opening the two vents in the roof area to the rear of the doors. Be very careful in following Tamiya's painting suggestions as they may not be completely accurate, Edited September 27, 2020 by ejboyd5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 Good night guys And now 3D printing for stands to support my tubular chassis while I'm busy with other parts of the car Stay tuned if you like 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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