Jump to content

Recommended Posts

This is my very first WIP.

Decided on an OOB (with the exception of a set of 'Yahu' instruments) Airfix DE Havilland DH.82a Tiger Moth.

I have plenty to learn, and a long way to go with my modelling skills but I'm sure ill improve as I go along, Now to this Kit.

As you can see from the photos ive made a start. The cockpit is fairly basic (not as basic as revell 1/72 FW 190 ive just built which had a simple rectangular hole as a cockpit) with two seats two sticks, ill add some masking tape seat belts at a later stage.

I was surprised to find that a certain amount of Surgery was needed on the fuselage half's, if you want the doors open it is necessary to cut and remove the molded in doors and also drill holes for  attaching the alternative parts, this I found annoying as I would have thought it better to have molded open doors and then have alternative doors to fit closed if required, I wonder why Airfix went the route they did, I'm guessing tooling was cheaper? removing a good portion of the rear fuselage is also required at this stage, this is in order to fit the Anti-roll strake's fitted to this model, again why not do it the other way round? Whilst on the subject of cutting the doors out, I found it better to remove the rear doors in two pieces rather than try cut around an angle (see photos)

I am a very ham fisted modeler! and rely a lot on filler, however due to the textured finish of the external surfaces of this model I'm having to take extra care.

Now i have to go build up a Fiat Twin cam Cylinder head so more on the Tiger tomorrow.

Steve

spacer.png

 

spacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a nice little kit, it shouldn't give you any trouble. Just being curious, can I ask what the holes below the doors are for?

 

Martian 👽

Link to post
Share on other sites

If I may reply to that.

The 'open' doors parts each has two locating pins to affix them to the fuselage, thus two holes need opening up for each open door

To the OP; 3 points

1. mind you don't get any paint on the fuselage floor edges, instrument panel edges or the locations for them in the fuselage. The tolerances are so tight on this kit that a single coat of paint on the joint will push the parts out and you'll get a gap on the top of the cockpit coaming when you join the two fuselage halves together

2. I suggest you lightly score, almost through, the joint of big X joining the main struts together. It is difficult to remove this big X when the struts are in place. Having almost cut through the join makes it so much easier

3. When you come to put the tail fin/rudder on top of the tail planes, you'll see a thin gap. Leave that gap, its right and proper.

 

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Black Knight said:

If I may reply to that.

The 'open' doors parts each has two locating pins to affix them to the fuselage, thus two holes need opening up for each open door

To the OP; 3 points

1. mind you don't get any paint on the fuselage floor edges, instrument panel edges or the locations for them in the fuselage. The tolerances are so tight on this kit that a single coat of paint on the joint will push the parts out and you'll get a gap on the top of the cockpit coaming when you join the two fuselage halves together

2. I suggest you lightly score, almost through, the joint of big X joining the main struts together. It is difficult to remove this big X when the struts are in place. Having almost cut through the join makes it so much easier

3. When you come to put the tail fin/rudder on top of the tail planes, you'll see a thin gap. Leave that gap, its right and proper.

 

Thanks for the advice, im dreading removing the temporary strut supports.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I find using a side cutters for things like removing the x from the struts much easier than a knife.

Edited by Marklo
Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Black Knight said:

mind you don't get any paint on the fuselage floor edges, instrument panel edges or the locations for them in the fuselage. The tolerances are so tight on this kit that a single coat of paint on the joint will push the parts out and you'll get a gap on the top of the cockpit coaming when you join the two fuselage halves together

Oh, the undesirable side effects of CAD! You may find the same issues with many kits that are designed that way. The person with the computer may get the tolerances too tight, looking for a precise fit, but then life (i.e.: reality) gets in the way!

 

Good advice!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking forward to this build, I have the same kit.

I got a good impression after some preliminary fondling and dry runs.

