Jump to content

Royal Norwegian Air Force P-3 Orion.


Recommended Posts

Now that my USS Olympia build is winding down it's time for an airplane again.

I grew up close to a Norwegian Air Force base housing the RNoAF 333sqdn P-3s, Hence I've always had a strong affinity for this plane.

 

On Sep 13th 1987 one of the units P-3s collided with an Su-27 Flanker. This P-3 will be the subject of this build.

 

The plane

DNI9x-Oo-Ws-AIH3-Bt.jpg

 

The incident as depicted on the boxart for a Trumpeter Flanker, incidentally my next build to join the P-3 on the shelf...

Photo-Jun-22-14-44-42.jpg

 

The kit

Photo-Jun-14-12-26-37.jpg

 

Photo-Jun-22-14-42-34.jpg

 

Got some aftermarket sets to add some detail. Planning on the plane being parked with the rear entry door closed but ladder attached, flaps down and bomb bay doors open. In addition I plan on recreating the damage to the props. I'll have the affected prop feathered with the engine covers open.

 

Photo-Jun-22-21-48-01.jpg

 

Photo-Jun-22-15-12-24.jpg

 

Photo-Jun-22-15-12-33.jpg

 

Since I'm not planning on using the rear interior I'll use seats in the CMR set up in the cockpit instead.

 

Photo-Jun-22-15-11-50-1.jpg

 

Well, at least all that is the plan...we'll see how it actually turns out.

 

Ken

 

 

  • Like 15
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Vingtor released a set with RNoAF numbers in different scales, so I'm hoping to use some of those. As for roundels, I'll have to source some from my many Vingtor sets, hopefully some will be close enough. As for the name of the plane, I guess I'll have to print my own, or have someone print them for me. I ordered a random p-3 decal sheet off e-bay to get all the other sundry markings and warning labels.

It's a shame that there are no updated decal sheets for Norwegian P-3s. I really like the new light grey scheme with the Saint on the tail.

Edited by Helidriver
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

RNoAF P-3B/C/N decals are high up on my (Vingtor's) wish list. I have all the documentation I need, I think. My main problem is my day job - it takes too much of my time...... There is also an awful lot of stencils to go with that aircraft type.

 

Nils 

Edited by Vingtor
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great to see this classic being built, love the kit.

Also love the P-3, especially Norwegian ones, very rarely got to see them though.

 

I was lucky enough to take the controls of a Kon.Marine P-3 on the night of my birthday in 1999,  we used the Moon as a guide for the MAD alignment routine before joining a low-level naval excercise in the Plymouth danger area with helicopters and ships beneath us and flares going off, will never forget that night.

 

I hadn't realised that there were aftermarket parts for this kit so might have to invest

Will be watching intently!

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very cool.  I'm sure the SU-27 was the one that collided with the non-maneuvering P-3.  There have been numerous close calls, and I thought the rule is that the higher performing aircraft (i.e. fighter) is responsible for maintaining proper separation. 71Chally will probably know.  Whatever the case, I'll be following this build!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, TheyJammedKenny! said:

I thought the rule is that the higher performing aircraft (i.e. fighter) is responsible for maintaining proper separation.

Largely correct, however military can 'define' their own rules exempt from ICAO guidelines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Antti_K said:

Here's my P-3B built out of the Revell P-3C re-boxing. This is the original paint scheme.

Very original, possibly the delivery scheme. The individual letter on the nose was soon replaced with the name of a Norwegian polar explorer.

 

Nils

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Vingtor said:

Very original, possibly the delivery scheme. The individual letter on the nose was soon replaced with the name of a Norwegian polar explorer.

 

Nils

That's what I believe as well. When I built this model (some 15 years ago) I only had one photograph of the original aircraft in this paint scheme. Later some book suggested that the photo of KK-M was taken during the delivery flights in the USA. Internet search led me to discussion about RNoAF paints and colour shades. The site stated FS 36118 for the overall colour. I used Humbrol 125.

 

Funny, as I'm writing this the Finnish television shows a document about Fritiof Nansen😉

 

Cheers,

Antti

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice start Ken,

 

I have built a few P-3s now (5 in the display case and another at my son's work). I was thinking of adding a Norwegian one to the collection for a bit of 'colour'.

 

I have the some of the sets you are using, have been saving them up for a comprehensive RAAF AP-3C build so I will be watching how you go installing them. I just need to finish the Argentinian P-3B and P-7 conversion next to the bench before I start another one.

 

@Antti_K I like your P-3B, did you used the Microscale sheet on it? It turned out very nicely!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the topic of these, does anyone know if the wings bolt on at the fuselage as in two wings and a center section or just one large unit to the floor? if so is there any pictures of the root area? same with the tailplane. I want to know how to model one with the wings off on a trailer but don't want it to look like they were chainsawed off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Needs to be a big trailer! Have a look at https://qam.com.au/portfolio/lockheed-orion-brooke/ for some pictures of the Queensland Air Museum's AP-3C in transit. The wings unbolt at the fuselage (well, centre wing, actually) 65 inches out from the fuselage centreline. The horizontal stabilisers are solidly-mounted to the empennage and the entire empennage unbolts at Fuselage Station 1117. I look forward to your project!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Bell209 said:

Needs to be a big trailer! Have a look at https://qam.com.au/portfolio/lockheed-orion-brooke/ for some pictures of the Queensland Air Museum's AP-3C in transit. The wings unbolt at the fuselage (well, centre wing, actually) 65 inches out from the fuselage centreline. The horizontal stabilisers are solidly-mounted to the empennage and the entire empennage unbolts at Fuselage Station 1117. I look forward to your project!

You beat me to it Rob, I was going to hunt for the AWM and SAAM aircraft in similar states.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Romeo Alpha Yankee said:

@Antti_K I like your P-3B, did you used the Microscale sheet on it? It turned out very nicely!

Thank you Ray🙂

 

I used all possible decals from the spares box. All airframe servicing and rescue markings came from the kit's own decal sheet. As the kit was a Luftwaffe (or German Marine) P-3C in a current paint scheme, I had to paint those walkways with black. Individual letters KK-M were hand painted.

 

Also some modifications had to be made for a P-3B. IIRC, at least one or two fuselage windows were painted over, completely new aerials, wing pylons and search light(?) pod scratch built and also the sonar buoy tubes had to be modified.

 

Cheers,

Antti

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Back again.... Being back at work post my covid furlough really cut into my hobby time...

 

Got the cockpit and bomb bay sorted and installed, and the fuselage halves together.

 

Photo-Jul-20-14-59-01.jpg

 

Photo-Jul-27-22-12-59.jpg

 

Photo-Jul-27-22-17-24.jpg

 

Photo-Jul-27-16-17-41.jpg

 

Photo-Aug-03-14-39-58.jpg

 

And this is where I get a bit confused/frustrated...

 

The gear well looks ok from this side, albeit just dry fitted and not painted yet:

 

Photo-Aug-04-14-44-24.jpg

 

The other side however...

 

Photo-Aug-04-14-44-33.jpg

 

Instructions calls for sanding it down to shape to make it fit...but the resin as well as kit parts are so thin even before sanding that they are see through. Clearly sanding this to fit will not work.

 

Photo-Aug-04-14-45-01.jpg

 

Probably going to ditch the resin wheel wells. Luckily the surgery performed on the kit still makes it possible to use the kit gear legs. And with the gear doors in place it wont be obvious that the resin part isn't there. Unless you look for it..

 

Thanks,

Ken

 

 

 

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...