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Mercedes 300SL Gullwing 1/24 Tamiya with photoetched detail up set from Hobby Design


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Good morning everyone :)

 

Waiting to be able to scratch the remaining tubing for the chassis, I've worked on the battery housing and the battery itself, and made some drawings on Fusion 360

 

Hereunder the result of my struggle with this Software:

 

50373706387_d26346f24f_c.jpg   50373540821_9bc0d59672_c.jpg

 

50372841298_43d53d884d_c.jpg

 

50372841383_b958a282dd_c.jpg   50372841343_e970c2308e_c.jpg

 

50373706052_a6f9efddeb_c.jpg   

 

Once 3D printed, the small details will be quite invisible...it doesn't matter, because I know they are there.

It remains to draw with Fusion the 2 battery terminal clamps, and then to 3F print all this stuff

 

Stay tuned if you like. 😉

 

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Good morning gentlemen :)

 

The terminal clamps have been drawn on Fusion 360:

 

50375020482_aa4c9b8236_b.jpg

 

The drawings could be very usefull when I'll go on my LadyBug build, because all that stuff, extremely detailed, can be printed as is, so 1:24 battery, or at 1:12 or 1:8, using the Chitubox function that allows to increase the size of the object

 

So next step is the 3D printing of the housing and the battery, then tests for fitting, modifications if required, and finally painting job and assembly on the chassis

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

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Evening guys

 

First print very promising but too weak, regarding the housing, so I've redrawn it, increasing slightly its thickness.

The battery was good, but, accidentally, instead of washing before curing, I started a UV curing session, so, a bad part.... 🙄

 

Nethertheless, all details are visible or perceptible :)😎

 

So, be patient, I've started a new 3D printing session, and it will take more the, 2 hours

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Hi chaps :)

 

The battery housing previously printed not only was too weak, but it was also too tall, and didn't fitted correctly.

 

Hereunder its new design:

 

50375922713_ea8ca7839f_c.jpg 

 

 

 

 

The second 3D print has been successful for the battery housing, but the battery itself has a little defect, so there's actually a third 3D print on the go...

 

Some pictures though:

 

The battery (the plug of the sixth filling hole is missing, and the 4th filler on the front raw under  the second connector is only partially printed )

 

50375902893_5574b1e6b5_c.jpg

 

The battery housing

 

50375902263_69673f4717_c.jpg    50375902473_43cde48592_c.jpg

 

I've to clean and sand it before glueing and painting .

 

And waiting to be glued, on the chassis:

 

50376792627_826a5658dd_c.jpg   50376773347_bb7754c89c_c.jpg.  50376601691_6fb1316712_c.jpg

 

50375905003_104cf624b2_c.jpg.  50376792492_bae4c64c73_c.jpg   50376601921_d5729cf3ec_c.jpg

 

That's all for tonight Folks :)

 

 

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Good evening chaps :)

 

Finally, I've 3D printed 3 batteries without any issue.

The previous defects were the consequence of an imperfect Z zero leveling, or so I believe, since only its correction has allowed to get a perfect print.

 

Hereunder some pictures of the day's production :

 

50380385382_9b5c31fbce_b.jpg   50380205411_d32bdfd203_b.jpg

 

50380203691_c524ff826b_b.jpg   50380383422_7cc5b24688_b.jpg

 

50380202426_b641141868_b.jpg

 

50379506033_9d60fb34d2_b.jpg   50379505663_d98f9c464a_b.jpg

 

THat's all for now Folks :)

 

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Good afternoon, guys :)

 

And now, I go on the tubular frame with the fabrication of some tubing place at the lower left part of the chassis, which utility has been a mystery for me since yesterday.

 

I want to speak about the tubes that i've colored red one the right photo below (The original photo has been found on Technical's-Art website, that you can visit Here. This brass chassis has been built according to the original MB plans, and this took approx. 250 hours )

 

50386041297_55702a31b0_b.jpg   50386052247_50ef577a7e_b.jpg

 

After having racked my brain and overall found some photos on the Internet, I think  this tubing construction serve to host the steering unit.

 

I've attempted to design it with Fusion360, but not sure of the accuracy...all critics will be appreciated !