 

Good choice!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Also looking forward to this, I have the kit too. Looks a fine little kit.  Good luck with your build

All the best

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve recently finished this kit and overall it went together pretty well. Only problem I found was the seam lines on the underside were a pain to remove as the center of the fuselage has a slight indent making sanding it a bit trickier. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Another suggestion,

4. put the front windscreen on before the top wing. Its easier to do then than after the wing is on

Link to post
Share on other sites

Today's progress has been a one step forwards two steps back sort of day

I had planned to get the two fuselage half internals painted and start on the cockpit area construction, however as soon as I sat down I could see the Elephant in the room, or should I say the Elephant in the cockpit, 'the holes I drilled for locating the open doors!' Airfix spent some time detailing the inner sides, thought clearly went in to where the ejecting pins were going to be located so as not to interfere with the details, however 4 x 1mm holes spoil the whole appearance, opening up a cockpit to see detail then go and see 4 holes into the sides! only one thing for it 'Filler'. If I had to build this again I would not have drilled the holes, I would have removed the locating pins from the doors and located them by eye.

Solution was to hold the doors in position and fill the back of the holes, still need some finishing but will certainly be better than the holes.

spacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

As you might understand ive not been in  doors doing much during this last glorious week of weather here in the North of England. 

I have managed some progress on the cockpit, i have filled those holes i drilled! and constructed the cockpit using a pair of Yahu Instrument panels, im not very good with some of the 'Mico' Etch parts so I didn't construct the compass as described in the Yuha instructions, i simply cut the airfix base down and added the Yahu compass etch on top of the stub of plastic remaining,I envy those that can fabricate such small detail, my fat fingers get in the way! I

I noticed that the Airfix instruction contained an error (99% sure) they show the control stick as having a black shaft and a silver hand grip, I think those colour's need reversing, I did.

I need to spend some more time in and around the cockpit area, I have some masking tape painted up in 3 different colors for the construction of seat belts which will be my next task.

spacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Belts in, and clam shell half's glued together. Next time I would fit the Etch parts directly into the cockpit, I think ive made a big mistake by gluing them to the Airfix instrument panel, by doing so the instrument panel is far to forward in both cockpits.

I have put a light coat of undercoat so as to identify my seams for the next attention.

spacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Need some help with colour's here.

 

The recommended 'Humbrol' colour is 'Crimson Red H20' but it just looks wrong.

Anyone any ideas? should i continue with second coating or use another lighter red which might because of a crimson undercoat look wrong again?

I could always put a coat of undercoat and start again?

For now ill go do some FIAT twin cam Cylinder head work and come back to this after your thoughts.

Steve

spacer.png

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Stuck with the recommended colour H20 still looks a little dark.

Lower wing and rear wing added, the painting of the wings worked out very well, im pleased with the colour and finish.

Next step is to add the undercarriage and all the struts, followed by the upper wing, remembering to fit the front screen before hand, and the doors.

I added the transfers to the lower wing for ease of access.

spacer.pngspacer.png

Edited by Parrish
ammended text
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 01/07/2020 at 08:41, Parrish said:

Need some help with colour's here.

 

The recommended 'Humbrol' colour is 'Crimson Red H20' but it just looks wrong.

Anyone any ideas? should i continue with second coating or use another lighter red which might because of a crimson undercoat look wrong again?

 

The real ACDC is actually Crimson Red and Humbrol 20 is the perfect match

The owners probably use a big tin of Humbrol 20 to paint it - thats only half a joke. When ACDC was based at Newtownards Airport the fuselage was 'Midnight Blue' Humbrol 15, the owner then used a big tin of Humbrol 15 for touch-ups

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very close now, going well!

Link to post
Share on other sites

All manner of clamps required to keep them struts in place!

I am sure that when finished this will sit on the shelf and bits will drop off over time.

She is very fragile.

one under carriage brace the tail fin/prop and transfers to finish, maybe by the weekend.

spacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Coming along very well! I love the instrument panels.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here she is finished, made the mistake of spraying with a Matt finishing varnish so the fuselage has lost its gloss.

One of the outer diagonal struts will not stay put when attached to the underside of the top wing, so it can stay like that! as I tend to detach other pieces each time I try to re-secure it.

I was eyeing up doing the rigging on her but ill leave that to another day.

As i mentioned before i have very carefully put her on the shelf and so far nothing has dropped off.

Thank you all for your encouragement and advice, it helps a lot to get praise, on wards to the next project another Stormovich.

spacer.png

spacer.pngspacer.png

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

Fantastic work and a super first WIP! Looking forward to seeing the next one.

 

Kind regards,

 

Mark

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very good start!

Well done completing the model and posting it.

For more civil builds!

Cheers

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...