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VMF-512 F4U-ID - Tamiya 1/48 ***FINISHED***


Ray_W

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19 minutes ago, John Masters said:

This is looking beautiful Ray.  Your attention to the paint job makes a huge difference.  Really professional.

Thanks John, I'm not totally happy with the rockets. I think I'll spray the detonator cones rather than hand paint and probably experiment a little more with the oil dot filter on the war heads. In the mean time, I'll continue the tussle with the Montex Masks and get that National Insignia done.

 

Corsair_Construction_77

 

  

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6 hours ago, Ray_W said:

Thanks Dennis, I used Brown Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color just to wick into the details. Not really a wash. 

Noted. Thank you so much. May I ask why did you choose brown over black? I see a lot of modellers prefer black in that area (engine, etc).

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3 hours ago, luftmodels said:

May I ask why did you choose brown over black

I am not tied to any one colour. It really depends on the effect that I want to achieve. In this case the thin Tamiya brown gave me the more subtle colour variation I wanted. I did not want an oily prop hub, more so one that was just stained. In fact, I did use black just where the prop blades enter the hub.

 

Corsair_Construction_78

 

 

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8 hours ago, modelling minion said:

Looks good Ray, looking forward to seeing the markings completed.

Thanks Craig, masking and painting US Navy circle and bar markings over your nice paint job is why modelling is an adrenalin sport. Can I say "masking is like a box of chocolates". 

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I finished the painting of the insignia. Overall reasonably happy with the job. As usual, I only get my Montex Mask technique locked down by the last mark. I go from needing 6 hands to OK I can get by with 2. 

 

I was very pleased with the Insignia Blue. I was just about to start mixing up a suitable brew when I discovered Gunze make a US Insignia Blue FS 15044 in their lacquer (C326) and their Aqueous (H326) ranges. It looks about right ( @Troy Smith Troy for your info). 

 

Quick trip to the LHS. Can I be so lucky? Yes, purchased and quickly applied.

 

Masks removed. I did a little bit of fading of the insignia mainly on that leading edge where they seem to blend into the faded Glossy Blue. This is the underside. It needs that clear coat to blend the level of sheen. 

 

Funny they look like decals.

 

Corsair_Construction_79

 

Certainly nice to get some other colours into play.

 

Corsair_Construction_80

 

I did not fade the fuselage insignia. Seems it was a fairly robust paint.  Will weather them in slightly during the final part of the build.

 

Corsair_Construction_81

 

I'll let these dry now and then give them an ever so light rub down with some 3000 grit.

 

More masking to come, onto those VMF-512 identifying bands.

 

Ray

 

 

 

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16 hours ago, Ray_W said:

I am not tied to any one colour. It really depends on the effect that I want to achieve. In this case the thin Tamiya brown gave me the more subtle colour variation I wanted. I did not want an oily prop hub, more so one that was just stained. In fact, I did use black just where the prop blades enter the hub.

 

Corsair_Construction_78

 

 

Got it. Good point. I agree, black is not that aggressive. Looks on spot! 👍🏻

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5 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Well dang that looks great, nice work on everything. 

Thanks Dennis, it has not been a quick build but it certainly is an enjoyable one. The photos I took last night seem to be the first ones that capture the blue in Gunze's representation of ANA 623 Glossy Sea Blue that you see with the naked eye and yet struggle to capture with a photo. I broke that rudder tip aerial mast off ... again. I think I'll leave it off now until the end. Ray

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All masked up for the white stripes. You can see why I did the National Insignia separately. Too much masking would be going on at the one time.

 

I made some adjustment to that which was on the Montex artwork by reference to photos of VMF-512 aircraft and scaling off my computer screen. Using a number of images I decide on the stripes at width 5.5" (rounded to a scale 3 mm) and gaps of 4.5" (rounded to scale 2.5 mm). I matched the width and position of the wing tip white bars to the insignia bars. Lateral positions of the stripes again was the best I could ascertain off the photos.

 

It'll do. 

 

Apologies this image is somewhat blurred. 

 

 

Corsair_Construction_84

 

I used Gunze H11 Flat White thinned with a bit of Mr Levelling Thinners. Masks removed.