 

Nethertheless, let's see the drawings of the first part:

 

 

50386026736_a0d57abf5e_h.jpg

 

50386026746_ec213524e1_c.jpg   50385331188_de74435b38_c.jpg

 

50386202537_b6cb101bc8_c.jpg   50386202542_71340930b0_c.jpg

 

Second part (the conic shape) coming soon.

And then 3D printing, and finally test fits before any corrections .

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

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It was impossible for me to determine from the pictures provided whether Tamiya has supplied parts for a Treadle-Vac or an ATE T-50 brake booster,  Be advised that beginning with chassis 198.040 5500354, Mercedes-Benz replaced the original Treadle-Vac unit with the ATE T-50 which obviated the need for the vacuum canister that you have so carefully constructed.. Probably a good idea to determine early on what car you are replicating since the 300 SL was subjected to many rolling changes during its production life (including the fill pipe and breather system for the lubricating oil reservoir). If you supply me with an email address, I'll send you a list of said changes.        [email protected]  

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25 minutes ago, ejboyd5 said:

It was impossible for me to determine from the pictures provided whether Tamiya has supplied parts for a Treadle-Vac or an ATE T-50 brake booster,  Be advised that beginning with chassis 198.040 5500354, Mercedes-Benz replaced the original Treadle-Vac unit with the ATE T-50 which obviated the need for the vacuum canister that you have so carefully constructed.. Probably a good idea to determine early on what car you are replicating since the 300 SL was subjected to many rolling changes during its production life (including the fill pipe and breather system for the lubricating oil reservoir). If you supply me with an email address, I'll send you a list of said changes.        [email protected]  

Thanks a lot @ejboyd5 for this constructive critics

 

Tamiya simply ignore the vacuum canister, and I can't say more about the chassis-number they decided to figure.

For the comparison, Eaglemoss, which sells a collector kit of MB 300 SL at 1:8 scale, has supplied the vacuum canister, and I've followed their example, only because I thought it would be fun to scratch and add this part !

The Treadle-Vac was used on the first chassis 198-040 built from 09/1954 to 05/1957, so I'll go on representing this chassis, as I've begun with it !

 

And so, I'm of course very interested with your list of changes. You can easily PM me via the forum, clicking on my nickname.

 

Thanks in advance for your contribution :)

 

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Good morning everyone :)

 

My first 3D printings of the tubings has given a perfect result for the conical part

 

But for the four branches part, firstly the shape didn't match perfectly, and secondly it broke when I cut a support , so I've redrawn it.

 

Hereunder some pictures of the conical part:

 

50387622406_29bf128a8e_c.jpg   50387622481_9d652dcba2_c.jpg

 

And some pictures of the new four branche part and of its slicing:

 

50387671241_c5a67f91dc_c.jpg   50387832792_6b284b32ed_c.jpg

 

While my second 3D printing of the tubings is ongoing,  I've drawn the third and last part of this additional tubings

 

This is the part I've painted red on the picture below:

 

50387793662_738e5e857c_b.jpg

 

So, some pictures below of the fruit of my thoughts drawn with Fusion 360:

 

50386922948_f095fe9fea_c.jpg   50386922828_ba60e85a06_c.jpg

 

50387622576_d9c253ba72_c.jpg   50387622451_20b9ace531_c.jpg

 

And some pictures of the 3 parts placed approximately on the canvas, under Fusion 360

 

50387622676_ef4295dc7e_b.jpg   50387622671_66b1f456b1_b.jpg

 

50386922993_d0e3b99ccf_b.jpg  50386923003_21c411a157_b.jpg

 

And after slicing with Chitubox

 

50387622641_dc1f362c80_c.jpg

 

Stay tuned for the next steps, test fits and hopefully final glueing :)

 

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Looking good. 
 

I have learnt not use chitubox for generating supports, it’s imprecise and the scarring is difficult to remove, especially on round sections like yours. 
 

I now just redraw my parts for printing with supports as part of the model like this

 

50316849866_4541e2735f_h.jpg

 

This isn’t the best example, but can you see I have a narrow rectangular ‘blade’ supporting the hex sections? This is on a flat face, so can be removed without scarring and goes to a large thin flat base. 
 

