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Hi, Matt.

 

There are a number of Youtube videos on how to use PE material properly. Definitely worth a watch.

 

I would recommend buying some modelling-glue specifically designed for attaching PE pieces. Hannants stock a version called "Gator Grip" if my memory serves me correctly, that's very good. They do a "fine" version and a thicker one (I'd start off with the fine one). Some people use super-glue, but I've found it way too messy to be useful.

 

You can buy a small PE "hold-and-fold" device for any piece which needs folding, but I've always thought they are outrageously expensive for what they are. Some folks use a pair of pliers to create folds and seem happy with the results. 

 

A decent pair of modelling-tweezers is a great thing for applying the PE items. 

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Chris. 

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I use a drop of Future floor polish to attach p.e, parts.  If you don't need strength in the join then that works fine. White (pva) glue is also good. Both of these are very forgiving if you need to adjust the position.

 

For holding these teeny bits try a blob of blu-tac on the end of a cocktail stick. Less likelihood of the part flying across the room never to be seen again.

Mark

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Thanks Mark.

 

One of the first bits of PE I am going to attempt is a 1/48 stepladder. Here's the PE:

 

pe1.jpg

 

And the instructions:

 

pe2.jpg

 

My first question is why are are two pieces of PE, but only one shown in the instructions? Is it a spare or are they meant to be glued together before bending?

 

I guess I need a very small bending tool to manipulate this one correctly...?

 

TIA...!

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From their website it looks like you get two. Their pictures may help.

http://www.brengun.cz/e-shop/1-72-accessories-21/step-ladders-for-hunter-and-harrier-(2pcs)-642#!prettyPhoto

 

As for bending them into shape try flat nosed pliers in one hand and tweezers in the other - or get a bending tool, although these are not cheap. This is one from Trumpeter:

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TU09933?result-token=wCANC

 

I like my bending tool as it reduces the risk of these parts flying across the room never to be seen again.

Mark

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Something possibly worth mentioning... some modellers use soldering (instead of glue) to keep the parts in the correct shapes. I've never done this myself, but would take an educated guess that it make the parts stronger. Obviously, you would need a soldering-iron with a very small tip for this kind of work. 

 

Cheers.

 

Chris.  

Edited by spruecutter96
Amending information.
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46 minutes ago, MarkH206 said:

From their website it looks like you get two.

Could be useful - one to practice with and a second chance if it goes wrong!

 

It looks very fiddly, so I will do some research on YouTube and try to find a good tutorial. Hopefully that will point me in the right direction...

 

40 minutes ago, spruecutter96 said:

Something possibly worth mentioning... some modellers use soldering (instead of glue) to keep the parts in the correct shapes. I've never done this myself, but would take an educated guess that it make the parts stronger. Obviously, you would need a soldering-iron with a very small tip for this kind of work. 

Thank Chris. That might be a worthwhile investment as it looks very fragile at the moment!

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I'd try the long folds over a sharp edge if you don't want to invest in a bending tool. A metal ruler clamped to a very flat and strong surface as hold-down and the blade of a breakaway knife or utility knife as bending lever. I don't see much chance for a good fold on such a long piece without an even long edge.

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On 23/06/2020 at 19:33, Schwarz-Brot said:

I don't see much chance for a good fold on such a long piece without an even long edge.

That is my concern too - thanks for your suggestion. I'm wondering if I've inadvertantly picked something quite difficult for my first attempt at PE!

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Firstly I'd suggest a sharp blade for cutting the part from the fret - New scalpel blade works well. Cut on a hard surface like an old glass panel, as cutting on a traditional cutting mat means there is "give" under the part which may bend and deform. Bending is easier with a folding tool  but is perfectly feasible with a firm straight edge to hold the part on a hard surface (like glass again.) I often use a Stanley knife blade to then fold the part - clamp the etch item firmly near the bend line then carefully slide the Stanley blade under the protruding part and fold it up to the correct angle . Take things slowly and you'll be surprised at what you manage. Look forward to seeing the results...

Q

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I like the photo etch folders made by RB productions, they are actually made from photoetch themselves. These are my go to folding tools even though I have a Small Shop bender and they are much cheaper.

 

If acquiring one be sure to read and understand the instructions afore assembling.

 

RB Productions photo etch folding tools.

 

For positioning small parts I use a dab od beeswax on the end of a sharpened match stick or cocktail stick. PVA (I like Unibond) or UV for gluing, two part epoxy when strength is needed. Personally I cannot abide cyanoacrylate, I find it messy, hard to apply, unpredictable "grab" time, hard to remove when set, poor shelf life, goes everywhere except where it is needed and unfit for purpose containers that get superglued closed.

 

Liquitape is handy for positioning and tacking in place especially if you must use cyanoacrylate.

Edited by dromia
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I have found glass or ceramic tile to be very hard on blades and quickly dulls them.

 

I prefer something with a bit of give but still stiff enough not to drag the nub on the photo etch, CDs DVDS have a bit more give but personally I prefer a bit of UHMW poly ethylene as found in those plastic chopping boards for preparing food. I got an old one from a charity shop for a few shillings cut it ino 4" squares and have a lifetimes supply of cutting surfaces now.

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