Spec7 Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Simple question really what do you guys use to glue PE that gives you a minute to get things positioned. ? I find super glue goes off on contact and when doing things like ribs on landing flaps, leaves a white residue or dries white ? Am i missing an obvious answer ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Future or any of its derivatives (Klear, X20 etc.) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AltcarBoB Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 PVA white wood glue, fast drying stuff for gluing laminate is good. GS hypo cement Bostik clear Varnish, gloss enamel is stickiest but takes longest to dry. Gel type superglue, to stop the white bloom rub both surfaces with isopropyl alcohol or similar before gluing. It won't stop it completely but reduces it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec7 Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 OK i have a bottle of Klear here now. I can stick metal with this ? I will give it a try, what do i do, paint it on and hold the two parts together ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 17 minutes ago, Spec7 said: OK i have a bottle of Klear here now. I can stick metal with this ? I will give it a try, what do i do, paint it on and hold the two parts together ? No not really - Future works for sticking PE together in my experience if you have big flat surfaces or things that slide into each other (like bomb or rocket fins) that have some sort of natural grip. In my experience that's where Future works for gluing PE - sort of. Future can make that white residue from superglue disappear btw. For PE I mostly use superglue (gel type does tend to give you a fraction more time to work) and white glue (PVA). For about a year I've been using Mig Ultra Glue and it's a PVA and I love that. https://www.migjimenez.com/en/accessories/1935-ultra-glue-for-etch-clear-parts-more-.html . Mig also have a "slow drying super glue" but I've never noticed it being any slower than any other kind of superglue. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
langy Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Normally I'll use either superglue gel or white PVA glue.. from time to time I'll use 'future' but that's mainly for sticking multiple layer Instrument panels together. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec7 Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 Hi elger Ordered a bottle of Ammo Mig Ultra, many thanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AltcarBoB Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 You can get slow setting superglue which take minutes to set. I have never used it so cant reccomend it https://shop-4-glue.com/slip-fit-extra-slow-set-cyanoacrylate-cyano-glue-5-min-set-adhesive-48-c.asp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bell209 Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 I tend to use different viscosities of super glue. Future works well for instrument panels, etc as previously mentioned. I'm going to try soldering for the first time on the Neptune Bomb Bay and (possibly) the gear wells, too. My skills in that area aren't bad but I've never tried them on PE before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_m Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 I use super glue (or solder if strength is needed)- and use both methods the same- hold the parts in the right position before applying the glue/solder, then then is no need for repositioning time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 My approach (from ship modelling) is the opposite way around. I put hold the next piece exactly where I want it with tweezers with my left hand then apply medium CA to the joint using an Acupuncture needle and a pool of ordinary green Zap in an empty pill package using my more dextrous right hand. Everyone has ways that do and don't work for them, but I am a zero patience sort of person and waiting a geological age for white glue or whatever to go off is a non-starter, but applying glue then racing to fit it isn't the answer for me either. Medium CA still wicks into the joint fairly well and excess glue is minimal. Acupuncture needles are perfect for this. It works fine for aeroplanes too 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbthejester Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 I have been struggling with applying CA too, what I found helped was making my own applicators just like the shop bought ones, cut the eye in half on a regular sowing needle leaving two prongs, dip in glue and apply, you can position a part then touch in the glue and allow capillary action to work, when your needle is clogged use lighter to burn off residue 👍👍 cheers Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec7 Posted June 25, 2020 Author Share Posted June 25, 2020 Fantastic response guys, hopefully it will help lots of people. I went for a mig ultra as a first try out and so far i am really impressed with a near invisible strong bond a bit of straightening and some paint and this will be fine Many thanks to all who relied once again.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AltcarBoB Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 Try to straighten the etch not the glue joint. It's very easy to pop the joint and lead to shouting and swearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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