I would do this for most of the lengths of your round sections, it means they won’t sag or distort during printing, the model can be less tall and quicker to print. 
 

I then remove with a razor saw leaving a tiny amount to scrape/sand to the final profile. 
 

another advantage is that I can print parts flat with my ‘blades’ technique, as most suction failures happen when the small support contact dots rip away. The blades are much stronger and connected to base as large as you want to make it, and the forces are more evenly distributed too, so your latest parts could be flattened with maybe 20 - 30% of the length connected by blades to a base. 
 

great work anyway, love what you’re doing here. 
 

Nick

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3 hours ago, nick said:

Looking good. 
 

I have learnt not use chitubox for generating supports, it’s imprecise and the scarring is difficult to remove, especially on round sections like yours. 
 

I now just redraw my parts for printing with supports as part of the model like this

 

50316849866_4541e2735f_h.jpg

 

This isn’t the best example, but can you see I have a narrow rectangular ‘blade’ supporting the hex sections? This is on a flat face, so can be removed without scarring and goes to a large thin flat base. 
 

I would do this for most of the lengths of your round sections, it means they won’t sag or distort during printing, the model can be less tall and quicker to print. 
 

I then remove with a razor saw leaving a tiny amount to scrape/sand to the final profile. 
 

another advantage is can print parts flat with my ‘blades’, most suction failures happen when the small support contact dots rip away. The blades are much stronger and connected to base as large as you want to make it, so your latest parts could be flattened with maybe 20 - 30% of the length connected by blades to a base. 
 

great work anyway, love what you’re doing here. 
 

Nick

Thanks a lot Nick for the advice.

I'll try your method next time...

 

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33 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

Thanks a lot Nick for the advice.

I'll try your method next time...

 

Forgot to mention, for cylinders, draw two concentric circles on the bottom contact face, one slightly smaller than the outer diameter, one slightly bigger than the inner diameter and extrude this thin walled cylinder into your base (0.2mm is all you need for base thickness BTW)

 

This is much stronger than conventional supports, easier to remove and doesn’t suffer from elephant foot. Plus the step proves a cutting/sanding guide. 
 

that’s the steps you can see on my example, on all the cylinders
 

finally with different angles, as in my example, just extrude all the supports longer than required, then just ‘capture’ them all with the rectangle of the base, extrude up to the desired print height, then cut all the junk left underneath when you make the base .2mm thick. 
 

hope that makes sense. Have fun. 
 

Nick. 

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26 minutes ago, nick said:

Forgot to mention, for cylinders, draw two concentric circles on the bottom contact face, one slightly smaller than the outer diameter, one slightly bigger than the inner diameter and extrude this thin walled cylinder into your base (0.2mm is all you need for base thickness BTW)

 

This is much stronger than conventional supports, easier to remove and doesn’t suffer from elephant foot. Plus the step proves a cutting/sanding guide. 
 

that’s the steps you can see on my example, on all the cylinders
 

finally with different angles, as in my example, just extrude all the supports longer than required, then just ‘capture’ them all with the rectangle of the base, extrude up to the desired print height, then cut all the junk left underneath when you make the base .2mm thick. 
 

hope that makes sense. Have fun. 
 

Nick. 

Yes it does, @nick

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Morning Gentlemen :)

 

I'm pretty proud of what I made tonight and this noon to quite finalizing the tubular chassis

The four branches tubing and the conical part have been trimed when necessary and glued in place while the last 3D printing is ongoing.

 

50388322673_5ec1754ebf_b.jpg   50389017076_0db2c022b4_b.jpg

 

50388322668_d2130e7a56_b.jpg

 

50389017031_1f82045451_b.jpg   50388322643_cddca760a9_b.jpg

 

Obviously, before glueing these parts on the chassis, I've verified that the engine fitted well without coming in contact with any added part :)

 

See you soon for the last step :)

 

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17 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

The Treadle-Vac was used on the first chassis 198-040 built from 09/1954 to 05/1957, so I'll go on representing this chassis, as I've begun with it 

 

Not exactly. The Treadle-Vac appeared on only a small percentage of the 300 SLs. 198.040 5500354, the car with the first installed T-50,  was completed on June 2, 1956. With all the work you are putting into this project it would be a shame to miss out on this important detail. If you will post a picture of the Tamiya supplied booster it should be a easy matter to determine if is a Treadle-Vac or a T-50. A copy of the Instruction sheet would also be helpful as booster locations were different.