 

Corsair_Construction_83

 

Corsair_Construction_82

 

You may recall from an earlier post that I said I was "reasonably happy" with the National markings. You might note in the above images that the arms of the stars do not touch the white bars as they should. I have a nice constant border in the bars but a slight gap on the stars. Something I did not expect. I would say operator error rather than Montex. The masks are cut with the point touching. Possibly a limitation of spraying with such a fine point required even though I did the reverse white first then blue. Something certainly to watch next time. I will let everything dry for the next 24 hours and then decide if I want to do some corrective work. I might mask and adjust a couple. 

 

Ray

 

 

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Couldn't help myself. You know how it is when something is annoying you on a build. You just have to fix it. Decided to immediately adjust the fuselage markings with some micro masking and micro air brushing. Now stars touch the bars! 

 

Nervy exercise!! Too much to go wrong but got out of jail this time. I've left the wing markings. Topside is so close it will be difficult to achieve what I want and the bottom side is, well, the bottom side. Need to be a insignia expert to pick it. Much happier now. 

 

Note to self:  Next time when spraying markings onto a very dark surface, either spray the white first and do all your colour coats over it or feather the white to the edge of the mask to ensure no ridge. 

 

Corsair_Construction_85

 

As a postscript for today's effort, having finished the painted marks and correcting the insignias, I put on another coat of Gunze GX112 Super Clear to encapsulate all and get ready for just a few decals and some weathering (not too much).

 

Corsair_Construction_86

 

The finish has come up good. Seems like I could just stick the wheels on and call it done. Not to be. More to come.

 

Ray 

Edited by Ray_W
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15 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

🤯:yikes: Fan Dang tastic ! 

Dennis, Thanks for the enthusiastic response. It's getting there. I'm glad the markings painting is over. Montex provide decals and masks for the numbers. Based on my experience in getting the white coverage, which I think will be exacerbated in a narrow number, I'll go the decals. 

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I was up very early this morning and as the GX112 had about 15 hours to dry in very warm conditions I decided to press on and do the decals.

 

The decision to use the Montex decals for the numbers was the right call. They went down beautifully over my usual Future:Water mix (70:30). As mentioned previously, I do not use the Future mix as a top coat, other than any residual that may be left, and will cover the decals in more GX112 before weathering. Here they are before that top coat.  Can't ask better than this from decals!

 

Corsair_Construction_87

 

I noted in photos that the stencilling is very obvious on the blackish coloured F4U's so on with the Tamiya. 

 

Now this is an old trick with Tamiya decals but it is still a goodie. I sand them down using a 1000 sanding sponge followed by a 3000. Obviously the right hand stencil has had some sanding.

 

Corsair_Construction_89

 

And here is the sanded decal applied. Look at the hairs! No where to hide with camera macros!

 

Corsair_Construction_90

 

So overall a very pleasing decalling job. You have to get one sooner or later! 

 

Corsair_Construction_88

 

Ray

 

 

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6 minutes ago, modelling minion said:

Great work on the decals Ray, and a very useful tip about sanding them down, I shall use that in the future.

Sand them down and couple it with @stevehnz Future mix and you're on a winner.  For the small pesty silvering stuff the mix works like a charm. I must use the mix on large decals. It's hard to break old habits when I have my Mr Setter/Softer routine well sorted.

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I wanted to accentuate some of the features with a panel line accent without overdoing it. Very difficult to do with a dark aircraft like a GSB Corsair. I'm not much into whites or light greys, certainly makes the detail pop but, to my eye, it is not like the real aircraft. As you can see these Marines aircraft were dull! 

 

Corsair_Construction_93

 

So I fell back to my usual Brown Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color to give a hint of detail and AK Paneliner for Sand and Desert Camouflage, which is a heavier dirt brown, for control surface gaps and around the cowl flaps. Lightly applied and dragged back across the surfaces. It also acts as a filter to disrupt the surface colour. Also toned down the white slightly.

 

Here it is done, not much to see in the photo but it is there.

 

Corsair_Construction_91

 

 If you get in close you can see it.

 

Corsair_Construction_92

 

Now the fun really begins. I'll stick those radio masts in place then it's time for a very flat coat in some areas and a variation from slight sheen to more glossy in others. Exhaust and fuel stains and wear and tear.

 

Ray

 

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Just now, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

The brown gives it a touch of griminess which is actually very nice and effective. 

Yes It's a nice effect without going overboard.

 

While I have you - Do you know what colour  was the tail hook on war time corsairs?

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