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2 hours ago, ejboyd5 said:

Not exactly. The Treadle-Vac appeared on only a small percentage of the 300 SLs. 198.040 5500354, the car with the first installed T-50,  was completed on June 2, 1956. With all the work you are putting into this project it would be a shame to miss out on this important detail. If you will post a picture of the Tamiya supplied booster it should be a easy matter to determine if is a Treadle-Vac or a T-50. A copy of the Instruction sheet would also be helpful as booster locations were different.

 You're certainly in good position to say that, and, reading this article ,we learn that the ATE brake booster replaced the Treadle-Vac unit after the car number 353.

 

I've found on Niemoeller Website some pictures and exploded views of AT T50 (Right picture) and Treadle-Vac (Left picture):

 

50389138863_bc7d086beb_b.jpg   50389834541_dbd2ba1c5c_b.jpg

 

And, after having looked carefully at the instruction sheets and at the sprues, I think that Tamiya doesn't supply in the kit any part which could figure these elements...

 

However, I've noticed that with the ATE brake booster, there is a brake fluid tank, while there's not with the Treadle-Vac.

 

BUT, on the Tamiya kit, there is a part to place on the bulkhead, which hav a blue cap, and looks like a fluid tank.

On the Eaglemoss 1:8 kit, we can find the same part, which is called Brake fluid tank !

 

So, we can imagine that f there's a brake-fluid, the brake booster is an ATE;and not a Treadle-Vac.

 

Very curiously, on the Eaglemoss kit, there is a vacuum canister, as if the brake booster were a Treadle-Vac !!

 

Brake fluid tank on a AT 50 brake booster system:

 

50390258887_4f675ab3b7_c.jpg

 

Eaglemoss kit:

 

50389389478_ebf947355e_c.jpg   50389389403_08bc6ca1da_c.jpg

 

Tamiya kit instruction sheet (cylindrical part of the referenced B19 item)

 

50390083931_a8edddffe6_c.jpg

 

I'm at the end of my rope !

What do you reckon ?

 

CC

 

 

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25 minutes ago, silver911 said:

Well...you lost me about 4 posts back...afraid this 3D lark is way above my pay grade...and beyond my comprehension...a dark art if ever there was one 🙃

Still enjoying it all coming together though :)

 

 

Ron

What a tribute ! Thanks a lot for the compliment Ron :)

 

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Evening guys :)

 

Well, the tubular chassis is finished after having put the front left and right additional tubes and appendices.

 

50389936663_91fde60c67_c.jpg   50390803557_2a30bbd351_c.jpg

 

I've also glued the battery housing, and all that stuff has been cleaned and primed.

 

50390628866_077a4648cf_b.jpg   50390804107_26c136f2f4_b.jpg

 

50389936673_1b093f3dcb_b.jpg   50389936588_6afcff8718_b.jpg

 

50389936478_aca33a210b_b.jpg

 

I took the opportunity  to prime also the engine block's parts and the rear axle.

 

The next steps will be the painting of this tubular chassis with Tamiya semi-gloss black X18  and then spraying two or three coats of ultra-gloss clear, in order both to get the color needed (gloss black X1) and to protect it while handling...

 

See you soon Folks and thanks for watching :)

 

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Tamiya part 19B is indeed the brake fluid canister for the ATE system meaning that the vacuum reservoir you so carefully constructed is inappropriate for this particular car.  All in all we are now in a strictly academic discussion since both the vacuum reservoir and the ATE T-50 brake booster are completely shrouded by the car's bodywork and can only be seen if one removes the left side rocker panel. Solider on with your remarkable 3D printing efforts. Some considerable work still lies ahead in opening the two vents in the roof area to the rear of the doors.

Be very careful in following Tamiya's painting suggestions as they may not be completely accurate,

Edited by ejboyd5
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